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US Brig SYREN 1803 by Justin P. - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64


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On 1/15/2021 at 8:34 AM, georgeband said:

I would love to see a few close up photos of the bow and stern.

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I was recently working on the rudder, and just couldn't get behind it.   I think Im getting a bit saturated on this build and need a break.  Not from modeling, but perhaps from the type of modeling demanded by Syren.   Ive been wanting to dip my toe into more scratch building as well, and have a project that can fit the weird time I have to model when I don't have the focus and stretches of time required by the Syren project in the coming steps.   Im also waiting on some bronze sheet that will take some time, and I hate idleness.   Im also not the type that can jump ahead effectively and still keep track of what Im doing.  I can multitask-task several projects but have never been good at seeing projects through in a non-linear fashion. 

 

Ive been preparing for a crack at the Triton cross section group project featured elsewhere on MSW, and have created a build log to record my efforts there.  Perhaps some of the skills developed as a scratch builder will benefit me as I approach the more complicated steps coming in this build. To be clear, Im not abandoning this project, just fitting something else in knowing this one may take a quite a long time and want to prevent burn-out.   

 

Stay tuned ;), rudder coming soon. 

 

 

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4 hours ago, Justin P. said:

To be clear, Im not abandoning this project, just fitting something else in knowing this one may take a quite a long time and want to prevent burn-out.

I know exactly how you feel and I think it's a perfectly fine idea to take a break from the Syren until you feel the pull to get back to it again. 

 

I've been away from my Pen Duick build for a couple of months now for a variety of reasons. Mostly because my perfectionism was getting in the way of me enjoying the process. So I stepped away for a while and started playing my guitar again. I'd been so focused on modeling that I'd forgotten just how much I love playing my guitar.

 

It's been great and I'm really getting into fingerstyle Brazilian music. I always loved Bossa Nova and Samba but found the rhythms complicated and the complex chord shapes technically very difficult. I've been playing a lot lately and I'm really pleased with my progress. My muscle memory for the difficult chord shapes is coming around and I'm having fun.

 

I was looking at my Pen Duick today and I'm about ready to get going on it again. The time away from modeling has been good for me. I feel like I'll be refreshed when I start working on her again. 

 

Good luck on whatever comes next for you, Justin.   

Bob Garcia

"Measure once, cuss twice!"

 

Current Builds: 

Hms Brig-Sloop Flirt 1782 - Vanguard Models

Pen Duick - Artesania Latina 1:28

 

Completed: Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Co. 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

 

 

 

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22 hours ago, Justin P. said:

I think Im getting a bit saturated on this build and need a break.  Not from modeling, but perhaps from the type of modeling demanded by Syren.  

 

Totally agree with you on this one.  My job has been pulling me in multiple directions lately, and the time commitment to 'get things done' on my Syren has been a bit of a challenge.  Kind of hard to start-stop-start in spurts and sputters.  I actually was looking at starting a side project as well to give my confidence a bit of a well needed boost!  Take a break and enjoy your hobby!  

----------------------------------------------------

“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Rudder, Pintels and Gudgeons...

 

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A decent break, and nice bit of time to step away from this did the trick.   I had been gearing for this bit of the build for awhile.   I had decided on bronze for my lintels and gudgeons rather than the copper plated as the available options for achieving this just didn't sit right with me and I recall reading somewhere that bronze was used due to its relative compatibility with copper under the waterline.   Having not worked with this material in past, I also wanted to give it a try.   I sourced some 28 gauge sheet from Rio Grande at a decent price and used Patricks technique for taking it down to strips by sandwiching it between sheets of some scrap I had laying around.  

 

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I was especially thankful to have recalled Patricks early discussion about this as it turns out Bronze has quite different workability and does not easily cut by hand as brass does.  I had first tried just to cut it with a ruler and razor but that just didn't work at all.  This method used on a power saw worked great and was very accurate.  After soldering a brass wire for the pintels, filing everything down and blackening the above-waterline components I ended up with a pretty good set of hardware for the rudder.  

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Getting everything mounted properly certainly was not a pretty affair, but it cleaned up ok.   The bronze ended up with more scratches on its finish than I would have liked when it was all said and done so I need to sort out some kind of polishing situation at some point.   Trying to do this after the fact is not ideal, but I think I got some tunnel vision and didn't really notice how much it was scratched up until examining it again the next day.  

 

Overall though, I really like the contrast of the bronze/copper and especially like that its not brass and I avoided trying to make the copper tape work which I think would not have worked given the finish of the Amati plates.  

 

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Edited by Justin P.
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  • 2 weeks later...

Small update:

 

Plugging away now at Ch. 9, "Hull Details" which I think will take a bit of time.   Im very wary of drilling into my hull to add the stern sheaves and still am at a loss over how to work out the carvings, side badges and so forth.   So it goes... 

 

Today I started with something easy and got the port lid assembly line going...    

 

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She's a beauty, Justin!  I can understand your hesitation on drilling the sheaves at the stern and midships.  But I'm sure you'll find a good solution.  Really enjoying your build.  She's glowing!

----------------------------------------------------

“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Gunport Lids continued...

 

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I enjoyed this bit of the build, and though Ive definitely had tighter fits in the past, Im ultimately happy with how these turned out (for now).   If it turns out I cant stand the odd gap on the forward and aft ports I might redo them...   

 

I deviated a bit from the plan here only in that when I filed down the rabbet around the end edges I decided I did not like them completely painted so I left this and just stained them to match.  Its a subtle difference from what is called for in the instructions but I liked the end result.  

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Both starboard and port lids are complete now...    on to those pesky sheaves.  

 

A note on rulers...

For anyone who likes a good measuring tool,  I just picked this up on impulse the other day and man do I like it!   It has tiny little holes throughout and make transferring a measurement to wood extremely accurate.   Using a .2 drafting pencil and this thing has change my life.   Making a mark is so much more accurate and repeatable, something Ive struggled with. 

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Which model of Incra ruler is that, Justin? Do you have a link for where you bought it?

Bob Garcia

"Measure once, cuss twice!"

 

Current Builds: 

Hms Brig-Sloop Flirt 1782 - Vanguard Models

Pen Duick - Artesania Latina 1:28

 

Completed: Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Co. 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

 

 

 

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10 hours ago, BobG said:

Which model of Incra ruler is that, Justin? Do you have a link for where you bought it?

I actually picked my up on impulse at my local hardware store but looking at the Incra website, it looks like I have the 300mm metric model: here.

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Hull details cont...

 

After finishing out the gunport lids on the port and starboard side I started in on the stern port lids, the ships name and other smaller details.   

 

The first thing was the lettering.   I cant recall exactly who first described the method I used, but it always stuck with me as the most fool proof approach.   I took a very thin piece of basswood and painted it hull black, after which I cut it to fit the appropriate area on the transom.  Then after painting the lettering white and marking up the spacing best I could, mounted the letters to the plank.   Then all that was needed was to insert the plank.

 

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After that I set about putting the stern port lids together and got them mounted.  Im still happy with leaving the rabbet area unpainted on these lids.  

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This was followed by the ladder, fenders and main and fore channels.   Fairly straightforward work, but it took time and this weekend was competing with the obligatory spring yard work and clean-up so I only got the starboard side completed.   Still have sheaves to do, quarter badges and stern decorative work.   All of which Im dreading and procrastinating on big time...   lots of planning for the badges and stern work but nothing yet to really write home about.

 

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The stern name plate method was mine. It was the only way I could think of to get the letters on in a consistent manner. 👍🏽

----------------------------------------------------

“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 3/1/2021 at 10:33 AM, Overworked724 said:

The stern name plate method was mine.

Thanks Patrick: I should have known ;)  

 

UPDATES

 

It feels like ages since Ive last posted on my Syren progress.   Aside from actually working on the model itself Ive been doing some background on miniature carving and sculpting to get some headway on the transom decorative work, and the figurehead.   Reviewing Chucks stuff here, as well as reading Bill Short's "Carving Ornamentation for Ship Models," both of which I found helpful.   Work is returning as COVID restrictions ease, so time is slipping away sadly..   back to my 2.5 hour commute and lots of reading time.  

 

I think Ill have a crack at both methods suggested in the Syren instructions.    Ive some Sculpy experience so Ill take a crack at that before trying the carving.   

 

I built a dummy stem and made some transom stencils to practice on...    Ill update as things move forward.  

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Wow almost a month since my last update...   since then Ive gotten part of vaccine, took the family to Hawaii and returned to 75% onsite work.   Cant say I welcome the last, but resetting after a sunny trip to HI sure made a difference in getting my attitude straight.    

 

Ive been a little all over the place with Syren.   In my last post I was working on ways to come up with a figurehead that I like that hasn't really gone anywhere definitive yet.   I have a tried a few things, and will continue to do so until I have something worth showing.   I did however start working on the timber heads and have taken a crack at the transom ornamentation.  Both of which have gone much more smoothly than my attempts with the figurehead.   

 

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For the stern ornamentation I had to redraw the plan digitally to get a good copy, then resize it down to fit the final dimension of my transom which ended up a few millimeters shorter than the original plan version.   I then printed a few copies onto adhesive backed stencil film and mounted it to hardwood.   I have ZERO carving experience so Ive been trying all sorts of techniques (hence the number of printed stencils).   

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Ultimately I used a fine high-speed rotary tool (dental drill type) to cut out the pattern as it is so delicate I kept breaking it, so I remounted it using double stick tape for carving after checking fit.  I found that remounting it for carving was essential so that it had the support needed for the tools (even if really sharp).

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Thats about as far as Ive gotten.   So far Im happy with the progress and hope it eventually turns out.   The one pictured is my third attempt, perhaps there will be a fourth.   I still need to carve in the details, which I still need to work out how to do.  

 

 

 

 

Edited by Justin P.
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On 4/19/2021 at 6:04 PM, BobG said:

Gorgeous, Justin! She's going to be a beauty for sure.

Thanks Bob!  

 

 

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Well the final stain came out quite a lot darker than I hoped, but all in all for a first time carver of what I would call a "micro carving" Im pretty happy.   Bummed that the stain sort of took it down so far, but glad to be over the hump.   All things considered, I am NOT a fan of carving at this scale, ha!  I tried to get more detail out of it, but I just couldn't and once I got to certain point the inner voice started squeaking "Don't let perfect be the enemy of good!"  So I left it, stained in Golden Oak and it just sucked it right up!  I also really wanted it to have a scale look and not be overly meaty but the thinner I went the farther I moved from confident I would break the damn thing just handling it.   

 

I learned a great deal.

 

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Wow! That's some beautiful carving! What tools did you use for the small detail work? 

 

I also keep looking at the copper plates. It has developed a very nice patina! 

Current: 

USF Confederacy - Model Shipways (Build Log)

HMS Pickle - Caldercraft (Build Log)

 

Complete:

Virgina 1819 - Artesania Latina (Gallery)

U.S. Brig Syren - Model Shipways (Build Log, Gallery)

 

On the shelf:

Armed Virginia Sloop - Model Shipways

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43 minutes ago, WalrusGuy said:

Wow! That's some beautiful carving! What tools did you use for the small detail work? 

 

Thanks!  I don’t know if my experience is anything to learn from.  I probably used 10 more tools than I really needed, I tried a lot of different things.   Ultimately the most wood was removed with a #11 x-acto blade(s).   At one point I was using a dental burr between my fingers.   It was a round-a-bout method, which I’m sure will get better with experience...
 

 

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It looks very good, carving at that scale is tough. 

     Current:         Emma C. Berry Lobster Smack-Model Shipways-1:32-1866

        Back on the shelf:    USS Essex- MS- "Old Yellow Box" Solid Hull  Wall Hanger (Half Hull)                                                                                                                                                                                              

   Completed:    18th Century Armed Longboat-MS 1/24

                          USN Picket Boat-MS 1864 1/24                                  

                          US Brig Syren by Sea Hoss- Model Shipways-1803

                          18th Century Carronade/Ship Section

                          Mayflower-Pilgrims Pride by Sea Hoss-Model Shipways-1620

                          18th Century Long Boat by Sea Hoss-Model Shipways

                          USS Constitution by Sea Hoss-Revel-Plastic

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4 minutes ago, Sea Hoss said:

It looks very good, carving at that scale is tough. 

It really is.  I found that optivisors were absolutely essential. 

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