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Byrnes Sander or saw, that is the Question?


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I search with a spotlight though all posting regarding Byrnes machines to see if this question had risen before.
I have the thickness sander that I use occasionally, I also have a Proxxon table saw (model older, but with variable speed).
I like to invest in both at the same time but the account won't allow it, nor the Admiral.

Which one to buy first? To me it seems that the saw is more mentioned in this area than the sander.

Just curious as I almost have answered my own question.

 

 

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Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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I use the sander to mill to final dimension,  the stock that the saws will process.

 

For POF -  lumber - big bandsaw -  thickness sander - scroll cutting saw - disc sander - drum sander - hand tools -  for frames

                 lumber - big bandsaw -  thickness sander - 4" tablesaw - disc sander - hand tools  - for planking  and furniture.

 

Given your - Current:   I do not see where a thickness sander would serve you.   For planking and furniture - the volume used places a Byrnes tablesaw within the place of being practical for generating dimension stock from a 3/4" plank.   A 2-4 foot long board wider than 6 inches would be no fun.   At a large scale 1:48  - a stock plank that is 1 foot long is 48 feet in scale.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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32 minutes ago, Jaager said:

I use the sander to mill to final dimension,  the stock that the saws will process.

 

For POF -  lumber - big bandsaw -  thickness sander - scroll cutting saw - disc sander - drum sander - hand tools -  for frames

                 lumber - big bandsaw -  thickness sander - 4" tablesaw - disc sander - hand tools  - for planking  and furniture.

 

Given your - Current:   I do not see where a thickness sander would serve you.   For planking and furniture - the volume used places a Byrnes tablesaw within the place of being practical for generating dimension stock from a 3/4" plank.   A 2-4 foot long board wider than 6 inches would be no fun.   At a large scale 1:48  - a stock plank that is 1 foot long is 48 feet in scale.

Jaager,
I bought the thickness sander used (very little) for a very low sum only two digit and below 50. And a Proxxon table saw I got for free, but not as accurate as Byrnes. A friend has one.

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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I have both, the Byrnes saw is used routinely and often, the sander only occasionally.  The Byrnes saw should be the first power tool every modeler owns without question. 

Regards,

Glenn

 

Current Build: HMS Winchelsea
Completed Builds: HM Flirt (paused) HM Cutter CheerfulLady NelsonAmati HMS Vanguard,  
HMS Pegasus, Fair American, HM Granado, HM Pickle, AVS, Pride of Baltimore, Bluenose

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If you didn’t already have a saw, I’d say go for the saw, but as you have a Proxxon one that can do the same function (albeit not as nicely), then perhaps the disc sander would be higher priority as it fills a gap in your arsenal? To be honest, I’d say the disc sander is probably the most used of the power tools for me.

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I did not catch that you already have a thickness sander in reading your question.  I was not questioning or criticizing your present setup.

 

The Byrnes thickness sander is a solid, precise, stable machine.  The medium is easy to renew.  My only criticism is for the strength of the spring holding the depth wheel.  I jury rigged a fix.  For its function, there is no peer,  or even close.

The Byrnes tablesaw.  Nothing else comes close.  It will probably require tech with a near zero kerf ray with no charring to replace it.  Or a neutronium wire.

The Byrnes disc sander  -  powerful,  the dust extraction is excellent,  I sand to a pattern line, but I have every confidence that miter gauge is accurate.  No plastic is sanded here, so speed control is not needed.

 

The ideal choice is all three.  If you must choose one,  odds on,  the tablesaw is number one,  once you have a hull to plank.   It does not come into play for framing, though.

Framing - the disc sander is minor, but vital.

Processing commercial lumber - the thickness sander   -   but a big powerful bandsaw stands ahead of it.

 

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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I wrote an email to Byrnes Machines, and had an answer regarding the motors in less than then minutes.
The motors are not able to change for variable speed, this as they are capacitor start motors.

I talked to my friend who has the sander and saw, he also said "Go for the saw". 
Which gives me a great idea. I buy the saw since it's more expensive with some accessories and put the sander on the christmas tree list.
This way I will have both and less growling about a more expensive christmas gift.
 

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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4 hours ago, gjdale said:

To be honest, I’d say the disc sander is probably the most used of the power tools for me.

I was surprised how much I started to use this once I had one.

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To anticipate the next question

accessories:

Unless you have a specific need for beveled planks,  the tilting table  will probably have the least use vs expenditure value.

You can make do with either a metric or standard stop.   Wonderful would be a digital readout  like my caliper - fraction/digital/metric - fine marks and age rigid lenses make for a hard of seeing situation.

The sliding table is elegant.  A homemade version that performs the function is not difficult to make, but this one is well made and the specs are in excess of our needs.  For short piece cutting, a homemade version with a short table on one side would save having to remove the fence.

Jim has custom fabricated an oversized table for some members here.  He needs the body to fit it,  so if you work really oversized stock,  this may be an option to discuss when an order is placed.

Most of the rest are not expensive and are generally of the better to have and not need category.

One blade company that we use has gone away recently, so for blades, more variety is better and a backup for the ones that are really used a lot.  This works if CYA is your way. 

The key concept for blades is that the number of teeth on the blade appropriate to use is inversely proportional to the thickness of the stock being cut.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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Jaager, thank you for the input. It's highly appreciated.

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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11 hours ago, Nirvana said:

Which gives me a great idea. I buy the saw since it's more expensive with some accessories and put the sander on the christmas tree list.
This way I will have both and less growling about a more expensive christmas gift.

Love your thinking Per! 👍

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On 8/9/2020 at 4:39 PM, Nirvana said:

Which gives me a great idea. I buy the saw since it's more expensive with some accessories and put the sander on the christmas tree list.
This way I will have both and less growling about a more expensive christmas gift.
 

I'm with Grant... this is a great plan.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

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CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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On 8/9/2020 at 10:48 PM, Jaager said:

One blade company that we use has gone away recently, so for blades, more variety is better and a backup for the ones that are really used a lot. 

Malco is an excellent source for blades, although they do require a minimum $100 order..

Luck is just another word for good preparation.

—MICHAEL ROSE

Current builds:    Rattlesnake (Scratch From MS Plans 

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

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