Jump to content

Metal work


Recommended Posts

If you could show what the windscreen looks like and and what cross-section the frame should have, one could give some more specific input.

 

I gather you will have two challenges here: a) to shape the frame, and b) to get the shiny chrome finish it presumably had.

 

I assume that it would have been framed with some sort of U-shaped profiles. Depending on the scale of the model, you may be able to buy something suitable in brass or styrene, otherwise you would have to fabricate it yourself. This profile would need to be coerced around the windscreen, or perhaps some sheet metal former to avoid scratching the windscreen. It would need to made in section to allow insertion of the screen material. Brass you could then take to a company that does chrome-plating, or you could spray-paint it using some high-quality metallic paint, such as Alclad, as you would do for styrene.

 

A completely different route would be to build the frame around the existing windscreen with narrow strips of styrene. After masking off, this can be painted again with Alclad paints or something similar.

 

 

 

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
Link to comment
Share on other sites

No question, this is a challenging part... almost as bad as stainless steel cutwaters!

 

But it is possible, and is easier in larger scales. The pictures here are for a 1:8 scale model, and all is done by hand (by a friend, who has alien powers). The plastic windscreen is sandwiched between brass frame parts, which are secured with very small watch screws. Note that the plastic is curved in a single direction, not compound curved... the cross section is an "extrusion" in the direction of the center frame. The intersection of this extrusion with the deck is tricky!

Work with brass... it can be polished and plated... silver and "chrome" paints will never look good. You can do a convincing job with brush-nickel plating. This takes nothing more than clean polished parts, a special solution, and a metal acid brush connected to a 3V source. You may get even nicer results by going to a jeweler for a pro polish job and then rhodium plating... rhodium looks just like chrome, and jewelers regularly replate rhodium rings and such, as the rhodium is a bit soft and wears off over time. 
The shiny parts shown here were 3d printed in brass (printed waxes, used in lost wax investment casting), and then professionally polished and rhodium plated. 

I have also used the 3d brass printing process to make older style windscreen frames, see examples below.
 

10-26-cob.jpg

10-27-cob.jpg

20180228_182719a.jpg

20180228_183041a.jpg

AA75A7B1-EA76-47B9-8B80-A062AEC1E6C5.jpg

FFBBAFA6-4F9A-4B63-ABEC-5DEB011E98D0.jpg

Pat M.

Matthews Model Marine

Model FUNCTION as well as FORM.

Get your boats wet!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As I always say: nothing looks more like metal ... than metal  ;)

 

However, not everyone has access to certain tools and techniques.

 

Tampon galvanising kits for copper, silver and rhodium are avaialble from jewellers supply houses. They also supply the materials for polishing and buffing, which is not really difficult.

 

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have done nickel plating at home, relatively inexpensive and easy. I wouldn't recommend rhodium plating for an amateur, even though you can buy the supplies. A 500ml bottle with 1g Rh costs almost US$500. Here is a video demonstrating an available set-up for a jeweler:

https://www.riogrande.com/article?name=How-To-Rhodium-Plate-Jewelry-Video

 

The cost for the plated Rh is small, as there is so little used.... just as with gold plating. But the investment to do it properly is a disincentive!

 

Pat M.

Matthews Model Marine

Model FUNCTION as well as FORM.

Get your boats wet!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all comments.  Nice work there Pat.  Previously - as can be seen on the attached picture - I have used a brass pipe, bended it to the right shape, and then milled a track for the plastic glass.  A jeweller did the chrome.  However, this was very difficult to do, and I don't think it looks tip top.

P1120211.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...
On 5/21/2020 at 3:23 AM, Patrick Matthews said:

No question, this is a challenging part... almost as bad as stainless steel cutwaters!

 

But it is possible, and is easier in larger scales. The pictures here are for a 1:8 scale model, and all is done by hand (by a friend, who has alien powers). The plastic windscreen is sandwiched between brass frame parts, which are secured with very small watch screws. Note that the plastic is curved in a single direction, not compound curved... the cross section is an "extrusion" in the direction of the center frame. The intersection of this extrusion with the deck is tricky!

Work with brass... it can be polished and plated... silver and "chrome" paints will never look good. You can do a convincing job with brush-nickel plating. This takes nothing more than clean polished parts, a special solution, and a metal acid brush connected to a 3V source. You may get even nicer results by going to a jeweler for a pro polish job and then rhodium plating... rhodium looks just like chrome, and jewelers regularly replate rhodium rings and such, as the rhodium is a bit soft and wears off over time. 
The shiny parts shown here were 3d printed in brass (printed waxes, used in lost wax investment casting), and then professionally polished and rhodium plated. 

I have also used the 3d brass printing process to make older style windscreen frames, see examples below.
 

10-26-cob.jpg

10-27-cob.jpg

20180228_182719a.jpg

20180228_183041a.jpg

AA75A7B1-EA76-47B9-8B80-A062AEC1E6C5.jpg

FFBBAFA6-4F9A-4B63-ABEC-5DEB011E98D0.jpg

Hi Patrick.  I keep looking at your pictures.  How did you manage to bend the lower inner frame so nicely?  By using heat?  Or was it cut in that shape?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ditto - that is some nice metal work Patrick

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Peder said:

Hi Patrick.  I keep looking at your pictures.  How did you manage to bend the lower inner frame so nicely?  By using heat?  Or was it cut in that shape?

See above- done not by me, but someone with alien powers over the metal.

Pat M.

Matthews Model Marine

Model FUNCTION as well as FORM.

Get your boats wet!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah, sorry Patrick I thought you were referring to the jeweler for the coating job.

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...