Swan Class by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48

[dvm27]

I've had a couple of slices from my miniature table saw, all the result of poor techniques and not paying close enough attention. Nothing that surgical cement couldn't handle. But I don't think I'll ever get a full sized table saw.

[gjdale]

Sorry to hear of your accident. Always remember that every power tool in your workshop is actively trying to murder you!

[noel_colledge]

Hi Stuglo

I feel for you after doing the same thing myself about 4 years ago. Almost took it clean off though.

 

I now have a half working thumb with next to no feeling sensation which can be interesting at times when trying to pick things up.

 

Be thankful you only broke the surface and did not cut through any tendons, you should heal fine with a new respect for the tool.

 

Thank you for your informative build log.

 

 

Noel

[davec]

Sorry about your accident.  I used to use my 10" table saw to slice billets, but got scared away prior to having an accident. I got a 10" bandsaw with a resaw blade.  Still pretty frightening, but relatively speaking, feels way safer than the table saw.  Between that big  exposed table saw blade raised way up, potential kickback, and trying to rip two foot lengths of fairly narrow boxwood and pear which involved push sticks close to the blade, just felt dangerous.  Much easier to  rip short pieces with the bandsaw, and the kerf is narrower, so less waste.  Only time I cut myself bad enough for stitches was on the Byrnes saw with the tilting table.  Another tool to be wary of.

 

Your build is going great!  tremendous work

 

Dave

Edited November 15, 2020 by davec

[tlevine]

Sorry to hear about the accident, Stuglo.  The idea of even owning a full sized table saw scares me.  I also opted for a band saw to slice sheets off my billets.  A lot of wood gets wasted because of the tooth marks but I still have all of my fingers.

[Richard Feliciano]

I like your bow cant frame forms. Should help in setting of the frames. Hope you've recovered from your accident.

[druxey]

Push sticks are a good thing. Certainly a bandsaw is safer to use than a table saw. I've used table saws (full size and miniature) for over 40 years and still have all my digits intact. I always keep my eye on the blade and never, ever use power equipment if tired. I've unfortunately seen the results of people who have....

Edited November 18, 2020 by druxey

[stuglo]

No longer a daily blog.

Of course only having one and a half functioning hands doesn’t improve efficiency. My wife says this isn’t a race-and she is,of course correct,but I like to get things done.

There is an English expression “all fingers and thumbs” meaning clumsiness, but a non-participating thumb is worse!

Can’t help reflecting and comparing the time it takes building a scratch, framed model (and the tools and wood required) against a bulkhead kit. After 20+ models, I thought I could estimate build times. I planned the swan at 12 or 18 months (with or without masting and rigging). I must now double this , and certainly not contemplate a parallel build.

I think I mentioned that I will leave the lower (foot) bevels to later fairing. The first few I did seem to remove too much.

The jig seems to work well.Even though TFFM says the cants 8 to 12 are aligned to the half breadth line,they will also (it seems to me)follow the top timberline -but note this is “inside” the “ends”of the cants as shown on the plans.

Cant #8 has bevel 12deg.

There is a long wedge type piece between #7and #8, extending about 22mm from the top and a max. width of 4.24mm.This is made when #8 is spot glued in place, and when suitably sized, glued to #8 “off-model.

As will be seen from picture, only after this was done, did I notice that it should have extended above the upper timberline as does cants #2,#4,#6.

Another piece to remake.

This “top” is thinner-don’t know as yet how this will be resolved.

Cants #9 (10deg) and #10 (7deg) as before.

Cant #11- TFFM suggests that it is possible to make mortises now rather than later, but accuracy is critical. Given my efforts so far, I don’t think I’m up to it.

This #11 cant is made from 3 timbers, the upper one contains a “shift” or dogleg. TFFM gives alternative ways of doing this- I opted to what seems the easier “cast” method.

The lower two pieces are 4.77mm wide as before, but the upper widens to 5.83mm. The “extra” is aftwards of the cant.The deviation or transition seems to occur over a 10mm section, finishing BELOW the port. I therefore determined the bend will finish 40mm below top of piece.

To make life easier, I also used a scarf joint.

I marked out the areas to be removed roughly, as my attempt to trace a template from the shear plan was unsuccessful as mine is pretty indistinct.

I intend to mill the straight lengths and finish the bends by hand-tomorrow we will see.

[stuglo]

Finishing # 11:

The milling (remove 1mm from each side) and transition (about 10mm) by hand -seems to work OK.

Final port cant #12, 2deg bevel

The jig is not rigid, therefore can be turned over and used on starboard side(with support at 90deg. and a weighted base.The “tooth”between #7and #8 needs removing and the gap for#11 needs widening (for shift).

? Did I mention that I made the cants as pairs, port and starboard, together .

Also reminder to trunnel the “feet” of the cants. One into keel and other into neighbour.

You’ll note that the final effort looks rough, with plenty of work for “fairing”.But this cherry is soft and I hope that the final effect will be acceptable.

.The last picture is my new digital angle measure. Accurate angles are essential and my old plastic protractor has its problems.

[stuglo]

Place some crude spaces at level of timberline. Intention to remove them later, but give stability for fairing etc

Not having use of thumb is somewhat restricting.

The jig reused upside down for the starboard side seemed to work ok when reset (what was the straight floor, now is sloping at timberline level) with some weights.

When the full set of cants fitted, jig removed and the result is not as good as expected.

The main problem seems to be the angle where the timber parts are glued.

I removed a couple of the worst offenders and checked them against the printed outlines-not so easy as they obscure the plan, and the cut outs can be distorted. Opening them and re gluing made some improvement, but “gradient” between the cants, seemed excessively uneven.

Decided to remove all cants #2to#12 and check and realign joints between timbers as required.Extending lines on the plans help this alignment.

Placed each cant in turn,checked alignment at timberline and “step” to previous(neighbouring) cant, and if still too uneven, modified the angle at the join slightly.

(the black square object is one of many old batteries I’ve collected over the years-stable,heavy and reliable rt. angle.)

This time the result is much better.

Fairing by hand. Wands and literally by hand on inner aspect ( a broken belt sander-stiff). Much to remove but this cherry is relatively soft compared to the Pau Marfim that I used for Oneida.

Left final smoothing until rest of framing complete with some internal “stiffening”

Some of the small fillers separated and it would have been better to stable with a trunnel.

Returned to working in clinic and less time to browse the internet, so only now caught up with Kevin’s video no. 12 and see he run into similar problems. Considering the high quality of his work, I feel less inadequate. Thank you.

PS last week or two, temperatures here fluctuate . 2 days ago on the beach, today cold and torrential rain. Not good for wood or glue.

PPS Happy Thanksgiving to our American friends.

[dvm27]

Nice job on those fore cants so far. They are a bear to fair, especially the inner surfaces. I find that drawing lots of pencil lines along the shear helps with the fairing process. Keep remarking the lines during progressive fairings until they all disappear. This will insure you have hit all the low spots and have a fair hull. Work from the fore cants aft and I would recommend you install the first full frames (14) before completing the cant fairing. 80 grit garnet paper and a series of shaped flexible battens with sandpaper glued on really help in this area. Also, those spacers between the cants will likely pop out during the fairing process but take the time to re-glue them in place. Once you get to 5 or 6 inches molded dimension the cant tops are very fragile and you don't want to tear one out.

 

One final thing to consider regarding the extensions of the cant frames for the timberheads. If you are a talented carver and plan to shape them in place ignore the following. I amputated the timberhead extensions so I could perfectly shape the shear line where the forecastle plankshear will eventually seat. It is very difficult to carve the timberheads in place and equally difficult to achieve a fair line for the plankshear as well with them sticking up. With the timberheads not present it is very easy to get a smooth run by using a sanding stick athwartships.  The timberheads are later shaped (I used the Byrnes saw) and applied after the plankshear is in place.

 

This project is like a chess game - you need to think several moves ahead!

Edited November 27, 2020 by dvm27

[stuglo]

Excellent advice gratefully received. The "pencil" lines are obvious in retrospect but I hadn't thought of it. Genius is simplicity and innovation-you have both. Please continue keeping a watchful eye and continued input.

[stuglo]

Back to building cants-this time the aft sets.

Similar principles i.e. 4.77mm wide.

This time I want to try some new ways.

My experience with the chisel was not too successful. Now with a defective digit (injured thumb) I would think nearer to impossible.

Nevertheless, I’ll try the chocks using cut out plans, jig saw and 5in disc sander. 

Cutting out the timber plan separately with the chock section cut on the lines. The upper and lower timbers attached by rubber glue to another complete  copy of plans. The narrowing lips of the 2 pieces have a drop of PVA and the the pieces are stable to fit the chock. A chisel blade is used to create the slight angle if the plan requires it. The is made slightly oversize, the slope of side if required  and the final fit are made by removing the thinnest of slivers to size required.

Although initially against it, I tried using the 5min epoxy and it seems to work well, but it is pretty irreversible and leaves a slight stain.I don’t think it will be too noticeable when finished.

I also decided to make and fit one side at a time.

I also have left of the fairing bevels as I found that a close adherence to them when making the fore cants, created some problems with alignment.

After a try out with the 2ns and 3rd cants, it seems as if the upper timber of both 1st cants are incorrectly placed. I had broken the starboard one, twice already so made a new one. The port side was separated and adjusted-the tips of the wing transom protrude but I checked it with a plan cut out and it is ok. This may have a function which I’ve forgotten- I will have to wait and see. Greg mentions this is like a chess game in terms of planning ahead, but I did not expect such an innovative opponent !

PS In my first year of secondary school (age 11) we had a weekly woodwork lesson. Our parents had to buy an appropriate work apron. My dear mother kept mine for the next 40 years and returned it to me so I can now use it for its intended purpose.

[Richard Feliciano]

Stuart,

Couple of steps you might consider that helped me. I ran a centerline wire down the ship line to assure the frames are offset the same port and starboard. I also made template form at the 2nd lead line level and the top of frame level to keep the curvature correct. Check out my post today

[stuglo]

On 12/9/2020 at 11:38 PM, Richard Feliciano said:

Stuart,

Couple of steps you might consider that helped me. I ran a centerline wire down the ship line to assure the frames are offset the same port and starboard. I also made template form at the 2nd lead line level and the top of frame level to keep the curvature correct. Check out my post today

Just catching up today. really good ideas and will try them even though I've seen the post after initial placing of my  cants

[stuglo]

Aft cants #2-13 cont.

Finishing making of the aft cants. More adept and less removals and repositioning  . ( ? is this called RECANTING-ha! ha!) 

Regular except for #10 which as a “shift” similar to the #11 fore cant. Note the shift is directed amidships in both cases.

Also note #12 has a scarf joint instead of chock.

Also note that when trying to minimise wood waste, I layed out some templates across grain- not very clever but doesn;t appear noticeable as yet.Will replace if required when seen after initial fairing. 

You may have noticed the horror picture of me wearing my schoolboy apron. It left my upper jumper unprotected therefor still half covered in sawdust. 

The new picture is more practical and to misquote Gabriel Garcia Marquez-

“Woodworking in the age of Corona” 

(ppe 2020)

Keep well and safe everyone.

[druxey]

By the time you build your third framed model, you won't have to re-do the cant frames over at all you'll be so experienced. It will be too late to recant!

 

I notice that you tried to camouflage your bandaged thumb with the same color as your coverall. I hope it's healing  well.

[stuglo]

Framing the stem/side Counters

(TFFM mentions a 9th port- at present this would be an unnecessary complication and I’m still on chapter 2.)

The practicum gives a detailed explanation which encourages reading to the end. I don’t really understand, so I turn to Kevin’s video-he says something similar, so we go ahead and make the pieces. 

Before attempting to make the piece, a jig of some sort needs to be made to align and support the aft end, at the correct height, and angle so the pieces are separated by the correct distance. Additionally, the stem needs support to maintain the vertical 90deg position.

The hobby building slip has a vertical plan holder. By adding the stem clamp to this (with the body plan underneath)it supports the stem, the new side counter while controlling its position and angle.

Instructed to draw line parallel and 3.34cm aft of AP line on the breadth plan. This intersects with the end of the timberline and is aft position of  the pieces and the mark for the vertical plan holder. 

On the body plan, vertical lines, 3.9 cm either side of the midline are drawn and the point this intersects with the height of timberline, is marked.(A simple drawing on the page makes this very simple).

Fortunately the book gives a (correct 1/48)scale image because I spent a half an hour searching the plans.Note this is for the starboard side - it took me a while to be sure of this.

Photocopies for templates, 7.95mm blanks, and using the sanders, made the pieces in 2 stages ie dimensions.

The timber line is marked on the pieces and the inner aspect aligned to the mark on the plan (again the drawing in TFFM is self explanatory)

The “foot” needs some refining to accommodate angle of #1 cant and slope of wing transom.

This is (if only temporary)a fragile joint so I used 5min epoxy while the plan holder supports the end and vertical plane is maintained.

An additional measure is used- 9.22 cm between the 2 upper knuckles-this is checked while glue is still semi-flexible. 

Finally, if sure OK, a spall or beam is temporarily stuck to the tops for additional stability. 

PS accumulating lots of photocopies of part plans/templates. Filing them in separate plastic envelopes in a file makes for order.

[dvm27]

Nice job on those tricky timbers. Don't forget to check out the build logs of Trussben, Dan's Vulture, Toni Levine and others. They all went through the steps you are doing and have detailed build logs.

[stuglo]

Finishing side framing and Fairing same:

Just 2 short paragraphs and little explanation for what turned out to be a long and frustrating stage.

This stage includes the forming of the stern lights (window).

Position, angle and size from the framing plan.

The upper part of 1st aft cant needs to be cut off at the appropriate height (cutting a part off the hull is always traumatic for me).

An extra “limb” attached to the fore side forms the fore side of the window-the other (aft) side is one of the “fillers” that sit on the counter frame.

The upper cant frames learn forward-this slopes back and 2nd cant frame at an angle therefore cut as a blunt-ended wedge.I decided not to glue in place yet so that I could build the window on the plan before fitting.

This,like the other fillers, follow the line of the aft cants but as no patterns are available, I used wide blanks (15mm) and for the most, kept them the same thickness of the other cants.

The aft side of the window sits on the counter frame, parallel to and at a distance shown on the framing plan. The angle of the sills is also shown. 

The position of the sills marked with on the side frames-

Not clear from the plan the thickness of sills, so I guessed at 3mm lower and 2.5mm upper.

The TFFM shows a “v” shaped mortise for lower with a variant for upper joints.

I thought I’d be clever and use a “V” milling bit to a depth of 1.5 and widen the V with the chisel but with my defective thumb I found this impossible. So I cheated and used a square ended bit with a width of sills. 

 Forgive me.

The other fillers caused me more difficulty than anticipated.

Balanced on the thin counter frame they needed the small fillers at the top to be held in place while drying. Keeping alignment was anticipated thus the excessive width of the blanks.

There is also some variety of thickness-again referencing the framing plan. 

Angling correctly the “feet” was fiddly and lack of patience on my part (fatal for a modeller) caused frequent dislodging of bits.

Also an overly tight wedge between two tops, caused one of the counter frames to part from the wing transom.

This necessitated unsticking the adherent bits, realign the counter frame as before, and start again.

The PVA glue has a fast grip, but be left overnight for good adherence.

Fairing:

Because of the extra wide fillers, window frames and sills, lots to take off. So I used the hand band sander for these.

The rest of the sanding was time and effort and I’m sure any modeller is familiar with this.

Just to emphasise the need to support the work -by hand and clamped beams.

I again left the lower external fairing until keel more stable.

These stages have taken me more time and frustration than anything so far. Perhaps the designation ”filler” suggested something simple and I didn’t give the attention and respect needed

I’ll try not to repeat this mistake.(Modelling is like life-nothing is as simple as it seems)

 

[druxey]

Looks like you are winning. You'll be a while fairing, though! The first time one frames a model is the hardest, as there is no substitute for experience. It is a great exercise in patience, as you are discovering. You can look forward to an easier time on the square frames soon!

[stuglo]

On 1/1/2021 at 4:06 PM, druxey said:

"The first time one frames a model is the hardest, as there is no substitute for experience."

I fully agree. Each time I look I see mistakes and inadequate finishing.  I keep thinking whether its too late to start again or start another when the hull is finished.

[tlevine]

Keep going.  Your skills will continue to improve with practice and patience.  Whenever I look at one of my models, all I see are the flaws, not the overall beauty in the end result and the joy (frustration/angst) of its construction.

[Mike Y]

Looks like you got through that steep learning curve! I cheated and started with some midship (square) frames before approaching fore and aft. Paid in bruised knuckles, but it paid off. Starting "the right way" looks much harder

Great build, pulling up a chair!

[stuglo]

Knee of the Head 

(my dyslexic son referred to the ”elbow in his leg“ instead of knee)

The good news is that we finished chapter 2 (TFFM)!!!

This is a set of seemingly simple pieces that make up the foremost part of the ship

The gripe was easy- I had already made it when I made the stem  -not yet fitted but fortunately found in a “safe”box of bits.The blank is 5.3mm

Need  to remove from the building slip to fit these parts, which is worrying as the keel is very vulnerable. I supported it with a large piece of sponge.

This, and other parts abutting the stem, have “felt”-black paper- filling the joint.

The next pieces, chock, cutwater,lacing piece and bobstay piece are cut  out from 5.3mm blanks.Here I cut on the pattern line, and the pieces fit well.

Note the TFFM comment on the line of upper curve of lacing piece-a faint line under upper cheek,where it joins the extension piece.

The pieces at various angles to the grain and joined by “black” glue (PVA+charcoal) - the contrast looks better this way. 

Dry fit to the curve of the stem, with adjustments as necessary- a few light touches with the spindle sander was effective.

Bobstay holes and gammoning slot as shown, with milling piece #56

The combined piece needs tapering -from 5.3 to 2.12 mm at top of bobstay piece- the top of lacing pieces only to 3.18mm.That is from below, above and aft, forward  .

As before, I did this by cutting a pattern of this taper and sticking this to the fore curve.

Tapering by alternate sanding on stati sanding board.

A small imperfection in the wood was noted on the bobstay piece but I expected that this would be removed with the taper. Instead it grew like some cancerous iceberg.No camouflaging this.

(Of course the piece with the extra work-holes and slot)

Remove and, of course, the cutwater was damaged, and this also had to be remade.

Another lesson I must remember- don’t waste time on suspect material.

When satisfied with taper, glue felt for joint to stem.

More mistakes- didn’t allow for thickness of felt and didn’t notice thoat snug fit caused the the gripe to lift away.

Reset and the felt removed , some sanding to allow for felt in joint.And reattached.

Glue reinforced with wooden trunnels from aft aspect of stem. These are limited because the thin drill bits are short. 

Augmented adhesion with rubber band and S@@$%T- all slipped off, taking gripe with it.

Again clean all up (paper and glue is messy) and try again- this time with copper wire trunnels from front and back- and finger pressure. Ensure alignment with string midline from top of building slip supports for and aft.

? How to improve bond when using the intervening paper- wood is not being glued directly to wood.

While setting, made the last 2 upper pieces- standard and extension pieces.

These are thinner , 3.71 tapering to 3.18 (matching top of lacingpiece). Added the hole (larger, use #52) and the aft gammoning slit.

Fitted them separately, but perhaps would have been easier to glue together before final shaping.

Used coloured glue for joint-not sure if this was ok join to stem, but sick of using the black paper.

Difficult to clean up-was frightened of breaking it off.

 

[stuglo]

Need help/advice

Now making the the square frames as suggested -reducing size pats/futtocks-10",9.5" and 9".

I tapered the transition points and ended with timber tops too thin or wave profile.

Should the transition points -chock or scarf- be left as step?

What have I forgotten or not understood?

[dvm27]

Not sure I fully understand your question (photo would help) but the center of each chock, as viewed from the outside, should be a step where the transition occurs.

[stuglo]

A step middle of chock will solve the problem .Thank you. At the risk of being pedantic, I assume a small step on either side so narrower piece sits above in the middle?

[druxey]

You need to study a copy of a framing plan to fully understand what you need to do.

[dvm27]

Think of each futtock (member of a frame) as individual timbers which are connected to the next one by a joint. Each end of the joint (except the toptimber) has a scarph joint. When the ends are joined these two adjacent scarph joints are glued together creating  a step in the middle (1/2" or 1"- refer to the framing plan). The void created is filled by a chock. The chock is always the same thickness as the thicker of the two futtock pieces.  The process I use is to glue both futtocks and the chock together over a copy of the frame. After it is dry use a chisel to pare the upper part of the chock down to the thinner width of the adjacent futtock.

 

If you have The Fully Framed Model, Volume III the process is clearly depicted on pages 64-65.