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If you search the Internet for images of POB II, you'll see that her decking is dark reddish-brown. I don't know what kind of wood is used on the real ship (you can probably find that online somewhere, too), but if you are gunning for authenticity, then a dark stain such as red mahogany would be in order. Personally, I don't care for dark-colored decks on models and would be tempted to replace basswood deck strips with something like holly, but again that's a personal preference.

Chris Coyle
Greer, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Hawker Hurricane

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It can also be treated using shoe polish, there are a wide variety of shades.

Completed.... Charles W. Morgan,Sea Horse,USS Constitution,Virginia 1819,San Fransisco II, AL HMS Bounty 1:48

L'Herminione 1:96

Spanish Frigate,22 cannons 18th C. 1:35 scale.Scratch-built (Hull only)

Cutter Cheefull 1806 1:48 (with modifications)

 

Current Project: Orca (This is a 35" replica of the Orca boat from the movie Jaws)

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OK, this is replica, but I think dark decks, at least for ships built in non-tropical areas, are quite unusual and often a sign of poor maintenance. Most decks are made from some sort of pine or perhaps teak. If not 'holy-stoned' regularly, the wood will attain a sort of greyish colour the older it gets.

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

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43 minutes ago, wefalck said:

If not 'holy-stoned' regularly, the wood will attain a sort of greyish colour the older it gets.

And that is what one sees, for example, in pictures of Star of India before she recently got her decking replaced. Prior to that, her deck was a muted grayish-tan.

Chris Coyle
Greer, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Hawker Hurricane

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8 hours ago, ccoyle said:

a dark stain such as red mahogany

If the deck is Basswood, a stain rather than a dye would be suitable.  But,  placing aside the inappropriate original red species on a working vessel -  (perhaps it is supposed to be a showboat luxury yacht. for which it would be OK)  -  as a model -  the red should be a hint in its intensity  -  that is -  dilute the stain - a lot - before applying it.  Make it sort of red, rather than bop your nose red.

 

 

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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This may, or may not, be obvious, but in the off chance it isn't, do a bunch of tests to determine what effect you will get from any stain. Use decking scraps. You can always darken stains, but you can't lighten them. If you are going to get an effect you don't want, better to get it on a piece of scrap wood than on the deck of a model!

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