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Coca by Rodolfo Bigoni - FINISHED - Amati - Scale 1:60 - XV century Spanish cargo vessel


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Greetings everybody!
In this post I want to list some problematic aspects of the instructions, regarding next steps of the construction.

THE MAST CROSSTREE: pictures give two contrasting views: in the first one it's almost flat, in the second one and in the drawing the trestletrees are at a different level from the transoms:

b.thumb.JPG.91f31c97c2bcaa2cfdc5c2636bb2da59.JPG   a.thumb.JPG.34b83ba72c85c643d93e9f11e21bc204.JPG   e.thumb.jpg.0fb907212dde55c4d15db691cfebdeea.jpg 

This affects the positioning of the blocks, the stay and the rope ladder.

 

THE PLACEMENT OF THE BLOCKS: from the drawing it seems that the current cable does not run along the sheave, as if the block were placed upside down:

c.thumb.JPG.e7a6dc1288ddbe10b9d989b3bed2a9e7.JPG

 

THE HALYARD: Based on the drawing, it would not seem possible to raise the yard to the top, as the block is too close to the rack:

d.thumb.JPG.edbef951ae5e35c1aa557380952d5d3d.JPG As I plan to put the yard at the bottom, I will have to put the block much higher.

 

THE ROPE LADDER: it's not clear how it ends up: it seems nailed to the base of the mast top (point F), in a way that seems impossible to go inside:

g.jpg.f7a4111b49dfd36107a17f21801b26a8.jpg

 

Anyway, all these problems can be solved with a bit of work and patience....
Have a nice evening everyone!

 

Rodolfo

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As you're probably aware, this model is based on the so-called "Mataro ship" in the National Maritime Museum Prins Hendrik, Rotterdam. One of our members visited not long ago and took some photos of the model - see 

As you can see, the cross-trees and trestle-trees on this model are in the same plane, so it's probably right to base yours on this.

 

I agree about the blocks being "upside down" and I believe this is simply a mistake in the kit. Go with your own knowledge on this one - the ropes should come out at the top of the sheaves.

 

I'm not sure about the halyard, but it's possible the yard was never meant to be hauled all the way up. These pics are pretty typical of how ships of the time carried the mainyard - as you can see, it's not hauled all the way up.

 

image.png.24a2e2f77058c6272eb71b9c8df017e9.pngimage.png.e12d628726cbbe3cebbccff4fe1ce900.png        

 

 

Note also the top is made differently on the Mataro model than it is in your kit, and there is possibly enough space to get through the bottom from a rope ladder. If you haven't already made the top, perhaps you might consider making one that is closer to the original design.

 

The rigging of the Mataro model has been messed with over the centuries and perhaps shouldn't be relied upon too much regarding the placement of the rope ladder. I think you should use your own judgment how best to do it.

 

Steven

Edited by Louie da fly
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Thanks Steven for your very helpful remarks and documents.

I will undoubtedly take them into account for the prosecution: surely the mast crosstree will be planar.

 

About the yard, although it was never intended to be hauled all the way to the top, with the block so low: 

d.thumb.JPG.83220d12545a52ef31eb07b2af1adfd9.JPG   I suppose it could reach maybe halfway up the mast. It is necessary a greater distance between block and rack.

 

I have enough in mind how to proceed in order to have less obstacles and obstructions as possible: first the stay, then the installation of the yard with blocks and parrel, then the crosstree followed by the rope ladder, the two blocks on the mast for the yard and finally the side shrouds (Only the fixing at the bulwarks, because they are already tied at the top).

It will really be a Work in Progress, evaluating step by step how to proceed.

The problem about quality of the blocks can be solved by DIY; at least two different kinds. In the Nao of Mataro there are even more...

k.thumb.jpg.28c16c4c2c96745058a08aa0be9f3179.jpgk2.thumb.jpg.85231d23f4a9fa5a6ca48d44c35f10e5.jpgk5.thumb.jpg.c81c462d326fe58fedb3a7e792e76951.jpgk4.thumb.jpg.c713136ad8362a26cbdf5bfaab306438.jpgk3.thumb.jpg.0fb22670b25962bc981cea6f8d09c778.jpgk6.thumb.jpg.3167f05c2743a1e421be2b0fed502ec0.jpg

 

In the meantime I've tied the first blocks to the yardarm. How useful it would be to have small hands ...k1.thumb.jpg.aee1bf4035205e201fa7d67485bb8577.jpg

 

I would like to conclude by wishing everyone a Happy New Year, even if the signs are not very good, unfortunately.

 

Rodolfo

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That sequence sounds good - but only trying it out will tell you if it's right. I see you have the crosstrees in the list but haven't mentioned he trestletrees. Are you doing them at the same time as the crosstrees?

 

I do like your blocks. Next time I make blocks I think I'll use this method (I've bookmarked this page for later reference). Do the sheaves turn or are they fixed in place?

 

Happy New Year,

 

Steven

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Thank Roger, for the encouragement.

 

Hi Steven,
I have only described the general order, but still on a theoretical level. I am now building the yardarm with the blocks, followed by the parrel (very different from that of AMATI), the blocks at the mast and the rope ladder. As soon as I have all the material ready, I will try to see the relative encumbrance in situ, before gluing. I mean, I'm still pretty much at high sea...

About the sheaves they are glued. I'll glue also the rope inside the sheaves at the end of the work, because I prefer to avoid loosening during the course of time. But if you prefer, I think it should be possible make them swiveling by drilling a hole in the wooden disc and inserting a pin or wire of a suitable diameter. Maybe also need to make the inside walls of the block very smooth, with fine sandpaper, if you want to make the rigging often movable.                          See you soon!

          Rodolfo                  

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Interesting build this Coca 🙂

The shape of the hull on these old ships are so different from later ones and really tickles the imagination. I like it!

 

As with rigging or anything else about fitting out a model, planning ahead is key to success. The saying is "measure twice, cut once" but I would refrain it to "think twice, and think again" 😉 

 

You are doing well!

 

Happy modelling!

Håkan

__________________________________________

 

Current build: Atlantica by Wintergreen

Previous builds

Kågen by Wintergreen

Regina by Wintergreen

Sea of Galilee boat, first century, sort of...

Billing Boats Wasa

Gallery:

Kågen (Cog, kaeg) by Wintergreen - 1:30Billing Boats Regina - 1:30Billing Boats Dana

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Thanks, Rodolfo. It sounds like you've got it all worked out well in advance. Once you have everything made, you can see how well it all works together.

 

My own blocks so far have simply been carved from a single piece of wood, with the "sheave" made by drilling two holes and carving out a groove between them.  (Note the giant matchstick :P).

 

image.png.e0a50e80d0191fbbb434e03a36819d5d.png

 

I like your idea better, even if the sheaves don't pivot.

 

Steven

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Hi Håkan,
thank you for your positive comment.
The round, belly shape of the hull made 100_1104.thumb.JPG.a788e7078392d6776a08608772d2d164.JPG

it tricky for me to lay the planking. 
In the end I got along fine by bending the

planks (already tapered) in both directions. 

At the bow, the planking must rise more

than at the stern.

If the bending is more than necessary,

the strip remains easily in  its

position, in contact with the keel.

The 2X4 mm strips of basswood

supplied by "AMATI" bend well,

as shown by the photo of the leftovers

after the first planking:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi Steven,

it seems to me that your solution is equally valid, because the pulley is always not visible ...

By the way, over time I have collected in a sheet of Paint some various shapes of the blocks used in the ancient times. Perhaps it can be useful:

495025073_rassegnadibozzellifinale.thumb.jpg.0bfa1ffe399120170f67398852117a1f.jpg

 

See you soon and good sawdust to all!

 

Rodolfo

 

 

 

 

 

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Welcome back to everyone!


Work has continued with the construction of the yard, in two halves as can be seen from many illustrations of that time.

100_0997.thumb.JPG.a760b6a9cfb16120b61c5662d58e671c.JPG

 

The extremities are grooved for the fixing of the blocks. I've only followed instructions.100_1002.JPG.0875b02ce872205e067529b2dc9b4d3a.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Where the two halves overlap there are bindings.100_1108.thumb.JPG.ccc00f1dafe1389daf81b18687312f31.JPG

At the ends of the two halves, the first blocks, of the one-way type, were tied:  100_1109.thumb.JPG.e7b103bc104fcb8e3bcebc4631f757c7.JPG


At this point there will be the problem of the parrel....
See you soon!

 

Rodolfo

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Dear All,
to complete the yard it is necessary to prepare the parrel. The AMATI supplier solved the parrel problem simply with a row of spheres separated by knots.

712549136_trozzaamati.jpg.3736fca46fbefe5ee6ef7211ec578ffe.jpg1173078395_trozzaamati1.jpg.cf046138a86acef104583b413328455a.jpg

 

This solution is applicable, as demonstrated in this "Reliquary of St. Ursula" by Hans Memling dated pre-1489:

100_0674.thumb.JPG.073d669d317439ab3aa3c99835cd6726.JPG  100_0675.thumb.JPG.0fae80b7b453d346f988f39a788813db.JPG

 

However, it was probably only applicable to smaller ships because they are without a top. The larger ships had more rows of trucks, but the Nao of Mataro has only two rows:

100_0684.thumb.JPG.70ca1f1130f7db6f126491d68a6fcbef.JPG  113282589_Immaginetrozza.png.98ee085d98b146d5159b3b0cfb6c12a9.png

 

So the first step is building ribs and trucks. To make the ribs I glued a dozen pieces of a strip, shaped the block and drilled with a diameter of 1.2 mm;  then I soaked the block in water and separated the individual ribs. 

big4.thumb.jpg.559d00bae5665b81e8e616fdfdbc6b5b.jpg big3.jpg.bf87e4c4f00d93ef906f9872c8af5b65.jpg big2.jpg.7dd7cb6ea7e6a8f6e14bd635ee767d48.jpg

 

Next step the trucks.

See you again soon!

 

Rodolfo

 

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Dear Friends,
to make the trucks I used a walnut rod drilled in the center 1.2 mm, then shaped with a file and sandpaper. Clear trucks are of AMATI:.

ber5.thumb.jpg.9a4681e8d4137f5c9262dd460af83b0b.jpg  ber4.thumb.jpg.6e7b9a2a9fb79ffcc538b43f61ce3394.jpg  ber3.thumb.jpg.8e8f1d969ed42b3c92cb9651d9429d20.jpgber2.thumb.jpg.cfa78a1ee51c4a6d3d62af538f8c08a5.jpg  ber1.thumb.jpg.47ebe2f9a3145c155e65450832129301.jpg 

 

Having everything necessary, we can try to build the parrel; here before painting:

 

t2.thumb.jpg.86044010d8b1c4d407c5f2d04421484f.jpg

 

And now I'm going to tie it to the yard....

 

Have a nice weekend!

 

Rodolfo

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  • 3 weeks later...

Dearest all,
I have been looking for documentation about the fixing of the parrell in the fifteenth century. The most interesting books I've seen, they are:

1) Xavier Pastor - Anatomy Of The Ship- The Ships of-Christopher Columbus - CONWAY MARITIME PRESS

2) Heinrich Winter, Die Kolumbusschiffe (Magdeburg, 1944).

The possibilities are numerous and I have collected them into two sets of drawings:, the first from Winter and the second from Pastor:

winter.thumb.png.0b6eb6d2216d81a85922f1060bfbfe1d.png pastor1.png.6c078925c787b4457cbfb08c2434710b.png 

As a first attempt, I tried the one circled in red:

tr1.thumb.jpg.ef469d3f7578df8d184250441c416a5b.jpgtr2.thumb.jpg.98d52f4da696a23ce539696756539444.jpgtr3.thumb.jpg.4462017e94e146c47f8e8066030c838d.jpgtr4.jpg.448aa0c0adb9bd3de919035ae6369964.jpgtr5.thumb.jpg.26c0c8f54d9f3ef2f7888c6dfc3d9f89.jpg

 

The result is not satisfactory, the parrel does not wrap around the mast well. After that, then I removed the wooden ring and replaced it with a double loop of rope, also adding ribs and trucks:

trc1.thumb.jpg.7520004cff49ad789ba29f0d936c7697.jpg     trc2.jpg.8c566b076ce09b9784b7da623eb7702c.jpg       trc3.thumb.jpg.e8663cce3329f2b5cf4aeec852953f87.jpgtrc4.thumb.jpg.c2ec21d26804437a377d9c04f51ceb1a.jpgtrc6.thumb.jpg.e10c34a7e5ac59ff881e78d7fe8a259e.jpg   trc7.thumb.jpg.59d7537d0a78272f9013d319958e3aaa.jpg

 

In the pictures above, the parrel is only positioned but not yet fixed. The result seems acceptable to me. Now, the first thing to do will be to fix the halyard. 

 

See you again soon!

 

Rodolfo

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This is fascinating stuff, Rodolfo. A real resource for those of us interested in 15th/16th century ships. I've bookmarked it for future reference.

 

Steven

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Rodolfo, such beautiful work, I'm in awe.  How did you stain your second hull planking?  I can tell you used multiple wood types but I can't imagine getting such a color differential using a single stain color.  Is it some sort of magic?

 

Take care and be safe.

kev

Take care and be safe.

 

kev

 

Current Build:  HMS Bounty's Jolly Boat - Artesania Latina

On the shelf:  Oseberg #518 - Billing Boats

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Hi Steven,
I'm glad to have been helpful!

Hi Kev, 
no magic tricks. As you may have seen, the first planking was laid very carefully trying to achieve the maximum of the symmetry. This is important because in this way you have the references for the laying of the wales. 

The wales are painted with the remainder in the bottom of a can of dark walnut impregnating agent. In fact, the bottom of the jar is very rich in pigments and gives a very dark, almost black shade.

The second planking is made of walnut strips, inserted in the space between the wales. They were varnished with the same impregnating agent used for the wales, but taken from a new package, with the pigments well dispersed in the liquid. This gives the lighter walnut color of the strips.

The paler strips are made from lime wood, varnished with oak-colored wood impregnating agent, very clear.

Be careful to avoid traces of glue, which leave stains between the painted surface!

Until next time!

Rodolfo

 

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That makes sense, now that it has been explained.  How were you able to prevent bleeding from one plank to another?  I really like the effect you were able to achieve and if I'm able to do a decent job of planking on my Jolly Boat I would like to stain my hull and get the same effect on my wale.  And possibly other areas where, in hind site, I wished I had stained them earlier.  Thanks for your knowledge and advice, it is greatly appreciated.

 

Take care and be safe.

kev

Take care and be safe.

 

kev

 

Current Build:  HMS Bounty's Jolly Boat - Artesania Latina

On the shelf:  Oseberg #518 - Billing Boats

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Hi Kev,
to avoid bleeding of  the colors I used a very fine brush and great care where there was a separation between the two types of strips and a regular brush where there was wide space.
An alternative that I haven't tried, could be to paint (only) the external visible part of the strips before gluing them.

Have a good work!

Rodolfo

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  • 3 weeks later...

A Welcome back everyone!


I'm now on my fourth attempt at mounting the yard. First, I arranged for the halyard to be long enough so that the yard and block would cross at mid-mast height, considering that I'll be setting it very low and with the sail folded (if I'm able to do so, otherwise it will remain without sail):alfaprimo.thumb.jpg.4385cbdb3dd1649ec43c67df0d7e5a20.jpg

 

Since it is clear from the instructions that the halyard is tied on top of the ligature: alfa1.thumb.jpg.34fe366566ec72757c1d9431b100d13d.jpg

I increased the length of the ligature:         a.thumb.jpg.233ab47660342e902c972dd61bc586ff.jpg

 

Also, the bindings depicted in the instructions look a little coarse to me and I modified them using a thin wire of another color that was in the package.

After that, I put the parrel, for now only leaning against mast and yard. I will glue it only at the end.c.thumb.jpg.a83e223188882e7d17b64811ad968f88.jpgb.thumb.jpg.d2d24e58e64bd95ff67d37aff0684543.jpgd.thumb.jpg.98cf81e7181bb7b28e249b78069084d8.jpg e.thumb.jpg.5adde7c05e0e8d49df0cf34d55e41f04.jpg

 

Moving on to the halyard tackle, here depicted in instructions: h.thumb.jpg.f674df3870221c92d26f9ee8fe789481.jpg

 

 

 I used a thinner wire than the halyard itself and I think I'll color the pinheads that simulate the pivot of the pulleys black:

f.thumb.jpg.81597cc0c47f3d90e2ccd1385261c3b1.jpg  g.thumb.jpg.81c0399e94aa04c30a28e1ab5f08c5a7.jpg

 

 

 

Now I have to tie a few knots on top of the block to secure the rigging...

See you soon and happy sawdust to you all!

 

Rodolfo.

 

 

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Nice work Rodolfo

Regards, Patrick

 

Finished :  Soleil Royal Heller 1/100   Wasa Billing Boats   Bounty Revell 1/110 plastic (semi scratch)   Pelican / Golden Hind  1/45 scratch

Current build :  Mary Rose 1/50 scratch

Gallery Revell Bounty  Pelican/Golden hind 1/45 scratch

To do Prins Willem Corel, Le Tonnant Corel, Yacht d'Oro Corel, Thermopylae Sergal 

 

Shore leave,  non ship models build logs :  

ADGZ M35 funkwagen 1/72    Einhets Pkw. Kfz.2 and 4 1/72   Autoblinda AB40 1/72   122mm A-19 & 152mm ML-20 & 12.8cm Pak.44 {K8 1/2} 1/72   10.5cm Howitzer 16 on Mark. VI(e)  Centurion Mk.1 conversion   M29 Weasel 1/72     SAM6 1/72    T26 Finland  T26 TN 1/72  Autoprotetto S37 1/72     Opel Blitz buses 1/72  Boxer and MAN trucks 1/72   Hetzer38(t) Starr 1/72    

 

Si vis pacem, para bellum

 
 
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  • 3 weeks later...

A warm welcome to all!

First of all thanks to Patrick and Steven for their words.

I have set aside the yardarm to work on the main stay, which is also the only one. For fixing to the mast, the supplier suggests a simple "loop", if I am not mistaken in the terminology, over its top :   

 

a.thumb.jpg.05134896ddb2413eb09aa8c821449a7a.jpg

 

The Nao of Matarò, on the other hand, has a simple rope emerging out of the tangle of cables under the top:

 

g.png.fffe9e3119228c324d5038d6b78b8ffe.png

 

 

Looking at what H. E. Adametz has done on his Santa Maria, which is a little more recent, we will find a very impressive binding on the main mast, but something much smaller on the foremast, perhaps done with a bowline:

 t.thumb.jpg.29c46e7368f0b0d0f5cd39c12ccbecb7.jpg

h.thumb.jpg.41b8097d422e26d90931fab978dd3a93.jpg   i.thumb.jpg.708b0b545a69ba0c202bc5a07bd40dcd.jpg

 

I thought it might also fit on my Cocca:         b.thumb.jpg.ff676c5ec1fd5fe7b5d0947bc5b4f0b5.jpg

 e.thumb.jpg.2fd21cface3497228a94d4ee794933e4.jpg  f.thumb.jpg.498ca0b9e362260daec2bb83b2ef015e.jpg

 

 

Next step: the attachment to the bow deck.

 

See you soon!

 

Rodolfo

c.jpg

d.jpg

Edited by Rodolfo Bigoni
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Dear Friends,

for the fastening to the deck, AMATI proposes the same three-hole deadeyes that he also uses for the shrouds and it seems to me that he ties the stay to the bowsprit pole (and this seems a not very sturdy fixing):

P.thumb.jpg.94779f6cf3ae41dfb736f0ffcde13cf7.jpg s.thumb.jpg.d7105f50e40c4bbad62f9192e5d54b96.jpg                

Perhaps this is not absolutely wrong, since H. E. Adametz too, in his plans of Santa Maria (a few decades more recent than the Nao), has put deadeyes on the forestay, but binds it (split) to the deck with rings. The stay and the forestay of the foremast obviously end up on the bowsprit:

Q.thumb.jpg.ef1bcd84e6f70afc2bd8fa12a2cd7ca4.jpg

 

 

The Nao of Matarò has a system of hoists and blocks, and it too ends in a ring on the deck:

 

straglio.png.805331d4f3ab15252f6fdb31f771efe6.png

 

However, since the lateral shrouds will be made with hoists and blocks, too, for the bow I wanted something different, aesthetically pleasing and plausibly not historically incorrect.

From H. Winter's book on the Santa Maria, I found a drawing of a deadeye that may have been used for the same purpose (Spanish : bigota de estay😞

N.thumb.jpg.67f34abfbf62d461ca34087804d00b5c.jpg

 

At this point I thought about adopting it and enlarged the inner cavity with the file. For the fixing of the deadeye at the deck I chose a metal wire of unknown origin used as a current conductor for the model railways, dating back to the days of the Italian Lira, about twenty years ago. It is not brass as even filing it remains metallic gray. It is very easy to work:       O.thumb.jpg.f3bfb29e47f1e0bf4ce8846f5e0bc39d.jpg

Once I cut and shaped the wire, I coated it with two-component epoxy and filed it down to a single bar, then painted it matte black:r.thumb.jpg.680fd77eb6d6afbe3af3b21074c9cc5e.jpgu.thumb.jpg.0f84434f365f51d19a3b8ff8abe3714b.jpg

 

Obviously the other deadeye is secured with normal bindings. The stay rope is the thickest I had available, about 1,1 mm :

 

x.thumb.jpg.fb8fe303665fa9a9858a1167a68fd33c.jpg y.thumb.jpg.3c825150a47e2ddb5119f5db359ecde2.jpg

 

A little wood stain to the deadeyes also finished the work. Of course, the clear elastic wire is only there temporarily:

 

z.thumb.jpg.608482c8638ec55997c7a2ba7c9c21e3.jpg

 

See you soon!

 

Rodolfo

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Dear friends,

I finally have prepared the cross-tree:                       crocetta1.jpg.511d020df5834fe60def996ed23f6ed2.jpg

 

and glued it on the upper side of the mast: beta.thumb.jpg.edc721e0abc62258f281898280233aab.jpg

 

At the end, after examined a lot of documents, I decided to tie the blocks at both sides of the crosstree, like AMATI's instructions:

crocetta2.thumb.jpg.2908096167911a708227b17d98bc5b51.jpg  crocetta3.thumb.jpg.6d2ae5f54f202f0c0f06d4ff43e68cb4.jpg

 

After that, the rigging starts from the mast block and then runs through hole of the yard block, goes back to the hole of mast block and finally it goes to the quarterdeck rail:

alfa.thumb.jpg.8285b13853fd7775d31bd71cd5e92af9.jpg

 

beta.thumb.jpg.45bd1832285f125053ae39aeb4b2e5d2.jpg gamma.thumb.jpg.4113734ffdbd94ece91b9fc3d7810774.jpg

 

Rigging is not yet in tension, because ultimately the yardarm will be positioned at the bottom.
Obviously all the blocks are self-made.

 

See you later!

 

Rodolfo

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  • 1 month later...

Dear ship-modeler friends,

now it's time to build the ladder that leads from the deck to the top. AMATI instructions are not very clear:g.jpg.5092ff1a358f9a34553bba2fa056f2ba.jpg

Documents of the time show that the top could be closed at the bottom: Giona.jpg.56d8e77e66bee609e701265bc21678ed.jpg

in others it could be opened, like in this one  "Schlusselfelder Schiff" from 1503:  2140758937_100_0678(2).JPG.e8a3bb2c199eb6a72792d2d2866d45e1.JPG

 

In H.E. Adametz's drawings for his Santa Maria, the top was closed:                       100_1948.thumb.JPG.8af85c550e9fe4122183c48568a59606.JPG

 

but in  our Nao it seems to be open or perhaps it has broken at the bottom over the centuries: 169245953_coffanaomatar.jpg.9561f9497339b196ca6257a4c36a900f.jpg

After that, I've decided to build a Jakob's ladder ending in a hole in the bottom of the top. After three or four attempts, this is the least worst I've come up with:

a.thumb.JPG.bf20dedd8fb5e2b2e49ec873f097c4ce.JPGb.thumb.JPG.ca1470164f3d532d5e02a609305eb13a.JPG

 

c.thumb.JPG.7489272c06ab831b4517b8a6023340c6.JPGd.thumb.JPG.4d66300a84a261f703916a5eca307a2b.JPGe.thumb.JPG.623d3520644004ab7fa288f0a3a6eb4b.JPG

 

See you soon!

 

Rodolfo

 

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  • 1 month later...

Dear friends, now we've to move on to laying down the shrouds.

First of all, if I could start now, I would put some rings directly on the deck,  close to the bulwark. Alternatively, I would put four/five rings on a beam fixed to the stanchions of the bulwark with metal bars to support the lower blocks.

Instead, I attached the rings directly to the stanchions, copying the solution adopted in the Nao of Matarò: she also has their blocks tied to the rings with a rope:

2.jpg.261ddac1e1ed8b6801c676588620fc1c.jpg796010043_mat3.jpg.5175edd04eed5f89ff3b6faf1c6e5b38.jpg.69bab3530a41e7aef91294f1bed857a9.jpg

 

Then, lower blocks were attached to the rings with a rope. In order to maintain a constant distance between the blocks and the main rail, I used a screw compass:

 

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I put four shrouds on each side, but it is also possible to put more (but you have to think about it at the beginning; now it is late):

100_1889.thumb.JPG.78bdefdf973265a2917c5a1e6e4c3ad2.JPG

 

Obviously the date is wrong! Regarding the connection between the blocks, after having seen many solutions, I was inspired by this one, described by the following drawing for elucidation:

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That sort of black colored "handlebar" is the taggle also said "borello or borrello" in Italian and can be made of wood or metal. I preferred to made them of metal.

This will be the topic of the next post...see you soon!

Rodolfo

 

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Dear friends, here we are!

Having read that the taggle was made of metal, I then shaped some brass columns to try and fit them. Then I colored them black.10.JPG.7fd64c31480762af914d19c25f4b8850.JPG  11.thumb.JPG.badbf89fab260cbc4406dd8e051ca18f.JPG

 

I also used blocks with a single hole for those attached to the bulwark and two holes for those tied to the shrouds. I have made a simple tool to obtain ties of equal length for the upper blocks:

12.thumb.JPG.078b825835738a05b06b6d723ba493da.JPG 13.thumb.JPG.832fd474dc3128804831169879ab190d.JPG 14.JPG.02f75e20a93ccf51bdf10a0834557395.JPG

 

Now all that's missing is the connection between them, trying to maintain a certain linearity and symmetry:

 

16.thumb.JPG.c3c81a65900d9414a658be6db67998ff.JPG

 

See you later!

 

Rodolfo

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