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klimi

HMS Bounty by klimi - 1:60 scale (armed merchant ship)

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wow! the hull planking is flawless, and the stern frame fits perfectly!!

well done!

 

can't wait to see more pictures from u!

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Great work on the planking Pavel. I do like the colours you have done her in. Great carving too, well done mate.

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Thank you all, i´m very pleased by yours nice words. Your comments give me more flavor in the works and I will try to do the best possible result

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Hamilton : Yes I did, in the first paragraph is it writthen, that this ship is my first. I made some planes and basic ship as a child, so this kind build is my first. But now is my work slow down, because i´m gonna do last exam and than i am going on summerjob and also i wanna enjoy summer. but i wish to still working on the ship.

 

Pavel

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Nice work. I hope you enjoy in resolving unclear points of building. That is creative part, with pleasure in the end if it finished on satisfied way. Keeo going, I`ll follow

 

NenadM

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NenadM:  Yes, I think so, because work on hull was long and it looked, that it is infinity, but a few steps back, when I glued beams, the hull came out. I´m looking forward on details on deck, but most, on masts and rigging. But this work is fine, is kinda meditation, if it can say. :)

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After a long time I returned to work on the model. The first thing I started to fix the planks at the stern . Now it is well aft beam '' '' or as I call it, however, remains on the other side.

Followed by a couple of attempts on the windows and in the end I tend to think that the window frame will make a 1 mm slats and bars in the middle of 0.5 mm . Does anyone here from you proven method in terms of build bars? There seems to me the best opportunity to stick 3 longitudinal slats and then between 8 to fit the pieces. 7

Furthermore, I wonder whether I should redo a few other things. The first is the plating of the hull at the bow . Firstly, I do not like the way I finished more than the tip is in the plans , which show that those boards are connected almost horizontally . So I thought in the last part of the dividing cut and stick below . I fear , however, that there is quite chances of spoil it , even though covered with planks could be replaced, which is just about the time, but the result would be more satisfied.

Another thing is the thickness of the wall , which is also the plans thinner and also a black board on board is connected to the step smoothly and not what is with me. Which I would like to address cutting red planks and grinding and then stick it again , or make new ones. Thus, there would be room for a black board even if it looked smooth.

Now I am waiting Resolved second beam at the rear and then about going into repairs.

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Thanks Hamilton, but i´m not satisfied with wales aroud the bow. Because it doesnt follow the planks. I think, that i can try cut the yellow plank out and if will be plank under it in  good condition, then i´ll cut out the others. I´m a litle bit afraid out of this, so that the hull stays good. 

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Hello again,
I repaired one side and i think, that it is fair done. I tryied to make a patina. First time i painted a wood thin layer of color and then i used a grafity powder after that i did second coating.
I think that i know, how i wanna go on. I wish that my model will be look like realistic, so i try make a each part not so clean and certain direction roughly trimmed. Like on the old ship. I will see.
Next step will be make a second side and then windows.
and here are next pics.

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First I applied graphite powder on the entire torso and spread brush. It is good that graphite give less , easier to add than when you have to clean it . Subsequently, then take toilet paper that I spit a bit and rubbed graphite across the middle . He makes it such a film , then that is a good rub with a damp brush , she would be well water , but I used spit, I do not know why , maybe I was so lazy that I can not for the water run out. Personally, however, I think that spit is more aggressive than water and possibly because the dirt more in the wood , but as I said, just a guess . Last change was that I took a hard flat brush , which I cupoval the hull and you could say that I scrubbed the bar dry. It seems to me that this is how the planks Tint dirt that has to be there and it creates quite credible patina. It just takes time , you have to go all the time and make small curls or push or something like this , as I said . As a result, even make out excess oil on wood .

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Hello Pavel,

you did a nice looking hull, I like the treenailing you did.

Although I haven't reached the Point yet I have started to think about doing it on my Bounty.

If you don't mind I will take your Bounty as a Inspiration.

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Edward - it doesnt matter, you know, i like if are my posts helpful for someone, coz manytimes i did got here an inspiration. Ttreenails technique works fast a quiet good. Original made treenails are best, but i think this methor works.

 

The learner - I think so, especialy i mean that spit are basic to use, all you need is you yourself and spit is more agressive then watter.

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Hello

 

Navis Factorem :yes i´m using also this book. But an other equipment i gonna do in dark wood. I  don´t like so much a red color everywhere.

 

WackoWolf: Thank you, i like that what you say, cos i also spend a lot of time watching on her :D. Now i gonna do windows and galery.

 

Pavel

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Frank, thank you, you said it, me not :D  i remmember if i have choosen to make a ship model, i was saing to my self, it must be great got ship model and now is it different shipmodeling is especialy about the building and the finish ship is a icing on the cake.

 

Dsiemens, thanks i´m trying make what i can. I think that best wave how to build a model is put your self personality in her, out of make advantages, because idel model does exist just one and the mistakes make it unique.

 

Wackowolf, thanks now i slowed with my work, cos i have to do some things in the school, but after christmas i will upload more pictures, now i´m working on gallery.

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This is really nice work, and especially for a first model. I am very impressed. It might be too late, but if i'm not mistaken, the windows made at this time had a small outwards curve. I have been unable to find any examples, but I just got an idea that this effect could be achieved by heating up the plastic.

 

I got the idea when i saw this picture, where the effect is already indicated. 

 

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Really nice weathering too!

Best regards, Jakob

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Thank you Krutzelpuntz, i forgot say, that the replacement for a glass is a fiol out of disket. And yes, windows has to follow some curve, but i a choosed this way, cos it was easier.

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