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HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Frank Wouts 1/48


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3 hours ago, Stuntflyer said:

Hi Frank,

 

It's probably just the photo but I'm wondering how the batten looks against the framing in this area.

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Mike

Hi Mike, you’re right, it looks strange in the picture indeed, it’s straight and flat in real life though. It looks as if some left over laser char or shadow plays tricks with the eye here.  The vertical piece of the gun port touches the upper cut off frame piece right in the middle like it does below. Together with some laser char that throws a shadow in the upper area of the vertical piece, it looks as if it falls back a little, but in fact it doesn’t… Thanks for looking and checking Mike!

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5 hours ago, Matt D said:

Looking great, Frank!  I’ve had trouble getting my pictures in the order I wanted, too.  But if you edit your post, you can drag them to whatever order you prefer.  It works best on a computer rather than a tablet.

Thanks Matt!

Steady towards the end of chapter 1, no rush…though it feels like miles and miles behind, looking at the chapter 6 and 7 stuff in other beautiful builds.

Okay, I’ll try that later on my PC.

Cheers, Frank.

Current builds on MSW:

HMS Winchelsea 1:48

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17 hours ago, Stuntflyer said:

Hi Frank,

 

It's probably just the photo but I'm wondering how the batten looks against the framing in this area.

6A9AF44B-5C54-4B78-9775-410A00103A8F.jpeg.thumb.jpg.c3b4f354bf449aea611d96d5083754ba.jpg

 

Mike

Here a better picture that shows the starboard forward gunport frames are  flush and not placed backward some.

Now I’m going to spend my Sunday on the stern parts.

DF52B34C-7338-4388-82D8-22FBEE7169B0.jpeg

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I have a question, or two before I start gluing the fillers …

The vertical stern pieces are glued on and dry now. They’re level and symmetrical from the vertical heartline, they have the correct angle viewed from both sides and total width when viewed from the back, as I checked with a cardboard template with a level print glued on it from the drawings (no.2).

However, the tops of all two pairs of middle pieces A and B are not exactly in one line when viewed from the top, which would be a coïncidence if they were I think. When clamped with a straight piece of wood, they can easily be forced in one line when glueing in the fillers later. But should they be in a straight line right now, or should they be in a gentle bow when viewed from the top?

And then the window spacers 1 to 5…

What’s the best reference line to get the window fillers 1 to 5 in the exact position? (They’re not glued on, ofcourse.)   I managed to get them right I think with the six cutout prints from drawing 2. I drew a wrong reference line on vertical stern piece print no.1, the most left one as you can see.

Checking with a cutout it seems all correct, but a hair too low or too high can spoil a nice clean flow of the horizontal (and vertical)
line over all window sills later…

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Edited by FrankWouts

Current builds on MSW:

HMS Winchelsea 1:48

Prior builds on MSW:

None

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6 hours ago, Jim Rogers said:

Looks like it .is pushed back a 32nd or so. Might cause a slight dip in planking. Add a shim and sand easy peasy fix

No it’s not pushed back, it’s shadow working in the picture due to some residual laser char…

Thanks for the tip however when in fact they would have been pushed back by a 32nd. But luckily all is flush from bow to stern…

Edited by FrankWouts

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That looks OK but yes you need to fix those stern frames.  The center two (when viewed from above need t be lined up.   The next pair is slightly more forward but they line up with each other.   The outboard-most pair is even slightly more forward....But these two also line up port to starboard.  This is what creates the gentle curve to the transom when viewed from above.   It shouldnt flatten out which is what happens when you use that strip across all the stern frames.  That strip is not a good idea.   

 

You need to push the tops of the stern frames on the port side more aft to get each married pair in the correct spot.  This will allow you to fair that nice curve of the transom when viewed from above them.  A good way to do this is to take a strip of wood and butt it against the last bulkhead edge.  It should be a long strip.....maybe 3/32x1/4.   Then place it against the top edge of the offending frame and push the top of the frame aft a bit....then clamp it to the scrap strip.  This will hold the stern frame still and in position until after you glue your window framing in position.  Hope this makes sense as its tough to describe in writing.   Basically brace the frame after pushing the top of it aft .

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12 minutes ago, Chuck said:

That looks OK but yes you need to fix those stern frames.  The center two (when viewed from above need t be lined up.   The next pair is slightly more forward but they line up with each other.   The outboard-most pair is even slightly more forward....But these two also line up port to starboard.  This is what creates the gentle curve to the transom when viewed from above.   It shouldnt flatten out which is what happens when you use that strip across all the stern frames.  That strip is not a good idea.   

 

You need to push the tops of the stern frames on the port side more aft to get each married pair in the correct spot.  This will allow you to fair that nice curve of the transom when viewed from above them.  A good way to do this is to take a strip of wood and butt it against the last bulkhead edge.  It should be a long strip.....maybe 3/32x1/4.   Then place it against the top edge of the offending frame and push the top of the frame aft a bit....then clamp it to the scrap strip.  This will hold the stern frame still and in position until after you glue your window framing in position.  Hope this makes sense as its tough to describe in writing.   Basically brace the frame after pushing the top of it aft .

Thanks, yes that’s a clear explanation Chuck. I’ll try this tomorrow by first daylight as it’s already dark now here (21:37h local CET).

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11 hours ago, FrankWouts said:

Thanks, yes that’s a clear explanation Chuck. I’ll try this tomorrow by first daylight as it’s already dark now here (21:37h local CET).

Not exactly how I want it to be outlined yet, but is this roughly what you tried to tell me Chuck?

My plan is to start with the center pair, line them up and glue the filler piece inbetween (while again checking the lining up of the (two) stern frames and window sills/fillers). Ofcourse try to twist the stern framing as little as possible, so the second strip on the second photo for the third stern frame should better be clamped on the left side of the false keel, for less twist.

Then the next pair and glue the next two filler pieces, then the outermost pair. I see in other builds people use the stern outline piece also to line up, check the window outlining.

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Edited by FrankWouts

Current builds on MSW:

HMS Winchelsea 1:48

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Aren't the filler pieces already made for you whereby you would just need to bevel the sides for fit. Don't over think it, Frank.

 

Mike

Current build - Sloop Speedwell 1752 (POF)

Completed builds - 18 Century Longboat (POB) , HM Cutter Cheerful  1806 (POB), HMS Winchelsea 1764 (POB)

 

Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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10 hours ago, Stuntflyer said:

Aren't the filler pieces already made for you whereby you would just need to bevel the sides for fit. Don't over think it, Frank.

 

Mike

In fact that was all that was needed exactly, I just got rid of the laser char on the tops and bottoms and then it fitted exactly on both the plans and my transom. Yes, I’m afraid to make mistakes in this early stage that cannot or are very difficult to correct later

Thanks, Frank.

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 A small update before I’m off for a week Holidays at Lago di Garda, Italy.

I finished fairing the transom. I managed to get the rounding in it on Chuck’s advice and everything came out equally heightwise starboard and portside. Except for fairing the underside, which seems a bit more complex and which I have to look at again. Hopefully this afternoon I can still finish the q-gallery framing.

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Just make sure you even up the tops of those fillers so the transom has a continuous cap which you will have to add later.

 

Chuck

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  • 1 month later...

Hi all,

I was finally able to do some work on my Winnie this weekend after being very, very busy working long hours past weeks.

I think I made a beginner's error or perhaps not, thus I have a question before I proceed and maybe not being able to correct.
The bottom lowest corners of the stern frames don't line up in an exact straight line from the outer stern frame to the inside line between the filler piece and vertical rabbit strip. The area between the red and green line on the picture comes out almost 1,5 mm from the back end of the filler piece and is as far out as the rabbit strip itself... This is obviously not correct, I think it should be in a straight line, or not?

Should I chisel the area between the red ( probably wrong line) and green line (probably right line?) away into a straight line?

In that case, I also must sand the rounded holow curves of the stern frames some more...

IMG_6485.jpg

Edited by FrankWouts
man do I make typo's...

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It looks fine actually.  It is more of a gentle curve on that line that follows the curve of the bottom of the lower counter.  This is east enough to draw on those filler pieces so you can plank correctly and once you actually plank the lower counter with the laser cut parts that curve will become very evident.  The laser cut counter olanking will create the actual curved shape. Its absolutely fine as I see it and its good to see you working on her again.

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4 minutes ago, Chuck said:

It looks fine actually.  It is more of a gentle curve on that line that follows the curve of the bottom of the lower counter.  This is east enough to draw on those filler pieces so you can plank correctly and once you actually plank the lower counter with the laser cut parts that curve will become very evident.  The laser cut counter olanking will create the actual curved shape. Its absolutely fine as I see it and its good to see you working on her again.

Ok thanks Chuck.

Yes, I'm glad too to be working on her again and defenitely determined to finish her!
I understand, but the plank that will end exactly in the corner cannot touch the filler piece this way and will not be in line with the rabbit strip, but beyond it as the red line is more towards us that the green one: the green one lines up with the back of the filler piece, the reds one is 1,5mm 'loose' from the filler piece.

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Wait until you plank the counter and then fair the hull back there into the counter planking so it will be smooth.   The line is fine and what you really need to do is sand and fair that filler against the bulkhead former.   

 

sternfillers.jpg

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2 minutes ago, Chuck said:

Wait until you plank the counter and then fair the hull back there into the counter planking so it will be smooth.   The line is fine and what you really need to do is sand and fair that filler against the bulkhead former.   

 

sternfillers.jpg

Ok, I'll do that and sand that smooth twist in it.

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  • 5 weeks later...

Small update cutting the bollards.

First version, I think the head’s a little too thin or small In this version compared to other pictures here, now I see mine on picture, not?

Frank.85ADBE7B-2B66-413D-859D-796207C66977.thumb.jpeg.fcae064d4ac64850ff8f7b48252ef069.jpeg

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