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Ty Emmet and welcome back, just double checked the plans and the top of the galley stove should be on the same level as the top of the bell so will drill down through the deck as well as the hatch and adjust to height. before i move on much further though i am going to have to tackle the chainplates which i am still figuring out but no surprise will look nothing like occres instructions😉

 

Keith

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thanks for the views and comments everyone, when i scratchbuilt new chainplates for my billings victory i was left with a load of billings brass chainplates which while incorrect for victory will be ideal for terror😁. Luckily the deadeyes are a loose fit in the strops so easy to turn to correct alignment!

 

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take care all

 

Keith

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Thanks for views and comments everyone, got the chainplates painted and fitted which is a way to use all those pins i removed after planking (not sure whether to leave pins in the brass or paint them black)? have got the smaller deadeyes for the backstays finished, and when paint dried will fit them as well. used a piece of old rigging thread tied to mast to map out angle of plates as they follow the angle of the shroud in practice wherever possible.

 

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the tops of the chainplates arn't glued in place only the pins are anchoring them to the hull.

 

Take care all

 

Keith

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On 8/25/2020 at 9:12 PM, clearway said:

take care Emmet and ty. Tackled the deadeye strops today (well about 36 of them)! I formed akeyhole shape using 22 gauge tinned copper wire then flattened the ends and drilled through with a 0,6mm drill, then in batches of 10 ran 0,45mm brass wire through and soldered.

 

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take care all

 

Keith

Stunning hardware!! 😱😱

this is the sign of an experienced modeller, well done!

regards Clearway,

 

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Of course I did my strops a bit differently; forming wire into little hooks that engaged with holes in the chainplates, but I found the repetitive work of doing 72 of them rather cathartic. We'll see if I still feel that way when it's time to tie the ratlines. 

 

 

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21 hours ago, clearway said:

That's another chore of dread as well keith! Plus we need to sort out the deadeyes on the tops as well 😱, but they are a different set up and i am working on a cheat🤔.

 

Keith

Do you mean the chains for the futtock shrouds, or the deadeyes themselves? I was thinking of putting the futtocks through small holes in the mast and then hiding the holes behind a chain necklace in such a way as to make it look as though they are secured TO the chain- but the chain would not be under tension, if you see what I mean.   Also there's the matter of the winch drums in the fore and mainmast tops. The drawings show them, but give little detail as to where exactly they were installed. I'm assuming it's on the square part of the masthead, probably about the height of a man's waist or slightly higher, above the level of the top.

 

 

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Hi Keith- the deadeyes on the tops are fitted into a plate which has a hole in the part below the top itself into which a hook secures it to either the mast or lower shrouds depending on era. As regards the winches they would have to go above the battens so will be near the top of the doubling- however they do look removable and maybe were just used to winch up the topmast  and topgallant masts + spars, because most of the running rigging is controlled from the deck? the quandry that is Teror continues!

 

Keith

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This is what I meant- the part below the top that would attach to either the lower shrouds or the mast- according to Lees for this era it would be a chain around the mast. I was thinking for the purpose of being able to keep tension on these it would be handy to lead them through the chain and into hidden holes rather than tying them to the chain. It would be invisible and easier. 

 

Removable winches eh? Possibly, but they did trouble themselves to draw them on the plans, when they did not draw any other details of the rigging or even the other masts. It's mysterious why they thought the winches were important enough to draw if they were just removable tools. On the other hand you're right, it's difficult to imagine what the topmen would need to grind on a winch for during sailing. Perhaps they were there to raise those massive canvas awnings when at winter quarters, or something like that.  Maybe Matt Betts will shed some light in his book! 

 

What a weird old ship.

 

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weird olde wonderful ship is the word alright! i will be fastening to the chain collars around the mast (will make a copper ring to fasten chain to it) the bit i am going to simplify is the actual futtock chainplates for want of a better description, the chain/ rope futtock shrouds were anchored to the chainplates with a hook then to the mast collars (see tops on my victory build below)

 

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don't fancy doing this on terror as everything including deadeyes are smaller,

 

Keith

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thanks for likes and comments everyone, work continues on the deck fittings with the massey pumps finished (though still not glued in yet till i get the eyebolts in place for the rigging around the base of the masts). got some of the "iron work" around foremast painted, and not happy with the occre fittings, made a new fluepipe for the heating stove and the funnel for the steam engine out of aluminium pipe out of my stash (used self adhesive copper strip cut into thin strip for joins on funnel).The original occre castings are shown alongside the replacements.

 

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also need to think about cleats and fastenings for the topmast tyes as well before gluing everything onto deck and blocking access.

 

take care all

 

Keith

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work continues on terror.feels weird just having all day to myself at weekends only again after 5 months furlough! got the eyebolts and rings for nipping anchor chain in place and painted loco engine funnel and heating flue along with a coat of matt varnish ( make sure to clean aluminium and paint as soon as possible because of oxidization). I might make some people curse here, but another faux pas by occre is giving her a metal tiller, fashioned tiller out of some walnut stock and made a band for the end using some scrap etch and made eyes out of anealled iron wire. starting to look really busy on the decks now😁.

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take care all

 

Keith

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Not to make you second-guess yourself, but the tillers on Erebus and Terror were circular cross-section bronze, and the rudder-head had a square cover over it, which is why I didn't bother to detail it. Having said that, your wooden tiller is better-looking than the piece of wire provided by Occre and closer to the actual shape the bronze ones were. Occre for some reason depicts the tiller with a little crook bent into it, but in real life it was straight, like yours. All things considered, your new tiller looks the part more than Occre's, despite being made of wood. 

 

Here is a screen-shot from one of Parks Canada's videos, showing the tiller lying beside the aft skylight opening. It was apparently twelve feet long and massively heavy. At first I couldn't really understand why they would mount a wheel right in front of the tiller, with the inconveniently exposed pulleys and ropes waiting to trip anyone headed aft to the loo,  until I realized how massive the whole thing was. The wheel is needed for mechanical advantage!

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I really like your crafted versions of the chimneys. They look much more realistic. 

 

One more suggestion, you'll want two more pin racks on the bulwark, one on either side of the bowsprit with four pins each. It looks in the plans like they are located immediately inboard of those two small square openings in the bulwark. Sorry about the image quality.

 

 

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Thanks Keith, luckily i haven't glued the tiller in place yet so still option to remodel  (tis a bit strange because tillers were normally wood... the intrigue of the arctic ships continues)! The set up with the wheel and tiller lasted until the steering quadrant was invented most likely as you say for mechanical advantage. slightly later ships like Cutty Sark had a worm screw arrangement right atop the rudder head. I was looking at them pin racks on Erebus foredeck which makes sense for the rigging from the jib boom (can we assume terror was the same)? Also thinking did they still fit kevels or had they replaced these with cleats like on HMS Trimcolee🤔 as Terror lost her bulwlarks when she collided with Erebus in Antartica, you can go bonkers trying to work this out and mr Betts book isn't due out til spring next year.

 

Keith

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I know- I've "pre ordered" the book. I'm worried that when it comes out, I will discover all the mistakes I've made and it will drive me insane. I like kevels better, but what do I know.

 

 

I'm pretty sure however that the pin racks on the bow are pretty safe to add. There needs to be something there to tie up all the ropes with funny names (how I've begun thinking of running rigging) that come from the bowsprit/ jibboom.

 

 

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hello Keith, I square the mast heads for the trees first as already described earlier in the log, and then using course sandpaper wrapped around an old piece of 2" x 1" wood i start from what will be the narrowest part and twist and sand working the taper further down the mast till roughly how i want it, then use fine paper to finish off. For the mast caps/ hounds i score a line around the top of the dowel to the thickness of the cap, do the same where i want the hounds, then carve out the wood between roughly to shape before using a needle file to round off to thickness- then i work the taper in from hounds downwards if that makes sense.

 

Now have all the sections in place, but still need to taper topmasts and topgallant masts on fore and main along with new mast caps on topmast mastheads, and taper the jib boom.

 

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Keith

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thanks for looking in as always everyone, started to add the tapers to the top/ t'gallant masts and tapered the jib boom. Also found some better looking elm tree pumps which will need painted black.

 

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Only the cheeks/bibs on lower masts are glued in place at the moment with the masts just friction fitted together so the might look a bit "wonky"!

take care and have fun everyone.

 

Keith

 

 

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