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So like other, I have been watching the rebuilding of the Tally Ho yacht by Leo of Sampson Boat  Co. in Sequim OR.  Looking for a new challenge, I thought of scratch building one as he his restoring the original one.  Adding his changes into my design.  So contracted ASA (Albert Strange  Associates) in the UK, and purchased a set of plans.  I have built many kits over the years, but never scratch built one.  So this is going to be an adventure in skills and learning.  I welcome all comments and ideas.  I forgot about this site, so I am going to upload my progress so far.  I am taking liberties on certain construction details.  Like instead of using a LEAD keel, I made mine out of 6061 aluminum bar stock.   If you are a fan of Leo's YouTube videos, you will notice hidden gems from the show in my photos.

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  • 2 months later...

Pancho is a trip.  Regarding the brass knees...........once upon a time, long ago and far away I worked in a open pour foundry. I don't understand why they chose a closed mold instead of a open pour unless it was the heat issue? All the knees turned out beautiful but I felt so sorry for the guys making up those molds.

Edited by Keith Black
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5 hours ago, Keith Black said:

Pancho is a trip.  Regarding the brass knees...........once upon a time, long ago and far away I worked in a open pour foundry. I don't understand why they chose a closed mold instead of a open pour unless it was the heat issue? All the knees turned out beautiful but I felt so sorry for the guys making up those molds.

 

How would you make those complex shapes for some of the knees in an open pour?  Or are you just referring to the more basic shaped ones.  Even then, how do you get the narrowing profile, just have to remove all that extra material from the open side afterwards?

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21 minutes ago, GuntherMT said:

Even then, how do you get the narrowing profile, just have to remove all that extra material from the open side afterwards?

Why do you need a narrowing profile? I would think more the material the merrier. That narrowing to a rounded point looks sweet but is that necessary? You say, look at the extra material cost to which I say, look at the extra time and labor cost making closed molds. Let the knee be the same width at the top as they are at the bottom. More material, more strength.....me thinks? As far as the more complex shapes (seems like there were two if my ole memory serves) where there wasn't a center line from tip to tip, then I can see the benefit/necessity of a closed mold but, I would have looked long and hard at an open pour and removing the excess bronze. A little carving if you will seems like it would have taken far less time than making the molds. Making molds is the worst part of the job, I hated that part. Of course sponsors were paying the bill so it's a moot point. And I'm sure it was also a bit of "this is the way they originally did it" kind of thinking.

 I certainly can't fault Leo, his crew or the foundry because the knees are absolutely beautiful things. Were it I, I'd cry buckets for every one that is lost to view. 

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5 hours ago, Keith Black said:

Why do you need a narrowing profile? I would think more the material the merrier. That narrowing to a rounded point looks sweet but is that necessary? You say, look at the extra material cost to which I say, look at the extra time and labor cost making closed molds. Let the knee be the same width at the top as they are at the bottom. More material, more strength.....me thinks? As far as the more complex shapes (seems like there were two if my ole memory serves) where there wasn't a center line from tip to tip, then I can see the benefit/necessity of a closed mold but, I would have looked long and hard at an open pour and removing the excess bronze. A little carving if you will seems like it would have taken far less time than making the molds. Making molds is the worst part of the job, I hated that part. Of course sponsors were paying the bill so it's a moot point. And I'm sure it was also a bit of "this is the way they originally did it" kind of thinking.

 I certainly can't fault Leo, his crew or the foundry because the knees are absolutely beautiful things. Were it I, I'd cry buckets for every one that is lost to view. 

 

I am pretty sure that one of the big reasons for the narrowing profile is weight, especially as high up on the hull as the knees are you want the least weight possible.

 

In any case, thanks for the reply, I'll stop side-tracking this build log now.  :)

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Just I few more progress photos.  Added the prop shaft.  Harder than I thought to drill a straight line through Purple Heart hard wood.  Long small drills like to drift a lot.  Tiny bolts.
Question for everyone.  Looking for a better source for mini hardware.  These are costing $1.80 for each nut and washer + shipping, not including the bolt itself, or about $4 a bolt (2 nuts, 2 washers & bolt).  Thanks for any help.  Have already got though 25, and have lots more to add.

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You don't say where you are getting your scale hardware now, so hard to say where to get it cheaper.  The only place I'm aware of for things like this is https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/collections/small-parts-hardware

 

Alternative method would be to buy the stock and buy tiny jewelers taps and dies and make your own, no idea where to source that stuff and I'm sure it's not cheap though.

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2 hours ago, GuntherMT said:

You don't say where you are getting your scale hardware now, so hard to say where to get it cheaper.  The only place I'm aware of for things like this is https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/collections/small-parts-hardware

 

Alternative method would be to buy the stock and buy tiny jewelers taps and dies and make your own, no idea where to source that stuff and I'm sure it's not cheap though.

I have been buying from Micro-Mark.  I am using 1/16" brass rods for the bolts and threading 0-80 on the ends.  I will look at the link above and see what they have.  Thanks

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1 hour ago, jwpage said:

I have been buying from Micro-Mark.  I am using 1/16" brass rods for the bolts and threading 0-80 on the ends.  I will look at the link above and see what they have.  Thanks

 

Looks like $8 for 20 nuts - https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/collections/small-parts-hardware/products/nuts-hex-head-0-80-brass-z071b

Washers $6 for 50 - https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/collections/small-parts-hardware/products/washers-brass-1-6-mm-k023

 

 

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I have a selection of gunsmith’s machine screws.  I bought it from Brownells, a supplier of gunsmithing supplies.  It includes small screws, down to #0. I’ve had it for many years and I don’t know if Brownells is still in business but you could give them a try.

Edited by Roger Pellett
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A good source for small nuts and bolts is http://www.americanmodeleng.com/index.html 

 

You need to look for 'small pattern' nuts. You are getting standard nut sizes which are out of scale for the bolt size. The small pattern will look better.

 

A less expensive place is  https://www.microfasteners.com/  but there stuff is not always to a good scale form, but is often cheaper.

 

In one photo it looks like you have a metal lathe. You can buy hex stock and a tap and make you own nuts.

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