NicholasManila Posted January 7, 2021 Share #1 Posted January 7, 2021 Hello everyone, this is my first wooden ship model I have ever built and I'm determined to make a beautiful ship! I've ran into quite an embarrassing road-block my first day and I would like a little help. The first photo is my ship, the second photo is another person's ship. The top frame pieces on my ship are not flush to the keel like they should be on the second photo. The instructions with this kit are not clear at all, am I supposed to cut a larger opening to fit the pieces better? Please excuse my ignorance and thank you for your help! above is my ship above is another user's ship I am comparing mine to bruce d 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Burns Posted January 7, 2021 Share #2 Posted January 7, 2021 Welcome to MSW! Although I've never built this particular model, there are a few completed build logs right here. Have a look here https://modelshipworld.com/topic/16920-greek-warship-bireme-by-moreplovac-finished-amati-scale-135/ . It looks like you might have a bit of filing to do for some reason. One good thing is that 'it's better looking at it than for it' and removing a bit of material is to me better than having to add some. Is there a parts layout on the prints that you can compare with? At any rate it looks like it will make a beautiful model and I look forward to watching it being built Louie da fly 1 Quote Current Build- HMS Winchelsea 1764 1:48 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louie da fly Posted January 7, 2021 Share #3 Posted January 7, 2021 (edited) Welcome to the ranks of galley-builders, Nicholas. Can't answer your question, but I'm sure someone here will be able to help. Are there notches in the false keel that correspond with those two bulkheads, so the slot in the bulkhead slides over the slot in the false keel, as in a halving joint? It's not unusual to have to "bash" a kit to get it right, but gather as much information as you can before you commit yourself to something you might have to repair later . Good luck with it! Steven Edited January 7, 2021 by Louie da fly Quote It's not really a ship model unless you've bled on it. CURRENT BUILDS Venetian merchant Ship from Basilica of San Marco Golden City - Ballarat paddlewheeler FINISHED Australian couta boat RMS Titanic HMVS Cerberus 11th century Byzantine dromon Winchelsea Nef - Late 13th century Mediaeval ship Henry Grace a Dieu - Rebuild of 1:200 model I started in 1967 https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36379-mistydeefer-by-louie-da-fly-finished-restoration-decor-yacht/#comment-1040663 Mistydeefer - restoration of decor model yacht Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodolfo Bigoni Posted January 7, 2021 Share #4 Posted January 7, 2021 Is it possible to see the keel and the frames free, not coupled ? May be it should be possible to evaluate the relative depth. Rodolfo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicholasManila Posted January 7, 2021 Author Share #5 Posted January 7, 2021 one more question, do I apply my BSI insta-cure glue around the edges of the frame? or do I apply it on the openings on the keel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicholasManila Posted January 7, 2021 Author Share #6 Posted January 7, 2021 thank you everyone for your responses I really appreciate it. I found quite a simple solution which involved simply sanding the pieces better so they fit into place better. thank you al! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louie da fly Posted January 8, 2021 Share #7 Posted January 8, 2021 BSI insta-cure glue - that's CA or cyanoacetate (super-glue), yes? A couple of problems with that stuff (apart from its toxic fumes) - first it's not very forgiving - once you put the pieces together you have very little time to make sure you've got it correctly aligned. Second, there are doubts about its longevity. Do a search in the "Search" function (top right of the page) on CA glue - there are several discussions about it. Some people swear by it, but for a newbie it might be better to use PVA (white) glue. I very rarely use CA, I find PVA is best for about 95% of the gluing I do. And when I make a mistake (as we all do), often I can pull it apart and remedy it before the glue has dried. You only need to put glue on the surfaces where the joins between pieces are - I'd be putting a thin layer of glue in both the slots of the false keel and the slots of the frames - if I put glue on only one surface it seems to get soaked up by the other surface and the joint doesn't "make" properly. But that's with PVA - not sure about how it goes with CA. Good to hear you've resolved the problem with the frames fitting properly. Steven Quote It's not really a ship model unless you've bled on it. CURRENT BUILDS Venetian merchant Ship from Basilica of San Marco Golden City - Ballarat paddlewheeler FINISHED Australian couta boat RMS Titanic HMVS Cerberus 11th century Byzantine dromon Winchelsea Nef - Late 13th century Mediaeval ship Henry Grace a Dieu - Rebuild of 1:200 model I started in 1967 https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36379-mistydeefer-by-louie-da-fly-finished-restoration-decor-yacht/#comment-1040663 Mistydeefer - restoration of decor model yacht Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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