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Thx Bugra


Next test - future colour of deck


I have mahogany veneer (no space for something thicker without endangering narrow space bellow fore deck which deepness is already "streched" to proper thickness)


Connected to earlier deliberation of deck colour, first I decide to try something between mahogany and grey colour - dark enough to contrast with it to keep the colour gamut of "teak", while at the same time be a little greyish. And not shiney. And caulking to be seen  ( also to the North Pole to be settled by grasshoppers, and to have 25 years again, and to ... )


You folks have no idea how hard is to precise describe colour issues when english is not your born language


Also tried different techniques of making and glueing slices, and caulking


Pre-sanded and natural veneer, shaped edges and non shaped, blacked edges and non blacked edges with black marker, on one or on both sides, slices with space and without space between, grey and white transparent covering ... 




Obviously more tests to follow


For this evening it is hard to imagine this on deck, Maybe I ll be little smarter tomorrow


Also must run some other tests, and WAIT FOR COLOUR TO DRY (Bindy, do you read ?)


Because of bad light condition and weak camera, I am not sure what will be seen




Here are results for you, and a cup of coffie and a peacefull evening with Admiral for me












Not exactly. 


Elections in Serbia are next week, and Admiral watch some politic soap debate, which I listen with half of one ear (that amount of gibberish and lies makes me very nervous) , so I dive in armchair near Admiral, pull laptop on my knee, and .... INTERNET !!!!

Edited by Nenad M
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Nenad;  I like the tests you're doing;  Mahogany is a great wood; my kit came with enough strips to plank the entire ship, but I found the mahogany grain to be too out-of-scale. On another note can you tell me what this means from your last post?


 ( also to the North Pole to be settled by grasshoppers, and to have 25 years again, and to ... )  :D



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Hahaha yes I DO read Nenad!  You know me far too well for my own good haha.


I really do understand your challenges in describing things (particularly colours) when English is not your native language but you do a fantastic job and your posts always make sense :)   This is very clever when you consider Politicians don't make any sense at all in any language, even their own haha :P

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#3. If you can make it even lighter I'd do that. I'd want it to look weathered. If you're going for a like new look, then #2 might be best. #1 doesn't look right to my eye for some reason. Weathered teak can look very light grey. It goes very well with tarnished unpolished bronze or copper. A nice weathered green look with a grey deck. That's what I'd be going for. Our lady was a hard working Queen and as such would often have had a weathered appearance throughout her career. Particularly under the Portuguese.

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I think I'd go with no. 3.  It looks close to many of the pre-restoration photos out there.  I chose a lighter color for my deck more for my personal preference than historical accuracy.  Everything looks great, by the way.  Looking forward to your next steps...



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Thx for helping gentleman


For you








Here on MSW are two master builders who contagiously influence me with endless testing, searching for ... trying, and another testing ....  ;)


Actually, between two possible choices


Obviously "grey" 




And obviously "brown" when deck is wet




I am looking for something for compomize, for example this




Little drop of pink colour ???


Idea is to reduce contrast with bulwarks, still to keep contrast with deck houses


Some more test have to be done before final decision

Also I like weathered look, but if I decide to weather whole model. It has no sense to weather dock, and to leave outside bulwark brand new 



Edited by Nenad M
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I loitered the shops today, wear off my poor legs to knee, and find something which I think it will be OK (with little touching ... )


Cherry tree veneer, or something similarly, which "draws" on pink 


In this shop ( handmade furniture salon) I find only samples, and to bye must go factory 30 km out of the town ... sending option for 0,5 m2 is not feasible ... 



Edited by Nenad M
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weathering is a hard thing to do......one of the reasons why I don't do too much.    do one aspect,  then you have to do it all........I always end up thinking I did something wrong..........then I end up fixing it :huh:    I need to let loose my  'inner child' .........back in the day when I loved getting dirty! :D :D :D


you could do your planking.........the difference in the color will do half the work for you.   then make up a batch of gray wash.......make it very......very thin....all you want is pigment.   brush it on and wipe quick.......do small areas at a time.  this should give you the gray tint,  and still let the wood color be the dominant color.  I would probably use an acrylic for this.......don't try enamels....the suspensions in it might seal the wood.  if you can find this in a stain.......might be your best bet.

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Nenad:  I know these colors are somewhat off-base to your solution, but I'll show you the colors I chose.  (The ship's boat is not for the Cutty, it's just an experiment).  My stains are all from Minwax:  The ship's boat interior is Golden Pecan, which has a slight pinkish hue that you may be looking for.  It is not overcoated.  My deck is Ipswitch Pine, coated with polyurethane.  The top of the deckhouse is also Ipswitch Pine, but appears (disturbingly) different from the main deck, even though the stain is from the same can.  It has not been overcoated yet.  The trim and deckhouse sides are all red mahogany, which in retrospect is a little too dark for my taste, but I won't be reworking the finished hatches and deckhouse already made.  (I can live with this..)


I know how you feel when your mind gets "saturated" with all the choices, and starts to go numb... :huh:


Hope this helps a little...




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Bob, when I enter this adventure, I had no single idea how many questions and dilemas will be there. I just though - cut a piece, glue it, and paint , and next, and next. Of course, you can go on that easier way, if you have not worm in head ( same one which visit my posts from time to time)


And onde day you discover great joy in researching and finding solutions and makeing decisions, maybe even greater joy than pure makeing of some part ( or 56 - 2000 parts)


I was thinking a lot about in "stanchion" stage. really enjoy in experiments, and when factory starts ... same thing with inside bulvark strips with rivets ... 


And when finish this , conditionaly said, booring phase, joy again in new and next chalenge


Time laps and drops, and one day you look at your work, and suddenly discover : Oh, that seems to be real good model...


And tomorrow you will see something you messed, and bang your hed in wall


And in circle again


But, all that things are real fun and joy. Much more interesting and relaxing  than watching TV

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BTW, Bob, really nice and pedant work in your photo


I wish I could do that






No progress today, exept succesfully buried top of scalpel into my thumb, and spilled cup of coffie on workbench, at the same start of new experiment. Not big dil, no damage, but when evening started with accidents, I though better to watch "Suleiman The Magnificent" instead "Nenad The fingerless" or "Campbell Plans Under Coffie Sea"


Huh ...

Edited by Nenad M
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Contemplating your comment about weathered deck and new bulwarks. Since the deck is unfinished, won't it always be weathered? The bulwarks could be repainted and new at anytime. I do not see a conflict. Weathered deck will be a good contrast to new bulwarks. It will make the ship look more realistic.    


Keep up the good work.

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Nenad, I think the lighter grey you first showed on her majesties' real deck. You get around the weathered deck but not weathered hull by telling yourself that no skipper will varnish his decks but he'll paint the ship. That allows the deck to weather but the rest of the hull to be improved from time to time as the mate sees fit. 

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Thx friends for your comments and likes


Bob, nothing serious with hand, even without hanzaplast. I was extremely awkward at the same start of working, and decide not to go further with this state of mind


Interesting point of view in upper posts, I was not thinking earlier about


Obviously it is time to admit that in my model live little skipper, sailors, captain, carpenter etc etc, with their own will, and I have to talk with them about their intention how to maintain Her Majesty. Maybe to introduce a regular briefing?


I quess they live under deck for now, but I am afraid for them to be angry when holes for masts will be closed during re-planking deck. Who knows whether they are unionized, and go on strike ?


I have to figure out something about it. 


Maybe windows ? And how many ? Today, only four on each side. On some old photos it seems windows run along from stem to stern. I must ask my crew how old are they 




And this admition definitely solves question of the presence of witches and ghosts in the shipyard



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The row of ports were cut later in life. Deciding when you want your model to represent will determine how many to put. Forward there are 4 ports for the men in the focs'l. They were there from the beginning. I wouldn't put a row all the way along her hull. It looks wrong for a grand lady like her.

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