Cutty Sark by Nenad

[NenadM]

Skylight done. Spice flow again

Edited December 13, 2015 by Nenad

[GLakie]

Looking good Nenad. 

[Omega1234]

Very nicely done, Nenad!

[Piet]

Oooooh yeah, that's really looking very good Nenad.  Sorry to hear about condition of mother in law.  Stay strong my friend.

 

Cheers,

[NenadM]

Looking good Nenad. 

 

Thank you George. Just thinking about to get "roof" of skylight a bit darker

 

 

Very nicely done, Nenad!

 

Thank you Patrick. Showing skylight to my twin-brother and his wife yesterday, I get my first "woooaaaaah"  

 

 

Oooooh yeah, that's really looking very good Nenad.  Sorry to hear about condition of mother in law.  Stay strong my friend.

 

Cheers,

 

Than you Piet. For now, everything is quite under control, adding temporary loosing sense for time of year ...

 

Thumbs up, Nenad for a job well done !   I like your skylight, as it makes your model impressive.

 

Montani semper liberi  Happy modeling

    Crackers  

 

Thank you very much for nice words. I saw somewhere very nice and very small compass, and I have some ideas to try ... obviously prolonging to make Her standing, because I do not want to make temporary stand, and woods I have I do not like to be final solution. On the other side, I added into her extra weight when I re-planked main deck, and that get me in the some kind of rebus ... Personally I like thin and elegant metal standing, but I am not sure this is applicable at all, considering bad quality of wood I used for keel (now covered with "coopering") and a lot gymnastics with Her that will come in future. It would be really bad to crack hull and keel somewhere in the middle of masting/rigging job

Edited December 13, 2015 by Nenad

[ScottRC]

The deck house looks great Nenad.  You doing this makes me feel more confident in scratch building the deck houses when I build my Seawitch. 

[michael mott]

Good to see that you resolved the skylights Nenad, Yes life's anniversaries do take us by surprise some days don't they.

 

Michael 

[NenadM]

The deck house looks great Nenad.  You doing this makes me feel more confident in scratch building the deck houses when I build my Seawitch. 

 

Thank you dear friend. There is no reason not to be confident The point is in patience. You can write with pencil by hand ? Thin lines exactly where you want? There is no reason  not to repeat this with top of scalpel. There is one difference - you use pencil last 10-20-30-40-50 years, and just "start" to use scalpel. Believe me, if you write with scalpel next 10-20-30-40-50 years often as with pencile, you can make wonders. So, patience and exercise.    

 

 

Good to see that you resolved the skylights Nenad, Yes life's anniversaries do take us by surprise some days don't they.

 

Michael 

 

 

Thanks for nice words Michael. Situation calmed down, new Hothead`s flat resolved, Princess have got her employment contract renewal, Old Lady ...  things go where it has to go, in time schedule which no one can know - up and down, and up and down, down and up ...  everything seems to be under control 

Edited December 13, 2015 by Nenad

[NenadM]

Keep on playing and prolonging with making standing for Her

 

Little analytic and thoughts about another details on aft deck. Not all of them are presented in today stage and on photos, but to me it seems that adding them can be sweet

 

 

Compass, Signal gun, two Harness Gasks for salt beef, Poop Bell, and Chimney

 

Considering to photos, it seems that on C-plans, compass is a bit out of scale

 

And obviously, I have to walk further on microsurgery road

 

In scale, Gun is only 10 mm long ?!?!?!?!?!? (Measured in AI)

 

 

And bell is .... just ... microscopic !

 

Maybe just to cannibalize still standing ( in bad condition) my old Jolly Roger ? 

Edited December 13, 2015 by Nenad

[mtaylor]

Those are some ambitious plans... I like it!!!!  I also know that no matter what you decide, you'll do a great job. 

 

I'm glad things have calmed down around there. 

[NenadM]

Thank you Mark. Your words turn me on  , but temporary attack from office turned me down  until end of working week 

 

I hope

 

Edited December 13, 2015 by Nenad

[popeye the sailor]

wonderful progress Nenad!   skylight windows came out really looking nice..........shaping up to be one sweet look'in lady!

[michael mott]

Hi Nenad

I was looking for some pictures for family and came across these they were taken in 2003 before the fire

 

A cover over the skylight

 

Tea in the main cabin

 

Judy steering us nowhere

 

 

Michael

[NenadM]

Thank you for photos, Michael. Do you have a picture of signal gun, maybe?

I found only two





On C-plans there are some differences ...



Gun is longer toward basement, downside of basement is curved, not all rigging bolts are on place now...

BTW ... I read many post discussing about gun rigging. But there is a big difference between fighting guns and signal guns. Do anybody has idea how and where signal gun was rigged and placed during sailing?

Edited December 13, 2015 by Nenad

[michael mott]

Hi Nenad, I do not have any other pictures except a couple inside where the figureheads were displayed.

 

Michael

[NenadM]

wonderful progress Nenad!   skylight windows came out really looking nice..........shaping up to be one sweet look'in lady!

 

If she will be sweet looking lady, she will fall in love and leave me with some vagabond who will take her to the sea .....

 

Thanks for your nice words Denis

 

 

Hi Nenad, I do not have any other pictures except a couple inside where the figureheads were displayed.

 

Michael

 

Eh, Michael, it is said " if man know where he will fall down, he would sit". How can you know long time ago that you will have friend who will be interested in details you could make a photo ? Thanks anyway

 

Some preparing for signal gun done in AI, and I am a bit frozen by dimensions, also challenged at the same time

 

Here is working sheet

 

 

Just for notice, if somebody will make Her in 1:50 or larger scale, there are some differences between C-plans and present stage, considering photos I marked with red lines

 

And there is a unknown part, presented on C-plans ( I marked it yellow) , not presented on photos. Do anybody know what is this ?

 

To repeat my question from upper post - how to rigg signal gun ?

Edited December 13, 2015 by Nenad

[GLakie]

That piece is called a "quoin" Nenad.  It is not generally rectangle in shape from the side view, but wedge-shaped at the side-view and rectangle-shaped from the top-view.  It is used for elevating the gun up or down by sliding it in or out from front to back. 

[mtaylor]

Nenad,

 

The piece you have marked as "C" is the quoin.  It's a wedge shaped block used to raise and lower the rear of the gun to make changes in elevation.  See the pictures.  This is of a 1:24 scale British 9 pdr, but the pieces are the same or similar.

 

 

 

As for rigging... stowed, probably like the pictures show.  Just ropes securing it eyebolts in the deck.  I really don't know on the Cutty Sark.   Here's a link that might help.  It's all I could find.    http://www.thegreenwichphantom.co.uk/2011/02/firing-the-one-oclock-cannon/

[NenadM]

Signal gun, ver #2

Ver #1 just dissapeared from table at half of road @#@##





Gun is made from toothpick in Dremell, basement is made from 1mm veneer, wheels from old rounded molding, cutted to 1,5 mm, glued with ca, and thined in width to scale after glue dry

For now, I think I'll just jump over bolt issue on gun basement. To be in scale, their outer dia has to be less than 1mm, and I think that is no point even to try. The thinnest solid wire I have is 0,5mm, and there is no way to pack ring and hole under 1mm. Bolts on decking at the roof on aft-deck house will be quite enough, with some ropes

Really small beast

Edited December 13, 2015 by Nenad

[Omega1234]

Love the teeny tiny cannon, Nenad!!!      

[NenadM]

Baby cannon ... When growns up, will be a serious war cannon, looking for a job on Victory Oh yes, first to spend some time in West Point or something simillar. Signal gun has no war use, and art of war must be learned first

Edited December 13, 2015 by Nenad

[NenadM]

Now, my stubborn personality comes to the point when really need some help/advice. I hope you could understand my Monkey-English trying to explain what torture me

 

As usual, older mistakes appears and bump in front of me

 

I learned one thing - it is not accidental that hull planking has it`s rules - at first - USE SOLID WOOD in long strips !!!!!

 

Me, genius, used soft wood - balsa, with short strips which meet on the rib

 

And now, when time for Her standing comes, I am in a swamp - again.

 

This is kind of standing I`d like

 

 

Most elegant, hide nothing. But, that kind of standing demands hard sturdy and solid base on hull/keel, which is not my case

 

I was "smart", and even I noticed that, during sanding after planking, even I noticed that I have thinned keel to 3mm (instead 4) and on some way, drown it under planks, I did - nothing. On later/same point of building, I was forced to reconstruct stern post and bow, and that was a right time to reconstruct keel also - to make something as a false keel, this time from solid hard wood.

 

But, I did not.

 

Consequence - now I had only 3 mm thick keel, drown under soft planks about 1-2 mm, so I am not sure if I apply this kind of standing, that keel will not crack. (keel is made from inexpensive plywood with dubious quality)

 

It all still looks fine, covered with my "coopering"

 

 

 

As it is not enough, I made second mistake - when reconstructing stern post and bow, I added a pair of millimeters here and there, so, there is no way to find exactly where are ribs now !!!!

 

Third mistake is - using very soft wood as balsa for first planking layer, so, after 1 kg of putty, now I have nice hull lines, covered with nice second planking layer an coopering, but with THIS crosssection

 

 

With another weakness on ribs where strips meet each other ( If I used long strips ...)

 

 

That opens main question

 

Obviously, I have to go on road with classical standing, something like this, with more or less artistic jostles

 

 

The best solution could be - if I can find ribs, in any way, and align stand with ribs, following curvature of stand by the ribs. But, without test holes, I do not think it can be done on any way. To admit, I am not in the mood to drill test holes. What to do with them after ?

 

Ok, if this is not possible, considering glue stand to hull is out of question, one possible solution is - use screws to fix it to hull over dome soft layer between.

 

But - If I do that, I know that manipulating with model ( on a long way run I still have to go) will transfer forces directly to screws. And, as you could see in my log, I am not quite patient and careful type of man. And at that point - arise "balsa question" - could "sandwich" of balsa, putty and veneer with empty space under, hold safe screws (even 8 of them), without possibility to damage and break balsa strips, planking and coopering ?

 

Maybe, to drill "test holes" or holes for screws and to fill somehow empty space under with something hard?

 

And - with what ? Long ago mixing alabaster and carpenter glue I have got sonethibg strong and hard...

 

Any idea ?

 

I`d be very very very thankful !!!

Edited December 14, 2015 by Nenad

[mtaylor]

Nenad,

 

I would go with the wooden stands that you show (pic "base.jpg").  It will be stronger and forces on the ship from movement or even a gentle breeze will more spread out.

[Burroak]

Beautiful job Nenad!

 

Greg H.

[Omega1234]

Hi Nennad

 

I reckon Mark's right about the base.jog choice. It would certainly give the hull the most support.

 

My thoughts only, of course.

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

[NenadM]

Nenad,

 

I would go with the wooden stands that you show (pic "base.jpg").  It will be stronger and forces on the ship from movement or even a gentle breeze will more spread out.

 

 

Thank you Mark for fast answer. I am close to that solution, but I feel I need some extra time to shake and jumble my poor head a bit more. Who know what else can drop out ? 

 

 

Beautiful job Nenad!

 

Greg H.

 

Wellcome Greg, and thank you for your nice words ! It is nice to see another person who likes your mumble-jumble attempts and playing 

 

 

Hi Nennad

 

I reckon Mark's right about the base.jog choice. It would certainly give the hull the most support.

 

My thoughts only, of course.

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

 

Hello Patrick. I have read somewhere about stands it is important not to lean keel to stand, but to lean hull, even better if you can use something soft as layer between

Edited January 30, 2016 by Nenad

[CaptainSteve]

Nenad,

 

I considered many different kinds of stands when building the Launch. If you are still worried about using the base.jpg stand, then may I suggest something like these for you to consider.

 

(These photos were from a build by DGBot, as I recall, for the 2013 Manitowac competition.)

 

If structural integrity is an issue, then a stand with water-line cut-out for your Cutty to sit in, may be a possible solution to your problem. 

Edited December 15, 2015 by CaptainSteve

[NenadM]

Nenad,

 

I considered many different kinds of stands when building the Launch. If you are still worried about using the base.jpg stand, then may I suggest something like these for you to consider.

 

Launch1.jpgLaunch2.jpg

(These photos were from a build by DGBot, as I recall, for the 2013 Manitowac competition.)

 

If structural integrity is an issue, then a stand with water-line cut-out for your Cutty to sit in, may be a possible solution to your problem. 

 

Hello Cap, thanks for your quick response

 

Ah, diorama issue ... it can be solution, theoretically, but my concept is quite different - I want bow and stern with rudder to be seen, with all sails wide spread 

 

I have to admit that your idea is very likely, and that might have diabolical look ... imagine boiled sea with foam on waves an in air, leaning sailboat running somewhere at full speed, traces after him in waves, unfortunately during strong winds are not all sails open , wild waves breaking on hull spraying on deck, some torn sails and unattached ropes flapping wild in the wind, and  with adequate lighting under glass cage ... and  model more than 3 ft long and almost 2 ft high ..... Whoa !!!

 

But ... I have zero experience with dioramas

 

Maybe in next life or with next model

 

Thanks again

Edited January 30, 2016 by Nenad

[NenadM]

Going to meet final solution for standing, I made some test - drawings

 

First, I found my old CS plans, and copied curvature from adequate ribs, draw something by them, scanned it, import on Adobe Ilustrator as background, and start drawing over them on new layer

 

Here is how far I got - just preliminary drawing

 

 

Red marks are for future screws, toward hull - screws for wood, down - I plan to take mechanical screws 

 

Main idea is to fix standing in upper part to hull permanent, and to fix standing in lower part temporary for some massive panel board, thinking how to get it easy to replace that board with final board when Her Glass Cage will be done. Yes, invisible masked screw covered by veneer, with unscrew from down side.

 

I think it will be nice to put "Star of India" on outside panels of standing

 

Maybe there will be some additional carvings and relief around "Star". Maybe.

 

Maybe I`ll just paint standing black as hull, and add some "golden"  ornaments, similar to ornaments on bow and stern

 

have to think about a while

Edited December 18, 2015 by Nenad

[capnharv2]

Looks good Nenad.

 

One suggestion-if you can, make the vertical parts of the stand shorter, so the model sits closer to the ground. I find that longer stand supports tend to make the model easy to fall over (especially with the spars and rigging you'll be adding).

 

Just a thought.

 

Thanks,

 

Harvey