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i have searched for the answer to this question but get differing responses . i own a byrnes table saw , which is excellent , and i completely understand the reason for keeping the blade at 90 degrees .

i looked at the tilting table attachment , but find more negative reviews than positive , but i find that i need to be able to cut at an angle more than i realised so i'm trying to find a solution to that problem, the only thing that i have found is the tilt arbor table saw from micro mark , but its $350 , is there something that i have missed that i could use to make angled cuts (fairly easily) with the byrnes saw? 

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The negative reviews in regards to the Byrnes saw attachment are not a reflection on its function or how well it does it.  For the most part, they are in response to questions about which attachments to buy.  These questions generally come from relative beginners, who do not have bottomless sources of funds.  They are seeking to economize and find shipment costs more favorable when everything is all in a single shipment.   The need for an angle cut for components of a scratch ship model is not one that presents very often.  It is therefore a "yacht" type situation.

That is, if you do not know for sure that you will have a serious need for angled cut stock, then you probably will not use it enough to warrant the expense. Or, if you have to ask, then you probably do not need it. 

The ironic aspect is that it is pretty much the only accessory that is not in the "must have" category.  The sliding table is too exquisite to bye pass, although self fabrication of a more simple version is easy enough.  The oversize top is a specialist's part.  I do wish there was a digital electronic depth of cut gauge; old eyes having the need.   Also, super handy would be a version of the sliding table with a short enough right side that it would allow the fence to remain in place.

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i searched for videos on using the tilt table and only found one , he was complaining about the need for 3 hands to set it up and that the 2 small allen head bolts that hold the angle weren't strong enough for multiple cuts , also that these bolts had to tightened up to the point of stretching the threads which would fail over time , is this correct ?

i have the sliding table but as of now , haven't used it , but then again i'm only at the beginning of my scratch building journey , i have , however , on several occasions needed to cut specific angles on the x section i'm building now , so i feel that i have a need for something just not sure that the tilting table is it.

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I’ve got the tilting table and I find it easy to use. The reason is I actually use it and like any tool the more you use it the easier it becomes. It was a bit awkward at first but so was my first block plane. Once mastered it’s a great bit of kit and I do not regret my purchase at all. I’m just waiting on Jim to contact me so that I can upgrade the table to the larger size. 

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Auxiliary Tilting Table
            
To mount the tilt table on your saw you must first remove the fence extension if you have one.  The tilt table utilizes the same mounting and alignment holes.  Position the tilt table on the fence so the dowel pins are aligned with the corresponding holes on the fence.  Once you have it in place, insert the four 4/40 cap screws to secure the tilt table.  The fence should now move freely from 0 to 45 degrees.  To lock the tilt table at any angle, lock the two 8/32 cap screws at the pivot points front and back.  Two hex wrenches, 3/32 and 9/64, are supplied to install and lock the table at any angle.  

The tilt table does not have a scale on it to set the angle.  The best way to set the angle is with a set of machinist angle blocks.  If you do not have a set of machinist blocks, you can cut the desired angle on a piece of scrap wood using the miter on the regular table top.  Once you have the desired angle, place the block between the tilt table and regular table top and lock the pivots.

It is easier to use the tilt table if you mount the saw on an angled surface.  A 2 x 6 or 2 x 8 x 12" long cut diagonally works fine.  Cut the 2 wedges and screw them to a piece of 1/4" plywood.  Mount the saw on the fixture.     
 

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Hi Anthony - there is a fence fitted to the tilting table which I always use. Small stock I have found does not have to touch the bed as the tilting table is now the new bed. It’s hard to explain but once you’ve had a good play it all comes together. I’m sorry that I cannot be more descriptive 

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Yes that’s right and why you also use the larger diameter blade too. Jim recommends a certain blade on the website. It’s never going to be as easy as have a tilting arbour saw but why have another saw just for that purpose. It does take practice but doesn’t everything 

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8 hours ago, Anthony Hearne said:

there seems like a big gap between the table and the bed , is this a problem for smaller cuts?

The simple solution is to make a zero clearnace wooden insert.   Cut a slab of wood the same thickness as the saw's insert.  Shape it to match the original.  Then.. drop the blade all the way down and put on the new wood insert.  Turn the saw on and slowly raise the blade until it comes through.  I've found you may need a couple of these for various thicknesses of blades and arbor size.

 

 

There's also this, which may help.  It was done some years ago by former wood supplier and is very helpful for the Byrnes and many of the other table top hobby saws.  

 

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