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Palamos by DrDeathproof - OcCre - Scale 1:45


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Although I had started a couple of other kits, they had to put aside because reasons. So I'm concentrating on this kit and I'm going to try to see it through to the end.

 

I like Occre products a lot. The full color photos and quality of parts is excellent.

 

I could probably go a little further with this tonight but I'm hoping to get some feedback on my progress so far, in case anything needs to be fixed/adjusted before I do anything else.

 

 

Instructions can be viewed here: Palamos instructions

 

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

 

 

 

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This was a point where I wasn't sure how to proceed. According to the instructions:

 

11. The false keel in the bow area will have to be reduced until it is approximately 2 mm wide.

 

12. You must also obtain a width of 2 mm in the stern area of the false keel.

 

Did I succeed? Do I need to sand this down more? I have no idea.

 

 

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Stumbling block #2

 

13. Line one side of each of the bulwarks (no. 18) using the lining (no. 19). For this operation use contact adhesive.

 

I have no idea how to identify how to identify the lining for the bulwarks. The size of the wood strips for the bulwarks is the same as the the boards used for the deck. The deck boards are "sapelli" color, which is the darker, so I'm guessing the "sycamore" colored strips are the ones I needed to use.

 

 

 

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Missing a small chip there. I can probably trim a piece down that will fit.

 

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A little frustrating but I'm doing my best to work through it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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You are off!
Nice start.
Question: When you glued the bulkheads in place did you use a square, in order to them all angled correctly? It will help in the long run.
Now the planking you are about to do, make sure to soak them. They look fragile and it won't take much to break them.
Soak them put in place but don't glue, they will take shape and will spring back a little once dried. Make sure they are completely dried before removing them from the hull-skeleton.

Before any planking. Put a plank over three - four bulkheads don't bend to much. Take a look how they are touching the bulkheads. The planks need to have as good as 100% contact surface.
Fairing the bulkheads are essential.

Looking forward to your next step. 

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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4 minutes ago, Nirvana said:

You are off!
Nice start.
Question: When you glued the bulkheads in place did you use a square, in order to them all angled correctly? It will help in the long run.
Now the planking you are about to do, make sure to soak them. They look fragile and it won't take much to break them.
Soak them put in place but don't glue, they will take shape and will spring back a little once dried. Make sure they are completely dried before removing them from the hull-skeleton.

Before any planking. Put a plank over three - four bulkheads don't bend to much. Take a look how they are touching the bulkheads. The planks need to have as good as 100% contact surface.
Fairing the bulkheads are essential.

Looking forward to your next step. 

 

Unfortunately, no - all I have is a ruler.

 

Thanks for the advice - I'll give it a shot. After my experience trying to do the Carmen II I am NOT looking forwarding to the side planks. But if I can get them looking decent, once I'm past that part I think the rest should be relatively easy.

 

I'll report back probably tomorrow with regard to the bulwarks and maybe try to get some of the planking in place.

 

One question: how long do you soak the wood for? I've seen people suggest anywhere from 10 - 20 minutes.

 

 

 

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Lego bricks are also very useful to get squared and plumbed bulkhead towards the false keel, or use balsablock inserted which will help as well. Look into my start of Syren.
Minimum of 10 to 20 minutes for soaking, use as warm water as possible that your fingers/hand can handle.

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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Looking good! I like the kit. Definitely fair the ribs well. In my first build I didn’t pay enough attention to the fairing and it made planking harder. For my Polaris build I did and planking was much smoother. I would lay one of the thin strips across the ribs to ensure they conform fully. 

User: Havelock

Build Logs -> Current: Taurus-MS-1:64  -> Completed: Polaris-OcCre-1:50

Stash:  18th Century Longboat-MS-1:48

 

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