wefalck Posted June 11, 2020 Share #31 Posted June 11, 2020 Bill97, the colour begins to look good ! I would have, however, sanded down the moulded-on wood structure - compare with the photographs. Canute and mtaylor 2 Quote wefalck panta rhei - Everything is in flux Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted June 11, 2020 Author Share #32 Posted June 11, 2020 Wefalck, if you were me would you leave the color alone now or put a lighter wash on it? I don’t want to sand it down now that it is done to remove the simulated wood grain and start over. Will live with it on this ship and maybe do that on my next one. mtaylor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landlubber Mike Posted June 11, 2020 Share #33 Posted June 11, 2020 1 hour ago, BobG said: Mike, I often find that rattle cans have a tendency to "spit" tiny blobs occasionally even when I'm consistently shaking the can and wiping the nozzle. Did you have any problems like that using the the product you referenced? I'm going to be using Vallejo Air Acrylic paints to paint the hull of the Pen Duick that I'm building currently. It looks like the hulls of these racing sailboats have very polished finish. I've been wondering what will be the best way to obtain that kind of finish on the hull so this product may be a possibility. I'm not sure whether semi-gloss or gloss would be the way to go either. I was worried about that too. I've been using Tamiya rattle cans for paint and they tend to spit which annoys the hell out of me. I have to wait for it to dry, sand, and then cross my fingers and try again. On the F4B-4 and P-6E builds (linked in my signature) I was wondering if I would have a similar issue but everything worked perfect. Now maybe it spit blobs but you can't notice them because it's a clear coat, but again, I was super impressed by the finish and bought a can of semi and gloss that just arrived today. BobG, Keith Black, Canute and 1 other 4 Quote Mike Current Wooden builds: Amati/Victory Pegasus MS Charles W. Morgan Euromodel La Renommèe Plastic builds: SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48 Five Star Yaeyama 1/700 Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32 Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72 IJN Notoro 1/700 Akitsu Maru 1/700 Completed builds : Caldercraft Brig Badger Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700 Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350 F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72 Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48 Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48 Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16 Terminated build: HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn) On the shelf: Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits Future potential scratch builds: HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtvd19 Posted June 12, 2020 Share #34 Posted June 12, 2020 I will only use a rattle can for primer - it will be lightly sanded so it spitting isn't a big deal. Any rattle can paint I apply other than primer is decanted and then put through one of my airbrushes. Kurt Landlubber Mike, Keith Black, mtaylor and 2 others 5 Quote Kurt Van Dahm Director NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD www.thenrg.org SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS CLUBS Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago Midwest Model Shipwrights North Shore Deadeyes The Society of Model Shipwrights Butch O'Hare - IPMS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobG Posted June 12, 2020 Share #35 Posted June 12, 2020 17 hours ago, kurtvd19 said: I will only use a rattle can for primer - it will be lightly sanded so it spitting isn't a big deal. Any rattle can paint I apply other than primer is decanted and then put through one of my airbrushes. I think that's wise advice, Kurt. kurtvd19, Keith Black, mtaylor and 1 other 4 Quote Bob Garcia "Measure once, cuss twice!" Current Builds: Hms Brig-Sloop Flirt 1782 - Vanguard Models Pen Duick - Artesania Latina 1:28 Completed: Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Co. Member of the Nautical Research Guild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted June 13, 2020 Author Share #36 Posted June 13, 2020 I ultimately went with a lacquer in a spray can. Numerous very light coats. Basically one swipe across the surface each time and ample drying time between each. Seems to have come out all right. Went with a semi-gloss. I am satisfied. mtaylor, Canute and Keith Black 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wefalck Posted June 13, 2020 Share #37 Posted June 13, 2020 Sorry to say, but decks were always matt, as they were always bare, untreated wood that more or less regularly scrubbed with a piece of sandstone ('holy stone') .... but it is your choice. mtaylor and Canute 2 Quote wefalck panta rhei - Everything is in flux Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaddoc Posted June 13, 2020 Share #38 Posted June 13, 2020 I remembered that once I used Rennaisance wax over wood treated with Tung oil (after it had cured). This wax is completely transparent, did not change the colour at all and did not really add any shine-the wood though was pear sanded to 400 grit. This would certainly seal and waterproof the wood. Maybe this would have been a option but not over painted wood. Canute, mtaylor and Keith Black 3 Quote Current projects: 21' Fisherman's Launch - plans by Howard Chapelle Completed projects: 21' Yawl Longboat - plans from the National Maritime Museum Deben 5 tonner - a Whisstock yard design 24' exploration gaff rigged ketch - a Tad Roberts design 15' knockabout sailing boat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wefalck Posted June 13, 2020 Share #39 Posted June 13, 2020 This is acrylics on polystyrene. No wood involved here ... mtaylor 1 Quote wefalck panta rhei - Everything is in flux Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaddoc Posted June 13, 2020 Share #40 Posted June 13, 2020 Oh dear, I completely missed the plot then! Canute, Keith Black and mtaylor 3 Quote Current projects: 21' Fisherman's Launch - plans by Howard Chapelle Completed projects: 21' Yawl Longboat - plans from the National Maritime Museum Deben 5 tonner - a Whisstock yard design 24' exploration gaff rigged ketch - a Tad Roberts design 15' knockabout sailing boat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Black Posted June 13, 2020 Share #41 Posted June 13, 2020 Eberhard, I know you dislike Poly applied over acrylic because of the overall gloss, correct? Other than the sheen aspect, what would be the harm in applying Poly over acrylic paint? I have applied Poly over painted surfaces for years, numerous projects including modeling and I've yet to encounter a bad side effect. I'm not sure this isn't a case of "we agree to disagree." Canute and mtaylor 2 Quote Current Builds: Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia Completed: Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted June 13, 2020 Author Share #42 Posted June 13, 2020 Wefalck. I know you are right on the matt finish. I thought about that after I finished it. Tried to convince myself it was OK but obviously it is noticeable to anyone who knows about these ships. Probably should give it a couple coats of matt finish before I progress any further. kurtvd19, Canute and mtaylor 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill97 Posted June 13, 2020 Author Share #43 Posted June 13, 2020 OK wefalck, the deck is now matt. Have to admit I do like it better. mtaylor, Canute, wefalck and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wefalck Posted June 13, 2020 Share #44 Posted June 13, 2020 Yep, looking better 👍 As I noted earlier, I think, playing with the different levels of sheen between the different materials adds visual interest and underlines the character of the material, particularly, when you simulate material with paint. In a 2D-painting you bring out these effects with high-lights and painted-in reflections, but on a 3D-object the view-point and illumination changes, plus the inherent reflectivity of the surfaces, so one can really only work with this reflectivity to create the feeling for the material. Figure-painters to some degree use both techniques, but it does not work so well on larger objects. mtaylor, Keith Black and Canute 3 Quote wefalck panta rhei - Everything is in flux Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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