ChrisLBren Posted May 9, 2020 Share #1 Posted May 9, 2020 Hi Group, Quick question - wondering if there is an optimum speed when using your Proxxon MF70. The pear wood I am using has a tendency to chip - any tips as to running at higher or slower speeds to avoid it ? Thanks thibaultron and mtaylor 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted May 9, 2020 Share #2 Posted May 9, 2020 Chris, No Proxxon here but tend to run the mill at the fastest speed for wood with a very slow feed and sharp bit. Canute, Mark P, Bob Cleek and 1 other 4 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wefalck Posted May 20, 2020 Share #3 Posted May 20, 2020 Chipping and ripping often is the result of dull cutting edges, rather than the wrong speed or feed rate. Matrim, Canute, Mark P and 2 others 5 Quote wefalck panta rhei - Everything is in flux Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbyr Posted May 20, 2020 Share #4 Posted May 20, 2020 Chris 8000-10,0000 rpm would be about the best. Use carbide 3 flute endmills don't bother with the HSS endmills. Carbide will last 10 times as long and only cost a few bucks more. I get mine from GW Schultz, they are the best I know of. You can get smaller ones from MSC down to .005 regards Jim druxey, Canute, allanyed and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Blarney Posted May 31, 2020 Share #5 Posted May 31, 2020 On 5/20/2020 at 11:45 AM, jimbyr said: Chris 8000-10,0000 rpm would be about the best. Use carbide 3 flute endmills don't bother with the HSS endmills. Carbide will last 10 times as long and only cost a few bucks more. I get mine from GW Schultz, they are the best I know of. You can get smaller ones from MSC down to .005 regards Jim I think you'll find that while HSS won't last as long, but it will be sharper than carbide. Down-spiral bits can be useful too. Another tip might be to do what I've done on some guitar soundboards - Put a thin 'wash' coat of shellac on the surface - it can be wiped with ethanol (denatured or drinkable) and sanded off. As always - try it on scrap material first. stuglo, Canute, mtaylor and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No Idea Posted July 18, 2020 Share #6 Posted July 18, 2020 I've been milling some pear wood on the same machine and I too have had chipping issues. I solved this by running the machine flat out at 20,000 rpm and using a twin flute cutter to get rid of the chipping quickly. Sorry my reply is late but I've only been doing this work this week bruce d, Canute and mtaylor 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteB Posted August 28, 2020 Share #7 Posted August 28, 2020 Know this is an old thread but for those that follow - I've noticed marslv and others use a backing/sacrificial piece of wood behind the cut which seems to help stop tear out. Cheers Pete mtaylor, bruce d, Canute and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No Idea Posted August 28, 2020 Share #8 Posted August 28, 2020 3 hours ago, PeteB said: Know this is an old thread but for those that follow - I've noticed marslv and others use a backing/sacrificial piece of wood behind the cut which seems to help stop tear out. Cheers Pete Hi Pete you are right - but the main reason that I use sacrificial backing though is to stop the cutter making contact with the machine slide bed Canute, PeteB, bruce d and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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