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 I'm very excited about joining this project and realize I'm a bit of a Johnny come lately here, but will do my best to catch up without rushing. 

 

Ordered up the plans today, which have already shipped and should arrive Wednesday.  

Ordered 12 sheets of 1/4"x12x24 Plywood which should arrive on Thursday.  Bought plenty of extra plywood and ordered 3 copies of the false keel, so plenty of room for mistakes. 

The last major task for this week is to find a nice scroll saw.  I had a cheap variable speed years ago that slowly ramped up the speed to max the longer it was used, so I never got very good with it.  Time to hit the reset button.  

 

I'm going to use this as an opportunity to start milling my own strips as well, but will hold off on that for a little bit.  It's probably going to take a couple weeks before I really get going as I work through my current build, so targeting late September for having the bulkheads assembled and faired.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks Rusty/Chuck.  

 

I've been working my way all too fast through my Phantom build as I try to brush the rust off and am really eager to get going on the Winnie.  One of the reasons I got into this hobby in the first place was that I'm an extremely impatient person by nature and it forces you to slow down, accept mistakes and/or go back to the drawing board.  I'm entering the rigging phase, so I can start thinking about the Winnie.  I've been acquiring everything I'll need for the foreseeable future, so am (hopefully) set for about the next year from a materials standpoint.  

 

Been playing a bit with Alaskan Yellow Cedar to get an idea of how it's going to be to work with and really like this wood quite a bit.  The only negative I've seen with it is that it does get a bit "hairy" on crosscuts, but even acrylic medium stiffens it up enough to clean up with a knife or sandpaper.  It's so much more versatile than basswood for around the same price and I happen to like the smell of it, so there's a bonus.  

 

I've been able to budget for a scrollsaw and table saw to take on this project; a scrollsaw and plywood were cheaper than ordering the bulkheads pre-cut so a bit of a no brainer. 

 

The WEN 3921 scrollsaw appears to be well reviewed if you are mainly using outside cuts, so even though Amazon is a bit on the slow side these days, it did show up last week.    Only took about 10 minutes to adjust and get it ready to go today.  12 sheets of  1/4" plywood and all bulkheads printed out.  My biggest concern is having not used a scrollsaw in nearly 15 years and the last thing I want to do is jump in and make a mess of it.  I discovered a folder I had with printouts of the bulkheads for Clay Feldmans Lexington.  As it's so much smaller, I'm hoping only a sheet or two of plywood will be needed to work out the kinks.  It will be a great learning tool to get comfortable with the scroll saw.  

 

By this time next week I'm hoping to have looked through everyones build logs here and start showing progress of my own.  

 

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Hey Greg

Welcome aboard.  That's the same saw that I used for my bulkheads and other stuff.  It works pretty good and I have had no issues.  Make your cuts just outside the lines of your patterns and then sand down to the lines.  It takes a little longer but the way it all fits together makes it well worth the time.

Good luck and I look forward to your progress.  

Steve

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Well enjoy the project but remember this is a much more complex build than Phantom.  Try and slow down alot.  There are so many things to consider carefully that could have a serious negative effect if you rush through it because of impatience.  Measure twice.....and then measure again.  
 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Chuck, that's great advice and I keep coming back to it.  So much of this hobby is dealing with the unexpected, we shouldn't invite it upon ourselves. 

 

Thanks Capt Morgan; I finally got a chance to use the saw today and for the price, it's a great little saw.  I haven't done much yet other than to cut all the templates into individual bulkheads and pieces.  It was enough to get comfortable with saw.

 

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Right before I started to clean up, I decided to start with parts 29 as it allows for a near unlimited number of redoes with scrap wood.  I'm finding the hardest thing is to not cut on the line but to cut just outside it.  My first attempt on the right, second on the left. It's going to take some adjustment on my part, but it will come. Half tempted to take a red pencil just outside the lines to give something to target.

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Hi Greg

 

May I offer a few thoughts about cutting your own bulkheads/bulkhead former?

 

First, it is the cutting out of slots in the bulkheads that really matters. A little bit of "out" in the slot will mean a big "out" at the horns of the bulkheads. I found that out, to my cost, with my first Winchelsea build. For W2 I have printed an extra set of the bulkhead plans and I  lay each bulkhead, as I cut it out, on a clean plan examining the cut out slot very carefully for accuracy before any filing. Next, I  draw the centre line of the bulkhead on the clean plan, at deck level, measured between the two "horns" and I mark that on the cut out bulkhead. That line should then line up perfectly with the centre of the bulkhead former. Finally, I try fit and eyeball the "flow" of the bulkheads both from the sides for and aft and along the deck. Time spent here will really repay when it comes to the planking.

 

I hope that helps.

 

Good luck with your build.

Fred

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Thanks for the great advice Fred.  I started on my first bulkheads today and this advice is going to be extremely helpful.  

 

Scroll saw rookie realized why he was sometimes having trouble cutting outside the line today.  Whenever the cutting line was to the left of the blade, the shadow of the blade from the light on the right side was making it hard to pick out the white space between the blade and line.  Once I realized that and adjusted, it's been extremely smooth.

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I have really come to love the WEN scroll saw the last few days. I went slow, took my time and made my fair share of mistakes, but I tried to err on the side leaving too much wood to sand later.  I have a 1" belt sander and discovered that clearance is enough for the slots, so I should be able to clean the slots up at a 90 degree angle easier than a file.  

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23 and 27 have my worst off cuts in the whole project so far, but shouldn't be a problem once I clean up the slots.

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Thanks Fred.  I am absolutely loving this stage.  Learning a new skill and then realizing it wasn't as hard as initially thought is always super motivating. 

 

I allowed myself a budget for saw and material for the same amount it would have cost to buy the items precut from Syren.  The WEN was cheap enough that it left me with enough to buy the little belt sander.  I have a 4 inch belt sander/circular sander, drum sander attachments for the drill press and a Dremel, but I can't file a 90 degree angle to save my life and thought the 1" belt might be the just the right tool for the long part of the former and slots.  It is perfect for that job.

 

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I was able to use it to clean up 20 of the 27 slots plus all the long edges.  I used the scroll saw to slowly shave the other 7 slots.  I'm terrible with a file and am doing everything in my power to keep things perfectly 90 degrees.  I haven't glued anything up yet, but the former is ready.  I did find it interesting that the middle template is mirrored in the pdf.  I'm guessing this corrects for a slight warp in the plywood assuming the parts are laid out on the same piece.

 

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I found an easy way to mark the centerline make sure I'm not off.  I start by sanding the top of the horns and making sure the measurement is the same on both side from the top wale line (I'm assuming the red lines are the wales).  Then I put it in a framing square and use a center finding ruler at the bottom wale line to mark the center; then measure 1/8" from either side of the center for the edges of the slot.  I take a speed square (tried to initially use a machine square but my largest wasn't quite long enough) and draw out all three lines.  Before I take it to the sander, I take the ruler and make sure the lines are centered at the deck level.  If not, it easy to erase and start over.

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The plywood is 5 layers which makes finding dead center easy on the former.  I created a little jig to check that the slot Is centered.  The final plug for the sander is that it keeps everything 90 degrees, so this should make keeping everything trued up much easier.

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Quick update here.  Marking the centerline on the top of the bulkheads is paying dividends.  I cleaned up all the Letter bulkheads today and stacked them on a piece of scrap plywood to see how in alignment they are without the impact from the former slot.  I knew the line wouldn't be perfectly straight, but any bulkhead way out of line should jump out.  Of course, it's the first one I did (U) after the test piece; pulled out the file finally and got it nudged back in line.  Thanks for the advice again Fred.  I'm sure I wouldn't have caught this until it was glued up and I was fairing the hull or even after.

 

 

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Frames have all been cleaned up and aligned on the "jig".  Two buildheads (marked in red) are a little bit off at the top on one side.  I think I may fair lightly a bit to remove any bumps or dips while the frames are so densely packed and the bumps stand out.  But for now I'm going to put these aside, sit down and digest chapter one of the monograph and start at the beginning.

 

I must have a bit of an allergy to birch.  Even with a dust mask and sanding outdoors, super dry throat and coughing up a storm, so I'm going to take a few days away from this wood.

 

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