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A small cog c. 1410 by Brinkman - FINISHED - scale 1:20


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Thanks you for the comments! The ropemaking machine is a really simple build and looks like this on the inside. The red goo is grease.

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I regretfully got rid of my childhood lego a long time ago and bougth most of this at a fleemarket (they had a big bag for $30 and I just took what I wanted and gave back the rest, the money went to a cat shelter so it was ok) and got some parts from a friend.

 

You can nowerdays buy just the parts you want from some vendors and I could make a partlist if someone wants it.

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It now has a mast. I have spliced rope before, but never this much! Every end is spliced and even the lanyards connecting the hearts are spliced.

 

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The frontstay is of sligthly thicker rope than the backstays as it is a single rope, but the backstays take up a lot of more force. 

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I don't know how I will do with these lanyards in the end, but I know that I will adjust them many times before this is over so I will fasten them like this for now.

 

I know that  the "modern" way of fastening hearts is like this

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but I used splicing with a single seizing instead as I think it looked simpler even if it isn't.

 

 

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Thank you for the likes and comments!

 

The yard is in place.

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I thougth of a couple of different ways of attaching a block for the halyard at the mast top and decided to rebuild

 

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The blocks for the braces are based on finds from a similar ship to mine

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The aft deck is getting quite busy now

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Now on to the lifting boom.

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Thank you for asking that Steven! From the start I thought that I didn't need shrouds as the mast is very stable athwartships. But your question forced me to think about it again and now I see that when the lifting boom turns sideways it will try to overturn the mast around point A in the sketch.

 

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F1 is the load on the boom

F2 is the resulting force as the boom is attached there by tackle.

F3 is the force made by the mass of mast, yard and sail.

 

When calculating tourqe I see that the mass of the mast actually is enough to resist it from turning over. And the stays will provide safety margin to keep it safe.

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The lifting boom is in place.

 

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It has integrated sheaves as per this image.

 

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The two blocks basically are single blocks combined with a heart. One of them is hung from the masttop and the other has a simple S hook.

 

It has a simple step to keep it in place and simple belaying points.

 

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Yearlier I mentioned the front bulkhead having removable planks. Here we see just the first plank in place so the boom gets better reach.

 

This ship should have cargo to look complete and I started making barrels. I really like the method I see on this forum where you use a tablesaw to make wedges that you turn barrel shaped. But I don't have the space for a table saw nor a wood turner.


So I used a method I saw on pinterest where you make a cylindrical core with a spacer and
bend planks around it.

 

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The hoops are made from this brush I picked up from a charity shop.

 

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The master inspects the first batch of barrels. Now lets do thirty more.

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The barrels are of the standardized hanseatic league size for transporting herring.

 

Edited by silverman834
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Beautiful work, Silverman! Not only the barrels (which are superb - I especially like the hoops made from (millet?) broom bristles), but also that amazing winch. It really makes the vessel come alive!

 

Are you planning to put any people on board?

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Thank you all!

 

Yes, I would like to add people. At least I don't have to do 50 of them ;-).  But I'm not sure of how. Either I could aim for something "symbolic", something like my cardboard cutouts but in 3D just to provide a sense of scale. Or I could do something more realistic. But I don't know how to do the clothing. Let's say that I found good poseable figures, then I could either cloth them by sculpting in clay; this would give the best results but I'm really bad at sculpting. Or I could sew. That I can do, but I really don't like the way many figures in this scale loo with sewn clothing as the clothing all look so oversized.

 

There must be similar forums like this for serious dollhouse builders and perhaps they have good methods I should look into.

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Have a look here: 

 and following pages where Siggi explains how he made the figures from brass sheet and copper wire, and clothes from rice paper. Your ship is 2.5 times the scale and this technique might not work for you - but then again maybe it would!

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26 minutes ago, bigpetr said:

From what material were hoops on real barrels?

 

Usually made out of thin willow branches (or wands), split lengthways in half.

Wine Barrel Willow Hoop 4 per order | Etsy in 2020 | Wine barrel, Barrel,  Oak barrel

 

Nice and flexible, also used in such things as baskets and wattling (making 'woven" fences - or combined with mud to make "wattle and daub"  walls for houses).

 

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On 11/10/2020 at 3:04 PM, bigpetr said:

Beautifful barrels. From what material were hoops on real barrels?  Because of my ignorance I thought only metal was used for that.

Metal hoops on barrels only really became standard in the very late 1800's with industrialization and increased iron production. They existed before, but weren't very common. More common on heavily reused things like buckets, though even then it wasn't that common.

 

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Hazel or willow hoops on a barrel during the American Civil War (All barrels I've seen on pictures from the period have hazel/willow hoops)

 

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Barrel from a 16th century Spanish or French Shipwreck, I believe.

 

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Cooper Niclas Putner from the 1425 Mendel Hausbach

 

 

Alberto - "Binho"

 

Current Build: Dusek 1:72 Scale Longship

Digital Shipyard: Viking-era ships and boats

 

3D Art: Artstation, Sketchfab

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Thank you @Louie da fly and @Binho for the images of barrels, I didn't know willow hoops were used for that long!

 

When I in my post two weeks ago said that I would make 30 more barrels, ie. 33 barrels in total, it was just a rough number. But it turned out to be the exact number I needed to fill the hold.

 

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Some barrels turned out worse than others and I marked 15 of them with an X in the ends to make sure that I use them in the bottom layer where they hardly will be seen.

 

I consider the barrels the main cargo but will also make some auxiliary to be stowed elsewhere.

 

My father sailed a lot when he was younger and was a conscript in the swedish navy and when we discussed the ship he only objected to the forestay. He thought it looked too weak to have it fastened in the end of the bowsprit. And I agree so you can see it has moved backwards. And that means I'm back to not really understanding why I have a bowsprit at all. But otherwise he liked the ship which makes me happy.

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Really nice looking barrels. All of them.

 

I think your father is right. Tying the forestay to the end of the bowsprit puts a lot of strain to where it is attached to the bow.

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38 minutes ago, Jim Lad said:

She really looks the part with all those barrels stowed in the hold.

 

I hope you're going to tie them down :D - otherwise they'll come loose and roll her over . . :(

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I love those barrels.  I will need to review that part of the log and practice some.

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, John Smith Shallop
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch 1/4 scale-Model Shipways plans)

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