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HMS Fly by TimC - Victory Models - First Time Builder


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Hi all

 

this will be used as a log for my build of the Amati HMS Fly. I have never built a wooden ship and have only built plastic ships for about a year so most of this is very new to me, including the terms—which I will hopefully learn along the way. I will likely move very slowly because I’m nervous to make a mistake, but please offer any and all advice you have.  I’ll gladly accept it all. Forgive me in advance for my dumb questions I’m sure I’ll ask. 
 

I haven’t don’t much yet, but I started to dry fit the keel and bulkheads.  I will hopefully start the beveling process soon. 
 

—Tim

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Hi Tim,

 

Firstly, welcome to MSW. Also, great to see you get this log started here. There's no such thing as dumb question. They are all valid and it's how we learn. We are all still learning in some way.

 

Off to a great start. Take your time and ask as many questions as you need. 

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Hi Tim,


Hope you don't mind me following along :)
 

Fly really is a handsome ship, and I'm sure you'll do a great job. It doesn't feel like two minutes since I built my first wooden model ship, and yet somehow six years and four models have come and gone! I couldn't have done it without the support and encouragement of the guys on this forum, so if I can pay it back at all and help you out in any way, let me know! 

 

Rob

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13 hours ago, robdurant said:

Hi Tim,


Hope you don't mind me following along :)
 

Fly really is a handsome ship, and I'm sure you'll do a great job. It doesn't feel like two minutes since I built my first wooden model ship, and yet somehow six years and four models have come and gone! I couldn't have done it without the support and encouragement of the guys on this forum, so if I can pay it back at all and help you out in any way, let me know! 

 

Rob

Thank you Rob! Any and all help would be greatly appreciated 

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Decided to use the mostly hidden areas of the lower deck to practice some planking techniques...figured if I messed up I could act like it never happened ;) 


I went with 120 mm cuts at 30 mm breaks in a 1-3-2-4 pattern with thread between the planks. I think the contrast there looks nice and I couldn’t get a decent marking with a pencil on the edges of the plank. 
 

I decided to use Zap medium CA since the pieces are so thin and won’t have stresses on them. I then applied a thin coat of matte medium on top to slightly darken the colors and apply a mild protection (not sure if this seals the wood too?).  Any objections or words of caution using CA vs wood glue?  For all hull planking I’m planning on wood glue (titebond 2) since I’ll use clips and hold them there for a bit.  
 

I think I will use the same deck pattern for the main decks as well.  I like the look of it. 
 

side note: I’m not necessarily going for full historical accuracy on this one. I want to make it visually appealing to my eye and use it more as a “learn the techniques” process 

 

thanks for looking in! 
 

Tim

C9E8BE13-5DF1-4783-9B74-673AAC04B7FD.jpeg

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Hi all,

 

Lots of pictures on this one, apologies in advance

 

I got a good bit of work done today.  Just got back from hiking in Shenandoah Valley (Appalachian Trail) the past few days with my girlfriend and our 3 pups so being up and about wasnt on the top of my to do list. 

 

Anyway, I was able to get the main deck planked, except the portions on the mid ship where the ends of the bulkheads will be removed later on.  I think it came out pretty good with just a layer of varnish on top of the raw wood--room for improvement next time though...or even on the upper decks when I do them. 

 

I dry fitted the support beams along with the upper decks fore and aft.  I used this to start getting my lines to shape the frame of the ship which seemed to work out well so far.  I then started to use the gunport strips to help with planning the beveling for the planks.  I was very unsure of how to approach this so I just went with the idea that as the plank bends around the frame, it should lay as flush as possible wherever it contacts the bulkheads--this seems to be what most videos and forums say on the matter--please correct me if I have this incorrect.  Very unnerving being the first time, but it looks pretty good holding the limewood up to it with a light bend.  I also used a piece of the deck planking to check the flush-ness of the fit since that bends much more easily.  Getting the limewood to bend will be an experience I'm sure. 

 

I have not attached the stern counter patterns yet.  From placing the rear upper deck, if I were to glue them in line with the pre-cut rear bulkhead, it would extend laterally out past the end of the rear upper deck.  I angled the attachment sites of both pieces to allow a flush fit against the pattern of the rear upper deck---I think that was the right move. 

 

I spent a decent amount of time trying to figure how much to bevel the stern portion to make planking easier for me there...everything I see on here is that you need to take more off than you'd think to avoid a massive bend.  I'm happy with it right now, but i guess i can take more off as I go.  I still have to taper the rear portion of the keel (deadwood??) to accept the width of the planking against the rudder.  I assume I should have done this earlier, but here we are! 🙃

 

Thanks for reading this novel, the sequel will be out shortly

Tim

 

 

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Thank you Richard and Spyglass! The reassurance is very helpful that I’m on the right path.  I’ll get going with more beveling on the rear portion...I was hesitant to take too much off. 
 

im hopeful to soak the gunports tomorrow and get them fitted properly so I can start planking this weekend if I have the time.   Very nervous for that!  If you have any helpful tips about lining the hull or figuring out plank tapers I’d be very grateful!  I have a bunch of references but more can never hurt 

 

Have a great night!

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Hi Tim,

 

Your build is looking quite good! Seems like you've been making fast progress.

 

I also started the Amati Fly kit a few months ago as my first ever model and have been slowly muddling through it. I'll be sure to keep an eye on your build log. Feel free to reach out - maybe we can help each other through this kit.

 

-starlight

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31 minutes ago, starlight said:

Hi Tim,

 

Your build is looking quite good! Seems like you've been making fast progress.

 

I also started the Amati Fly kit a few months ago as my first ever model and have been slowly muddling through it. I'll be sure to keep an eye on your build log. Feel free to reach out - maybe we can help each other through this kit.

 

-starlight

Thank you starlight! Great to have another beginner on here. I would love to discuss things together as we go forward. I’ll be checking your build out as soon as I reply to this as well so that I can follow along 

 

tim

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Though I am a bit obssessive about it - the gunport strips can be made to be a very good fit on Fly and Pegasus but it usually needs several  "shaping passes" .

As to first planking Fly and Peggy are actually one of the easier  ones the strips - run naturally and an easy tapering forrard  deal with most issues - I cant remember what ratio I normaly used - but I think I started around BH 5 or 6 and came down to about from 5mm to 3mm on average. And the stern has a very easy  "flattish " counter

Its a shame there were some excellent detailed logs which got lost in "The Big Crash " here is a few pic i dont think I have put on the site to illustrate510772327_mainwalealignment-stem.jpg.ac9768a984007e4262f783d357e9df8a.jpg216168455_mainwalealignment-stern.jpg.06cc3361de533f0c7f822d416a2f238a.jpg477168254_shipatlast.jpg.1c07dcbef73324bb0e5fbd8bffbc4899.jpg

stemrab.jpg.4234652022f448578c7121c184e38aac.jpg

Edited by SpyGlass
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5 hours ago, SpyGlass said:

Though I am a bit obssessive about it - the gunport strips can be made to be a very good fit on Fly and Pegasus but it usually needs several  "shaping passes" .

As to first planking Fly and Peggy are actually one of the easier  ones the strips - run naturally and an easy tapering forrard  deal with most issues - I cant remember what ratio I normaly used - but I think I started around BH 5 or 6 and came down to about from 5mm to 3mm on average. And the stern has a very easy  "flattish " counter

Its a shame there were some excellent detailed logs which got lost in "The Big Crash " here is a few pic i dont think I have put on the site to illustrate510772327_mainwalealignment-stem.jpg.ac9768a984007e4262f783d357e9df8a.jpg216168455_mainwalealignment-stern.jpg.06cc3361de533f0c7f822d416a2f238a.jpg477168254_shipatlast.jpg.1c07dcbef73324bb0e5fbd8bffbc4899.jpg

stemrab.jpg.4234652022f448578c7121c184e38aac.jpg

Damn that looks very good.  I’m hopeful I can come close to that on this 

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Hi all,

 

I did a first try on the gunport strips.  Any issues that you can see that I should correct?  My measurements show that I'm level across and equidistant between BHs and the gunports.  I had to remove a bit from the front end of the strips to allow the jigsaw to sit around BH 9...this allowed the rear portion to sit fllush with the end of the rear upper deck, but now I will have to reshape the hole for the bowsprite.  Fly15.jpg.a77fa548ed63750ff2cf231169dcf827.jpgFly14.jpg.7b441022dc3027782042709cc8b873b8.jpg

 

I also used some of the kit cannons to judge gunport positions relative to the deck and they seem good to my naked eye.  I think I will buy the upgrade set though for the better cannons.

   Fly12.jpg.66fd20b55f293e464b8f312830be17df.jpgFly11.jpg.ac6af1aa54c6371a35ac8134525e0aca.jpgFly13.jpg.1f753682e498e2a3dc8ec194afb3de9a.jpg

 

I feel pretty decent about it for a first shot, but i will likely re-soak and shape a few times to make sure I get the subtleties of the BH curves before I finalize anything.  Please feel free to leave any constructive criticism for me to improve upon!

 

Thanks for looking in

Tim

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If you check my log i think I give a measurement for the jigsaw position - most builds agree that it shouldnt sit "square" on BH 9 and yes i have always had to short the forrard end and recut the sprit hole.  BUT how much depends quite a lot on how hard you have chamfered the first few bulk heads.

But have fun - you can end up with the gunport strips being so beautifully  shaped you feel like mounting them instead of the model. !!

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Thanks for the encouragement spyglass I appreciate it

 

A better fitting showed that my jigsaw is sitting just to the rear of BH 9 and it terminates in a good spot on the stern to my eyeballing it

 

hoping my 3rd soak and set holds tonight and I can play around with gluing it tomorrow afternoon once I’m done seeing patients. For now off to bed

 

tim 

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ok so I have started the portion of this that has me the most nervous..planking.  I have read a lot of information on here and watched a lot of videos, but I feel as if i only loosely understand it.  I am not a math inclined person, which makes me more anxious....i am a muscle, joint, and ligaments guy in my real life.  Anyway, i have dry-fit the first 2 planks under the gunport strips without needing any taper since they lay smoothly without needing to force anything unnatural.  I would assume the tapering begins where i would need to unnaturally force or bend the planks to fit in an area.  THe ones i have fit look symmetrical to my eye and seem to lay nicely, so im not sure if I should have tapered them at all just because the numbers say to?

 

Ill use BH 6 as my reference here:  I took measurements of the length under the gunport strips to the upper edge of the keel prior to my dry fit and noted roughly 93mm.  With the kit supplied 5mm plank that equals roughly 18.6 planks.  Now, to get the planks at the other BHs, I would take this # of planks and use the distances of the other BH measures to determine those plank widths at each section.  For instance, if my BH 1 measures 56mm, that would be 56/18.6= 3.01 width to fit 18.6 planks, yes?

 

Now, since i laid the first 2 planks without taper, should I redo the measures starting under those planks? or should i have tapered the top edges of those planks originally? 

 

Best,

Tim

Fly16.jpg

Fly17.jpg

Fly18.jpg

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