FINISHED - Toyota Sard Supra GT - Tamiya - 1:24 Scale

[CDW]

2 hours ago, yvesvidal said:

Looking great. Any way you can push out the rear wheels, so that they fill up the wells entirely? 

Ideally, you would want the rear tire flanges to be flush with the fender extensions.

 

Yves

Tamiya engineers their car kits using a poly bushing where the wheel slips inside the bushing with a snug fit to hold it in place. They are all the way in, bottomed out right now. I'll have to look at some photos of the 1:1 car to try to see exactly what you are referring to. I'm not sure I understand what you're asking me.

[Edwardkenway]

I think he is referring to the " Carlos Fandango" effect, where race cars tend to have wider wheels at the rear, thereby the tyres protrude past the arches. At least that is my interpretation . Much as on this Castrol supra

[CDW]

There might be just a wee bit of room to slide the tire/wheel out just a bit, but the top of the fender flare will hit the top of the tire so it cannot fit outside the well. Thanks for the photo reference and interpretation.

None of the photos I found of the Sard Supra show the tires outside of the wells/flares but I clearly see it on the photo you referenced.

Edited November 11, 2020 by CDW

[Edwardkenway]

I also found that Craig, it appears that the Sard Supra wheels do not exceed the flare of the arch, maybe it doesn't need wider tyres as the engineers put more of a camber on the wheels as in this internet photo 

[Old Collingwood]

I would have thought most perfomance cars are set up with wheels/arches matched  to aid stream lining, I know its a fashion thing in street racing cars  (hot hatch type things) from the 80s.

 

OC.

[CDW]

25 minutes ago, Edwardkenway said:

I also found that Craig, it appears that the Sard Supra wheels do not exceed the flare of the arch, maybe it doesn't need wider tyres as the engineers put more of a camber on the wheels as in this internet photo 

 

I first noticed the difference in the wheels/tires between the Castrol Supra and the Sard Supra while I watched a scale model build video of the Castrol car. It was obvious they protruded further outside the wheel wells and the model captures this difference between the two cars.

 

Today, I masked off and painted the black trim around the windows. In these photos, I have moved the tires as far to the outside as they can go and then they touch the inside top of the wheel well arch.

 

Oh, by the way, the black trim is actually Vallejo black gray. I rarely use pure black.

 

[Old Collingwood]

That is looking sharp mate.👍

 

OC.

[Edwardkenway]

I'm really looking forward to the graphics/decals going on as it will change it from an excellent looking pimped street car into a thoroughbred competition touring car.

Great work and some exceptional painting. 

[CDW]

48 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

That is looking sharp mate.👍

 

OC.

 

42 minutes ago, Edwardkenway said:

I'm really looking forward to the graphics/decals going on as it will change it from an excellent looking pimped street car into a thoroughbred competition touring car.

Great work and some exceptional painting. 

 

Thanks gentlemen. Decals are going on this evening, at least the start of it. We are in the midst of a hurricane right now, but it's recently degraded to tropical storm status. Should see the worst of it in my area over the next 12 hours or so. Hoping it won't be too bad.

[Egilman]

The rubber would be flush with the outside of the fender flare... she was a wide track car unlike most others which needed the tire spacing for stability....

 

The difference being she was designed from the start for racing where the others were production designs altered for racing....

 

I have faith brother, you know as well as I that the graphics make or break a white car.... I'm sure you are going to do a spectacular job.....

 

She is downright gorgeous right now....

[Old Collingwood]

3 hours ago, CDW said:

 

 

Thanks gentlemen. Decals are going on this evening, at least the start of it. We are in the midst of a hurricane right now, but it's recently degraded to tropical storm status. Should see the worst of it in my area over the next 12 hours or so. Hoping it won't be too bad.

Hope all will be well  - stay safe.

 

OC.

[popeye the sailor]

WOW!  look'in really nice!    did you paint the rims?......looks sweet!  the interior is well done also........

 

I was getting worried Lou........I was reading through the log and wasn't seeing any post from you   

 

we had a supra in the back of the garage I worked at....belonged to one of the brothers.  I forget the year,  but it was an early model...70's,  80's.  it had a in-line....can't recall how many cylinders......but it was a long engine.  we used to have to push it in and out of the shop every day,  until they parked it out back.  another one of the brothers has an old spyder {pain in the a**}

[CDW]

Judging from tonight's effort with the decals, it's going to take a couple of days to get them on, touched up, and clear coated. Tamiya decals are very thin and brittle. Takes a lot of care not to break them into  lots and lots of itty bitty pieces. This makes the work go slower and more difficult but I like the end results so far. Will take some photos tomorrow.

 

PS: we've had a lot of rain from the storm, some wind, but not too bad. My son who lives north of me is getting hit harder. His power is out but he has a backup generator wired into his circuit. If my power goes out, I'm down to candles, flashlights, and propane gas for cooking. No generator.

[lmagna]

8 hours ago, popeye the sailor said:

I was getting worried Lou........I was reading through the log and wasn't seeing any post from you  

Oh I'm here Denis. Stalking around ninja style trying to soak up information on what would be my next car build should I ever be able to get to it. Ken Miles' pale blue Ford GT MKII from the 1966 24 hours of Lemans race. The true winning car.

 

Nothing like getting to hang out in the rafters and see how people with real skills get it done!

[Egilman]

25 minutes ago, lmagna said:

Ken Miles' pale blue Ford GT MKII from the 1966 24 hours of Lemans race. The true winning car.

 

The ending of that race always has bothered me, Miles was the winner no doubt, but it's a distance race under the rules and when they crossed the line three abreast the car that traveled the farthest distance officially won the race.... And it was done as a publicity stunt for Ford.... For some reason that rankles me....

 

25 minutes ago, lmagna said:

Nothing like getting to hang out in the rafters and see how people with real skills get it done!

Hey brother, as long as you keep your head in it, the hands will have no choice but to follow.... Patiently waiting here, I have faith....

[CDW]

A raw preview of the decal action. The car body has so many compound curves and small raised details such as fasteners that make decal application without multiple touch ups, impossible. Even masking and painting the red instead of decals would be equally challenging because of the compound curves.

 

Edited November 12, 2020 by CDW

[Landlubber Mike]

Wow, those are decals?  Went on really well with all those curves.  Nice job!

[Old Collingwood]

Looks so complex  - enough to test the application of decals  - frankly  if anyone can do it  you can mate.

 

OC.

[Egilman]

1 hour ago, CDW said:

A raw preview of the decal action. The car body has so many compound curves and small raised details such as fasteners that make decal application without multiple touch ups, impossible. Even masking and painting the red instead of decals would be equally challenging because of the compound curves.

Well, I still have faith in your talents.... I believe your up to the challenge.... those pics serve to back this opinion up....

[CDW]

Decals and masking are the most tenuous parts for scale modeling in my opinion. With decals, you never know from one sheet to the next exactly what to expect until you actually start applying them. This is due to the various manufacturers, the age of the specific decal sheet, and the complexity of the surfaces to which they are applied. Additionally, you never know exactly how the decals will react to decal solvents. It's best to start with the milder ones first, then graduate to the stronger solutions if need be. In this case, I am using Microscale brand, Microsol. Solvaset is a stronger solution but can destroy some decals. These are so thin and delicate, I thought it best to stick with the milder of the two solutions. 

Because this kit was introduced in the mid 90's, I am guessing the decal sheet i acquired from Tamiya USA is maybe a bit old stock rather than newer manufacture. They have that "old" feel when applying them. They should not be as brittle as they are.

 

On the home front, nature did a marvelous job of pruning the trees in my yard. The wife and I spent several hours this morning gathering and bundling small branches, raking up, bagging leaves and acorns. Then we dragged out all the Christmas ornaments and staged them for next week. Our daughters are flying down from New Hampshire next week so we will have an early Thanksgiving-Christmas celebration.

[popeye the sailor]

I've had fits with decals that large too.  they never conform,  and if you force them........well,  then your dealing with two decals.   I bought a Cutty kit from E-bay.......the decal sheet was trash,  so I got another one from Revell.   that one broke up into thousands of shards due to micro cracking.......so your assumption of decal age is true    you might have done better to purchase a sheet from an outside source.

Drag Racing Decals - Mike's Decals

Archer Fine Transfers, Decals, Surface Details and Dry Transfers for model builders

personally,  with the masking ability that you have,  I would think that paint might work better.   decals can be the most discouraging thing about the car model medium   

 

I hope you can fix it.  root'in for ya good buddy.   I've even thought about pull'in out the decorations myself...........we all need something to smile about  

[CDW]

I took these photos to give you a view of the sausage making process. It sure is an ugly thing. When the decals first go down and get their first coat of microsol, they look to be in a total and unrecoverable mess.

 

 

 

But you work it, massage it and in between several or more applications of microsol along with enough drying time to allow the solvent to do it's thing and it finally works itself out.

 

 

 

 

At this time, almost all the large red decal pieces have been placed, but there remains a considerable number of other smaller decals yet to be applied. 

 

 

 

[Old Collingwood]

Spoiler

 

That Micro Sol and Set  are amazing.

 

OC.

[CDW]

7 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

  Reveal hidden contents

 

That Micro Sol and Set  are amazing.

 

OC.

Yes, and you have to work it v..e..r..y - s..l..o..w..l..y.

This is one instance where haste will make waste.

 

Oh, and I should have mentioned...use warm water to dip the decals. Cold water gives lots of trouble when sliding the decal off the paper. Warm water does the trick, but not too hot. I have a cup warmer that I use to keep the water warmed in a small tin pan.

Edited November 13, 2020 by CDW

[Old Collingwood]

39 minutes ago, CDW said:

Yes, and you have to work it v..e..r..y - s..l..o..w..l..y.

This is one instance where haste will make waste.

 

Oh, and I should have mentioned...use warm water to dip the decals. Cold water gives lots of trouble when sliding the decal off the paper. Warm water does the trick, but not too hot. I have a cup warmer that I use to keep the water warmed in a small tin pan.

Yep, I agree with you with the water  - I noticed a big difference aswel    - good thing aswel about Micro Sol  - you can re visit it  even the next day  to help the decal settle even more.

 

OC.

[fnick]

Hi Craig

 

Fantastic work on the decals. One thing I have seen some people do is use a hair dryer for a few seconds to speed up the drying process between microsol (or equivalent) applications.

 

There's a YouTube channel called scale modelling channel (mainly cars) that has quite a lot of good how to videos. Not saying you need it! ☺️. Just FYI...

 

I'll stop rambling now...

 

Nick

[CDW]

7 minutes ago, fnick said:

Hi Craig

 

Fantastic work on the decals. One thing I have seen some people do is use a hair dryer for a few seconds to speed up the drying process between microsol (or equivalent) applications.

 

There's a YouTube channel called scale modelling channel (mainly cars) that has quite a lot of good how to videos. Not saying you need it! ☺️. Just FYI...

 

I'll stop rambling now...

 

Nick

I love that channel! Watch it a lot. Have not tried using a hair dryer yet, but will give it a try on some spare scrap decals to see how it works. Thanks

[CDW]

I did some touch ups (paint) on the port side of the car that was decaled yesterday. Found that Mr Color Italian Red matched the red decals perfectly. 

[Canute]

Excellent tip on the warm water, Craig. 👍

 

Hmm, Ferrari Red on that Toyota?

[CDW]

Just now, Canute said:

Excellent tip on the warm water, Craig. 👍

 

Hmm, Ferrari Red on that Toyota?

 

😄   I know, right? Who would have thought it? The Italians, that's who.