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Ken, I'm rigging the yards as much as possible while they are off the ship. I'd like to add the truss now so long as it is a simplified truss like the one used for Syren. Did you use a simplified truss (that just wraps around the mast) for FA? Also, did you run a tye from the lower yards in addition to the sling? Finally, I notice in Lee's that there are two double blocks stropped to the lower main yards above the sling cleats. Do you know for what purpose those might be used? Did you add them? Thanks much! Ed

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Hey Ed.  Hope you are enjoying the holiday season.

As to my rigging of the lower yards:  I tried to follow the FA plans as much as possible - i.e. as much as I could comprehend.

So, my trusses were rigged exactly as shown on page 34, lower right corner, of the instruction manual.  I did make a change by rigging the sling from the cap as shown in Petersson on his page 34.  The truss rigging is also shown on Petersson's page 36.  I did not attach jeers. Other than that, I don't know what tye from the lower yards you refer to.  As for the "two double blocks stropped to the lower main yards above the sling cleats", I don't know what you mean there either.  There are double blocks used for jeers, but, as I said, I didn't add jeers.  There are two pairs of double blocks stropped to the tops above the sling cleats for the bunt lines and leech lines.  Perhaps these are what you're referring to.

Don't know if this explanation  helps.

Happy Holidays.

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Ken and Ed -

Merry Christmas!  I have been following your dialogue and have a suggestion that may help Ed.  I am also into rigging and struggling with rigging and block placement.  I study Kens's and Bob's build log, the plans, and etc but then can't quite remember everything.  I found that I can use Sheet 2 of the plans - the mast and spar diagrams - to make notes on the location and size/type of block that needs to be attached.  Then as I am working attaching the blocks etc I can refer to Sheet 2.  I am finding it big help and hope that you might as well.

 

<<Gary>>

 

p.s.  Ken, your "Fair American" will be treasured by your son and his descendants for generations to come.  It is beautiful.

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Ed and Gary:

Here is my method of determining the size of lines and their blocks:

I use the Syren documentation.  Since the Syren is a 1:64 scale ship and the FA is 1:48, I use a line that is one size bigger than the Syren doc. states.  i.e. if the line on the Syren is .012 then I use .018;  if the Syren is .008, then I use .012, etc.  

For blocks, if the line is .012 then I use a 1/8 block.  For .018, I use 5/32.  For .025 I use 3/16.  That seems to look right and has worked so far.

I use both line and blocks from Syren.

Happy Holidays and happy modeling.

Cheers.

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Thanks, Ken. Your suggestion regarding lines and blocks is precisely the plan I've adopted. (Actually, it was essentially your advice months ago.) Gary, I also made a copy of sheet 2 and use it for notes. Today I took a grandson (age 6) on Space Mountain and Thunder Mountain--he was fearless; I was wondering whether I'd ever see the shipyard again! Best regards. Ed

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Same best wishes to you and yours, Ken.

 

Say, if I may, could I ask the width of the model as she stands now with the yards in place?  I'm trying to determine case size if I decide to build her.

Thanks in advance.

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Hey Augie: 

The length from the tip of the bow sprint to the end of the boom is 28 inches.  The lower main course is 12.5 inches and the height not counting any stand is 23.5 inches.

Happy Holidays to you and your family.

Cheers

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I was able to get some time in the shipyard today so I took the best photos I could of the ‘mess’ of lines and blocks under the tops (as requested by GaryKap).  I don’t know if this will help anyone because I feel that it looks just like the photos included in the instruction booklet.  My photos are in color, of course.

 

The foremast top looking aft:
post-912-0-65465600-1419987861_thumb.jpg

 

The mainmast top looking forward:

post-912-0-42277400-1419987905_thumb.jpg

 

The mainmast top looking aft:

post-912-0-19814800-1419987948_thumb.jpg

 

The boat as seen from the dock:

post-912-0-32947400-1419988002_thumb.jpg

 

Now it's on to the spritsail.

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Great pix, Ken. Not much time in the shipyard lately--sleeping 7 extra for the holidays. But I did get a little time doing off-ship rigging of the main lower yard. Will try to get a picture attached soon. I've decided to leave all yards bright. Hope it looks OK. Best for the New Year to all! Ed

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Ken -

Thank you for taking the time to add the photos looking under the tops.  They are MUCH better than the instruction booklet - larger, clearer, and in color.  They will be of help to me in doing my rigging...and I need all the help I can get.

 

<<Gary>>

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Ken - Thank you for posting this.  I am approaching this stage in my Fair American build, and will also need to deal with it one way or the other.  One alternative that I used on my Rattlesnake build was to strop the blocks with black thread and simply tie them to the eyebolts, because I was having the same problems with 28 gauge wire.  I'll probably get "dissed" for even suggesting this, but it doesn't look bad and preserves one's sanity.  As we said earlier, it depends on who you are building the model for...

 

One other thought.  Take a look at the sketch of the gun carriage rigging on page 21 of the instructions.  Seems to me that the outhaul tackle eyebolts are attached to the bulwarks on a wider spacing from the gunports than the breech line eyebolts.  It looks like you have both eyebolts close to the edge of the gunport.  For the model, a wider separation of the outhaul tackle eyebolts would provide more spacing between the blocks on each side of the carriage and might approve the appearance.  You have only done the two guns, so this would be an easy modification.  Maybe others can comment on this.

 

You are doing great work and I certainly appreciate your sharing it on this build log.  Keep it coming!

 

<<Gary>>

Hi Gary,

I am at the stage of installing cannons. I used blackened picture frame wire for stropping the blocks. The wire is very soft, I used only one strand at a time, stretched it smooth and blackened. Worked well on the 3/32 blocks.

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HAPPY NEW YEAR!

Its back to the ship yard for what I hope will be a good 2015.  I mounted the spritsail and rigged it with no problems.  I also made and lashed the anchor as well as its buoys.  The only problem I had was that I wish I hadn’t permanently belayed and glued the main course tack lines and the fore course sheets before running the anchor cable along the deck to the main hatch.


post-912-0-11069400-1421199518_thumb.jpg

Next is to try and make a stern lantern using the Syren Ship Model company kit.  I can’t believe how small all the pieces are.  I’m using the 1:64 lantern since its size corresponds to the rigging sheet of the FA plans.

 

post-912-0-36005600-1421199588_thumb.jpg

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