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Lady Eleanor by Rik Thistle - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Fifie Circa 1900


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Hi all,

 

The Lady Eleanor box arrived a couple of months ago. Well packaged and no damage during delivery.

 

So, after finishing my Dallas Cutter a few days ago, I couldn't wait to start on my Fifie.  I was also curious to see how kit parts design had moved on since my 25yr old Dallas had been manufactured.

1070994057_LEFifie1.thumb.jpg.d341673c77ffdf059ed1abc1479c6452.jpg

 

A quick check of what was in the box, read through of the Manual and Plans, and then on to sepearating the first parts from the wooden sheets.

750869854_LEFifie2.thumb.jpg.5a9fcd23468d7c7d68dbc014de2aa7e5.jpg

 

I have to say that there is a night and day difference between the 25yr old Dallas parts and Fifie parts. That's not to disparage the Dallas - it was good in it's day and maybe forced one to 'work harder', but the laser cut Fifie parts are so easy to remove from their sheets and fit together with astonishing accuracy.

 

Below, some bulkheads beveled as requested and about to be fitted to the false keel, with Part 19 gingerly sitting in position.

1916790541_LEFifie3.thumb.jpg.f2ce878a08e6605e46e937952c0c72f8.jpg

 

PVA (...too much!) brushed on to the bulkheads.

1782413714_LEFifie4.thumb.jpg.7eac87ad9fe8ea09c76cfa85f65f3003.jpg

 

Now the soldering procedure!

30412541_LEFifie6.thumb.jpg.020f0590cebd36b29b04026dd5d003dd.jpg

 

Clamps holding the prow and stern parts in position. Note: The next day these new red clamps has left an oily stain on the wood - release oil from the plastic mould, I guess. I'll have to clean them all for any exterior work.

1146020368_LEFifie8.thumb.jpg.064760e4cac3659943d3afda4e7292ca.jpg

 

Parts 21 & 22 PVA'ed into position, and the whole lot left overnight to set.

1904083135_LEFifie10.thumb.jpg.2313facf2ac87eb77ea9b9a3bc80003f.jpg

 

Next day....now....I did enjoy putting the decking on the Dallas and I see Blue Ensign has done such with his build (https://modelshipworld.com/topic/24212-lady-eleanor-by-blue-ensign-vanguard-models-scale-164/?tab=comments#comment-712627). He's also done a lot more 'tweaks' that I'd love to also try but are maybe over ambitious for my current skill level.

 

I did find some left-over decking (or hull planking?) from the Dallas that I might have enough of to deck the Fifie.

1039387155_LEFifie12.thumb.jpg.ceaae0914143ba1a6b570e11d0b0efdb.jpg

 

So pondering now what my next move is regarding decking.

 

In the meantime, I saw this short BBC clip on the Reaper... The Boats that Built Britain for BBC... https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=53&v=-CsnfkP6kzI&feature=emb_logo I noticed the decking looks quite dark in the clip, as it does in these stills .... https://www.scotfishmuseum.org/blog/post.php?s=2020-07-09-protecting-the-reaper-during-lockdown-and-beyond

 

Regards,

 

Richard

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Richard,

The clamps appear the be tipped with a highly plasticised PVC, and the staining is likely to be the plasticiser, which is/are oily substances.  Perhaps leaving them clamped onto some scrap wood/paper/ old towel would encourage the plasticiser to leave quickly.  It’s not a surface thing, it’s right through the material, but it should cease to be a problem after a time.

Andrew

 

"Pas d’elle yeux Rhone que nous”

 

Kits under the bench: Le Hussard (Started in the 1980s)

Scratch builds:               Volante, Brig (R/C): Footy Drakkar "Rodolm" (R/C).  Longship Osberg (R/C)

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Hi all,

 

Bulwarks on, and planking started.

 

Below - After soaking the bulwarks in hot water for 15mins and clamping overnight, the bulwarks retained their curve. Unfortunately they also retain the clamping dents of the clamp jaws. I think these clamps are too strong or I should have used scrap bits of wood as load spreaders. Still, the final planking will cover up those marks.

623274495_Bulwarks1a.thumb.jpg.dc93d51400e719e0233b90cc1be3e22a.jpg

 

These are the new types of clamps I have ordered...

51g-nITs0LL._AC_SL1000_.jpg

 

 

Bulwarks now being glued in position...

818480664_Bulwarks1d.thumb.jpg.8fd5d820a38f139b57d43f60429295aa.jpg

 

Both sides glued (PVA only) and partly clamped. Will be left overnight for the glue to set...

362006_Bulwarks3.thumb.jpg.a98f27a9065da3e650ee98df88901de9.jpg

 

Bulwarks glued in position....

685828214_Bulwarks7.thumb.jpg.b66cc8f3cfec03a0bd1f8226dbab1129.jpg

 

First plank glued and nailed. I've driven the nail heads all the way in on the first plank ... I'll need to extract them for sanding though. 'Angling' partly driven in nails was not enough to force the plank hard against the glue covered bulkheads. I'll may try to angle the nails in a different direction on the following planks to generate sufficient driving force.

420877572_Planking2.thumb.jpg.b0c82ddf3d9e863e64cd7f44ef0a01b7.jpg

 

That's all for now,

 

Regards,

 

Richard

 

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You are off to a good start. I had a lot of fun building this model.

Current Build

18th Century Armed Longboat-Model Shipways

 

Completed Build

Lady Eleanor-Vanguard Models

King of the Mississippi-Artesania Latina

 

Future Build

Vanguard Models- Alert

 

 

 

 

 

Jeff Farber

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Hi all,

 

Planking commences.

 

First plank glued and nailed on.

1841286197_Hull3.thumb.jpg.b8c489939e77e127f19b50744351b600.jpg

 

Five planks now in position. Some of the bulkheads did require a bit of extra sanding before the planks touched all the bulkheads

1518438345_Planking2.thumb.jpg.761809bad17e5563dfaaaffcdef13592.jpg

 

An angry looking porcupine bow.

72668955_Planking3.thumb.jpg.a67d12f97c4b43e6f2f4069f7565346d.jpg

 

I put on seven planks without any tapering. With 20:20 hindsight I should have tapered plank 7 a little, and maybe even plank 6.

1528294568_Planking7.thumb.jpg.d78fa994fd3b5963677568abe70ea744.jpg

 

Garboard planks glued, nailed and clamped in position.

1650490526_Planking9.thumb.jpg.2ce4c5f5ad46ee74f3ec23c195dbd85d.jpg

 

Planking installed, followed by a quick scrape with a Stanley blade and then some sandpapering. More sanding is required but it's beginning to take shape. The keel sections were also dry fitted to see where the planking needs adjustment.

622317396_Planking11.thumb.jpg.e4269a28485804ae69151af1fc367a5a.jpg

 

I'll possibly add some filler before final sanding.

 

That's all for now. See you soon,

 

Richard

 

 

 

 

 

 

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5 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

pay special attention to the planks where they meet the stem and stern posts and fine them down until they lie flush with the posts.

B.E. thanks again for the advice and kind words and keeping an eye on me over your shoulder. It is very much appreciated.

 

The quote above is very good info. I actually was wondering what width the planks should end up at the stem and stern. I had been staring at Pg 17 Pic 48 for ages trying to figure out how far I need to take the feathering of the planks. So you are reading my mind.

 

And thanks for the Likes everyone.

 

All the best,

 

Richard

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Hi all,

 

I was reading through the manual and have a question. I wonder if anyone can advise?

 

The manual, page 35, show the rudder with ropes now attached to it's steering bar. Are these ropes just tucked into the two 'bulwark holes', and with a dab of glue to hold them in place?

 

700228272_fifieruddercablesholes2.jpg.626fae88386cf7d12dcb7d56e58d8114.jpg

 

Thanks,

 

Richard

 

fifie rudder cables holes 1.jpg

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Hi all,

 

A question on 'super glue'.

 

I'm currently glueing the pear planking on to the hull (using Loctite Precision Max CA). The Fifie manual advises using "small spots of CA*" ...so the question is - how long can CA be exposed to air (once it leaves the bottle) sitting on the pear plank before I introduce that plank to the hull to make the bond? 

 

My current method is to CA about 1/2" (12.5mm) of one end first, and that is a quick and easy process. Once that end has set, I then dab CA along the length of the plank, which can take a few seconds, then start to push in (and clamp) the plank, from the already glued end .... and that can take another few seconds...and by the time I get to the far end the CA doesn't seem quite as 'sticky'. Maybe it is getting absorbed in to the plank? Or maybe I need a slightly slower setting CA?

 

Bonus question - It's easy enough to clamp the top two pear planks and the 'garboard' plank at the keel since they are on flat surfaces, But the middle planks, sitting on the curves of the hull will be impossible to use a clamp on...should the clamp be my fingers (if I'm using CA)?  Would I also use my fingers (for a longer time) if I was using PVA?

 

Edit: Are Push Pins used to clamp mid-hull planks?

2nd Edit: Does 'CA' stand for Contact Adhesive rather than Cyanoacrylate Adhesive?

 

Any advice greatly appreciated,

 

Richard

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi all,

 

I've been clearing books out of my study into a new set of bookshelves in the attic, so progress on the Fifie has been patchy.

 

Anyway, 2nd layer of planking has been started and completed.1780883083_pearplank2.thumb.jpg.b419fa20e233f23508449297284b67b9.jpg

 

708194642_pearplank4.thumb.jpg.820a6c575dfdbe39bf0703758b9109ae.jpg

 

The blotches below are after wiping the 2nd planking surface down with a damp rag after sanding.

1885603331_pearplank20.thumb.jpg.84606246394939fc84a1aaca82761539.jpg

 

Now on to the painting and decking...

 

Below, using a home made waterline marker...

1917969228_2Hullpaintingred1marking2.thumb.jpg.9347e920483ef69014052287b4551c83.jpg

 

After masking with Tamiya tape and plastic sheet and ordinary masking tape, the PlastiKote Red Primer is on. I've also added the rudder fittings and assembled the rudder but will paint the rudder near completion of the boat when I am touching up hull paint imperfections.

1652768664_5Hullpaintingred2.thumb.jpg.2057207ab601876d80262480f0e007e4.jpg

 

24 hours later followed by Plastikote Matt White...

1352259829_9Hullpaintingredwhite2.thumb.jpg.00ee82a6c9dbfee95d376e335187867b.jpg

 

And finally another 24 hours later Plastikote Satin Black.... I'm going for a hybrid Reaper look 😉

1305587266_10Hullpaintingredwhiteblack1.thumb.jpg.a3bfc9812ea2a4178ad3b6ea1be6e6a8.jpg

 

Checking the fit and positioning of some of the deck fittings...nothing glued on yet. And strips of grey wood (soon to be decking) being introduced to Fifie.

438858792_11Deckplanking1.thumb.jpg.235936befb8d80a30beca0017ad0e015.jpg

 

First 4 planks of the grey wood are glued in place. I've marked in pencil where the hatches etc will be, and will also use Chris' deck as a template for cutting out planking that covers openings. I'm using continuous planks on the deck - I will later score them to simulate shorter lengths.

1504973986_15Deckplanking5.thumb.jpg.18d425df4e0f5760ace621be1b29509d.jpg

 

Well, that's all for now,

 

Cheers,

 

Richard

 

6 Hull painting red 3.jpg

13 Deck planking 4.jpg

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Hi all,

 

Deck has now been planked with full length planks. Also using Chris' deck as a template to mark where the deck openings are. My plan is to use a scalpel to mark the planks to represent shorter lengths.

1167422047_1deckingcomplete1.thumb.jpg.f9ea249188d992fd7e1f272523803fce.jpg

 

Below - Timberheads and bulkhead rails glued and drying overnight. I'm using a Humbrol Acrylic matt (25) blue for highlighting deck features. 

 

With 20:20 hindsignt, and regarding painting in blue, I should have only laid the very outer curved deck planks which would have allowed me to paint the inside surface of the bulkhead rails and timberheads blue. I'll know next time...but I'm learning there is an optimum build sequence for things such as painting.

652116886_2timberheadsandbulkheadrails1.thumb.jpg.61ae0cb633e1aaebde6db6dad698e16e.jpg

 

Below, I decided to paint the brass parts sheet black. I think it will give the Fifie a more industrial look.

690646929_3brasspaintedblack1pg.thumb.jpg.0599ff250de63b5fa3490ea71b74134a.jpg

 

After spending an age trying to score the deck planks with a scalpel to represent shorter planks I decided to invest in some small chisels. They are incredibly tiny but perfect for scoring the planks, and shaving of excess wood where I don't want it...and no doubt many other things. They seem very well made.

242338244_4chisels1.thumb.jpg.1225635b85b26c2d3142acd03f617495.jpg

 

Fitting the cleats, which I painted gold to represent brass. I also masked off the large deck holes since I didn't want any cleats disappearing in to the bowels of the hull never to return.

2066746318_5cleat1.thumb.jpg.a5ec049b257d96e79565acd47f668f8c.jpg

 

All the deck fittings have now been installed and both masts tapered and trial fitted. I have removed some of the fish/net hatch planks and plan to stuff an already made lace curtain 'fish net' in there to represent a drift net. But I think I should have made the opening in the hatch on the side where the steam capstan is...darn.

125404634_6deckfurniture1.thumb.jpg.abfc24315ecffb48f7d78d82d227a9d7.jpg

 

OK, well that's it for this week. It's been fun so far and I'm happy with the way little Fifie is turning out.

 

See you all soon 😉

 

Regards,

 

Richard

 

 

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Thanks James.

 

Some bits of the build have gone together quite quickly, whereas other bits require more patience and planning. Just like life, I guess. 😉

 

I've got Chris' HMS Flirt waiting patiently in it's box downstairs. That will be a much bigger undertaking for me and will likely take me quite a few months to complete.

 

I have also been toying with the idea of doing a non-ship build next, just as a change from ships...say something like Stephenson's Rocket or a Stagecoach (I do like a good Western) ...but I think it would be rude to keep Flirt waiting too long. We'll see.

 

All for now,

 

Richard

 

 

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4 hours ago, Rik Thistle said:

It's been fun so far and I'm happy with the way little Fifie is turning out.

You should be happy.  You have done a good job on building your Fife.

Ryland

 

Member - Hampton Roads Ship Model Society

            - Ship Model Society of New Jersey

               - Nautical Research Guild

       

 

Current Build - Armed Virginia Sloop, 18th Century Longboat

Completed Build - Medway Longboat

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all,

 

I've been working on the sails and some deck fittings.

 

Sails first...

 

First, tying the yards to the sails using simple reef knots. Also added were the yard sail lift ropes.

1262312851_sails2.thumb.jpg.98b751f52ef6f770bdf23a1a7e3460df.jpg

 

The reef point positions were then marked out using Tamiya masking tape. Dimensions calculated from the excellent Fifie/Zulu builds on this website, not least B.E.'s .....

....and online photographs.

 

Reef points being threaded into position...a bit of a tangle at the moment.

584103456_sails7d.thumb.jpg.002001884d9b7ac6008cedd264fc3d3e.jpg

 

I used Occre 0.15mm thread.

382372619_sails7f.thumb.jpg.134c2ef598384dc4c4c8327ff1fd3934.jpg

 

And the knots on the back of the sails were 'walked' right up to the cloth using a sharp, pointed object.

514353039_sails7g.thumb.jpg.00699221684a290211c76f4b0f82a1b4.jpg

 

Reef points now fitted and cut to length. I used B.E.'s advice to add a dab of glue just at the knot to get the thread to lie flat and downwards. There's a little bit of glue staining obvious but I picked most of it off and it's not that noticable from a distance.

627179569_sails7i.thumb.jpg.31d3d3d501b6bd5491f1df0dead8cbbd.jpg

 

Masts installed (not glued since they are a reasonably tight fit) and ready to accept the sails

486470419_sails7j.thumb.jpg.a799da6d3ea6ca9b6ccbf7a71fec1cc1.jpg

 

Sails tentatively positioned. Lots of rigging still to do.

1854347640_sails7k.thumb.jpg.538d078686cd082a0eba4b3f6cd3987f.jpg

 

View from the stern.1931959949_sails8a.thumb.jpg.5970406244e465edd70fbe72e01cd7e2.jpg

 

I added a lifebouy. I can't imagine the fishermen, hardy as they were, going to sea without some kind of flotation device. Online searches showed white, red & white and blue & white lifebouys in use last century. Most were held in a metal rod cradle against a cabin wall or tied onto the deck. The Reaper Zulu does have a white lifebouy fitted to it's Foremast crutch, so I copied that. IIRC, I also saw a B&W pic of a Fifie with a lifebouy on the crutch.  I should really attach a few coils of rope to the lifebouy.

1934768753_sails8b.thumb.jpg.336409e99ce4171f259799a950e8ee19.jpg

 

Also, I added a rope to the rudder steering mechanism.

 

And I'd like to add a thick rope to the Capstan and have it attached to a sail or sails but am unsure whereabouts that attachment point would be - anyone have any thoughts?

 

Well, that's it for today,

 

See you all soon,

 

Richard

 

 

Edited by Rik Thistle
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Well done Richard, I think you have achieved a  nice period look  with your scheme.

Those reef points are a bit of a pain but I think the sails look better with them.

 

I have seen the odd lifebuoy on old photo's but mostly not. I read that crew were known to attach the floats which were bladders around themselves, but the loss rate due to disasters at sea was very high, it was not unknown for  small fishing villages to lose nearly all their menfolk.

 

Sorry  I can't  offer any suggestions for a capstan rope at present.

 

B.E.

 

 

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Thanks B.E.

 

I think the reef points are a vital part of the functionality of the boat. So I really couldn't leave them out. And your build gave me all the guidance I needed.

 

Yes, those fishermen had a very hard life. Very few become remotely wealthy on it...it was a case of just surviving at sea, and on land.

 

I have seen lifebouys pictured/filmed on a number of Fifies/Zulus ... eg

 

...but they do look like very modern additions, and no doubt to comply with H&S.

 

Back in the day, I can imagine crews attaching bladders to themselves ...even then the cold waters would would be very dangerous. Thanks for that insight.

 

Before I started Lady Eleanor I knew little about the Scottish and UK fishing industries. But having trawled the internet for info and bought Inshore Craft  by Greenhill & Mannering, I feel I have a better understanding of it all. Still much more to learn though.

 

And that is an interesting 'side effect' of building models...the building is enjoyable and skills are developed, but my interest is also piqued by what made these things tick.  In fact I'm beginning to appreciate what amazing 'machines' boats and ships are and the businesses/politics behind them. It's good stuff.

 

Regards,

 

Richard

 

 

 

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Hi all,

 

Lady Eleanor is leaving the shipyard on her way to the fishing grounds around the coasts of Scotland and England.

 

It's been an enjoyable build - the shipwrights working on it are a good bunch, and although they made a few mistakes I won't be docking any wages since I need them for the next build.

 

Below, L.E. saying 'thanks' to her build guide.

834278843_fifie4c.thumb.jpg.dcef2e66ac6a6e518fa6929949c1df6a.jpg

 

Close up of the deck. I've neatly coiled the ropes which is probably wrong for a working trawler...I guess they were more gathered together in a fashion that prevented tangling. I also added my own decking. Chris' laser engraved deck is absolutely fine, but I just like laying decks.

1561056134_fifie5.thumb.jpg.3e7a5417436a20f760fa2191e8684227.jpg

 

I added a lifebouy and a rope around the steering mechanism.

1948527858_fifie7.thumb.jpg.dabac76fdd2adc15112486ca0d7726df.jpg

 

Another pic of the deck. I used full deck length strips of wood and then 'scored' them to represent planking - some of the scores look a bit brutal this close up but are OK from a distance.

1900742453_fifie8.thumb.jpg.049f6e8b290eeb612c5e90b9aa05e6dd.jpg

 

Hatch - I used a razor saw to remove some of the hatch cover planks and stow them at the side. I aslo added a 'weathered' net (lace curtain material).

2036023228_fifie8a.thumb.jpg.4064bf692a0b3db632e34d3848d57b53.jpg

 

The Capstan looks like it has rotated a bit. It's not glued in so I must have nudged it. I may added a rope to the capstan later and attach it to the net once I find out the correct routing etc for the rope.

1024619335_fifie9.thumb.jpg.3fd1086bce946b7d51829f24488eaa8d.jpg

 

Yup, that capstan has definitely moved!

1619668602_fifie10a.thumb.jpg.b22f1ed5d2ea555b802e3c316fdf6da4.jpg

 

Finally, a big thank you to Chris and Vanguard Models for the work put in to producing The Lady Eleanor.  It took me about 7 weeks, most days doing something, even if it only for 15 mins just to keep up the momentum. I've just noticed the name plates are missing...somebody's wages are definitely getting docked now!

774752397_fifie14.thumb.jpg.1564780ab39a244b140b5033ac696ae4.jpg

 

As luck would have it, a few weeks ago I ordered some black plastic chain for the steering mechanism...it arrived yesterday!

585182327_Fifie15Chain1.thumb.jpg.015a78c0417a2c0383748e26afe1558b.jpg

 

And a question...Pear Sheet 2 has 14x pairs of little 'triangles' that I never used...what were they for?

967645568_Fifire16woodpieces1.thumb.jpg.163a6ef5c5067c4f07d42d00fc05e698.jpg

 

OK, well next in line is HMS Flirt (MSE). That's a bigger undertaking for me and will certainly get me through the winter...I wonder though if I shoud try something different first eg stagecoach, Stevenson's Rocket, Pagoda etc?...pondering

 

Oh, and a big thank you to all the other Fifie/Zulu builds on this website and the always helpful comments and advice. This website is a great place to be.

 

All for now,

 

Richard

Edited by Rik Thistle
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Thanks VTHokiEE.

 

I think the main inspiration for my small changes comes from Blue Ensign's extensive work on these type of vessels. I'm keenly watching where he takes his Zulu Muirneag 🙂

 

Richard

Edited by Rik Thistle
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Congratulations on completing your Lady Eleanor.  You have a highly crafted model of a work boat. I look forward to your HMS Flirt build.

Ryland

 

Member - Hampton Roads Ship Model Society

            - Ship Model Society of New Jersey

               - Nautical Research Guild

       

 

Current Build - Armed Virginia Sloop, 18th Century Longboat

Completed Build - Medway Longboat

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