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  • 2 weeks later...

Chris

 

8000-10,0000 rpm would be about the best.  Use carbide 3 flute endmills don't bother with the HSS endmills.  Carbide will last 10 times as long and only cost a few bucks more. I get mine from GW Schultz, they are the best I know of.  You can get smaller ones from MSC down to .005

 

regards

Jim

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 5/20/2020 at 11:45 AM, jimbyr said:

Chris

 

8000-10,0000 rpm would be about the best.  Use carbide 3 flute endmills don't bother with the HSS endmills.  Carbide will last 10 times as long and only cost a few bucks more. I get mine from GW Schultz, they are the best I know of.  You can get smaller ones from MSC down to .005

 

regards

Jim

I think you'll find that while HSS won't last as long, but it will be sharper than carbide.  Down-spiral bits can be useful too.

 

Another tip might be to do what I've done on some guitar soundboards - Put a thin 'wash' coat of shellac on the surface - it can be wiped with ethanol (denatured or drinkable) and sanded off.  As always - try it on scrap material first.

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  • 1 month later...

I've been milling some pear wood on the same machine and I too have had chipping issues.  I solved this by running the machine flat out at 20,000 rpm and using a twin flute cutter to get rid of the chipping quickly.  Sorry my reply is late but I've only been doing this work this week

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  • 1 month later...
3 hours ago, PeteB said:

Know this is an old thread but for those that follow - I've noticed marslv and others use a backing/sacrificial piece of wood behind the cut which seems to help stop tear out. Cheers Pete

Hi Pete you are right - but the main reason that I use sacrificial backing though is to stop the cutter making contact with the machine slide bed

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