Cutty Sark by Nenad

[NenadM]

Hi Tass, thanks for kind words

 

Here is "fake riveting school"

 

All you need is drop of classic wood glue and thinned toothpick

 

Testing on 0,5x4mm veneer

 

 

Take a thinny drop of glue on the same top of toothpick, and just "write" your rivets

 

 

When dry, make another pass at same points

 

 

And that is all. 

 

After paintong you have your rivets

 

 

Instead wood glue, you can use acrylic paint or putty. Just play a little and make experiments until you got desired look

 

 

[NenadM]

Last working on Her until come back from vacation

 

Ant workers, ghosts, wizards and dwarfs activated ... and after three cracked attempts, and two self-suicide jumps of parts from desk to floor, here are bollards for fore deck

 

 

Scale is ok, but their base is only 8x4 mm. I dropped my eyes to floor

 

 

Glued and on position (as a paletyes too)

 

 

 

[GLakie]

Nice work Nenad. Don't you just hate when small parts try to commit suicide like that? 

 

Cheers and have a good trip 

[NenadM]

Yes, I HATE !!!! 

 

Apsolute no way to find top of the bollard or 4 mm Cu wire on the floor

[mtaylor]

Her Majesty is coming alive!!  Tiny work, tired eyes, and suicide for the parts.  Yep.. it's what we do.   Have a great vacation.

[tasmanian]

thanks Nenad . good idea i m gonna try that

[keelhauled]

your bollards look great!  what are they made from?

[NenadM]

Base: two 0,5mm veneer layers

Body: 1mm Cu wire

Cap: isolation of same Cu wire

Rest: playing with acrylic

[keelhauled]

you are becoming quite a sculptor!

[dgbot]

You are doing a bang up job Nenad.

David B

[NenadM]

Dqy No 1: deep in woods

 

[NenadM]

Day 3: Zlatibor

[NenadM]

Back to work until next week and next trip to the central Serbia

 

More foredeck details

 

Basement Cu foil 0,5x2x2mm

 

 

Brass wire 0,5mm

 

 

Left side done

 

 

Tomorrow next side

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited August 1, 2015 by Nenad

[ioannis]

Im still learning from you nice tips   .well done Nenad  Живели    

Edited August 1, 2015 by ioannis

[NenadM]

Wellcome Ioannis and thank you for nice words. Just playing around trying to reproduce something I saw here on MSW

[GLakie]

Nice touch with the copper plating below the eyebolts Nenad! 

[NenadM]

Thanks George

 

Going forward to fulfill foredeck

 

Another side done. Then I remember that somewhere I found another one. Digging through pictures, I found it, on Lou`s photos, right in front of cathead

 

 

On the place

 

 

Next

 

 

 

After several unsuccessful attempts, I decided to make them from one piece of wood, practicing carving

 

 

After painting

 

 

Another done

 

 

And then, one of them just - evaporated !!!

 

After nearly a full hour  of sniffing, searching, staring  .... I found it in my plan`s book, which was first thing I removed from table after suicide jump

 

Finally on place

 

 

 

Next - metal parts of windlass mechanism

 

 

Edited August 2, 2015 by Nenad

[GLakie]

That's a nice bit of carving Nenad. 

[mtaylor]

I'm with George.. very nicely carved.   You're doing some amazing work, my friend.

[NenadM]

Thank you George and Mark for kind words

 

For now, it seems to go right as I have imagined. Many of nice small details to switch attention

So, I am approaching to the end of fore deck contents, and pair of confusion questions bothered me

 

Aft deck first, or central deck. For now, I am thinking about aft deck, but not sure

 

On aft deck there are "some" dead-eyes, and  I am not ready for them jet. That dead-eyes have to be exactly the same as on main deck, and I am not sure will it be possible to mount them at all, particularly to mount them properly after mounting aft deck house. And not to forget pin rails on aft deck between dead eyes and aft deck house

 

 

 

So

 

All dead-eyes first ?

 

BTW, Marc

 

I carefully analyzed  Sven`s photos, and find my answer about fore entrance to aft deck house

 

 

Thank you again, Sven !!!!

Edited August 3, 2015 by Nenad

[keelhauled]

Hi Nenad,

Yep, they removed the buckets in front of the entrance when she got her new entrance.  

Great work on the forecastle!

 

I just mounted the lower aft dead eyes.  I have to admit that I used my "Captain's prerogative" and mounted them slightly higher than they are in reality.  I thought that they would really be a pain to rig, so I raised them just enough to give me access to the lower hole.  I agree about the deck house being in the way.  I pretty sure that I'm not going to mount the deck houses until the mast in front of each one is finished being rigged (going to rig bowsprit back in order).  I think that it will be hard to belay all of the sail rigging to the side rails across from the deck houses with the deck houses in place.

Edited August 3, 2015 by keelhauled

[baskerbosse]

Very nice detail work indeed!

[popeye the sailor]

very nice progress Nenad.........the bow is looking better with everything your adding to it 

[NenadM]

Thanks for nice words and support

 

Just testing ... Cu foil 0,5mm, toothpick and wire 0,5mm

 

 

 

 

 

Edited August 4, 2015 by Nenad

[popeye the sailor]

looks really cool Nenad! 

[mtaylor]

Wow...

[keelhauled]

Looks good!  paint and mount that windlass!

[NenadM]

Thinking about dead-eyes ... a LOT of questions

 

Here is table according to C-plans, and with recalculating to my scale

 

 

There are 132 of them in four sizes 6 1/2 " (16,5 cm) to 10" (24,4 cm)

Width is nearly half of diameter

 

In scale 1:100 , diameter is from 0,9 mm to 1,4 mm, which is impossible to do, so dead eyes have to be drastic enlarged

 

Another thing - if the biggest dead eye which corresponds to 10" diameter is 4 mm, the smallest which corresponds to 6 1/2" is 3 mm (ok 2,6 mm exactly). Is that difference visible and significant for me? Considering 3 rope lines going through and outside wire/rope line - I do not think so

 

Then I make visual test in Adobe ilustrator. As a first layer I put crop for  my 1:1 C-plans, and on second layer I marked dead eyes 4 mm dia

 

here is result

 

 

So what I concluded

 

Enormous job to make cca 150 dead eyes by hand, so I will try to find some laser cut option (I am very delighted by Chuck`s dead eyes, but long way to Serbia and very expensive costs to order from Syren or another over ocean supplier) 

 

If dead eyes are 4 mm in dia, space between is 4 mm, but I can count to 1mm dia of three holes, 

 

If dead eyes are 3 mm dia, space between is 6 mm, but holes can not be 1 mm, they has to be 0,5 mm which will be more harder for rigging

 

All depends about laser cuter in Belgrade

[baskerbosse]

That's some small deadeyes. 

Remember with laser cutting, if you make a hole, the hole will be slightly conical.
The entry hole will be slightly bigger than the exit hole.

 

In the end, I'd probably try drilling..

(-Or buying them :-) I think small boxwood deadeyes are about $4 for 20)

 

/Peter

[GLakie]

I'd have to agree with Peter Nenad. Maybe taking the plunge and buying those tiny blocks and deadeyes will save you a lot of time and frustration in the end. 

 

Cheers