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Golden Hind by JAKE.FOGEL - Constructo - 1:55 Scale


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Hello
First build pob build here. Iv done a couple solid hull mamoli kits fairly easily but ready to move on

Now that iv opened the box I'm a bit overwhelmed but I'm committed lol
Any help and advice would be much appreciated
I will do my best to keep a detailed log

 

the bulkheads are very loose tho. Are they supposed to be that way?

my ceiling fan is moving them lol

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Welcome aboard.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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Welcome to Model Ship World Jake.  You did the right thing by starting a build log for your kit.  The bulkheads may be loose, but be sure that they are properly seated in the false keel and that they are at right angles to the keel.  This is a very important part of the build, so take it slow.  I would use a PVA glue (yellow glue) to set the bulkheads and make sure the glue has set on the bulkhead you are inserting before moving to the next bulkhead.  Good luck on your build and be sure to ask if you have any questions.  We are here to help you be successful with your first build.

Ryland

 

Member - Hampton Roads Ship Model Society

            - Ship Model Society of New Jersey

               - Nautical Research Guild

       

 

Current Build - Armed Virginia Sloop, 18th Century Longboat

Completed Build - Medway Longboat

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question 

Normally this deck is not bent. Are you sure nothing is wrong.
Now you can still adjust this if necessary

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Greetings 

Patrick

 

Regards, Patrick

 

Finished :  Soleil Royal Heller 1/100   Wasa Billing Boats   Bounty Revell 1/110 plastic (semi scratch)   Pelican / Golden Hind  1/45 scratch

Current build :  Mary Rose 1/50 scratch

Gallery Revell Bounty  Pelican/Golden hind 1/45 scratch

To do Prins Willem Corel, Le Tonnant Corel, Yacht d'Oro Corel, Thermopylae Sergal 

 

Shore leave,  non ship models build logs :  

ADGZ M35 funkwagen 1/72    Einhets Pkw. Kfz.2 and 4 1/72   Autoblinda AB40 1/72   122mm A-19 & 152mm ML-20 & 12.8cm Pak.44 {K8 1/2} 1/72   10.5cm Howitzer 16 on Mark. VI(e)  Centurion Mk.1 conversion   M29 Weasel 1/72     SAM6 1/72    T26 Finland  T26 TN 1/72  Autoprotetto S37 1/72     Opel Blitz buses 1/72  Boxer and MAN trucks 1/72   Hetzer38(t) Starr 1/72    

 

Si vis pacem, para bellum

 
 
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Can happen to anyone, noticed just in time.

If you only know what I've already had to rebuild on my models :blush:

Regards, Patrick

 

Finished :  Soleil Royal Heller 1/100   Wasa Billing Boats   Bounty Revell 1/110 plastic (semi scratch)   Pelican / Golden Hind  1/45 scratch

Current build :  Mary Rose 1/50 scratch

Gallery Revell Bounty  Pelican/Golden hind 1/45 scratch

To do Prins Willem Corel, Le Tonnant Corel, Yacht d'Oro Corel, Thermopylae Sergal 

 

Shore leave,  non ship models build logs :  

ADGZ M35 funkwagen 1/72    Einhets Pkw. Kfz.2 and 4 1/72   Autoblinda AB40 1/72   122mm A-19 & 152mm ML-20 & 12.8cm Pak.44 {K8 1/2} 1/72   10.5cm Howitzer 16 on Mark. VI(e)  Centurion Mk.1 conversion   M29 Weasel 1/72     SAM6 1/72    T26 Finland  T26 TN 1/72  Autoprotetto S37 1/72     Opel Blitz buses 1/72  Boxer and MAN trucks 1/72   Hetzer38(t) Starr 1/72    

 

Si vis pacem, para bellum

 
 
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Looking through the planks I think that I still see all the laser char on the bulkheads. Did you fair them?
 

The planks also look like they could have been tapered more at the bow.

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Jake, Take a look at the planking tutorials in the following post:

The various links will take you to PDF articles on planking a hull.  These articles are a great resource for beginner ship modelers as they will explain the hows and whys of planking a ship model.  As VTHokiEE said, the planks needed to be tapered at the bow.  All of this is explained in the planking articles.

 

Good luck on this build.

Ryland

 

Member - Hampton Roads Ship Model Society

            - Ship Model Society of New Jersey

               - Nautical Research Guild

       

 

Current Build - Armed Virginia Sloop, 18th Century Longboat

Completed Build - Medway Longboat

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10 hours ago, Ryland Craze said:

As VTHokiEE said, the planks needed to be tapered at the bow.

 

And probably at the stern as well. Unfortunately kit manufacturers often supply the planks the same width the whole length, when in fact their width varies right along their length to allow for the complexity of the shape of the hull. Adjusting the width is called spiling, and it needs to be done otherwise you end up with gaps between planks at some points and overlaps at others. 

 

I'd suggest you have a good read through the planking primers - take your time, until you're happy you understand them (and even then it's possible to make mistakes - don't ask me how I know), and then have another go at your planking. Don't worry - it is possible to get it right!

 

The other thing is it looks like you haven't faired your frames - that is to bevel them at the edges to follow the smooth run of the planks, so the planks rest against a surface rather than just an edge. The edges of the frames shouldn't be at right angles to the frames themselves, they should be at the appropriate angle to let the planks rest smoothly against them. (I hope that makes sense).

 

Planking is probably the most difficult job you'll have in making your model. It's worth putting in the time and study to get it right. You'll be glad you did. And ask questions - lots of questions. Plenty of experienced people here to help you.

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Jake, I really struggled with understanding the various documents, I find there to be an assumption that you know certain things and steps are skipped over or not visually explained in enough detail. I think this is one of the major issues with wooden ship building and why people don't stick around in the hobby. 

 

However, I finally found a great build log, it was for the Model Shipways 18th Century Longboat by BobF.

 

This guy has a great visual way of explaining things, he really doesn't skip a step and comes back with further information if you found any of his steps difficult to understand. 

 

I know no ships are the same but for some reason this one really hit home. 

Current Builds

Mikasa by I Love Kit - 1:200 - Plastic

HMS Beagle by Occre - 1:48 - Wood

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Ah I see the fairing now. I’m thinking that you’re at the beginning of the build and you may regret not pulling these planks off, ordering some new ones and try your hand at tapering (spiking) them. I think that it’s going to be tricky to fill though gaps on a single planked hull.

 

I read many documents on planking, watched some videos and then had a disaster on my first go through. I removed it (with great sadness and frustration, I had some sleepless nights thinking that I would never get it right) and tried again (you can see what happened to me in my build log if you’re interested). I’m glad that I took the time to redo though because I’m getting close to 10 months of work on my model and I would be disappointed with myself if I hadn’t.


If you are set on pushing forward I would heavily consider painting the hull as it can disguise and filler you end up needing.

 

 

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  • 3 months later...
On 10/9/2020 at 7:41 PM, JAKE.FOGEL said:

So I did fair the hull but it ended up being way to much as i thought it would be a good idea to use my dremel..

I'm gona stick with it and sand the ever living hell out of it as it is a single plank hull. May not look exactly as its supposed to but it's my first build and it's a learning experience 

I like your spirit!

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