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Tony,

As this is your first post, welcome to MSW!!  Perhaps you could post a little intro about yourself in the new members section.

 

Regarding your question, if the parts are wood, don't use CA.  

 

Welcome again.

 

Allan 

 

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Simply use whatever serves the purpose, shape-wise and wrap it in kitchen plastic wrap. CA sticks to glass and metal just fine, so... I've never had a problem with epoxies or CA sticking to plastic wrap because whatever plastic wrap that sticks tears or scrapes off easily. I have to say, though, that I use CA as little as possible. In a lot of ways, I find it nasty stuff and expensive.

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This is my 2nd build. I finished the Bluenose using exclusively titebond wood glue.  This build is the Pride of Baltimore. I thought I'd try Bob Hunt's practicum and he used CA for almost everything so that's what I'm using on this build. Hull and deck are complete, stained and painted and it looks pretty good. I've used CA for everything including hull and deck planking and the only problems encountered were a few misalignments that I had to redo.

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I use several methods depending on the item.  For basic stuff I have constructed a right angled jig using a Poly(something) Board (the stuff bread/cutting boards are made from - see top left).  Cut a thin strip long enough for two pieces and thick enough to remain rigid.  Glue ( I used 2 part epoxy) and screw to the base board (whatever size you want) and use an engineer's square when setting up to ensure a true 90 deg.  This allows you to square each corner as you glue up and PVA glue will not stick to it.  I had previously made one from 1/4 in plate glass to use with CA also but it was chipped when a club member dropped it - haven't replaced it yet.  Be sure to get the glazier to round/polish the exposed edges when he cuts it (not the bottom or side edges that form the corner though) - this can be a cheap option if you ask for 'off cuts' from larger jobs.

 

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For more fiddly bits where you want to glue up the full square /rectangular frame together I have used a sliding arrangement.  These are done as needed (as per Bob's suggestion) so I cannot provide a photo but essentially the jig can be made from scrap wood (waxed surfaces to stop glue sticking - the edges and base surface must be trued and smooth though).  Make the jig as above but with a much larger base board and shorter right angled pieces in one corner only.  Then simply use strips of wood or metal (trued) that can be clamped to the much larger base, truing up with 'squares' as you go.

 

The final options I use are commercial clamps - I have two types.  One is a miniature framing clamp set (Top Right), and the other is  for things like cabin walls (need one clamp per corner).  I got mine at MicroMark years ago (no affiliation) but you can find them (or variations) elsewhere.

 

Hope this helps?

 

Cheers

 

Pat

 

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1 hour ago, mtaylor said:

Welcome to MSW, Tony.   I merged your two topics you posted on the this so all the answers in one.

I just deleted my first post in this thread. I saw I'd posted twice and said basically the same thing in the same thread and I thought I was getting a bit foggy in the head! I'm no spring chicken but not that old. 

 

Thanks for clearing that up and restoring my confidence in my sanity! :D

 

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  • 1 month later...

For the very small stuff I print squares and lines on A4. Then I use wide clear tape with the sticky side up. Sometimes you need sticks to prevent it from curling, which can also be used as guides. Using wood glue you can peel the tape when dry quite easily.

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