Jump to content

Duchess of Kingston 1798 by glennard2523 - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Royal Yacht by Glenn Shelton

Recommended Posts

After many trials and tribulations over the last 7 days I have now finally completed the mizzen mast shrouds. As the two photos below will show I am no master craftsman with regards to this aspect of model ship building. This did really test my patience at times and I lost count of the number of times I had to redo various bits, adding new shroud lines, redo the lanyards, etc.


I did find it very fiddling working with 3mm deadeyes but the jig I made proved to be a very useful tool in forming a nice loop, seizing and then placing the deadeye in the shroud line. The tying off of the lanyards is not still not great but, unlike previous builds, I did manage to get the final knot behind the deadeye.


In summary  my shroud technique is slowly improving with each new build but there is still plenty of room for improvement. Next I will look at adding the futtock stave and catharpins. I am also debating weather to add the mizzen mast ratlines before moving on to main mast shrouds and lanyards.


I will redo the middle lower shroud seizing as it looks pretty awful in the picture below






Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well done for persevering Glenn. I particularly like the realistic way you've wrapped the excess lanyard round the shrouds. One tip you might want to consider. When I've finished seizing a deadeye into a shroud and I want to trim the excess shroud, I put a small drop of very thin CA onto the shroud at the point I want to cut it and let it harden before I do so to ensure the end doesn't fray. Then, a dab of brown or burnt sienna simulates the leather cap used to protect the open end of the shroud. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Thanks Derek. I'm slowly getting better trying to use the methods shown on MSW by better builders such as you.


That is great tip on trimming, thanks for sharing. Wrapping the excess lanyard around the shroud was a challenge at times. I used a needle to help thread the lanyard end back over the top of the deadeye.



Edited by glennard2523
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Another tricky rigging task completed with the addition of the catharpins and futtock staves and shrouds to the mizzen mast. As can be seen in the photo it is not the work of a master but, once again, compared with my last build it is a marked improvement. I found it better to add the catharpins either side of the mizzen mast.




I found fitting the futtock stave the most complicated aspect of this task but it was not as bad as I first feared. When adding the catharpins I did experiment with using 0.5mm copper wire (as per DelF on Speedy) but I ended up using 0.5mm black thread. The futtock shrouds look OK but there is definitely room for improvement. 

Edited by glennard2523
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am finding adding the ratlines to the mizzen mast to be very therapeutic and it is a task I am very much enjoying at the moment.


I started using the black ratline thread supplied with the kit but I found it difficult to see and adjust the clove hitch knots to get the desired tension in the ratlines. Therefore I have opted to use 0.1mm natural thread which has made the task much easier. I have the option to dye the ratlines black when the task is completed, e.g. by using Indian ink.


As can been seen in the photo below I printed out a paper template for the ratline spacing. I also have a small wooden strip of the same width as a double check.



I will adjust the position of the ratlines as necessary and then tighten up all the knots once I have added all the ratline lines. I will then apply a diluted pva solution to shrouds and ratlines before trimming away the excess thread and applying the dye.




Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Matt D said:

Those are some nice looking clove hitches.  Are you able to do this with your fingers or does it take tweezers?

Hi Matt

Thanks for the complement. I am mainly using tweezers which I have became quite adept at using but I do use my fingers as well, usually in combination with the tweezers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

As I progressed with the mizzen mast ratlines I noticed the central shroud line was not properly centred. As I had only done half the ratlines and it was taking me around 10 minutes to add each ratline I decided to remove them and start again.


I modified by ratline template and added the vertical lines, thanks to DelF for this excellent tip.


Picture of the template



This time I decided to add the bottom rat line, then the middle ratline and then the top ratline to ensure the shrouds were true and straight. This worked much better. I started each ratline with a half hitch which I positioned at the back of the shroud and added a touch of diluted pva, (50/50 mix, another DelF tip) when I was happy with its position. I then used clove hitch knots for the next two shroud lines and added a touch of diluted pva when I was happy with each position. Finally I stained the ratlines black.


This is by far the best set of ratlines I have added to a model. Still room for some improvement




Edited by glennard2523
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It has been a few days since my last post. I had completed adding all the shrouds and lanyards to the main mast. However I was not totally happy with how the deadeyes were sitting in the shrouds. The jig I had made, similar to the one I used on the mizzen mast, allowed the deadeye to fit, but they very loose. I carried on thinking it would be OK but common sense prevailed so I took the decision to remove the lanyards and shrouds and to start again.


I started by modifying the jig, so the shrouds when wrapped around the jig and seized would form a smaller hole for the deadeye. I did a test after I had modified the jig and it produced a much better result with a nice tight fitting deadeye.


I then cut 4 x 50cm lengths of 1mm black thread for each shroud pair (2 pairs per side) and 2 x  30cm lengths for the single shrouds (1 per side).


The first shroud line  was then positioned around the mast. I used the the quad hands to hold the shroud line in place, as shown below.



I also used a croc clip to bring the lines together near the point of seizing



I used 0.25mm black thread to seize the shroud line around the mast.



I will now continue to add all the shroud lines this morning which should not take too long to complete.


My next post will (hopefully) so the progress of adding the deadeyes and lanyards to the shrouds which will take me a few days to complete.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am happy to report that take two of the main mast shroud and lanyards work is much better.


The jig used is simply a thin strip of wood fitted with two copper wire lengths set for the channel deadeye and a dowel (approx 4.8mm diameter) to represent the shroud deadeye. With the jig in place the shroud line can be wrapped around the dowel. Using some black fly tying thread I seized the shroud to make a loop for the deadeye.


Picture of jig in place and shroud being siezed



Completed shroud with deadeye fitted



With deadeyes fitted to the first starboard shroud pair I added the lanyards, using 0.25mm natural thread. I will continue to add the deadeyes and lanyards to the other shroud lines.




Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Work progressing slowly at the moment. Adding shrouds, futtock staves, catharpins and futtock shrouds to the main mast has proven to be a very time consuming task. It has also a really test of patience at times but as I progressed with this aspect I found my skill levels were improving.


When adding the futtock stave I found the use of the quads hands to be of great benefit. I used the quad hands to hold the futtock stave in positions as whilst I seized the copper bar to the shroud lines. The attached picture shows a long length of copper held which enabled me to cut the copper bar to the required length. 



The following picture show the futtock stave after it has been seized and painted black. As can be seen there was still a little bit more trimming of excess thread required.



The main mast is now ready and waiting for the ratlines to be added.


Edited by glennard2523
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

I am currently waiting for a delivery of some additional thread from CMB (it has now been dispatched) before I can continue with the Fore Mast shrouds. I had managed to use all the kit supplied thread because I had to redo the main mast shrouds.


Over the last couple of days I have added the mizzen stay and mizzen crows feet. I decided to manually serve a bit of the mizzen stay to hold the mouse in place. I have quite pleased with the end result.


Mizzen Mast Crows Feet with a nice reflected shadow. Very fluffy lines (no beeswax!!!!!) They do not look fluffy to the naked eye however,



Mizzen Mast Stay (again with a shadow).


Edited by glennard2523
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

The 1mm black thread I ordered has still not arrived from CMB so I am unable to progress with adding the fore mast shrouds. I therefore decided to add the main stay and the main preventer stay. I had just enough 1mm black thread left for the main stay and I used the kit supplied 1.3mm black thread for the main preventer stay.


I added a little bit of serving to each stay line hold the mouse in place. Once the stays were fitted I coated the lines with a diluted solution of pva which has stiffen them up nicely. I plan to add the main mast crows feet next.


Main Stay and Preventer Stay



Deadeyes. I am really pleased with how they have turned out. Much improved compared with the main mast shrouds. I am starting to get the hang of this rigging malarkey.




Edited by glennard2523
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Today I thought I would detail my work on the main mast Euproe assembly. I will follow this up with the rigging of the main mast crows feet in a separate post.


The assembly consists of 2 x 2mm blocks and 1 x euproe photo etched part which I blacken using a burnishing product.


I ran a 0.5mm micro drill through both the 2mm blocks to help with the threading the rigging thread.


Using 0.1mm natural thread this was seized this to the 2 2mm blocks using black fly tying thread.


Stage 1 - Setting up the 1st 2mm block in the quad hands.



Stage 2 - Starting the seizing. I used an alternate top and bottom half hitch method to add the seizing. I found it better to work toward the block when adding the seizing.





Stage 3 Adding the euproe

I ran the 0.1mm natural thread thread through the euproe hole and then seized it with black fly tying thread using an alternate top and bottom half hitch method. It produces quite a nice end result as can been seen below.




Stage 4 - Rigging the blocks

Once the 2 x 2mm blocks and 1 x euproe part were seized it was a simple case of running the 0.1mm rigging thread through both blocks. The assembly is now ready to be added to the Main Stay. After viewing the attached photo I did tidy up the seizing and badly cut ends on the right hand block.


Edited by glennard2523
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Following on from yesterdays post I have now completed adding the main mast crows feet rigging.


I started by taking a 3m length of 0.1mm natural thread. There are 18 holes in the main mast platform. To ensure I finished with the thread running through the last platform hole nearest to me I started the rigging up through the 10th hole, then I passed the thread through the euproe back towards me then I fed it down platform hole 9 then back up platform hole 8 back and then back through the next hole in the euproe etc.


Picture of the start of the rigging



As the rigging progressed the more observant will see I  made a error with the threading pattern which meant I had to unthread it all and start again. I did not waste much time thankfully.



2nd time around and everything is looking better, no mistakes so far!



After a few more minutes the rigging was finally completed.



I will start to add the shrouds to the mizzen top mast next.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

I have now completed adding all the shrouds, ratlines and stays to the mizzen mast and mizzen top mast. The mizzen is now ready for the yards. Before fitting the yards I will have to complete adding the shrouds, ratlines and stays to the main and fore masts. Tomorrow I will start work on adding the shrouds and ratlines to the main topmast, followed by the main top gallant mast.


This is a picture taken as I was adding the mizzen top mast ratlines. I quite like adding ratlines. I start with the bottom ratline, then I add the middle one and then I add the top one. I then fill in the gaps in stages. Once I am happy with the position I coat the ratlines and shrouds with a 50/50 diluted pva solution. After all the ratlines have been added I dyed the lines black.



Picture showing the shrouds, ratlines and stays.



Another picture showing the shrouds, ratlines and stays.


Edited by glennard2523
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As work progresses on adding the main top mast shrouds I thought I would share my methods.


I started by cutting a 40cm length of black 0.75mm thread. This was wrapped around the top of the main mast to create the first two shroud lines. The quad hands were used to tension the shroud, as shown in the photo below. The photo also provide a nice vista of the view from my ship yard.



Using the top and bottom half hitch method with 0.25mm black thread I applied the seizing to secure the shroud. I opted for 6 top and 5 bottom half hitches. The end result of the seizing is shown in the next photo.



It took approx. 30 minutes to add the 4 shroud line pairs.



Next it was time to add the 3mm deadeyes. The first task is to form a hole for the deadeye. To do this I used my deadeye jig, as described in an earlier post. In the photo below the jig has been position and the first shroud line wrapped around it. To keep the tension in the shroud line I have used a pair of reverse action tweezers attached to the end of the shroud line.



Using the black fly tying thread I was able to form the hole in the shroud. It was then then a simple task to fit the deadeye in said hole. It is a nice snug fit.



The next task was to add whipping to the shroud line. I held the deadeye in the quad hands and adjusted the position to ensure the line was tensioned. I then cut a length of 0.1mm natural thread and started the process of adding top and bottom half hitch knots.



I added 5 top and 5 bottom knots and in next to no time the task was complete.



A 15cm length of 0.1mm natural thread was cut for the lanyard which was then threaded through both deadeyes. The shroud line was tensioned as the lanyards were adjusted. The thread was then passed through a small gap between the top of the deadeye. The shroud line and will tied off later on once the final tensioning process has been completed.



The above process is now to be repeated for the 7 remaining shroud lines.





Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, Theodosius said:

I like the crows feet. I think it's not so easy to have each leach with the same tension on it! 

Thanks Theodosius.

I did apply some tension to the lines as they were rigged. Before adding the final securing knot I pulled the lines in turn to get additional tension. Very similar to tensioning lanyards, just a few more line to pull.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, drjeckl said:

Glenn,  It appears that the lower right deadeye got rotated 180 degrees from a previous view.  Compare it to the other 3.



Hello John.

I had noticed that when I started to add the next lanyard. Many thanks and a great spot. It has been corrected.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was experimenting with a photo editor this morning and decided to import a selection of my build photo's into a video. The build sequence goes a bit awry at times, due to an error when initially saving the photo's. I thought I would upload the video to YouTube, see link below.




I would like to try to make some video's showing some of my build methods. As I only use my phone to take the pictures / videos I have to rely on the auto focus feature. I have found, at times, the phone does not focus where I would like. I have used the back of the plan drawings to try to overcome this issue which has helped to a degree. I have now bought a photo backdrop kit to try to improve the quality of my photos further.


I have completed adding the top mast and top gallant mast shrouds to the starboard side and I only have two deadeye to fit to the port side main top mast shrouds before I add the ratlines. I will then add the two back stays. Once that is complete I will move on to adding the foremast shrouds, ratlines and stays. Once that is complete all that remains is adding the various yards. Fingers crossed I will complete this model by the end of the month. I have the Cutter Alert waiting in the wings which will fill the void until the Sphinx kit is released. 







Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have now completed adding the shrouds and ratlines to the main mast.


I did find it tricky to tie off the topgallant shroud line to the lower deadeyes but managed to do so eventually.


The fore topgallant mast is missing in the following photo as I damaged it when rigging the main mast. Thankfully it was a fairly easy task to remove it.






Main topmast and topgallant shrouds



Next on the agenda will be to add both the top main mast and topgallant mast backstays. After that I will move on to adding the main topmast stay, main topmast preventor stay and main topgallant mast stay before starting work adding all the shrouds the foremast assembly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Create New...