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And so it begins. I just received my Medway Kit. And this is the beginning of my build log. I contacted Chuck a couple weeks ago and asked when he would have some kits in stock. He was kind enough to drop me an email telling there were 6 new kits. But the time I placed my order 4 were gone. 4 days later I received my kit. There is no comparison to receiving a Kit from Chuck and any other supplier. This is my first order from the Syren ship company besides parts & rigging. The quality is unmatched. The nice aroma of Cedar isn't bad either. :)

 

I did the checklist (which by the way he provides for you). And of course everything was there and in good condition.

 

So I have my first question - In reading other logs I have found a digital tool mentioned which appears to be a height  gauge for a table saw. Can someone explain how you use your table saw for the Keel scarf joint? If I understand correctly you are cutting the depth and then cutting away the extra wood by hand?

 

PS I have ordered the tool (we can never have enough tools). So I am waiting for my order from Rockler. It also appears that Rockler need to talk to Chuck. His package arrived 2 days ago. And still no sign of Rockler.

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Bob - I have read your Build log. I think you did an outstanding job. I hope mine turns out as well as your. So tell me how did you do the Scarf joints for your Keel? And later in your log you talk about a better tool than the helping Hands (which I have) can you give more details?

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Glad to see another Medway Longboat under construction.  It is a great kit and if you follow the instructions it will turn out very nicely.  I used my Byrnes saw to help with the scarf joint.  I set the blade height to slightly less than half the thickness of the keel and removed the wood by running it over the blade, moving it slightly with each pass letting the saw blade remove the wood in the scarf joint. I then cleaned up the joint with a sharp chisel and a homemade sanding stick.  I practiced this on scrap wood a couple of times as you only have one chance to get it right.  The Byrnes saw just helps to speed up the process, but for me, I probably could have done it just as quick with a chisel and some sanding sticks.  The good thing is the outside of the keel is the only portion of this procedure that will be seen as everything else gets covered up by planking.  I too purchased the digital tool to measure blade height and it sits in my toolbox waiting for another use.

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I believe it was the 80 tooth blade that I used.  A word of caution on the commercial nail files.  Some have a soft core, so when you sand it is possible that it will round off the edge.  For this reason, I use 1/8" plywood and make my own sanding sticks.  They provide a solid base for the sand paper to be rubber glued on and do not cause the edge of the item being sanded to be rounded off.  Go slow and keep tweaking and it will turn out really well.

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On 9/3/2020 at 9:25 PM, fnkershner said:

Bob - I have read your Build log. I think you did an outstanding job. I hope mine turns out as well as your. So tell me how did you do the Scarf joints for your Keel? And later in your log you talk about a better tool than the helping Hands (which I have) can you give more details?

I don't have a table saw so Ryland's advice might be best for you. I used my Dremel tool to roughly take off some material at first. Then I finished up the scarf joints using a sharp #11 Exacto blade, small files, a micro chisel and sanding sticks. I kept placing the pieces together to see how the fit was coming along and then would file a little bit more until I got a nice, tight fit.

 

Full disclosure: I blew might first keel with a boneheaded mistake. I completed the scarf joint and had a beautiful fit. Then I marked the holes and drilled them and then glued the larger filament into the holes, sanded the keel lightly and applied a coat of Satin WOP. It looked great! However, I was admiring my work the next day and embarrassingly realized that I had put the holes on the port side of the keel in the wrong place. My wife said, "Nobody will notice that but you," but it bugged the heck out of me so I ordered another keel from Chuck and made a new one. It was one of those mental errors where I scratch my head and say, "How the hell did I do that?"

 

The tool I have that is 1000% better than one of those flimsy Helping Hands is called a Quad Hands. I used it a lot when I was stropping blocks and for holding lines when I was securing them to the mast etc. It's heavy so it very stable and the magnets on the arms are powerful so they stay put where you want them. I recommend it highly. I got mine on Amazon. 

 

Here is the one that I got with a link below the photo:

 

505878722_ScreenShot2020-09-04at6_18_22PM.thumb.png.ed0eef7b392049dd7f7f120b250cabec.png

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZG2D99/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

 

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Thanks Bob! I have placed my order. I think Chuck needs to talk to Rockler. I am still waiting for my order. Since we are still in lockdown I depend on Amazon and other online sources for my supplies. Rockler has had a week and still no delivery. I ordered Titebond, Sandpaper, & the depth gauge for my Byrnes Saw. FYI to anyone who is building this model. I found 1/64" wide art tape on Amazon and it has now arrived.

 

Last comment - while waiting for all the orders to come thru I was working on the build board to clean out the grooves and one of the pieces broke. I believe someone else mentioned the same problem. Stay tuned I will upload pictures as soon as I have something to share.

 

This site is such a wonder! I so appreciate all of you guys. I will admit I have far more Viking Burials than completed models. But it is you guys that keep me trying.

 

Someone mentioned that the only camera they have is an Iphone. It is the same for me. So I have a dump question. How do you get your pictures form the phone to the computer so they can be uploaded to this blog. I have been emailing them to myself and I know there has be be a better way.

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18 hours ago, fnkershner said:

Someone mentioned that the only camera they have is an Iphone. It is the same for me. So I have a dump question. How do you get your pictures form the phone to the computer so they can be uploaded to this blog. I have been emailing them to myself and I know there has be be a better way.

 

You should be able to upload the pictures from your phone gallery to a build log, no matter your type of phone.

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20 hours ago, fnkershner said:

Someone mentioned that the only camera they have is an Iphone. It is the same for me. So I have a dump question. How do you get your pictures form the phone to the computer so they can be uploaded to this blog.

Tap on the photo that you want to select and it will be enlarged. Various choices of how you want to share the photo will now show up. For example, my MacBook Pro will show up as one of the choices so your computer should show up there. Tap on your computer icon and the photo should be AirDropped to your computer and will now show up in your downloads folder. Go to your finder and open your downloads folder and your photo should be at the top of the list of downloads. Now simply highlight that downloaded photo and drag and drop it into your post. I hope this helps!

 

Remember, Google is your friend. You can literally find an answer to just about anything you ask it to look for. For example, "How to transfer photos from my iPhone to my computer." You will get a lot of responses. You can search for the same question on YouTube and a bunch of videos will come up too. I find answers on Google and YouTube for many things especially when it comes to computer and tech questions.

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OK a bit of info and also some questions - first Bob I just received my Quad Hands! boy do I wish I had found this sooner. Very nice and I can see many projects I would use it on.

 

Chuck - If you are listening to the late comer. a Friendly suggestion - Could burn the Letters & numbers of the frames into the build board? Also I have just finished reading all the build logs. And I suggest 2 hard keels instead of the hard & easy. The Hard is not really that hard but still could be messed up. So a fall back would be nice.

 

So now an update on my build - I discovered today that I screwed up on my Rockler order. So it will be another week. 😢

 

So I have decided to move on and begin working on the frames. Since I have had more failures than completed Models. I want to follow this one exactly as instructed. it says to use a cedar strip 1/16" X 1/32". I don't find that strip in the inventory or on the checklist. I know this is being anal. but is there any reason I can't use Boxwood or another type of wood that is 1/32" X 1/8"? I have lots of this from other failed models.

 

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12 minutes ago, fnkershner said:

Ok a bit of info and also some questions - first Bob I just received my Quad Hands! boy do I wish I had found this sooner. Very nice and I can see many projects I would use it on.

Enjoy!

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18 minutes ago, fnkershner said:

So I have decided to move on and begin working on the frames. Since I have had more failures than completed Models. I want to follow this one exactly as instructed. it says to use a cedar strip 1/16" X 1/32". I don't find that strip in the inventory or on the checklist. I know this is being anal. but is there any reason I can't use Boxwood or another type of wood that is 1/32" X 1/8"? I have lots of this from other failed models.

 

I just used some scrap 1/32" from the planking sheets and cut them 1/16" wide.  They are not big and I only used them on the one piece frames. 

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Its just any scrap wood.  Not included in the kit.  Figured if you are building this you either have it or can cut the small lengths of scrap from the many sheets of scrap you will have after building the frames.  Any thickness will work. 

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Here is my latest installment on my build.

 

My Igaging device arrived yesterday. I studied Chuck Seiler's Log for how he used this tool. He has very good pictures and a detailed description. I took the same measurements he did and came up with the same settings. but when I made some test cuts they were too deep. I tried a few different solutions and found that I needed set the blade height on my Byrnes Saw to .045". This is almost 1/2 the height that Chuck used. so I am concerned. For the time being I have stopped work unitl I resolve this. I look forward to any insight for this wonderful group.

 

PS My simple Keel has been cut into short strips so that I could test this method. So I am committed to making this work.

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Ok after a bit of trial and error. I got the saw blade to the correct height. And yesterday I finished the Keel. Complete with fishing line Treenails and 2 coats of Wipe On Polly here you go! Now come the fun of joining the keep to the bulkheads. This does not appear as easy as I expected. I will be searching various logs to get ideas.

 

PS I have a new favorite wood. This Alaskan Cedar is wonderful stuff. It sands easily and still holds and edge. and the aroma is just another benefit.

 

 

IMG_0533.JPG

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Ok an update. 😀 First I should mention a couple minor issues I ran into. It appears that when I assembled the 2 part frames 3 of them were just about 1/64" short. I tried to make sure the added frame was flush with the bottom edge. But 3 of them were a small bit short when I went to add the Keel. It wasn't a big deal. But it was a surprise. My solution was to raise these frames just enough in the slots in the build board so that the were snug in the slots in the keel.

 

My 2nd issues was when gluing the bow frames I developed a very subtle bend in the Keel. you could not see it with your eye but when I placed a metal straight edge along the length you could see it. this is why you see the clamps in the following picture.

IMG_0534.thumb.JPG.2e62e83c79381740e433ae024607bbec.JPG

The gluing of the frames will be done tomorrow. Then the fairing will begin.

 

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On 9/27/2020 at 1:45 PM, fnkershner said:

you could not see it with your eye but when I placed a metal straight edge along the length you could see it.

My rule is: if the eye can't see it...it ain't there and doesn't matter! 😄

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Ok As I have been sanding and fairing I have found a problem. Please look at the photo below. I need to bring the bow and stern of the build board into alignment. I am considering gluing a spacer block between the those 2 bulkheads. Suggestions?

 

The 2 halves of the build board are out of alignment both vertically and side to side. The vertical misalignment is approx. 1/64". Which likely can be resolved by just joining the 2 halves together. The Horizontal misalignment is approx 5/32". This is more concerning. Suggestions please? Is there any problem with using some strip wood to glue & clamp things into place.

IMG_0537.JPG

IMG_0536.JPG

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Before I placed anything on my build board, I made some tabs from scrap wood and glued them to the edge of one of the build board half's.  This kept the two build boards in alignment so that they would not shift as shown in the picture in the post above.  Here is a picture of the bottom of the build board and the arrows show where the tabs were glued.  This kept the build board in alignment as the build boards could not shift.  The two sections of the build board were not glued together at this time.

 

P1060895.jpg.013b47d6afa2485cadb7c63861a992a3.jpg

 

I followed the instructions on gluing the keel to the frames.  I glued the rearward frames to the keel first, waited overnight for the glue to dry and then glued the forward frames to the keel.  After the glue had dried, I taped both build board halves together.  I ran the tape from end to end so that the build boards would sit flush on my work table.  Here is another picture of my build board with the frames and keel installed.

 

P1060322.thumb.jpg.c9415928bdcc4bd101b96c6ffe32020c.jpg

 

You definitely want to keep everything in alignment.  I even went so far as running a temporary batten along the frames to make sure that the frames were in alignment side to side.  The frames are laser cut with some side to side movement for adjustment purposes and when my frames were inserted into the build board and aligned, I taped them to the build board.  Everything has to be in alignment or the planking will not work properly.

 

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Ok finally I can give an update on my build. First a huge shout out to Ryland. We spent a couple hours on the phone talking this thru. 

 

I spent a couple days using Alcohol trying to dissolve the Titebond II. That did not work very well. So I bought some Acetone. It took 3 days of careful soaking and disassembly, but I successfully removed most of the frames from the keel. I have just reassembled everything and left it to dry. I added the guidance tabs Ryland used. I also used toothpicks to get the glue into the notches in the keel. It appears to cause less mess and not need the brush with water. So cross your fingers and tomorrow we will see the results.

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