Byrne's saw accessories question..

[CPDDET]

Got my income tax refund and will be purchasing a Byrne's saw.

 

Which accessories are worth purchasing with it?

 

Dave

[Charles Green]

CPDDET:

 

I just got the sliding table top - worth it, especially for identical length parts with angled cuts.

 

Other accessories I've had for some time - all useful:

Extended Rip Fence

Rip Taper Gage

Micrometer Stop - The saws precision makes micrometer adjustments of the rip fence possible.

Zero Clearance Throat Plate

Blade Adapters - Use any blade up to four inch with any size hole up to one inch.  Tell Jim what you want.

Accessory Pack

Blades - Figure out your needs and get replacements.

Extra Drive Belt - I've got one, never needed it but I like having it around.

 

The miter gage with adjustable extension is new to me.  Mine is the old style - longer but not adjustable.  The extra length has always been helpful.  

 

[Bob Cleek]

All of those accessories above are very useful. I'd urge anyone to get them all at the time you buy the saw. I expect you'd save a good bit of money on shipping charges if it were all shipped together. The sliding table may seem like a chunk of money, and it is, but it's really worth it. You can build your own, but if you want to replicate the accuracy the saw is capable of with a sliding table, get the factory-made one. It's a beautiful piece of machining, too. 

[CPDDET]

And what about saw blades for scratch building?

Since the saw comes with a  24 tooth, 4 inch blade I thought I would stick with the 4inch size and order the 36 tooth as well as the 100 tooth slitting blade which is recommended for use with tilt table.

 

Are 3inch blades really needed at all?

Is a 36 tooth blade needed or will the 24 tooth suffice for all cutting?

 

Obviously I have no experience / knowledge of saw blades. 

 

Dave

[Bob Cleek]

See the sticky post at the top of this forum section. It will answer all your saw blade questions. Jim Byrnes can tell you which blades you'll need depending upon what you plan to do with the saw. 

 

 

[CPDDET]

Thanks Bob!

[jimbyr]

Dave

 

If you're buying sheet stock anywhere from 1/32 to 3/8" the 3" .03 kerf slitting blade is the one you'll use most.  

 

regards

Jim

[CPDDET]

That would cover just about anything I currently use.

Would it handle 1/64 birch aircraft ply as well?

 

Dave

[jimbyr]

easily

[shipphotographer.com]

 

 

[kurtvd19]

On 7/19/2020 at 1:57 PM, CPDDET said:

Would it handle 1/64 birch aircraft ply as well?

 

We did an addition several years ago and I cut all the 3/4" Oak trim for the windows, the Oak baseboards and Oak door trim with my Byrnes saw.  It's a lot easier to carry from room to room than constantly walking to use a chop saw or table saw.  Never even slows down going through 3/4 inch Oak.

 

[BobG]

Great video of the Byrnes table saw, Olha. Thanks!

[No Idea]

35 minutes ago, BobG said:

Great video of the Byrnes table saw, Olha. Thanks!

It is but just don’t follow her technique as it’s dangerous. Lots of kick backs due to pushing the wrong side of the work piece and using the fence and mitre together.  Get a good book on table saw practice as these little machines are quite powerful for their size 

[BobG]

1 hour ago, No Idea said:

It is but just don’t follow her technique as it’s dangerous.

Thanks, No Idea. I have no knowledge about using a table saw. I just liked seeing it in action. This hope to buy this saw fairly soon but I'll need to study up on safe usage.

[Jaager]

As for the kickback problem when the product slice is between the blade and the fence,  I am of a thought that a GRR-RIPER type hold down with a push barrier at the back end would block any kickback.  The pusher part would get a bit mauled, but if attached to the hold down, it would not go anywhere.  It may take practice to figure out how to push work thru correctly when it is blocked from view by the safety tools.

[bridgman]

Video is a nice demonstration of Brynes saw capabilities but NOT a how to! Missed 

numerous set up steps and normal safety precautions that should be used with

any table saw. Was nice to see workings of the Byrnes saw.

Bridgman 

bob

[mtaylor]

9 hours ago, No Idea said:

It is but just don’t follow her technique as it’s dangerous. Lots of kick backs due to pushing the wrong side of the work piece and using the fence and mitre together.  Get a good book on table saw practice as these little machines are quite powerful for their size 

It looks to me like the kickback is way she's feeding the wood... pressing down and towards the fence which deflects the rear of the blade.  I get the same result doing it that way.  When pushing from the entry point (pushstick!) no kick back with minimal side force.  Or, one can adjust the exit side of the fence away from the blade slightly.   I also have short fence (length) attachment to my fence that basically ends up releasing the wood as soon as it's cut. The rear edge of the fence is aligned with the front of the blade and then forwards towards the exit just a "scoosh".  Scoosh = very small amount.

[No Idea]

To prevent this type of kick back when cutting thin planks you still need to push the wood on the thin side. This stops the wood from turning in toward the blade which is dangerous. All you need Is a sacrificial push stick that passes over the blade and carries the thin piece through. Use a nice big piece to keep your fingers well clear of the blade 

[Rik Thistle]

Slightly off topic, but Olha Batchvarov's prize winning model of Nelson's HMS Victory is quite stunning ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6O6uBV0uThk ...as is the black background photography towards the end of the video.

 

As a newcomer it was so impressive to see whilst at the same time a bit intimidating. However, in the Comments below the video she reveals it took her 4 1/2 yrs to build, so maybe....

 

Richard

[JpR62]

Very interesting topic on how to secure a cut.

As the new owner of a Byrnes table saw, I too have been subjected to these kick back effects.

Novice in the matter, I learn by trial and error to avoid them.

If an experienced user, could illustrate the correct way to do this using step by step photos  or a video, I think more than one of us would benefit from it ...

Apart from that, the work of Olha Batchvarov is absolutely remarkable and her youtube channel very informative. It is a pleasure to read his posts in this forum.

[Ryland Craze]

3 hours ago, JpR62 said:

As the new owner of a Byrnes table saw, I too have been subjected to these kick back effects.

Novice in the matter, I learn by trial and error to avoid them.

If an experienced user, could illustrate the correct way to do this using step by step photos  or a video, I think more than one of us would benefit from it ...

I would definitely learn from a how-to tutorial on the use of a Byrnes or other make table saw.  I have learned a lot from reading the above comments.

 

And Olha is a very gifted and talented ship model builder.  I enjoy seeing her amazing work and I am glad she is sharing it with us.

[shipphotographer.com]

Just don't look at my style!

Before that, I used to work on less powerful table saws - which can not cut hornbeam or oak. 

Unlike this one - which does it like a hot knife butter! This table saw has a very high speed - hence the problem with recoil - I used a work stick when cutting thin boards. For now, I haven't found a better method to avoid kickback!

[RichardG]

1 hour ago, Ryland Craze said:

I would definitely learn from a how-to tutorial on the use of a Byrnes or other make table saw.  I have learned a lot from reading the above comments.

I have a 10" table saw which I seem to do ok with (no fingers lost). I ordered a Byrnes saw a few days ago. A detailed tutorial would be a good resource from both from a safety and precision perspective. 

[Bob Cleek]

Micro-saws like the Byrnes saw, being smaller, are, I suppose, in theory at least, less dangerous than full sized table saws, but only by degrees of magnitude. Beyond that, I'd go so far as to say the smaller saws are even more likely to cause injury, albeit less massive injury, because they pose exactly the same risk of injury occurring as the full sized saws, but, being smaller, they invite operator error more readily. It's easy to pontificate about power tool safety and that tends to go in one ear and out the other. They say the table saw is the most dangerous power tool, but that's only because there are more of them and this leads completely inexperienced people to attempt to operate them relying solely upon their intuition. "You simply plug it in, turn it on, and feed the wood into the blade. What could be easier? What could possibly go wrong?"

 

Ninety-nine percent of table saw injuries are caused by operator error. These machines don't just jump up and bite you. If you are "experiencing kick-back effects," it's not the saw's fault. It's your fault because you aren't using the tool correctly. (Don't ask me how I know this.) That's as close as I'll get to a safety lecture here, but I can't stifle myself when I hear comments like "I just bought my first table saw and..." followed by a description of a problem that is directly ascribable to extremely dangerous improper operation of the machine. 

 

Please don't mess with any power tool and especially a table saw of any size without getting proper training in its use and particularly in all safety procedures unique to that particular tool. We've all heard Norm Abrams go through his little "safety mantra" on TV ("... and remember this, always wear these: safety glasses.") and then watched him operate his table saw, reaching over the blade and sawing without using push sticks or guards in place. "Lucky Norm" still has all his fingers, but I've got at least four professional woodworker friends who don't.

 

To answer the question,"Does anybody know where there's a good tutorial?" hey, YouTube is your friend. Just watch as many table saw safety and how-to-use videos as you can. You'll find something useful in every one of them. Follow the instructions and you will avoid injury and produce much better work, as well.  https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+use+a+table+saw

 

 

 

[CPDDET]

While I have owned a radial arm saw many years ago, I've never owned or operated a table saw.

 

Seems to me my Byrne's saw is just a smaller version of the full size machine so the same techniques and safety rules apply.

 

While waiting for delivery of the saw I decided to purchase the following and get some education.

 

https://m.barnesandnoble.com/w/tauntons-complete-illustrated-guide-to-tablesaws-paul-anthony/1103185359

[No Idea]

Bob spot on - Tools are only as safe as the user and their experience.  Whilst experience has to be earned, knowledge can be gained through YouTube and many other places. In the demo above she is using a soft wood which is pretty forgiving when you get things wrong.  A hard wood on the other hand is far less forgiving but this should not put anyone off.  Get reading and watching and then put some time in on the table saw.  You'll get it in no time and the results are worth the learning. 

[RichardG]

I find being terrified of the saw helps. 

[gjdale]

I’ve been watching a series of YouTube tutorials on machining with lathe and mill by Blondiehacks, recommended by someone else here (Greg Herbert (DVM) if I recall correctly). As well as being excellent tutorials, she has a great mantra around safety. She often says something along the lines of “always remember, these machines are actively trying to murder you - don’t let them!” Good advice me thinks!

[Charles Green]

Take a look at your set-up before the cut.  If the cut-off end will be trapped between the blade and fence, expect kick back.

[glbarlow]

On 8/6/2020 at 9:51 PM, mtaylor said:

adjust the exit side of the fence away from the blade slightly

This is all it takes to prevent kickbacks in my experience, that and a side block to keep it tight to the side and a push stick to move it past the blade.