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Posted

This is my first wooden "ship" model. I've been interested in them for some time. This seemed like a good entry point as it has planking and some wooden block shaping for the bow. It doesn't have masts and rigging. Blue Jacket rates thus as an intermediate model. The box contains laser cut parts, blocks for the bow, pewter fittings, flexible window/windshield material, some line and round brass stock. The small box is the optional paint kit.

 

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Posted

You've selected a great model for your first build. These classic fishing boats have their own beauty. Enjoy the journey, Richard!

Bob Garcia

"Measure once, cuss twice!"

 

Current Builds: 

Hms Brig-Sloop Flirt 1782 - Vanguard Models

Pen Duick - Artesania Latina 1:28

 

Completed: Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Co. 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

 

 

 

Posted

Hi Richard, I just started the Red Baron as my first build from Bluejacket. I’ll be watching your build. 
 

paul

Paul

 

On the Ways: Mighty Mite, Harbor Tugboat by pwog - NautiCurso - 1:64

__________________________________________________________________

 

Completed Builds:

Lobster Boat Red Baron (Bluejacket)

Sardine Carrier Pauline (Bluejacket) 
Swampscott Dory (BlueJacket)

 

Posted

So what tool do people normally use to cut sprues from laser cut wood?

The mahogany on the stand was a bit stubborn on one side. I tried a few different small blades and chisels before using a jewelers/fret saw. The small blades and chisels didn't seem to have the reach in the tight kerf to really use. The fret saw was awkward, but worked. I am pondering just cutting a fretsaw/scrollsaw blade to about an inch and a half and attaching it to the exacto handle if I run into this again. The rest of the kit is thinner birch plywood which I hope will come off or cut better.

Once apart and sanded the stand went together fine. I test fitted each dowel end into different holes before gluing. After a little wiggling it sat flat.

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Posted

Dry fit of frames to keel. These were easier to separate from the sprues, the 1/16" chisel was fine for the ones that needed it. The keel seems deep compared to the the frames, but that might be the nature of this type of boat and/or the planking will make some of the difference. There are a few nibs need to sand on the frames. The slots for the deck pieces are a bit to tight to go onto the frames, so need to sneak up on that fit. I wrote in pencil the part numbers on the pieces. it just seemed easier to keep track that way.

 

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Posted

The cheaper emery boards worked good for sanding the slots wider and light sanding of nibs. I originally tried folding a small sheet of sand paper, but it wasn't firm enough. I found it helpful to clamp both sides of the deck together to keep alignment even as I sand the slots. Slow going, as I work on things a little take a step back and think and read a bunch before continuing, but I am not on any deadline.  

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Posted
1 hour ago, Richard in Missouri said:

Slow going, as I work on things a little take a step back and think and read a bunch before continuing, but I am not on any deadline.  

An expert modeler once told me that slowing down was half the battle. Your thoughtful work will pay off big time as you continue on.

Bob Garcia

"Measure once, cuss twice!"

 

Current Builds: 

Hms Brig-Sloop Flirt 1782 - Vanguard Models

Pen Duick - Artesania Latina 1:28

 

Completed: Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Co. 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

 

 

 

Posted

Hi Richard,

looks like you are coming along nicely, I think the Lobster Boat kit was a good choice for your first kit, I was toying with buying this one just a few weeks ago,  great looking little boats.  I live in Missouri as well, I am in a tiny town close to the southern border in about the middle of the state east to west.  good luck with your build, I will be following along. 

you will find plenty of help here on the forum should you get stuck.

John

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

future build: to finish Mary Rose

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8507-mary-rose-by-tarbrush-scale-172-1545/?hl=%2Bmary+%2Brose

 

 

completed builds:  Constructo Steam Launch Louise

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Finished sanding the slots for the frames and dry fitting together in the keel and deck. Today I glued the two halves of the deck together. the instructions have little balsa support pieces in the front and back in between where the frames would connect. I cut those out with a small bandsaw. I could have used something smaller, but it is good for these straight cuts. I have a little sled I am using for the cross cuts in the 3rd picture. It helps keep things straight and fingers away from the blade. For gluing I thought about how I could apply some light pressure to keep the halves together, I decided to use small cans of stain I had in the shop. just enough weight to keep things from moving. I lightly sanded and wiped the sides with tack cloth before gluing and then glued the small supports on top after aligning with the cans. I am using a silicon glue resistant mat from Rockler, other companies have similar products. I used TightBond wood glue as I am familiar with how it sets. I had also picked up some balsa model glue that I may try on other areas and have CA glue. I didn't think the mat would react well to the CA glue, and as I am gluing flat didn't want to use it here.

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Posted

Looks like you are off to a great start.  Your attention to detail will serve you well.   I'll follow along....I built this kit 4 or 5 years ago, though it was before I discovered MSW so there is no build log of my efforts.  I did post a picture in Eric "cathead"'s review of this kit.  If you have not seen the review it is probably worth a quick look:

 

 

- Gary

 

Current Build: Artesania Latina Sopwith Camel

Completed Builds: Blue Jacket America 1/48th  Annapolis Wherry

 

Posted

Thanks, I read the review and comments. I'll be watching to see how the frames line up before planking. I was under the impression that the bow blocks ended up having planking over them. I thought they were there to provide more material to support the sharper curve of the wood. Reading the review and comments, it sounds more like it is an instead of planking the bow forward of the first frame. I didn't see any seem on your model suggesting that was the case. I like the tank and crates you added in your model.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 9/21/2020 at 12:08 AM, Richard in Missouri said:

Thanks, I read the review and comments. I'll be watching to see how the frames line up before planking. I was under the impression that the bow blocks ended up having planking over them. I thought they were there to provide more material to support the sharper curve of the wood. Reading the review and comments, it sounds more like it is an instead of planking the bow forward of the first frame. I didn't see any seem on your model suggesting that was the case. I like the tank and crates you added in your model.

I think I left the bow block a bit large, then butted the planks up against it, then sanded things smooth.  And then some bondo and layers of primer and no visible seams anywhere.

- Gary

 

Current Build: Artesania Latina Sopwith Camel

Completed Builds: Blue Jacket America 1/48th  Annapolis Wherry

 

Posted

Richard, I just found your log and am glad you and others have found my past review helpful. I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with this kit! Kinda fun to see multiple Missourians in a single build log, there aren't that many of us here. I'm in rural central MO.

 

 

  • 2 months later...

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