Jump to content

Wütender Hund by Chuck Seiler - Shipyard - 1/72 - Hanseatic Cog 1390 - CARD


Recommended Posts

Chuck, good luck with that warping – it's definitely weird. Hopefully, it straightens out once it's fastened into place.

 

By the way, I'm working on the rigging now on my Cog 'o' Card. Was just wondering, did Shipyard make some laser-cut wooden blocks for your kit? Or did they stick with their laser-cut card blocks?

Link to post
Share on other sites

It's great that they make the blocks and deadeyes in wood. The card blocks are actually very nice, but I just had to make sure to shoot them with thin CA to harden them up – the innards are otherwise too squishy and close up the holes, so I can't push the rigging line through them.

 

I'm surprised you mention using Syren blocks, since they're an 18th century style blocks and the cog is 14th century. Do you think they're more fitting than the kit stuff? I'm not sure what 14th century blocks are supposed to look like, but these kit block certainly have an "old-style" look to them.

Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, catopower said:

I'm surprised you mention using Syren blocks, since they're an 18th century style blocks and the cog is 14th century. Do you think they're more fitting than the kit stuff? I'm not sure what 14th century blocks are supposed to look like, but these kit block certainly have an "old-style" look to them.

Hmmm.  Hadn't thought of that.  I was thinking the kit supplied blocks didn't look quite right.  Perhaps it is because I am so used to seeing 18th century blocks.  I guess I need to look at some of Louie da Fly's olde tyme cog paintings and re-evaluate.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Excellent, thanks.  If I am not mistaken, the Almere wreck is early 15th century; slightly later than my cog, but in the same ballpark.

 

The stropping appears to start off exterior to the block on the bottom side, then transitions to internal about 2/3 of the way up, then out though the top.  Am I seeing that correctly?

Link to post
Share on other sites

    The decorative moulding on the stern castle is complete.

 

837551955_bricabrac.thumb.JPG.f4ed91650cefd576920edf4c38940065.JPG

    You can see by the included ruler how thin this stuff is.  Perhaps 1mm...and cross grain along half of it.  I chose to paint the parts on the part tree, before removal.  This turned out to be a good choice.  It strengthened the part and prevents smudging of the red color onto the rest of the castle.

 

undercarriage.JPG.20b2b44602628ac6d81c119ca769090f.JPG

    The next step is to build the under carriage of the stern castle.  We'll see how that goes.

Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, Chuck Seiler said:

I chose to paint the parts on the part tree, before removal.  This turned out to be a good choice.

 

I agree! I did the same for mine. I can't imagine anyone with a steady enough hand to paint that after it's already on the model.

Link to post
Share on other sites

    DANG!!!!!!!!!  I am 2/3 of the way thru the under-carriage for the stern castle and wanted to test fit to see if all was lining up and to see if I could get it to lay flat.  I was able to get it to lay flat and all 4 tabs fit into the appropriate slot.  YAAAHOOOO.  However, looking from the stern it appears uneven.   DANG!!!!  Something must be wrong with the castle.  There is about a 1/8" difference between the top of the gun'l from port and starboard.  DANG!!!

 

oops1.thumb.JPG.533d26b0d59d27cb810422b280221ea7.JPG

    I measured all 4 stations, bottom to top of castle, on both side.  Both sides matched up

 

oops23.thumb.jpg.4c95d93f84fc69c2d35ed15ffc31f5b4.jpg

    I ran a plumb along the center of the deck, from the bow-sprit-thingy in the bow to the aftmost part of the castle.  The castle is centered.  I then ran a vertical plum using the bow sprit and sternpost as guides.  The castle is centered.  My conclusion is that despite reasonably closely hitting all the marks in the planking proces, I missed the mark by 1/8 inch.  Short of pulling all the planking apart, I need to figure a way to resolve the issue.  :default_wallbash:

 

    Any thoughts?

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think if you were to really work at fixing that alignment problem, you'd probably throw off the alignment elsewhere (and remember I had worse issues with my build, trying to get the stern castle structure seated). Considering that the issue is likely only noticeable when viewed from dead astern, I'd vote to just leave it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

    I have had time to think about it...even had dreams (the mind trying to solve the problem).  I am sure nobody here has EVER had that happen.  😁  Along with these thoughts and your inputs I came up with a few options.  I wanted to complete the undercarriage and re-test fit to see exactly where I stood before proceeding.  Test fit complete.  Pics and discussion to follow.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

    With the full under-carriage in place it does not look quite as bad.  The side is still a problem but the stern (which is pretty much exposed) is closer than I thought.  I can work with it.

oops4a.jpg.db28a61ff5640bcd19967f42dd14b06c.jpg

 

    I was contemplating minor surgery.  The top 4 strakes are not tied into the sternpost so it would not be a complete teardown.  There are some underplank supports that would have to be dealt with, but that will be, for the most part, unseen so any damage will not be a big deal.

 

    Option 1 would be to use isopropyl alcohol to unglue and peel back the upper strake to the point indicated.  Strake #2 would be unglued as well, except the rear-most plank would be removed and replaced with one that gets gradually wider towards the end.  Strake 1 would then be glued back in place.  One downside would be a new twist to strake 1.  This may end up being unacceptable.  Option 2 would be the same except to replace strake 1 with a wider version, connecting it so there is no twist.  This has the benefit of requiring less of a flair at the end.

oops5.thumb.JPG.e832d3031387c47933d412910d6b2d05.JPG

 

    Both of these will result in new, unstained, planking being added.  It will probably result in the loss of uniformity of color when stained.

 

    Option 3 is to manipulate the stern castle planking so as to cover the gap, but be uniform on both sides.  Bend to fit/paint to match.

 

oops6.thumb.JPG.3cf0c94bfae0afd4cf993832371175a9.JPG

    Regardless of the option, I will need to figure some way to fix or hide the gap in the stern.

Edited by Chuck Seiler
Link to post
Share on other sites

    That was just a quick and dirty to show where I am.  I wanted to get in and out so all the comments and such can come pouring in.  <crikt crikt>  The process was easier than anticipated but would have been easier without the castle in place.

 

    At this point, I am thinking of 'Wipe on Poly'ing the hull.  Is there any issue with applying poly over oil based stain?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...