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HMS Victory by ronald305 - Model Space


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Hello there again 

   as you know already from the title I am working on the Model space Victory and have a new problem now when I started planking at the stern  I notice the planking  is not coming out even with the other side as you see from the photos I have no problem removing a plank or two if it comes to that, since   I only added one plank on the left side so far and I even measured the distance from the bend to the edge of the stern which is 40mm from plank # 5, when I add  plank #5  to the right side it should be the same distance right, What should I should do to make them  even before I continue with the rest, I would appreciate any input from anyone who has done the model space Victory  thank you 

                       Ronald 

   

thumbnail (6) planking uneven at transon closer view .jpg

thumbnail (6) planking uneven at transon.jpg

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Ron, battens are thin strips of wood, e.g. 2 x 2 mm square stock, used to help judge the run of planks in a planking belt. They help you determine whether the run is properly following the curvature of the hull.

Chris Coyle
Greer, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Hawker Hurricane

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Ronald, 

I suggest you go here:  https://modelshipworld.com/forum/98-planking-downloads-and-tutorials-and-videos/    There's vids and tutorials on planking.  There's one for "simplified" planking which might be a good one to read first.  

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

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CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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  • 1 month later...

Hello there 

    can someone help me with a issue I am having  regarding  bending a tight radius for the stern planks 

 yes you read it right I am still having trouble making the tight turns on the planks no matter how many 

 videos I watch on how to bend planks they still seem to want to split at the turns on the visible side of the bend, I tried  soaking them in how water for 12 hours but  of course everyone knows the water is  not going to stay hot for 12 hours, anyway I tried using the crimpers along with the iron, I did notice I do get a better crimp if I use the blade side instead of the blunt side, I don't what else to do and I am  running out of planks and the one I will be getting from  model space will be awhile before they even   show up  any new ideas will be most welcomed and appreciated. thank you 

                                                Ronald 

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A little nervous to offer suggestions, but could it be that the rear bulkheads need a little more fairing to get a better run? Also have you tried making the bend in multiple attempts (maybe using steam, instead of soaking)?

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Are you using a  "Bending Block"    with your heat Iron  for bending?    it should have come with your Iron,  it is such a useful tool  for getting tight turns with the planks.

 

What I used to do with mine  was to soak the plank you want to fix  - say one on each corresponding side,  then when I t feels wet enough with a bit of bend to it  - pit it over the bend in the Bending Block  and using the heat from the Iron  push down gently in the  curve of the block  till the heat/steam gently pushes the plank down into the curve.   The key heare is not to push too hard  - Just go gentle and feel the bend , it  takes  a bit of getting used to  but it does work  - I have bent a near circle using the tighter of the bends in the Block.

 

Give it a try.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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 thanks  OC 

     I do have the blocks that came with the iron  but isn't the blocks a little wide for the bend I need to make, plus the iron head is also wide I have been  using the  narrow part of the iron and sometime a  soldering  iron  shaft part and gently pushing down on the plank after they have been soaked for 12 hours over the hot part of the iron and have been using the block inverted to support the iron. I have ordered a steamer to help with the twist part of the bend but would like to solve the sharp bend problem first 

                                      Ronald 

Edited by ronald305
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Hi Ronald. 
I have just finished the first planking of my Corel’s Victory. 
I experienced the same situation (planks braking at the stern curvature despite any kind of treatment). Nevertheless, I carry on planking the rest of the segment and then just added a drop of CA glue at the braking point, pressed with a screwdriver to even the surface and sand out the area. The result is good enough and will be covered by the second planking.

 

Keep up the good work !!!

D01E9B98-32A6-4D1B-8448-2745422BADFE.jpeg

E11BAD79-92BF-4162-84B3-26E2DA1F4AA2.jpeg

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Hi, Can you show a photograph from the side? Hard to tell from the rear view of the stern but almost looks like the kit has given the Victory a Square tuck instead of it being round. If so i am amazed you did as well as you did.

Current Build(s):

  • H.M.S Diana 1794 - Caldercraft 1:64 Scale

 

Completed Builds:

 

 

 

 

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I see what you mean  about cracking or breaking mine doesn't break yet LOL but you can see that 

 it shows splinting all over where the sharp bend is I  normally  have been trimming the splinters and 

 sanding the curve but just don't  like the way it comes out, this will be the third time I removed the plank 

 from the model  and try again, which reminds me this question is for everyone would you know where I 

  can purchase 5mm X 2mm X 300mm wood planks thank you 

                                                   Ronald 

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If I may jump in here. Look at a picture of the Victory. It seems to me the last frame, and maybe the next one two it are not faired near enough. Especially the last one. It should more curved. This could be part of your problem Ronald. 

Current build: Model Shipways “Confederacy “

 

Completed builds:

Mamoli “Royal Louis“

Mantua “Royal Caroline”

Scratch 1/4 scale gondola “Philadelphia”

Scratch “Hannah” from Hahn plans. 

 

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Hi, I did mean Ronald's but think you have the same issue. Unfortunately not at home to check plans but that angle looks very severe. Be worth checking against other builds on here. 

 

On Eugenio's i was wondering where the stern board should go with the chase gun ports. There also seems to be no run aft over the rudder.

 

Take a look at the below (lifted from Kevin's build) Sorry Kevin, hope you do not mind.

 

IMG_3894.JPG

 

IMG_4008.JPG

Current Build(s):

  • H.M.S Diana 1794 - Caldercraft 1:64 Scale

 

Completed Builds:

 

 

 

 

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enclosed is a photo of the page showing what I need to do,  this page is from a model space Victory kit pack 4 stage 33 page 191 although part 4 shows the plank partly bent part 5 & 6 shows the  complete bend and twist the twist I can get just waiting on my steamer, the bend I can't get right, as you notice in the photos or does the bend stop  partly like in part 4  there are no signs of stress and splinters any where on the end  plank, any one who is or was working the model space Victory  will know what I mean  393591767_thumbnailpage191stage33.jpg.361fca7b3adf3963d055b5b1e2511ea4.jpg

                                        Ronald 

Edited by ronald305
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3 hours ago, ronald305 said:

 thanks  OC 

     I do have the blocks that came with the iron  but isn't the blocks a little wide for the bend I need to make, plus the iron head is also wide I have been  using the  narrow part of the iron and sometime a  soldering  iron  shaft part and gently pushing down on the plank after they have been soaked for 12 hours over the hot part of the iron and have been using the block inverted to support the iron. I have ordered a steamer to help with the twist part of the bend but would like to solve the sharp bend problem first 

                                      Ronald 

Does it look like this  -   you could use the half moon shape part to get a tighter turn, its what I used to use  for some really tight turns.

 

Pic not mine.

 

OC.

ptk3030.JPG{w=500,h=500}.th.jpg

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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yeah  same design but different brand,  did you see the photo of the instructions  I added 

 it shows the tight bend I'm talking  honestly I do think the block can achieve the bend I need to make to go around the stern transom 

                     Ronald 

Edited by ronald305
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Having a re-think   - if its the last frame causing the problem  with it potentialy being too far back  creating too sharp an angle, how about  adding some more wood behind the last frame/but glued to it, this would enable you to sand a more gentle profile  for the tuk, I think that would help a lot  and take away such a sharp angle.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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Thunder's image of Victory above, and this image of Mark's Vanguard is typical of what you should be seeing on your model..

 

planking 3.JPG

 

gunports 2.JPG

Here is another view.

 

The bending is not that extreme as far as a lot of kits go.

 

Is this a first planking you are working on.  

 

Edited by Gregory

Luck is just another word for good preparation.

—MICHAEL ROSE

Current builds:    Rattlesnake (Scratch From MS Plans 

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

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This photo might help  - again its not mine  I got it off the net, but it does show a (slightly more gentle tuck  round to the back that would help  with the planks)    I had a similar problem  when I was working on tha same kit  about 10 years  ago  - it was a real nightmare  to get right.

 

OC.

How adjustable steel props will look on HMS Victory credit NMRN.jpg

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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Here is a log that shows a nice progression for the planking.

 

 

What kit is Modelspace Victory based on?

Edited by Gregory

Luck is just another word for good preparation.

—MICHAEL ROSE

Current builds:    Rattlesnake (Scratch From MS Plans 

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

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Here is  someone building the Modelspace ( Artesania Latina ) Victory on YouTube..  I jumped to episode 18 where he is doing the stern planking.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vKFi-mjYzgE&list=PLGC1fmQp8LDsu0EKRM9nen3HqOzD8Y3F2&index=18

 

Luck is just another word for good preparation.

—MICHAEL ROSE

Current builds:    Rattlesnake (Scratch From MS Plans 

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

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On 9/14/2020 at 8:51 AM, ronald305 said:

I  decided to remove 4 of the stern planks on both sides and  will remove  the cardboard shims as well and will start over 

                          Ronald 

 

Do your plans include body lines similar to this?

 

 

 

BodyLines.jpg.7b762ea09a5647e6e6852ae414208836.jpg

 

 

It might help to cut out templates and check the shape at the indicated stations.  This would make sure the shape of your hull is correct.

 

You should be able to soak your planks and get them to bend to follow the bulkheads/frames.

 

Let them dry in place before gluing.

 

 

When you bend your planks, watch how the grain tends to rise.   It will often want to rise in one direction more than the other.  Use the bend that creates less rise..

 

You said the video does not help, however he is showing how to bend the planks.  I do not believe there are any other instructions that show it more clearly.

 

image.png.473f816c543398994a19103870b752ab.png

Luck is just another word for good preparation.

—MICHAEL ROSE

Current builds:    Rattlesnake (Scratch From MS Plans 

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

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hello there Gregory 

I have no photos of the ships body lines they will help in case my Victory is just like the one in the photo by the way may I ask   which video did that photo come from,  in any case see that first stern plank he already added that is my issue at hand and I have soaked them for 12 hours, also what can you tell me about the grain theory, I have also been trying to find the right planks for the stern and how flexible should they be to the point of breaking 

  PS if you go back to view the photo of the  instructions part 7 is what I am trying to achieve with no luck in part 4 that type of bend I can get if that is the bend I  need to achieve then I got it, I thought the bend has to be more of a L shape,

                                         Ronald 

Edited by ronald305
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The video is episode 18.  I posted the link in the post above..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vKFi-mjYzgE&list=PLGC1fmQp8LDsu0EKRM9nen3HqOzD8Y3F2&index=18

 

For the first planking I would use 1/16 x 1/4 bass like this:  MODEL SHIPWAYS BASSWOOD STRIPS 1/16X1/4X24" 12 PACK

 

I will try to find you an example of the grain issue..

 

Luck is just another word for good preparation.

—MICHAEL ROSE

Current builds:    Rattlesnake (Scratch From MS Plans 

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

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