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HMS Speedy by Spyglass - RESTART - Vanguard Models - Scale 1:64

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PREVIOUSLY  -  I started building Speedy January 2020 while in temporary accommodation and then moving into a new house - didn’t go well .

Though fixable it seemed better to start afresh - so I asked Chris Watton to supply  some hull parts which he did at a very reasonable charge

I decided that old log was very messy and it would be best to start anew.

It maybe has some possible areas on interest so I you want to look it’s here   -  OLD LOG

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So away we go again - with a nice array of parts from Chris with some chance upgrades as well.

All ply or solid.


Chris suggested the use of 1mm lime so I have a supply it looks quite delicate against the other 1.5mm stuff. But of course it "shapes" nicely.

I have enough 1.5 as well - I  think I will hold off making a decision on which to use for later




Theoretically it shouldnt take that long to get back to the position I was in and get first planking underway.

Just an initial check parts and dry fit first though. Going to be a fun day!

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Well everything is there and in good condition.

 I have some parts of the Flirt MB hull bits- it is noticable how good the laser cutting is - there is very little "laser cutting angle". I will assemble in my normal way with the cutting angle going with the flow of the hull( Number side forrad up to part 8 and the other way from there aft) but probably doesnt matter at all.


Nice fit overall - only had to ease a fraction the keel slot for number 12

Stern frames go on nicely - phew !


Bit puzzled as to why the lower deck doesnt precisely align along the central line - the keel ply seems flat - suspect that one of the BHs or another bit isnt properly seated. But if not a touch of the file along the edge will address. Or maybe the rest of the assembly will bring it into alignment.


Hit a teeny problem forrard with fitting parts 19 into BH parts 2 and 3. The keel ply is thicker than allowed for in parts 2 & 3.   I have checked and rechecked because usually in these cases I have just made a mistake but i cant see it.

No real problem - again just a touch of the file will fix.


Its a problem with Chris stuff if the fit isnt absolutely absolutely right - you assume you have made a mistake !
 Anyway - i will recheck these points and get on tomorrow to drilling the mounting holes.


Did a little trial with the keel ply to see if I could create a rabbet along keel and stern by just removing one layer of ply each side.  I have done it in the past with bigger builds and can give a very neat job but that was 5ply and this  ply is only 3mm 3 ply and though it MAYYYY be possible I think it would be pushing it too far to bring the keel edge down to only 1mm. 

(Whoops just thought - note to myself - check calculations if you decided to use the 1mm lime for first planking)




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Well a quick file of the slots fixed the part 19 issue.

And the alignment of the lower deck sorted itself with a bit more tidying of  the tabs and adding more parts.



All square. - So dry fix check very happily completed except for one awful moment when I clipped the stern frames and they flew across the desk - but no damage !!



The new and the old.


All to pieces again tomorrow - mounting holes and initial BH  and filler shaping.


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Bit of progress.

Decided NOT to slim down stern at this point - its a very small area and i will do it on one hit with the first planking  but I will terminate the first planking a bit short there at the stern. Plus that little curve up of the bottom strip that Chris shows.


Drilled pilot holes 1mm for pedestal rods - did it by eye in the 3mm ply but sweated a lot after I had started drilling!


  I will make them out to 2mm after I have fixed the ply strengthening pieces shown - the 2mm brass rods are just positioned - not in place.  The rods are positioned to allow access to the top nuts through the hatches if needed. Suitable lower deck fittings will conceal

 IMG_20200916_182351.thumb.jpg.4bee890caf5bc87363ffd581a46bd6f4.jpgDrilled 1mm holes and placed  steel temporary dowels for keel, stern post and inner stem post to allow easier first planking .

Havent YET decided whether to first plank with stern post temporary or permanently fixed but as you can see I placed two dowels to allow for it.


Looked at my "other build" and decided no rabbet needed along the keel.

On my first try I didnt find the slots in the inner stem post quite as useful as they might seem and the post did get in my way. BUT if I plank without fixing it I think am going to have make a gap at the top to allow fitting around the front tabs of gunport strips.


Cant think of anything else to do before getting out the glue


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Well I WAS going to sit out on the balcony and reshape bits - but the rain set in - so tomorrow .

But spent the time marking up the areas to trim.  And tested how the ply cut - really nicely with scalpel or blade so that not a worry

Was going to do the usual and mark the edges of the Bulk heads with black pen  -to ensure that the edge of each BH nearer midships is left untouched (if that is edge is left  then absolute total disaster of overshaping can always be averted)  BUT the laser char serves the purpose I found


I have always found it is useful to use other bits of the kit to get the cuts defined - first the capping rail is always a good guide to the cut ANGLE of the top of the BHs


Decks are always handy too  -the main and the lower decks


BE CAREFUL THOUGH  - use these as  guides to the ANGLE of shaping the BH  -the actual shape against the edge of the deck etc should be left till later shaping after glueing.

Both now and later I use a short straight edge to see where to shape further points down the BHs and indeed I usually replace the straight edge with a long blade for direct cutting ( carefully)



If the straight edge or the blade is held symmetrically  from the two  adjacent  BH then that gives a cutting angle which is slightly less than it needs to be finally but gives a good start off build.



Also -not a HUGE advantage of doing it at this point rather than later -  but I also rough out the fillers.


Holding against the edge of the BH nearer midships allow you to mark the cut angle and since in this kit the pieces are ready shaped at

the bottom you can just follow that cut angle along ( Pretty colours are failed attempts to find a marker pen for the BH edges which stood out from the laser char - I gave up !)

Forecast is good for tomorrow weather on the balcony !



Thought I might as well fix  some the BHs part 4 - 9 that wont be shaped off build - used the two deck to ensure all square. making quite sure i kept glued areas away from the decks to avoid later embarrassment!


1859426702_IMG_22141.thumb.jpg.dccf08230114e756f706e8a0bf98944f.jpg  416402994_IMG_22151.thumb.jpg.70d0951883214521ad8182345b04658c.jpg


Will glue 10 - 13 late tonight when the first glue has had a chance to  grab a bit. Then all set for a shaping binge tomorrow !


LATER - Actually have only done 10 - 12, I decided that 13 was best shaped initially off build. The floor strengtheners 22 went in as well - all helps to lock it all together


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The weather and things prevented me from getting the BH fairing done on the balcony as quickly as I had hoped. But soon  be sorted - did add a few more bits



And meanwhile I have found a use for my abandoned first  build.  Great former for strip shaping - a new version of double planking eh !!


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  • 2 weeks later...

Finished the fairing to my normal OK standard then realised that if I was going to use 1mm lime it had to be a bit better to obviate my "Pickle " danger of nearly sanding through the first layer  -so i needed to do some more . But a few factors intervened ! - the balcony was no longer a pleasant sanding point with torrential rain and  my  builder went bust !!

But far more practical was that I had by then glued the pattern blocks in - the lesson is driven home once again -  SHAPE THE PATTERNS BEFORE STICKING  -I found it incredibly difficult - alright I have my dodgy right arm  -but not one of my files or sanders or Dremel heads seemed to fit  -its  taking ages !!!.


Still needs a bit more - but I am checking with strips and also the gunport ply - here I am just putting a good turn in the end before final fitting.

Fortunately I havent glued the stern ones in !


I have just pondering also whether to make the inner stem temporarily demountable and cut  it at the top and aft so that I can fit the gunport strips  and still both be able to remove the inner stem for first layer sanding and use it as a planking guide. At the base design you have to fit the inner stem to fit the gunport strips - and then cant remove it for sanding.


IMG_20201006_174606.thumb.jpg.88578815bd5f19dcee4b189d1f966e5a.jpg  IMG_20201006_173501.jpg.2d0e5dbb5510cf41a4af2b21e761ce24.jpg


The cutpoint will be under the sprit so the join will be invisible anyway.

  I suspect I am overthinking this all - AGAIN !




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Well  fairing took much longer than expected - sticking those patterns in before shaping was a real silly.

Anyway I trip to  the local ladies shop for a section of nail files gave me a useful addition to my tools at the cost of a leetle embarrassment!.



 The one with " padding" were particularly good because they took a curve nicely.


I still havent made up my mind whether to do the first planking with or without the inner stem fitted - but I fixed a couple of steel dowels to make it demountable.





I wanted to finish off the fairing by getting the stern gunstrips and other  bits sorted. So I started aft with a bit of strip shaping - l bless the invention of rubber bands. 



As you can see I have already done most of the prebending on the forrard strips


I of course was nervous about those stern frame patterns after previous experience - so I have been soooo careful with them UNTIL I  dropped my minicraft drill - straight into the drawer with the box holding them - one cracked frame !! Locked them away now!

But next step was to fix the aft strips,the frame patterns and the two stern patterns and make sure they run smoothly.

However the intermediate step is to fix the deck - no problem clicked it on and off several times already, but realised i needed to think/do something about securing the tops of my brass mounting rods


and  see if they needed concealing and would need to devise some way to get at them in future ( pic from halted build).

Front one no problem - has hatch cover. Aft one should have a staircase - though I suppose I could cheat and also do a hatch cover but I have one of Chris's lovely stair kits so it would seem a shame not to do stairs - I am sure I can make the stair demountable or moveable in some way if needed



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Good to see you going again - I'd like to second BE's comment, this hobby provides way to many opportunities to over-think things. In this case Chris has excellent instructions, I'd recommend just trusting them and build stuff.  


I had to start Cheerful over after dropping and shattering the frame, not fun but I'm glad I did in the end.

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Thanks for the kind thought Glenn.

  I have been building from kits for nearly fifty years -  started with Lilla Dan from Billing. But I was just trying to count how many Chris designed models I had built over the years got to roughly 12 but I think he designed one or two others i did( Unicorn ?). The first eight or so of his I did by the book  and they turned out fine. 

Then i turned experimental😁 😁😁unfortunately the world and my health fell on  me shortly afterwards ( bit of a stroke left a tremor, my eye sight is rubbish and I lost one of my bicep tendons) so its turned into a bit more of a saga each time.    But I like building and dont have this urge to finish things which so many are prey too !! 

i have never had to totally restart a kit before but done lots of recovery work during builds but this **** MDF I just found too much work to repair adequately.

But happiness is a new number 11 and a bit of wood !!

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Spoke sternly to myself and got on with things !

Shaped the rear plank patterns I had forgotten and fitted them

Faired the stern  BHs a bit more, particularly the tops of the last two, and fitted those delicate stern frames.

Checked the temporary dowels were correctly aligned and fitted the stern post ,then fixed the pre-curved counterand the stern bulwark.




Fitted the deck - but I cut out a section forrad to still allow the inner stem to be removeable.







Then fancied going a bit experimental and started the gun port strips from the stern, they had been almost totally prebent and fitted nicely so far just dry fit to ensure a good match to the stern pieces - seems fine.

Pinned the rear strips position and used  my cheap carpenters laser level and bubble to check all was level. IMG_2260.thumb.JPG.afff4a0d84d064de4473a817c7a53286.JPGIMG_2264.thumb.JPG.36af7ab5604d2af54001fcf465463059.JPG 


Checked that the forrad strips ran correctly from the jigsaw join with the stern strips and into the ( temporary fitted) inner stem. ( quite pleased with how the pre-bent forrard strips fitted  - no pins !)



So next step glue the stern and counter bits and then onto the forrard strips.

I still havent decided whether to use the 1 or 1.5 mm lime for the first planking - when the gunport strips are all on  will run a few test strips and check the BH fairing.

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And continued.....

 Fixed both aft gunport strips


  I am afraid I  went experimental again and did a temporary dowel fix on the inner stem piece and then fitted the starboard main gunstrip but didnt glue the last bit from the first BH  forrard.


Means I still have the option to "spring out" the stem piece before sanding and to assist with planking - we will see if it works !! The strip is fully formed and is not being held down at all by the stem piece in fact if anything its over curved.

Other one on tomorrow .

Then the decision about whether to plank with 1 or 1.5mm lime -the thinner stuff bends easily and nicely but the thicker stuff gives more leeway on sanding.

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All the gunport strips on OK not as perfect as I was trying - but late last night I had a revelation - the wale will hide any problems along the bottom edge so I have been fussier than I needed.


 I hadnt noticed until I came to line up the final forrard strip that i was a teeny teeny bit out on the rear strip less than a mm at the jigsaw  joint  when I positioned the front strip into the stem


I just wondering whether i should redo it - it probably wont show but it may bug me.  I shall whip out the IPA and if it will comes off easily I probably will. 


Spent some time doing these bull dog clip plank holders - they are tiny 15mm  and dirt cheap   will see if they are any good. 

1544754199_IMG_22751.thumb.jpg.0f7fca9cccda5fa21933baf19dcea4b2.jpg 558773473_IMG_22761.thumb.jpg.f968cdc0b4f95547fd12fce1b2404306.jpg

The pic resizing mechanism seesm to have failed !

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I think you're just overthinking this. Not only do you need to sand the first planks, but you've another layer to yet add and sand. There's nothing the wale will need to hide. All looks perfectly ok. 


As for planking, 1mm or 1.5mm......it makes little difference. There's enough bulkheads to plank against that 0.5mm isn't going to figure in your final result.


Get this mother planked! 🤣

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