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Cutty Sark by Sailcat - FINISHED - Revell - PLASTIC - 1/96 Rescue kit bash morphed to Dame Tisane

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John, Popeye, Frank & Druxey - Thank you for looking in and for your kind words  :D

 

Here we look at the detailing of the 'canvas' hatch covers.  I wanted to add the 'lashings' and went ahead with an attempt using black nylon thread.

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After being informed that the lashings would have been rope and that the black looked like steel cable I chose to re-do them with something more appropriate.  Here's a larger image to show the method I chose, which was to de-strand a 'rope' coloured string to get the proper scale effect.

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A comparison of thread sizes.

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The thing about PVA is that you can correct or re-do without too much grief.

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And the final touch is to colour the threads to make them appear 'dirty and worn.'

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Mast work in progress.  Two of the lower masts had jackstays but the kit moulded ones were far too thick for my liking so I re-worked them with brass wire to make them look more to scale.

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Repairs begin on the Yards - these are the Mizzen yards if memory serves.

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The Rudder 'hinges' being fabricated.  The original kit version didn't have these so I decided to exercise my new found skills in brass soldering.

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Gudgeons.

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Pintles.

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Initial fit test - this was originally followed by a dialog on the gap 'tween rudder and hull and resulted in a re-working of the set up.

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Edited by Sailcat

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As mentioned previously the gap between the rudder and hull sparked some conversation.  So the re-working simply involved 'sinking' the gudgeons into the hull and the pintles into the rudder for a closer fit.

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Adding the little 'tab' under the rudder.

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This was one of my more 'insane' choices in terms of kit bashing - the Yards as they came with the kit didn't have actual jackstays, only little plastic 'tabs' which were out of scale.  So, I said to myself, why not make some jackstays out of thin brass wire?

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Comparison of a 'regular' ringbolt with the tiny ones I made for the jackstays - the caliper is set to 1 mm.

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On the left is the modified jewellers pliers I used to make the tiny ringbolts, on the right is the unmodified one.

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The start of the process ... need lots of these for the jackstays.

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I forget who but someone on MSW was known for Really Tiny detail work and they'd post photos with a Tic Tac for scale reference.  So following the lead of 'Mr. Tic Tac' I started including one myself.

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Production was good and for this I forgot to use the Tic Tac - instead there's a Canadian dime with the Bluenose (I thought it was appropriately nautical).

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After I blackened a batch I remembered the Tic Tac.

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The batch and a few accessories for the bow.

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Blackening the little bits.

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Fabricating a part whose name I forget but it is a 'guide' for the bowsprit rigging.

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The three sizes of ringbolts - large for the standing rigging on the deck, medium is the 'general use' and the small is for the jackstays on the yards.

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The part whose name I have forgotten in place.

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Slight modifications to the rudder.

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Teeny, tiny bits being blackened.

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Back to the Cradle.  Here is where I started the painting process.  I'll try to remember the details but basically I laid down a diluted black undercoat using acrylic and then I threw all the rules out the window and started experimenting with oil, acrylic, gouache and enamel.

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The 'green' here is oil base rubbed on and then rubbed off and left to cure for a day or two.

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Went back in with 'Burnt Sienna' gouache and rubbed on lightly - notice how the previous oil base rub creates a blotchy effect.

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Unifying the colour with a thin coat of either dark grey or black acrylic.

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Weathering highlights added here as an experiment - better to call them 'mid-lights' as I was going to go over them some more.

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If I remember correctly I actually rubbed in some black China Ink, very carefully.

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'Silvering' of the surface - dry brush with acrylic gouache.

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Partial removal of the silvering using very fine sandpaper.

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And here is another view of the rudder with the hinge details painted.

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Thanks to some studious perusal of Masting And Rigging Of Clipper Ships And Ocean Carriers by Harold Underhill (from here on if I reference a book it's likely that one) I was able to start working on the modifying the Yards. 

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Some more work on the Cradle - after additional effect coats, mostly drybrush, I lightly sanded so that some wood just showed.

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The work on the Mizzen Yards continues.

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The kit set up for the Stuns'l Booms was simply to glue them to the yardarms.  After seeing the way others on MSW worked up their more realistic versions I chose to follow suit and fabricated boom irons.  The simplest way I found was to take brass wire of a suitable gauge and flatten a portion of it then form the loop.  I chose to 'shape' the brass before looping it, a file for the initial work but I found that 400 grit black sandpaper was very good for the finishing work.  Then close the loop with silver solder. 

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Blackening in process.  If I haven't mentioned this before, I'm using JAX brand blackening, diluted about 1 part to 10 of water, and it's a 'brown-black' formulation, not pure 'black.'

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I remember this period of the build as being somewhat disarrayed - rather then focus on singular aspects I was jumping all over the place.  For example, I was examining the flotation rings and thought that the 'rope' around it looked clunky ...

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It turned out I was missing a 'deadeye' (if that's what these are called, I've also seen them called 'bulls eyes') and so out comes the Evergreen styrene once again.

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The winches needed work ... in my opinion ...

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One of the spars that was stored on top of a deckhouse was missing.

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Measuring off the location of the eyebolts for the jackstays.

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The anchors were gone so after consultation with fellow members I felt confident enough to begin fabrication of the replacements.

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The process of shaping the replacement spar.

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Flotation rings with traditional red stripes.

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Winches painted.

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The spars with base coat applied and test fit.

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The jackstays.  Brass wire and 2 part slow cure epoxy.

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Anchors before painting.

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Edited by Sailcat

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Back when I first fabricated the Windlass Pump I hadn't a clue what purpose it served.  And although I didn't mind the look of the first attempt as I grew more familiar with the basics of a ship I started feeling a familiar urge.  Thus another re-do of a previously completed part.

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The handles made from brass wire.

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The little touches to make it look more 'real'.

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Edited by Sailcat

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Along with style changes came the inevitable replacement of plastic components with ones made from brass wire.

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I kept the original bell, I still liked it.

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Base coats of colour applied.

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Lots of coats of 'thin' wash.

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Test fit of the bell, the little wire is the gauge used for the jackstays.

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Test fit of the handles.

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A few more minor tweaks during assembly.

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The anchors wouldn't have looked pristine so I used the technique of globbing excess amounts of Humbrol Metal Cote enamel, Gunmetal.  This is the stuff that dries to a dusty matte then you polish it revealing a metal-like sheen.  I allowed a cure time of several days.

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The Yard work continues - painting the Mizzen yards.

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Attaching the boom irons.  Some good views of the jackstays as well.

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Marcus - thenk you for your kind words  :D

 

With the boom irons attached it comes time to paint the yards.

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Mast portions before and after base coat.

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The little deadeyes attached to the crosstrees were shattered so I fabricated some out of plastic.

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The mizzen mast and yards.

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Edited by Sailcat

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Onto the lower mast caps - detailing and modifying to be more 'realistic.'

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The little deadeyes for the crosstrees - instead of trying to be truly authentic I cheated on these.

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Here's a look at the cheat method - similar to how I cheated on the larger deadeyes.

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The little posts in place.

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After some discussion and study I chose to 'weather' the copper as if it has been in water and not in air, thus the oxidation is black and not green patina.

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Edited by Sailcat

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WOW.....

I recall doing some plastic kit ships when I was a teen.... what you are doing I WAY beyond the "plastic model" level ...

at this rate I would love to see what you would do with one of the top end wood kits.... OMG!!!

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*edit* Figuerres - thank you for your kind words  :D

 

A view of the ballasting.  Though I've been told it isn't necessary, I felt more comfortable with the additional weight.  I used scrap hunks of thick steel rod, made 'grab rings' using 2 part epoxy putty and then secured them using 2 part slow cure epoxy.  It might be a bit much I admit ...

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After the first 'overall' washes to 'stain' the copper I went back and started detail washes on portions of the plates themselves to give it that 'multiple repair/different alloy' look.

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Finally I get around to affixing the deck to the hull.

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Edited by Sailcat

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With the deck affixed the next steps are attaching the pinrails and deck structures.

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Around here the Dame started truly taking shape ... and I was confronted by how much more work there was still to do.

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Finally all the 'little bits' I'd been working on for so long are being put in their proper place.  

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Test fit of the masts - a kind of 'spiritual boost' for me.

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Yet despite the progress there is much left to do ...

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The bowsprit in process.

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Using thread for the railings - easier than brass wire as the 'posts' are plastic.  

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The deadeyes modifed with the cheat I utilized.

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The various lines that came with the kit.

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The fore rails with thread lines attached (and these are still waiting to be affixed to the hull).

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A view of the 'workshop table' and the disarray.

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The dolphin striker/martingale in place.

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Cathead whiskers affixed.

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The two different gauges of chain that came with the kit.

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And now begins the first steps of rigging - attaching the fore 'bulls eyes' for the stays.

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Removal of a fife rail in order to access the ringbolts for the stays.

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Attaching the 'bulls eyes' for the bowpsrit stays.

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Cleaned up and detailed spider bands.

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Affixing the deadeyes - for this I used 2 part slow cure epoxy to insure a very strong bond.

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Here's where I started learning how to set up the blocks - something else I had no previous experience with.

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Prepping the boat davits.

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At this point I realized I could not put off the preparations for rigging any longer.  Here's a view of the before and after dyeing process.

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The drying rack set up - I also cats cradled the living room for really long lengths.

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For the dyeing I used acrylic gouache and watercolour pigments - they took well on nylon.  You can see how dark I made the dyeing fluid for this.

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The nylon cord for the standing rigging came wound on cards so I re-wound them to get out the kinks.

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From a lavender cord to something more like hemp rope.

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Storage area and workshop table view ... trying to keep it as organized as possible under the circumstances.

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Kevin - Thank you for your kind words  :D

 

Attaching the 'lashings' for the boats.

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Beginning the process of the footropes for the Yards.  There's a short video tutorial on how to do this which I referenced - someone on MSW probably knows what I speak of.  The blue stuff is insulation foam sheet.

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Continuing on with the footropes.

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After having done all that I realized that I'd mad the stirrups a bit too long, so I went back and started shortening them just a bit.

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A view of the 3 gauges of black nylon I was working with.

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Earlier when I first fabricated the replacement masts I noted an error with the Main mast set.  This is around the time I discovered that error which was basically that I'd completely forgotten the Skysail mast.  So out comes the Evergreen plastic rods once more.

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Working the details for the deadeyes for the crosstrees.  This is a total cheat in that I just glued the lines to the part and didn't create the 'proper' loop.

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The masts with the correct set for the Main mast.

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Attaching the crosstree deadeyes.

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Starting the standing rigging on the masts.

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The shrouds - I tried to do these as authentically as possible - you could say I felt 'guilty' over cheating on the crosstree shrouds.

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Attaching the blocks for later rigging.

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The adventure known as Ratlines begins.

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The method I used for the ratlines was the one detailed by Dan Vad in his Supply Build Log (indexed).

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One of the things I did to help me in the process was source out very thin needles.  On the left is a 'standard' thin needle and on the right is a 'specialty' thin needle.

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Views of the progress ... kind of like stop motion ...

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Stays and lower shrouds being attached.

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Edited by Sailcat

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