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HMS Speedy by Spyglass - RESTART - Vanguard Models - Scale 1:64


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Undid the port aft s gun port strips - IPA works fine and rejigged it forrad that mm

 

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Picture resizing still fails i will have to do some prepost editing if this goes on.

Teeny mod on the small bulldog clips improved hold a lot - simply straightened the tails on the captive handles so they dont holdthe clip open a bit.

Edited by SpyGlass
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  • 4 weeks later...

Small hiatus  and delay while I saw to getting my new house finished - the buiders went bust ! - Hey ho

 

Anyway I bought a kettle to stop the Admiral complaining and found that it suited me and this small build very well . In the past i found it a bit of a problem with larger models - longer strip)

The lime I have is nice straight grain and almost "finger shapeable "( almost but not quite - broke a few strips),.

Anyway  twenty seconds in the body of a boiling kettle make it beautifully shapeable and I found that it dries very quickly and i checked on shrinkage - a bit but MUCH less than soaking.

 

So on i went and prebent all the first planking and was just about to fix when the builders isue arose so I had to leave it just after I had demounted the strips.

Came back to two weeks later and the cleaning lady had bumped into the bench and shaken up all the nicely ordered strips -

which i had - 😬 - neglected to identify !!

 

At the same time the "experimental" mood came on me on - after watching the YouTube video on Tally Ho garboard and finding I had  some 8mm wide lime strip thought i would try for a wider garboard and it worked quite nicely with  perfectly adequate fit against the BHs 

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Small embarrassment i wont dwell on here  -  see - Whoopsie

 

So barring any more interruptions I will now move onto  first planking gluing at last

 

Edited by SpyGlass
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Garboards are on and top planks  also fixed in place except for the last inch or so which allows me still to remove the stem.

I happened to try one of my "surplus" 8mm starboard garboard strips as the next strip up and  very greatly to my surprise it laid quite nicely against the BHs. Almost got enthusiastic to plank the whole hull in 8mm   But a test or two showed that wont work when the curve in the central bulkhead becomes too much have to go back to 5mm there

But i will try for maybe a few more 8mm rows top and bottom because it does make shaping the forrard ends simpler.

 

Anyway barring any more dramas with my bankrupt builder i hope to have the first planking done in a day or so

Would show pics but   camera battery flat !

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Stiil no camera battery but I am progressing - latest interruption of course - Xmas decorations !! Early because of Covid need to celebrate something!

 

But using a few more rows of 8mm works well  -means you can shape the strip much better - but I  had a limited supply so just went for the bottom three rows. 

 

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Put the first stealer position in as well

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Rest going fine once i had got over my carelessness of not labelling the prebent strips.

Pick a strip !!!

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Edited by SpyGlass
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  • 1 month later...

SpyGlass,

 

Thanks much for the details of your prep for the first planking.  I've recently started the Flirt and what may seem to be a simple process of shaping the forms, had me overthinking quite a bit as I was too concerned  over making a mess by sanding the wrong angle off of the forms. 

 

Anyhow, appreciate the details of how you approached this as I'm also taking small steps.

 

Thanks,

 

Steve

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You learn by making mistakes - i have been doing this hobby for over forty years and as you can see I am still making them !! 

There are two golden rules about fairing I have found

You probably are ok as long as you leave the relevant forrard or aft edge of the BH intact as you fair.

And  when you have finished your first fairing pass - you almost certainly still need to do more fairing at stem and stern !

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Well a milestone - first  planking almost complete.

I was becoming ashamed of all the new builds of Speedy and  Flirt starting and overtaking me . 

So sat down and just got stuck in. I found when I came back to it I had forgotten what my original planking scheme was and i had a lot of prebent planks which just didnt seem to fit !  So made the- best of it starting from about here.

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Found my early stealer positioning was wrong but "jiggled" it a bit

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And here we are today

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Edited by SpyGlass
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Now the big choice looms - what do I use for second planking - got enough to  do pear, or box, or walnut (which is my normal one and i love dearly despite many not liking it) or even holly !! . And even enough of  "some other wood" which i cant identify but is none of the above.

 

I had intended pear - not sure about the colour  may have to varnish a bit and see how it comes up,  the box calls to me but the stock I have has a lot of chipped edges and may be too much faff to fit, walnut I am familiar with and it "obeys" me,  holly is i think just too light . Nice to have choices !

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Posted (edited)

I am not coppering or painting bottom so the colour matters a bit more to me - and the pear i have seems to have a slight " pinkish" hue - but i will varnish a bit and see . 

I am in wood confusion state anyway - just had a quote for finishing the handrail on my balcony in Iroko - £2000 ( $2800) for the wood its not THAT big a balcony - the price of hard wood has just shot through the roof was expecting about £800 the difference buys a lot of pear !!

Edited by SpyGlass
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Just now, SpyGlass said:

I am not coppering or painting bottom so the colour matters a bit more to me - and the pear i have seems to have a slight " pinkish" hue - but i will varnish a bit and see . 

If you use poly on it, it looks beautifully warm in colour.

Check out my Zulu, Fifie, Flirt and Duchess for the same timber under poly varnish.

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My experience with pear is it ages beautifully, especially with a coat of poly.  It may be the shared common language thing, but varnish as I know it is not something I’d put on any model. 

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I wouldnt use " proper varnish" but have used for years  Ronseal Varnish Satin Coat  which is of course a polyurathane. Usually thinned with white spirit to make a wipe on ! Care - some Ronseal stuff is water based and i find it blooms.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just started to sand and tidy up the first layer,

 Small hiatus when I heard something rattling inside - so removed a bit of planking to retreive a small bulldog clip!!

 

Just using my trusty snap off blade as a scraper for the bulk of the work.

Forgot an important lesson - wiped the hull down with  a damp rag to get the dust off and  promptly relearned the lesson - dont scrape or sand damp wood !

 

Need to do some measuring against the stern post to get that aft edge to the right width.

 

Then next step is to clear my work area of all the lime strip bits and pieces and nails and clamps.... and et ect

 

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Ahh - stern keel thinning.

I had decided that, since the area involved was quite small, I would do all the thinning at the present stage.

Fine - but I had forgotten I had gone to 1.5mm lime for first planking and also quite how thin (3mm) the keel ply was on this kit.

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So a bit more wood to remove than I was planning - 6mm width to go down to about 2  mm or a bit less.

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You will note the obligatory blood spatters which mark my use of edged tools !

Edited by SpyGlass
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Posted (edited)

It may get worse - I have just done a few experiments with a powered  " mouse" sander.  A slight slip and ....

 

But actually - good heavens it worked - I was very fearful of gouging out great chunks of strip but it turned out to be very controllable - using  120 grit.

Cheap model and is a bit bulky but seems to do the job

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Only problem is the dust - it has a built in  " suck through base into filter" which seems to work fine but i can still see a dust haze - think i would be best doing this external and with a better mask

Edited by SpyGlass
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Posted (edited)

Lots of wood to remove so decided to try the power sander - but with safe guards.

Fitted my spare temporary stern post again

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and started to power sand to bring the hull to that width as a starter

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My caution was well justified - you can see the "sacrificial" state of the temporary stern post but would have been a real nuisance job to do that by hand .

Note to self  =in future  stick to my old method of stopping first planking  just over the bearding line  - save a lot of fiddling about !

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Now a start on taking the rest off to form that stern " rabbet " for the second planking but will do that by hand. Short pause though - where DID i put that pear !  I need to check how thick it is

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by SpyGlass
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Lookin' realy good! Your planking, sanded seems to be very smooth! Good work!

 

And I have also such a smal sanding-mouse. Do you think it's worth a try for the first time builder I am? Or should I better go for the more slowly, but better to controll way, and do it all just by hands?

 

Ok, future thinking, I will need a while to finish planking at the first place... 🙂

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I think by hand is best - I have a weakness in my right arm and I used very thick strip 1.5 mm so i tried the sander and its seemed ok - but i think a much smaller sander would be better.

But with thinner strip probably by hand is safer for the first build or two. I have always till now used  a scraper instead of just sanding - usually just the edge of one of these "snap off" blades held vertically.

 

I havent actually finished sanding yet i need to get the  stern to thickess and make sure the run to that point is good and i have not really done much where the planks meet the stem at the front - that is really  a hand job.

 But at moment I am still searching for my pear !!

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 I got a bit obsessive about getting the stern thinning right  . Looking through the manual I saw a pieces of wood 1.5 mm thick ( gun carriages etc)   - Euraka - cut a strip off.

Placed my metal dowels into the  predrilled keel to get it straight. IMG_2473.thumb.JPG.b53c26aaa385039591ba0c85a0795848.JPG

predrilled a few 0.6 holes through the width of the 1.5 mm. IMG_2475.thumb.JPG.03cbcb43001faccdecb068924663e83e.JPG

Bitt of packing -

 

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there  we are -  thin down to that strip !!

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Posted (edited)

 

 

Many kits now use MDF for keel and bulk head sections this gets over the problem of ply keels warping - all good. 

But though many users claim to have had no problems with MDF I have had a lot of problems with my limited experience of its use.

I may have just been unlucky with the sample I had but ...

 

First MDF is affected by moisture and it can be significant, I attach the pics

First I took a section of a bulk head from my first essay at the Speedy kit.  Measured it  - place it in water for less than three hours and repeated - the results are evident

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and the piece came apart  like soggy cardboard

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So dont get your MDF too wet.

 

It is not very resistant to stress  - small bits break much more easily than ply

And it sands less crisply than ply - and of course the dust is more of a hazard

 

I found that MDF doesnt hold a pin as well as ply - with or without pilot hole.

 

And it was a revelation that MDF has a sort of grain - you can see it in the above picture and I came acros it when i drilled a hole in what a thought was a totally uniform substance     

mdf1.jpg.8178a393e81374cd10fe878e2f7bd2e2.jpgmdf2.jpg.7f080ee1f6b2136fe79ed8061a8a1b4c.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

Edited by SpyGlass
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