Zooker Posted June 10, 2020 Share #1 Posted June 10, 2020 Is there a favorite brand among you folks who use this type of adhesive? I see that Gorilla Glue has a syringe product, but this is far more than I would require for my restoration project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yvesvidal Posted June 10, 2020 Share #2 Posted June 10, 2020 My favorite is Araldite (In Europe). It comes in two flavors: slow curing (24 hours) and fast curing (5 minutes). The slow curing is the only one to consider. I have tried various brands in the USA, but never found one that came close to Araldite. Yves tkay11 and mtaylor 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaddoc Posted June 10, 2020 Share #3 Posted June 10, 2020 Epoxies can have different properties, some cure flexible, some are more brittle. I use epoxy a lot, mostly for laminating and always thickened. I am not very happy with the results using it as glue unthickened-too brittle. I very much like Zpoxy, it is expensive though. I use the 30 min for gluing stuff and the finishing resin for laminating. Self life seems to be indefinite. If the hardener and resin become too thick and crystalise, 10 secs in the microwave restore to liquid form. I use gloves and syringes to accurately measure equal volumes. Moab and mtaylor 2 Quote Current projects: 21' Fisherman's Launch - plans by Howard Chapelle Completed projects: 21' Yawl Longboat - plans from the National Maritime Museum Deben 5 tonner - a Whisstock yard design 24' exploration gaff rigged ketch - a Tad Roberts design 15' knockabout sailing boat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reklein Posted June 10, 2020 Share #4 Posted June 10, 2020 I'm not a big fan of 5 minute gorilla glue epoxy. Hard to use the double syringe thing,and the glue doesn't set near as quicly as its advertised to. I guess I prefer Locktites I think it it in separate tubes, Back in the 80s and 90s when I was build R/C planes I used a different brand that I was really happy with but cant find it in the hobby shops any longer,and I can't remember the name . mtaylor 1 Quote Bill, in Idaho Completed Mamoli Halifax and Billings Viking ship in 2015 Next Model Shipways Syren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zooker Posted June 10, 2020 Author Share #5 Posted June 10, 2020 I need something strong and quick-drying because I'm repairing mast tops and spars that hold rigging. mtaylor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaddoc Posted June 10, 2020 Share #6 Posted June 10, 2020 Zpoxy 5 min or 30 min will work, if it is epoxy you need but really any branded epoxy would be fine. However the opening time is very much temperature dependent, I found that sometimes the 5 min allowed very little window to arrange pieces. In the past I ve used the 30 min which I warmed beforehand so it would cure much quicker. If the broken pieces match well, you could just use PVA. Maybe drilling a hole, use 1 mm screws to hold pieces while PVA cures, then fill hole with dowel or just use tape. Probably cleaner solution. Epoxy is really very messy! Also, you will need to prepare and mix a new epoxy quantity for every repair you need to make Uncured epoxy being alkaline cleans well with vinegar, the acid destroys it immediately. mtaylor 1 Quote Current projects: 21' Fisherman's Launch - plans by Howard Chapelle Completed projects: 21' Yawl Longboat - plans from the National Maritime Museum Deben 5 tonner - a Whisstock yard design 24' exploration gaff rigged ketch - a Tad Roberts design 15' knockabout sailing boat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zooker Posted June 11, 2020 Author Share #7 Posted June 11, 2020 For most of the repairs, I need the strongest possible bond because of the stress on them. Basic wood glue will suffice for the other misc. items. Thanks for your input. I can never get enough info for this first-time project for me. mtaylor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkuzminov Posted June 13, 2020 Share #8 Posted June 13, 2020 I'm using general purpose 5 min Loctite, mostly because that was the cheapest option in Walmart (less than $3 for 0.85 oz). So far so good, but 5 minutes is too fast. Anyway, except of this fast curing, the experience is almost the same as with the epoxy I used 25 years ago in the ship modelling club I attended in my childhood. I plan to get some 30 minutes epoxy, for now I'm regarding Great Planes Pro Epoxy 30-Minute Formula. Does anybody have the experience and recommendations? For the pure curiosity: what is considered to be "natural" epoxy: the slow curing one or fast curing? Are there disadvantages in any of them (e.g. PSI)? Another recommendation I'm asking: I plan to fix a porcelain cup. What are the features to pay special attention to: transparency, flexibility, strength? Could you recommend any special brand/model, especially for US market? mtaylor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
druxey Posted June 13, 2020 Share #9 Posted June 13, 2020 If the porcelain cup is a valuable one, ask a museum conservator. They do not use epoxy! mtaylor 1 Quote Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series http://trafalgar.tv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaddoc Posted June 13, 2020 Share #10 Posted June 13, 2020 For porcelain, best to get epoxy putty. It comes in two pieces of soft material (actually not too soft) that you mix well and then use to glue the pieces. I repaired a porcelain plate, the repair was invisible and rock solid. Google Milliput mtaylor 1 Quote Current projects: 21' Fisherman's Launch - plans by Howard Chapelle Completed projects: 21' Yawl Longboat - plans from the National Maritime Museum Deben 5 tonner - a Whisstock yard design 24' exploration gaff rigged ketch - a Tad Roberts design 15' knockabout sailing boat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtvd19 Posted June 13, 2020 Share #11 Posted June 13, 2020 I have used Bob Smith Industries 5, 15 and 30 minute cure epoxies for years and consider them the best I have used. BSI puts store labels on their glues so if you see a store label C/A or Epoxy glue look on the back label and you will probably see the BSI name and round logo. Model Expo sells both BSI Epoxy and C/A mtaylor and RichardG 2 Quote Kurt Van Dahm Director NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD www.thenrg.org SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS CLUBS Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago Midwest Model Shipwrights North Shore Deadeyes The Society of Model Shipwrights Butch O'Hare - IPMS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardG Posted June 13, 2020 Share #12 Posted June 13, 2020 I use the 15 minute BSI epoxy all the time. I also like having the squeeze bottles, those epoxies in the twin syringe are a pain. Richard. kurtvd19 and mtaylor 2 Quote Richard Current Build: Early 19th Century US Revenue Cutter (Artesania Latina "Dallas" - messed about) Completed Build: Yakatabune - Japanese - Woody Joe mini Member: Nautical Research Guild & Midwest Model Shipwrights Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaddoc Posted June 13, 2020 Share #13 Posted June 13, 2020 Never used BSI epoxy, but their CA glue is fantastic. mtaylor 1 Quote Current projects: 21' Fisherman's Launch - plans by Howard Chapelle Completed projects: 21' Yawl Longboat - plans from the National Maritime Museum Deben 5 tonner - a Whisstock yard design 24' exploration gaff rigged ketch - a Tad Roberts design 15' knockabout sailing boat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkuzminov Posted June 14, 2020 Share #14 Posted June 14, 2020 9 hours ago, vaddoc said: For porcelain, best to get epoxy putty. It comes in two pieces of soft material (actually not too soft) that you mix well and then use to glue the pieces. I repaired a porcelain plate, the repair was invisible and rock solid. Google Milliput If I understood correctly which putty you mean, it is not thin and has color. Intuitively I expected that transparent liquid epoxy would be the best. I'm very surprised that your repair is invisible, so could you please provide more info? The value of the cup is mostly by the fact that it was a gift. Regular "bone china". I just wish to feel that I've done the most I could do repairing it by myself. mtaylor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaddoc Posted June 14, 2020 Share #15 Posted June 14, 2020 56 minutes ago, dkuzminov said: could you please provide more info? It is a very thick putty, thicker than play doh or plastelin, and is the colour of porcelain. It hangs on to the rough edges of the broken pieces and cures rock hard. A tiny amount will be needed so invisible. It is very cheap. I tried to find that repaired piece but it has moved on. mtaylor 1 Quote Current projects: 21' Fisherman's Launch - plans by Howard Chapelle Completed projects: 21' Yawl Longboat - plans from the National Maritime Museum Deben 5 tonner - a Whisstock yard design 24' exploration gaff rigged ketch - a Tad Roberts design 15' knockabout sailing boat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zooker Posted June 14, 2020 Author Share #16 Posted June 14, 2020 Kurt: The BSI glue sounds like what I'm looking for, but I don't think I need a gap filler if I'm only reattaching mast tops and spars, right? Hopefully I can remove the old adhesive using the method(s) described by others in earlier posts. BTW: We lived in Lombard for 26 years prior to moving to Wisconsin. Nice town! mtaylor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zooker Posted June 14, 2020 Author Share #17 Posted June 14, 2020 You guys ever hear of this stuff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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