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Zooker, this could be a very rewarding build, but I'd agree - take your time, record everything as you go, and don't rush into it. You might like to look at the build log for the Great Harry (Henry Grace a Dieu) that the Central Ohio Shipwrights are doing - 

In my opinion they're doing a very good job, taking their time, cleaning and tidying to a point where they're starting with what amounts to a clean slate, rather than "find a problem - correct it, find another problem - correct it", which can get very messy. But they've done their research, recorded everything and worked out what to do before rushing in (something I'm sorry to say is one of my own faults).

 

To get this model back to its former glory you need to be methodical, step by step. And do some reading on the rigging of this kind of ship so you know what you're aiming at.

 

It's likely to be a big job, but with patience and care you'll end up with something to be really proud of, and a good memorial to your uncle.

 

Oh, and nearly forgot - "PM" = Private message - click on the ikon of two "speech bubbles" at the top right hand side of the page. And if there's a message waiting for you there's normally a white number in a red square (from memory) to let you know.

 

 

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On 6/7/2020 at 2:15 PM, ccoyle said:

The only Sea Witch kit that I know of what the old Scientific Models kit, which is long since out of production. Restoration work is challenging to be sure, but we have some members here who can give you pointers. A clipper like yours is one of the most difficult ship types to rig, so they will probably also suggest some reference works for you to peruse.

 

Good luck on your project!

Scientific manufactured a wood solid hull kit, as did the defunct Marine Model Company of New York.  Marx produced a plastic kit with a steel deck. Lindberg modified the Marx kit to include a plastic deck.

 

What are the dimensions of your model?  If it is the old Scientific or Marine Models kit, I can supply parts to you if you would like.  I have several of each kit.

 

Bill

 

 

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Thank you Bill and Louie, for stepping up and helping with good recommendations when it comes the restoration. It's not easy when seeing the ship only by pictures. This is what Modelshipworld is about.

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I believe this to be the Marine Model Kit No. 1079 from he photograph.    About 2 years ago I acquired a partially built model from this kit that had damage from a move.    I started the restoration but decided to not fully rig the ship leaving it as it may have been when launched.   The plans were originally drawn in the 30s.   It was a quality kit and well worth restoring if you have the time and passion.  From time to time these kits show up on eBay.   

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15 hours ago, Zooker said:

One of the things that worries me is how I'm going to replace the rail that runs the width of the stern.  How do you duplicate such a small piece?

It's a bit hard to tell from the photos how that railing is made. Is it cast plastic or made out of individual pieces of wood? Can you provide some close-ups with better detail?

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Thanks, Zooker. The uprights seem to be relatively ok - it seems to be just the railing itself that is missing or damaged. It seems to have been just glued on top of the uprights, and could probably be replaced with a similar piece of wood, after you've cleaned any excess paint, glue etc from the uprights, and the dirt from the top of the middle rail.

 

That's for that part of the ship. But I'd suggest a very systematic approach to the whole vessel. In my view you'd be best to keep everything you possibly can of the original model and only replace with new when you have to. Repair rather than replace.

 

First, take LOTS of photos, from every conceivable angle, to record how everything is fixed to everything else in its current state. Where each rope goes, what it's fixed to and how etc etc, particularly where damage has occurred.

 

Then, gently and systematically remove damaged parts, ropes etc, keeping track of what belongs where. Perhaps put the ropes, spars etc for each particular mast in its own box or envelope. Some ropes go between two masts - that's a matter for judgment - gently unfix it from one end and keep it attached to the other. Depending on the type of glue was used on the model you have various options to remove it - white glue (PVA) succimbs to ru bbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol or isopropanol), and I'm told CA (superglue) dissolves in  nailpolish remover.  Try it out on a relatively unseen part and see what results you get.

 

Once all the damaged stuff is removed, what you have left is the hull and the parts that are in good condition, and you're free to start cleaning up. Apparently the best method of cleaning (which is what museum restorers use) is cotton buds (Q-tips) and saliva, replacing the buds as they get dirty.

 

After everything's clean, you can start in on the repairs.

 

What I wouldn't recommend is to (say) glue a broken mast together while it's still got all the ropes attached - at least not have ropes running from the broken mast to somewhere else. They'll impose uneven forces on the spar and it's almost certain to mend crooked. Work on relatively minor parts that aren't glaringly obvious firstly, so if you make a mistake it doesn't show too much. As you gain experience and confidence, move to the more major items. Oh, and often when a mistake occurs (and they will), it's possible toundo it and do over properly.

 

Just take it methodically and don't hurry. One good repair is worth any number of rushed, half-done ones. Eventually it will start looking like a ship. And in the long run you'll have something you'll be proud to put in a display cabinet and show to your admiring friends.

 

Good luck, and have fun with it!    

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