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Spray by Josh Williamson - FINISHED - Bluejacket Shipcrafters - 3/8" = 1' - Joshua Slocum's yawl

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New here to the forum, and new to the model ship building world.  I have been a sailor for several years and have increasingly grown more fond of anything and everything related to sailing, and life at sea.  I lived on my sailboat for a couple years in Seattle, WA and have had the opportunity to sail abroad on some fantastic journeys in the North Sea, Ionian Sea and Dalmatian Coast.  Before COVID hit, I was set to do a charter in French Polynesia with some family and good friends.   Always looking for more opportunities to get out on the water under sail...


Now on to genesis of starting this model:

About every year or so for the last decade, I would pick up my copy of Joshua Slocum's "Sailing Alone Around the World," and lose myself in the fantastic story of his solo circumnavigation of the globe.  I found myself gravitating towards his story when times were stressful, work was unrelenting, or when my mind just simply needed somewhere else to be.   The telling of his journey is so astonishing in some respects that it can almost be from the pages of a  Jules Verne story.  I wondered about the things he saw at night under the stars, and pondered those long crossings on open water.   Since reading "Sailing Alone", I have been fascinated with the Spray, and the almost mythical qualities of it being able to hold a course over many nautical miles.  This seemed like a great first build, and I am excited to share the progress.  (As an aside, I only later noticed that the kit is labeled 
"Admiral" level on the build complexity. Not that it would change my approach to the build, but I plan to move slowly and carefully.  I am hoping that my architectural model building experience will help...)  


* Before starting the kit, I read up on other's build logs of the same (and similar) kits.  Some of my methodology was borrowed from others, whereas other techniques were adapted from my own experimentation and trial and errors. 


Here is my documentation of Days 1 and 2 of building the model: Upon receiving and opening the kit, I surveyed the parts list and took out the plans and booklet. I read the instruction book once (and probably a bit more), and perused the 2 plan pages on the kitchen table every evening for a few days.  I removed the laser cut keel first, and marked the centerlines of each frame as well as the WL marks. 


1.  I set out to make a cradle for the Spray which would hold her at correct position relative to the waterline.  All of the bulkheads (except for 12) are perpendicular in this position.  I wanted to be able to remove the Spray from the cradle and return it to correct alignment , so I built little blocks that elevated the stem and stern accordingly.  Using a scrap piece of particle board and two aluminum angle metals, some machine screws and wing nuts, the loose angle is "clamped" into the fixed one.  This gives a sturdy base to work from.  Testing the angle of the keel, I placed a level about the waterline marks and made sure the bubble was centered.  It was.  (NOTE: Prior work ensured that my desk was also level and true). Cradle for Spray, leveling about the waterline


2.  Test fitting bulkheads, I made a small T-square that I used to make sure the position was correct relative to the waterline.  Most of the bulkheads fit just right, whereas 3 or 4 needed a small paper shim to get snug.  

Squaring up the bulkheads relative to the WL


3.  After reading some other build logs of the same model, I chose to install the stanchions to bulkeads PRIOR to decking.   (The instructions prefer doing this after the sub-decking install because this method better approximates how Slocum raised the gunwales to make the Spray more seaworthy).    I measured each stanchion from the plans (giving a little extra height at the top that can be cut off if need be), and glued them to the forward face of each bulkhead.  Before gluing in place, I rounded edges  to better accept the future planking..  A little bit of guess work on the correct bevel of the edges, but I assume I can finesse this a bit more later.  

First bulkhead (#2), in place


4. Working forward to aft, each bulkhead was glued and while the glue set, I checked the "true-ness" relative to the waterline as well as to the keel.  

 Bulkheads, perpendicular to WL and to keel


5.  I cut and dry fit the center stringer, and well as curved a thin batten near the sheer line of the bulkheads to look for any anomalies which would make the planking more difficult.  The center stringer is running quite straight, but I did notice a small curve to port at the stern where meeting the transom.  I will make a center mark that is adjusted so that when I am fitting the sub-decking  I will have a better idea of the true center-line.

Note small curve to port at transom section of laser cut keel


That's it for now.  Next installment... prep for planking, affixing transom panels.




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Here is documentation on Day 3 of my "Spray" build:


1.  I installed the transom pieces as indicated (labeled Transom 1 and Transom 2).  Added a little bit of reinforcing with the leftover deck stringer pieces for more adhesion area.



2.  Attempting the mast seat next, I carefully measured the distance between frames 4 and 5 and transferred that dimension to the basswood sheet using calipers.  The plans show a width of 1", so I cut out that rectangle and marked the center line for the 5/16" diameter hole for the mast seat.  Drilled, and SNAP!  A better method is to drill the hole first, and then cut out the desired shape.  Did just that, and fit the piece into its respective place.  



3.   I am prepping the subdeck next, which as others have noted, is premature to what the plans would indicate.  In the booklet, the planking is to go on first, followed by the deck buildup.  I like the idea of adding some rigidity to the hull before attempting the planking.  Nevertheless, I fit the port side subdeck first and made many small adjustments in the small slots that let in the multiple ribs.  When I had a proper alignment with the leading edge and the centerline, I glued and clamped.  



4.  NOTE:  I would imagine that most modelers soak the subdeck prior to fitting (?)...not sure.  What I found made the basswood sheet more pliable was to score some small grooves on the underside of the laser cut pieces so as to allow for more pliability into the intended shape.  I carefully (and gradually) bent the piece and kept dry-fitting until it sat more or less in it's spot with the hint of the proper curve.  The starboard sheet had to be lightly sanded at the centerline seam edge to be let in snuggly.  



 ** Before doing the deck, I glued some forward cleats in place that would assist in the planking process for the sharp curve at the bow.  (Upon looking at this image, I am wondering if I am using too much glue??  Perhaps some with a keen eye may be able to advise on that based on how much "glue bleed is visible."  When I have made models previously (albeit architectural in nature), I was always taught to use as little glue as possible.




Next installment: shape the mast, start planking.  



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Documentation on Day 4 Spray build:


1.  Using a drill  in a mini-lathe setup, I gently sanded the taper into the mast.  Comparing with the 1:1 scale  on the plans, it looks to be in the range.





2.  Starting the planking process, I am using the method seen in many other builds on this forum: soaking planks and bending using modified binder clips.  I let them dry to the correct shape, and then apply glue before permanently affixing. 


Note: I see one 1/8" support  that is short and I will need to glue a piece on top to achieve the correct height.  Perhaps here is the downside to not installing the 1/8" ribs after the planking is in (as the plans recommend).  Lesson learned. 



A bit of a short post today... will need to get more time in the shop this next week. 


Until then -


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Documentation on my Day 5 of Bluejacket Shipcrafters 3/8" = 1' scale model "Spray" build:


1.  The plans would have you start with two 3/32" x 1/4" strips of planking starting at the sheer line and working down.  After two courses, transitioning to a smaller plank width to better facilitate the sharper bends of the hull.   The method I found myself using (which worked well I think), was to pre-soak the planks in a tray of water (holding down the plank pieces with a glass) for about an hour.  I would then bend and pre-fit the piece and clamp or clip in place.  I would then spin the model around to the other side to do the same respective section (and process) there.  By the time that I would have that piece placed and drying, the first section on opposite side was dry and ready to glue and permanently fix.  I worked back and forth like that to place the first two larger sections of top-most planking and the first few sections of the smaller planking. 




2.  Once these five sections of planking were satisfactorily glued in place, I decided to start up from the keel and  "meet in the middle."  (This will be detailed in my next segment. 




3.  Overall, I am fairly pleased with the planking so far, although there are sections right away that I can see will need some putty and plenty of sanding time.  Being as this is a painted hull scenario, I believe the overall look will be acceptable.  I imagine finding the right balance of sanding and puttying will be important so as to not lose the look of the construction of the hull, but to also eliminate the major shape deficiencies. 


Below is my progress at end of Day 5:


Until next time - 


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Hello again-


Getting caught up on my last couple days of build  (I had some more time to dedicate to the model).


Day 6 of the "Spray" build :


1.  As described previously, I started a small plank at the keel and then proceeded to placing the wide planks midway between the bottom of keel and sheer line.  This gave me a better idea about the spacing and where stealer planks would be needed.   Again, using the same procedure as I did before, I would soak some planks for about an hour...start on one side, and then do the same respective piece on the other side.  Prefit, clamp, set with glue, clamp, repeat...  A little bit of trial and error on some sections (and I am sure there are some areas that could have been done cleaner); nonetheless I think the general shape is where it needs to be. 




2.  Over the course of about 4 hours, I was able to complete the hull and start examining the areas that would need more attention.  I did a fairly thorough sand at 80 grit to start shaping spots where the planks edges didn't quite sit as snug to the bulkheads as wanted.   I followed up with another sand at 120 grit.  Mixing a bit of basswood sawdust and some Titebond wood glue, I made a putty and filled the lower areas.


At this stage, I also removed the small pieces I had near bow to assist in terminating the planking at the stem. As well, sanded and eased the keel and stem to give a more realistic shape (removing sharp edges of lasercut material). 






3.  Allowing the wood glue to start drying, I flipped over the model and decided to put some attention towards the deck: more specifically, cutting and affixing the margin planking and pre-fitting the lasercut decking material.  


NOTE: On placing the mast, I found that the location of the mast step as that transferred from the plan, as well  as the corresponding hole cut out in deck plan, resulted in an overall lean forward to the mast.  I measured and determined I needed to enlarge the hole towards aft, and then glue a little wedge to keep the mast at the correct "slight lean towards aft" position.  Knowing that the finished deck will cover up the larger-than-needed hole, I decided this wouldn't be an issue.  Nevertheless, you will see that the hole in subdeck is a bit larger and elongated than what would be ideal. 




4. The location of the stanchions I found were generally too far inboard so as not to allow for a continuous margin plank as designed (see above and below images).  I can see one more reason now as to adhere to the model instructions on installing the stanchions post-subdeck install.  But moving along, I carefully cut the margin plank as tightly as I could. 


NOTE:  Before gluing the margin plank down, I decided it would be a good idea to paint the stanchions white (thinking it would be progressively more difficult to access them as the finished decking and bulwarks assembly get installed).  Additionally, I chose to paint the grey primer on and around the margin plank areas so that any areas either showing between the plank (or where deck meets margin may not be perfect), there would not be raw basswood.




5.  I pre-fit the finished deck material and had to make some very small trimmings to the aft side and the adjoining edge down the center (noting more than 1/32" of an inch.

I chose to stain the deck with a Varathane penetrating wood stain "Early American."  After that dried, I followed up with a coat of urethane spar varnish.



NOTE:  One thing I noticed was that the two deck pieces are cut from different basswood sheets, and the starboard section has taken the stain much differently that the port side.  You will see in the below picture that there is some blotchiness near the mid sections of the starboard deck.  I am hoping that with the cabins and other deck accoutrements installed, this will be less noticeable.  The port section, however, looks great in my opinion.  (I am still deciding on whether I want to put a grey putty in the deck seams as the instructions would have me do.  I have some time to decide on that as I will be painting the hull first before installing decking).




6.  Lastly, I did some color tests with the kit-provided options, and there wasn't one that I much liked.  Instead, I decided that what looked best was a Minwax Natural 209 (something I already had).  I believe I will use this and a coat of urethane spar varnish for all spars and masts.  


NOTE:  You will see below the little wedge I needed to install to set the mast at the proper rake aft as mentioned above in Number 3.  



That's a wrap on a long day!  

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Taking shape!  A lot of progress. Interesting in how the two sides of the deck took the stain differently.  Did you try a little surface sanding on each, or is it really just a different piece of wood?  Port looks cleaner, but starboard doesn't look bad, as it implies a working deck.  Maybe just getting them looking more alike - which might mean looking a little more "used" on the port would be the best way to go.  Just thinking out loud.  Thanks for the on the go commentary on why and where to follow the instructions.

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19 hours ago, Friday Dog said:

 Did you try a little surface sanding on each, or is it really just a different piece of wood?

Thanks Friday Dog - this has been a fun process with lots of trial and error!  I did try sanding the starboard section down a bit, but it was more about the softer grain of the piece than anything.  Plus, the more sanding, the more the lasercut deck grooves start to disappear.  It seems as with the pieces curing a bit more that the darker areas have lightened up.  The biggest dissimilarities are at the centerline - and fortunately, the two cabins, dinghy, water barrels and steering gear will all help to cover this seam.

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Hello again-


Getting caught up on some further work developments with "Spray."  The below work concluded my Day #8 of working on this kit:


1.  Where I left off prior, I had just formed the bowsprit and knightheads.  After receiving their coat of flat white paint (included with the optionally purchased paints kit), those were fit and glued. ( I did check the alignment of the bowsprit with a small string down the centerline of the boat and to transom prior to gluing.  Followed up with the "eyeball test" and all looked correct.)


2.  Next, moving on to gunwales...  


Per the section detail on plans, the vertical courses of the gunwales are made up of 1/16 x1/16" strip, followed next by 1/16 x 3/32.  I seem to have somehow inverted this and now have a slightly different plank spacing... nonetheless, the overall height corresponds to the plan and I think this will be ok.  the only place this mistake could be noticeable is that the scupper may be a bit taller than intended.  





3.  Moving slowly, I finally get to the rails that define the gunwale height:





NOTE: I have sanded and filled the hull probably three times now; I have also sprayed a flat white primer in between sanding to help even out gaps, transition less-than-perfect joinery and overall give the impression of a smooth hull.  While I think it needs some work yet, I think it's getting there.  Perhaps it's the brushes I am using, but the brushed work is leaving visible strokes larger than I think looks believable at this scale.  I am preferring the sprayed approach, and will seriously consider an airbrush for future work at this scale and smaller.  





4.  Further work on the top rail seen below.  I will let this soaked piece set overnight, and get to the gluing of it another day.  



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On 10/12/2020 at 9:09 AM, Friday Dog said:

Nice progress.  Starting to look seaworthy.  Have you thought of thinning your primer?



I did try this on my latest modeling day.  Used some thinner with the copper hull paint specifically - and it did help quite a bit with the flow and coverage.  A little bit goes a long way!

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Here is some documentation on Days 9 and 10 for my "Spray" build:


1.  Fashioned the capstan and prefit just aft of the knightheads.  Gave a quick coat of flat black and let dry, then glue. 


NOTE: You will notice the portion of deck I removed when I had to enlarge the mast opening.  These pieces I have kept safe in a little container, and I will glue them in once the mast gets seated permanently.  One thing I will implement for next build will be a systematic method of storing all the small kit pieces (I am thinking something like a tackle box or pill containers.  I have kept the pieces in the bag they came in, but as I open up some pouches to remove pieces, there are others that fall out.  Lesson learned - will need to be more organized next time.  So far, nothing lost though. 







2.  With the caprail and gunwales installed, I found some areas that needed to be filled and sanded a few times.  Similarly, the hull required 4-5 fill/sand iterations before being sufficiently smooth.  There are still some imperfections I am sure, but I do think the overall look is believable.  NOTE: The rub rail extends onto the bowsprit...




This is a shorter report for today - next entry will be a little lengthier.  


Until next time-




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Day 11 of the build:


1.  Was working on assembling the main boom jaws, and took to sanding them to a more curved and believable shape.  Snap!!  (They are quite delicate)...so needed to re-glue and re-affix.  Below, you can still make out where the crack is.  Before any final assembly of the boom, I will get after the jaws opening with a small sand paper and jewelers file to smooth out this area.  




2.  Unfortunately, my rudder encountered a similar fate as it cracked in half as I removed it from the clamp that was holding it while gluing the rudder post to it.  I had to trace another rudder out of scrap and start over.  Over some fussing around with the small dowel that attaches to the rudder, I was able to get it mounted to the gudgeon and glue in place.  Also, below you can see some prep starting for the copper bottom paint. 


Although I didn't get a picture of it, I established the waterline again by making measurements on the plans and then transferring tick marks to the hull.  Then "connected the dots" with the blue painters tape.




3.  After one more fine sand of the hull below the waterline, I started with the bottom copper paint.  Found the paint to be quite viscous (perhaps because the shop is starting to be a bit cool); so as alluded to in a previous post, added some mineral spirits to the paint cap and mixed in a bit of the paint.  I found with a couple drops of spirits to about a 1/2 tsp of paint to be a good mix.  I applied two full coats to the hull and let to dry. 



4.  While waiting for paint to dry, I focused some attention on the cabins.  I found the pieces (which are laser-cut), to nicely mate with each other.  One addition made was to make a base which fit inside the interior walls of the cabins to allow for more rigidity and also more gluing surface area.  Below, you can see the base and access opening made for the larger cabin.  Was also experimenting with placing a small piece of acrylic at the portholes to simulate glass.  NOTE: This was before I realized there were diecast porthole inserts that are supposed to be installed.  I since removed these plastic "windows," sanded out the hole a bit and installed the diecast porthole frames...then put in new plastic for the glazing.    



Where the roofs curve down towards the vertical wall plane, I scored some small lines at 1/8" increments to allow for an easier time bending.  That coupled with a short soak, made the basswood sheet pliable enough to make the curve easily.  IMG_5391.thumb.JPEG.c76e6e3558a8798065d28acdbd0f8c45.JPEG


Working from the center of the cabin roof, applying small amounts of glue and working towards the curves seemed to be a good strategy.  Once the walls had been glued, I wrapped and braced the cabin with some painters tape and clamps:



There was a little bit of trimming necessary at the bottom of the cabin where the walls met the base.  No more than 1/8" was needed to be trimmed from each side.  Trimming out the hatch covers, rail and casing was with 1/16" x 1/16" stock...  Then some white paint...








5.  After some time working on the cabins, I found the copper hull paint to be dry.   Seemed like a good time to start prepping for the black boottop line at water line...  The instructions called for a 3/16" thick line, but I opted to go for a thinner line, so mine is 1/8".   I admit I tried a few different types of tape before I settled on normal electrical tape (albeit yellow).  When using the blue painters tape originally, it just didn't make the fine curves like I wanted.  The electrical tape worked well, and only used the blue tape to reinforce at certain areas.  NOTE: Make sure that the leading edge of the tape is REALLY stuck to the surface.  I had a bubble at one area that bled through which needed to be touched up.  Overall, the electrical tape did well, and the overall effect is to my satisfaction.  IMG_5397.thumb.JPEG.a1317a961222f876873424b7eb9a01f1.JPEG




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Day 12 build log:


1.  Finally got to setting the mast.  Took some final measurements on the correct rake aft, and placed a small wedge in the enlarged deck hole to correctly position.  (Recall from previous posts that my original deck hole placed the mast in a slight forward-leaning position.  Needed to enlarge the hole towards aft to correctly position). IMG_5405.thumb.JPEG.4439d36ff8a777a93dbe0c51374eb21b.JPEG




2.  Next, per the instructions, is to assemble the steering gear.  The parts are small and rather delicate, so it just takes some time to get things right.  I chose to paint all wood components gray primer as the instructions would suggest; although I have seen some images of Spray that make it look as if Slocum had all of this painted white.  The tiller control line was "weathered" by staining it on a pad with Minwax "Early American."  This I found, makes for a more realistic hemp rope look.  The brass dowel was soaked in some Sculpt Nouveau blackening solution, and the wheel painted flat black with rattle can.  IMG_5410.thumb.JPEG.def7a551ed2032bafde38dd63a1622b9.JPEG











3.  With this steering gear, there were some lessons learned.  Admittingly, I had some issues with rigging the stropped blocks on either side of the rope controls.  The wire that was supplied with the kit was too large to correctly strop, so I simply tried to glue the block down and tension the tiller line.  Not surprisingly, this pulled out every time.  In an effort to get this piece rigged and completed, I made a solution where I drilled two vertical pins  through the cap rail and down to a support abutting the stanchions to catch the tiller lines.  The serves as a structurally sound solution, albeit not a completely accurate representation of the true rigging mechanics.  I may attempt to "cheat in" a block to visually approximate the more accurate condition.  For now, this keeps me moving forward.  


NOTE: the aft most end of the barrel tiller control is meant to sit below the taffrail.  Something in my measurements made this support piece higher than the taffrail - thus not allowing it to sit fully aft where it wants to be.  Consequently, the whole steering gear sit forward of their intended location about 3/16" of an inch.  With the aft cabin in its correct position, it is a bit crowded it seems.  I will choose to split the difference on the clearance required at wheel and the clearance between cabins (where dinghy sits).  The location of the forward cabin is pretty much determined based upon the mast and belaying rack, so there is not much I can do there to buy some space.  


** Below is a completed image of steering gear.  Before gluing in place, I gave the deck surface a clean with some mineral spirits and recoated with a fresh layering of the "gloss" varnish supplied with the kit. 



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Really enjoying your posts Josh, and great work!  You're at a point where you are passing me, and moving at a much faster pace.  Now I get to learn from your challenges and good work. I finished the cap rail, got a few coats of paint on the rails and hull, and this morning I glued in the waterways (or margin planks). I will do another post within the next week or so.  Your blog is in the correct forum--1850 to 1900.  When they changed the forums around, mine got put incorrectly into post 1900 for some reason.


Incidentally, my mask rake seems to have worked out correctly when locating the hole as shown in the plans.  The rake is definitely forward relative to the deck (which slopes upward at that point), but it is slightly aft relative to the waterline.  


Looking forward to more of your posts.



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Nice work Josh


I was Lucky enough to get the Laughing Whale version of what appears to be this same kit from Ron here on the forum. I have known of Joshua Slocum and the Spray since my teen years when I read his book "Sailing Alone Around The World", and it made me a life long fan.


I will be following Tom's and your builds with considerable interest.

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21 hours ago, Tomculb said:

Really enjoying your posts Josh, and great work!  You're at a point where you are passing me, and moving at a much faster pace.  Now I get to learn from your challenges and good work. I finished the cap rail, got a few coats of paint on the rails and hull, and this morning I glued in the waterways (or margin planks). I will do another post within the next week or so.  Your blog is in the correct forum--1850 to 1900.  When they changed the forums around, mine got put incorrectly into post 1900 for some reason.


Incidentally, my mask rake seems to have worked out correctly when locating the hole as shown in the plans.  The rake is definitely forward relative to the deck (which slopes upward at that point), but it is slightly aft relative to the waterline.  


Looking forward to more of your posts.



Thanks much Tom!  I have enjoyed reading your posts, and have learned a lot from them.  I look forward to seeing your progress as of late!  The rigging and sail-making are going to be challenges for me, so I will definitely be reaching out to you an others for feedback regarding those tasks!  I'll post another update soon by the way.   Best, Josh

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8 hours ago, lmagna said:

Nice work Josh


I was Lucky enough to get the Laughing Whale version of what appears to be this same kit from Ron here on the forum. I have known of Joshua Slocum and the Spray since my teen years when I read his book "Sailing Alone Around The World", and it made me a life long fan.


I will be following Tom's and your builds with considerable interest.

Thanks for the interest in the build Lou!  

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Posting for my Days #13 and #14 of the Bluejacket "Spray" build:


1.  The previous build day concluded with completion of the cabins as well as the steering gear.  The belaying rack is attached to the forward wall of the forward cabin, and fits around the mast.  I thought it would be easier to build this piece first on its own, then attach to the cabin, then slide the whole thing over the mast.  But first, I needed to spend some time shaping the bottom of the cabin to mate well with the deck. What I found was that both cabins were rocking back and forth from a generally high point along the center of the deck.  What was needed was a good sanding starting in the center of the cabins and gradually working outward.  Lots of test fitting, and in one place on the forward cabin, I placed a small strip shim to bring up one edge.  Below is a picture of the completed belaying rack (the brass pins were soaked in a blackening solution).  Per the instructions, I made the vent pipe out of 1/8" dowel and small piece of construction paper. 




NOTE: I got to this stage, and was just about to glue the cabin in and started looking at some reference photos of Spray.  I found this one picture below of Slocum standing at capstan and noticed the mast had a substantial seat for the boom jaws that look to be rope-lined and painted white below the seat.  I wanted to replicate this as best as I could, and needed to do this before sliding the cabin/belaying rack over the mast.  So, that was the next task..


To do this, I cut a small circle out of 3/16" thick scrap basswood, and made a 5/16" hole in the middle.  I sanded with a small file until it sit snug at the approximate height on the mast.  Wrapped a few turns of stained line above the seat, and painted the lower areas white.  Below is the final result, and my attempt to recreate the same perspective from the Slocum photo.  







Here is the completed forward cabin.




2.  I will be moving forward with assembling the aft supports necessary for the mizzen mast rigging after the cabins are installed.  I took some time to put one more coat of spar varnish on the mizzen mast, mizzen boom and gaff.  The hole in yoke that supports the mizzenmast needed to be drilled out a bit for the correct fit.  (A step drill bit would be smart here, but I just gradually worked up in 1/32" increments to the appropriate size.  The worry here if you're not careful is you could easily bend the metal if your drill catches too much material).  The wishbone and yoke are painted white and ready to install.  Below is my prep area for these parts (you can also see the little blackening bath I made for the brass parts).





3.  Placing the aft cabin was much the same process (less the belaying rack).  I found the cabin needed sanding in the center to fit a bit more snugly to the deck. 




4.  In the meantime, I just received this small engraved plaque I ordered for the future mounting plate.

I am sure there are many others sites that can make these, but this was from the EnMEngraving company:





5.  Shaping the brace brackets that support tie brackets (cut from 1/8" thick basswood).IMG_5429.thumb.JPEG.390601b22013e8394ab40abaae29dfd0.JPEG



6.  Like others have commented, there is no real description of how the wishbone is to be installed to the transom, so I just assumed it should be glued.  To do this, I used a soldering station "helping hands" to clamp and hold the part down.  I applied glue and let set for some time.  If this proves not hold tight, I will look at cutting some grooves into the taffrail that would fit the wishbone arms and provide more structural holding for the piece.  We will see...


*Also below in this picture is the main sheet traveler, built and bent from the brass rod supplied.  The instructions tell to paint white, but I like the look of the blackened brass in this case.  





7. Test fitting the mizzen mast...some small adjustments to the angle of the yoke needed.  I double checked the distances from the centerline base of main mast to mizzen (at top and bottom), and found them to be within 1/8" of what the plans indicate.  Relative to the waterline, the mizzenmast appears to be 90 degrees (perpendicular), whereas the main mast has a slight rake aft. 



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Day #15-A


In preparation for rigging blocks and lines, I took some inventory of what was included in the kit, and decided to purchase some additional materials.  I found the thinner of the thread included with the kit would serve well for standing rigging (dipped in some ebony stain to mimic a tarred look).  The larger thread included, I don't think I will use on this kit.


This post will be the first of two documenting Day 15 of my "Spray" build, this one focusing on fittings.


For halyards and sheets, I purchased some .30mm tan thread from Syren Ship Model company, along with some .2mm for seizing.  Below are the pictures of the packages and reverse, the corresponding picture of what was included. 




The diecast blocks that come with the kit are definitely workable, but after experimenting with some small single blocks (also from Syren), I am choosing to proceed with rigging using those wood blocks only.   I will probably apply a light stain to the block and blacken the annealed wire.  Below are some examples of the wood vs. diecast blocks (wood ones using 34ga stainless wire).






Below, showing applying seizing to the large dock line.  Using alligator clip to hold things in place.  Using methods as described by J Brent on his YouTube tutorials: 


Further below, the final product after being stained (i.e. "weathered") with some wood stain






And completed:




For all chain used on the model (at bowsprit and larger chain for anchor), I blackened with a solution prior to fitting.

Below is my blackening process, with finished product below.  





Using thin 34ga jeweler's wire, made a small loop in the hull-mounted pad eye for connecting the chains at bowsprit.  Same method with connecting to the eye band loops at the forward tip of bowsprit.



I left some length on the tail ends of the wire for re-tensioning at eye band should I need to later.  I will clean up the tip of bowsprit and paint over any remaining wire upon completing the rigging.



Below, completed anchor and chain, ready to be stashed away safely until the model is completed...












Edited by Josh Williamson
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  • Josh Williamson changed the title to Spray by Josh Williamson - FINISHED -Bluejacket Shipcrafters - 3/8" = 1' - Joshua Slocum's yawl
  • ccoyle changed the title to Spray by Josh Williamson - FINISHED - Bluejacket Shipcrafters - 3/8" = 1' - Joshua Slocum's yawl

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