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I have recently begun the Pram build, and thought I would log the build.  I am watching SkiBee's build log (https://modelshipworld.com/topic/25495-norwegian-sailing-pram-by-skibee-model-shipways-scale-112/) as well.

 

I find the build board and forms are too thin.  The board warps with a few rubber bands on the hull, and the supports tend to bend and do not like to remain vertical to the build board.  Also, I should have removed char from the build forms as they leave residue on the planks, which I find unsightly.

 

I had the stern transom holder break twice.  The first time I reinforced with super glue; the second I added supports, which can be seen in the photos.  The stern transom was a bit loose, but it was manageable.  The bow transom holder was a bit loose, but I managed to firm it up by inserting some folded paper into the holder slot.  The bow holder is glued to the base.

 

I was told by one of the Model Expo reps via email that the laser etched bevel lines are on the wrong side of the planks; however, I decided to continue using the planks with the bevels line on the upper outside, even though the planks angles are reversed at the ends.  There seems sufficient length to give an acceptable result.

 

One of the garboards has a real scale 1.5 inch split, so I had to request a replacement.  I am considering planking one side while the replacement ships.

 

Photo soon

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Looks great, I had the same problem with the build board as you, I glued both transom holders. It really could use more molds, I think that would prevent the bending of the planks when putting rubber bands around them while the glue dries.

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The hull is finished, except for the stern transom notch, and paint prep.  

 

I installed the rub rails before the rowlock pads, rather than after as in the instructions.  I wanted to sand the rub rail, sheer, inwale tops prior to cutting the chain plate slots and gluing the rowlock pads.  I am not precise enough to have perfectly aligned tops otherwise.

 

The seat and thwart frame installation was confusing, in that the instruction photos do not show detailed top height for most.  They are about right, it seems, but a bit more installation detail would have been helpful.

 

The mast step is not as described in the instructions, both parts in the kit have holes, so I added a solid piece as a third layer just under the mast hole.

 

The thwarts are test fitted, and will be removed prior to priming.

 

I like to use light grey spray primer prior to color coats, and will do this to the entire hull one I have cleaned up a few dents/gaps.  I did not have the colors I wanted for the hull, so must wait for their arrival.

 

 

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Edited by JohnN
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Thanks very much @SkiBee.  Full disclosure; I built the MS Dory kit twice before moving on to this Pram.  There are two photos of the second build on the MS web site if anyone is interested.  (https://modelexpo-online.com/Model-Shipways-Lowell-Grand-Banks-Dory-Model-Wooden-Model-Ship-Kit-124-Scale_p_3957.html)

 

The second Dory was much better than my first effort.  I have woodworking experience, which as helped, I think.  However, planking is definitely a new skill.  These kits are very much different from plastic or resin kits, in my experience.

 

I also wanted to mention my maximum Pram hull width was an actual 1/8 inch narrower than the max mentioned in the instructions.  This concerned me, but it seemed to be about the correct width, as the bottom frames required little modification when installing.  

Edited by JohnN
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Your Pram is coming along nicely.  I checked out your dory photos on the Model-Expo site and you did a good job on building that model.  It looks like this series of kits are a nice introduction into building wooden ship models.

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Work began on the gaff and boom.  I notice the printed material in the instruction booklet WRT these items appear to NOT be to scale.   I am attempting to print at the correct size and will report the adjustment required.  This is puzzling as I used the measuring strips on the previous page of the instructions for frame and thwart supports installation, and these seem to be properly placed.

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Edited by JohnN
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Post scan and reprint of plan page above, at 102%.  Note the gaff is on the plans for calibration.  The gaff is exactly registered to the plans, the camera has distorted the photo slightly.  🙄

 

It would seem prudent to print scales on such instruction pages to allow verification/calibration. This in light of @kurtvd19's comment below.  For a relative novice,  these sorts of errors are a potential minefield.

 

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Edited by JohnN
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The Pram is painted, floorboards and thwarts installed.  I have finished the boom and gaff, the main mast is shaped, and needs its fittings installed.  The Pram interior is Hull Yellow Ochre (MS4829) and the exterior Blue Trim (MS4811).  The floorboards and thwarts are stained red oak and have a coat of satin polyurethane applied.  I did add some material to the inboard floor cleats as the floorboards flanking the dagger board case were not level.

 

The last photo used a flash as I needed front fill, but it is rather harsh light.  It also shows that the interior needs a bit of touch up work.  🤣

 

Happy Thanksgiving, all !!!

 

 

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Edited by JohnN
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Thanks @Matt D.  

 

@SkiBee, did you paint the stay clips and oarlocks brass or gold ?  Based on your comments, I fabricated new, and longer, pintle straps using the PE frame, which look and worked better than the kit supplied parts, IMHO.

 

Rudder is hung; it needs a bit of touch-up, but not today.

 

The kit supplied 18 brass nails (WP0993) ,but the kit requires 22 🙄.  8 for oarlock pads, 2 for back stays, 4 for rudder pintles, 6 for rudder gudgeons, 2 for mast top backstays.  (The parts list says 16 are needed).  I left off the two inboards on the top gudgeon, and I think I will just ignore the holes.  It's not worth the effort for 2 of these tiny parts.  However, the mast is another matter, so I guess it's back to MS customer support.

 

 

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Edited by JohnN
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Sail construction today, waiting for complete drying to make holes and begin lashing.  Somehow, I lost the leech strip I had fabricated and had to make do with remnants.  The kit did not include much spare sail material.  The yellowish tinge is a result of the glue wash.

 

 

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Edited by JohnN
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While awaiting the arrival of additional brass nails from Amazon, I installed the traveler, using a block purchased from MS (1/4 in walnut).  Also prepped are the mast stays and fittings installed on the mast.

 

Pondering the next build as well, suggestions are welcomed.

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