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I opted not to do the cut and paste of the plans to trace the bearding./rabbet lines....did it all with draughtman's calipers , assorted French curves, and rulers....turned out well.  Hopefully tomorrow cut the rabbets. 

 

The metal pin I inserted down the throat of that dangerous narrows by the stern post turned the trick too.

 

did some more upgrading to my mobile shop...need to post some pics,maybe tomorrow.

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So I drew the rabbet and beard lines by caliper and ruler....took a while but ended up true to the plans. Just didn't feel right to cut and trace,but that's just me.

When it came time to cut I used a tip from CPDDET and put some green painters tape on tip of knife blade leaving just 1/16" exposed, so wouldn't accidentally cut the rabbet too deep....worked a charm.

17023669_20210202_192047(1).thumb.jpg.382b360cbe5ca25b2e2f1dc8a615678c.jpg

Then I put a 1/4" chisel blade in knife and instead of going N/S or E/W I gently shaved on a 45° and avoided the blade digging in and gouging the surface of the keel. Took the thinnest of savings and everything stayed true...took a while though.

 

Lastly, took a sanding stick and cut a little wedge out of one just to smooth out the bevel with the merest hint of sanding.

 

Oh, by the way, I have used Xacto my whole life, but read many kudos about Xcel, so bought a set...beauty I must say....I won't be going Xacto again.

 

Here's 2 pics, 1st when I started to shave and then finished product ( only did the aft section so far)20210202_200500.thumb.jpg.43c8542dd51cf97eb9d0ff582656b634.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well, I saw somewhere that instead of using wood strips and pins to keep all the keel/bulwarks true to use cubic blocks or LEGO. 

 

Kids are married so no LEGO...opted for cubic hardwood blocks...worked like a dream...keel is straight as as a pin, and bulwarks not only at 90 degrees, but solid as all get out...nothing even hints at moving or bending...started out a bit rough but better as I proceeded....all hidden anyway once planking starts.

 

Also got the great beam done. I read, reread, watched videos, read some more ...sweating the details. No real detail anywhere it seems.... then it all sort came to me, and I jumped in  and it went fast and easy.

 

So,now onto shortening or lengthening bulwarks where the bearding line is concerned, and installing the 2 pcs of strip at the rudder ( can't remember name) that afford support for lower aft planking to end. Think I my have some work to do there. 

 

I keep my locker swept and clean so no complaints from other locker owners, mostly interest, and therefore no issues with condo board....so far. My mobile shipyard has really been a boon as well. Not only stores tools and stock but works as a stand up tool bench when my back has had enough hunching over the mini bench in my locker.

 

Happy end of winter to all.

 

Ron

 

 

 

 

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Yes, Ron, Legos work very well as squaring blocks.  When my granddaughter grew out of her Duplos and got into the "adult-sized" bricks, I snagged a bunch of them for the workshop!

 

Bob

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My granddaughter still plays with hers...but we have a  firm and true carcass now.

 

Haven't got to bulkheads ( mistakenly referred to as bulwarks earlier) being trimmed or built up yet. Opted to install horn timbers.

 

Had to do some notching as my cube strengtheners were in the way. Glad I built Doc's jig....even though I could feel the weakness of the keel at the rabbet, a couple of healthy sized clamps took care of that, and I was able to lay the ship on its side and notch away to install the horn beam. The after effect was amazing once both in place....a very firm keel at the rudder area.

 

So, now I either work on bulkheads or install the rear transom.

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