modeller_masa Posted January 8, 2021 Share #1 Posted January 8, 2021 (edited) Hello, La Recouvrance from Soclaine made in France is a cheap $100 wooden model ship kit. La recouvrance at brest is a modern sail ship based on 19th century's original name ship. When I started this kit, I had to choose between old 14-canon la recouvrance and modern 6-canon la recouvrance with screw. My choice is...... following a historically inaccurate kit manual due to a lack of skill. 😥 Some of you may remember that I introduced a metal cored mast technique when I joined this forum an year ago. I encountered heavy technical issues I didn't know, especially durability and corrosion, and I decided to stop to build this ship until I solve the issues and prove the metal cored mast is cool new technique. A year has passed. I had no chance to solve the problem because of COVID-19. All public libraries shut down, and material application science was not my major. I don't give up to apply multiple material compounds with wood to wooden model ship, and still think it is a cool idea, but it is time to wrap up 'this kit'. I will finish this kit regardless of metal cored masts. Therefore, please forgive me for not updating the article for years.😪 I didn't touch this kit for an year. All the parts were assembled in 2019 when I wasn't a member of MSW. Here is new comer. I didn't notice this compass tower an year ago. I didn't know how to read drawings properly... and now too. Using 3D printer, I printed out the 4mm x 4mm x 2mm transparent compass chassis. I agree that I'm lazy man. 🤪 You may see many inaccurate or unrealistic parts due to lack of my knowledge and skill. Please don't hesitate to tell me any issues. I may not be able to fix all the issues, but I'll try to reduce them. One of member finished same kit in 2013. Edited January 8, 2021 by modeller_masa ccoyle, EricWilliamMarshall and bruce d 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccoyle Posted January 8, 2021 Share #2 Posted January 8, 2021 I'm very pleased to see another Soclaine kit being featured here, since we rarely see them. True that Soclaine are not on the cutting edge of kit design, but they offer some interesting subjects, and Recouvrance is a beautiful ship. I wish you well on this project! modeller_masa 1 Quote Chris Coyle Greer, South Carolina When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk. - Tuco Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Hawker Hurricane Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modeller_masa Posted January 8, 2021 Author Share #3 Posted January 8, 2021 One of my irony is that I've never seen any REAL sailing ships... If there was no COVID-19, I would visit Europe and watch real HMS Victory or La Recouvrance last year. Until that day comes, I'll fill my shelves with model ships. 😉 EricWilliamMarshall and bruce d 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ofencer29350 Posted January 10, 2021 Share #4 Posted January 10, 2021 (edited) Recouvrance. IS a beautifull ship based at Brest ,i often Saw it ,because i live near,and it was a Tribute to britain to build this kit ,but soclaine did mistakes and now you could buy the aamn plan who IS more realistic. Have a pleasure to build it. Edited January 10, 2021 by ofencer29350 Google translate wrong EricWilliamMarshall and modeller_masa 2 Quote Of the bank I look at an ocean of pleasure, or the tumult attracts you, this global movement will be your tipcart! current build: royal caroline buid finished: la recouvrancehttp://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3025-la-recouvrance-by-ofencer29350/page-2?hl=recouvrance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modeller_masa Posted January 11, 2021 Author Share #5 Posted January 11, 2021 The original kit has no lifeboat. I printed 3d model boat from this link. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:918300 (Free download, Free cultural work license) This 3D model has 35 parts to be a complete motor boat, but I don't need all the parts because of my plan. The bottom of the boat is only part I need. And stand. I also 3d printed storage cabinets. I made my own 3D model. 3D printer resin is quite expensive liquid. The storage cabinet is designed to be empty to save resin. 70% of lifeboat part is done. I'll finish it soon and go to a mast work. ofencer29350 // It is amazing to know that someone in this forum lives near Brest. I completely understand your motivation to build more realistic scratch model of la recouvrance. When I visit Brest in France someday, I'll also try to build a scratch model of her based on thousands of my pictures I'll take. ccoyle and EricWilliamMarshall 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modeller_masa Posted January 13, 2021 Author Share #6 Posted January 13, 2021 (edited) Let's finish the lifeboat part. I added some decorations based on internet pictures. Fake rigging. Fake rigging. 🤨 I don't know a name of this part. Anyway, I couldn't find much information about this part, so I made some of it based on my imagination. A picture before I go to sleep. Edited January 13, 2021 by modeller_masa bruce d, ccoyle and EricWilliamMarshall 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modeller_masa Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share #7 Posted January 20, 2021 (edited) I bought extra belaying pins due to lack of same parts in a kit. It always happens when the kit is cheap. I added support bar under rails for future rigging work. One of three canon door is not located in proper place. I didn't know how to use drawings two years ago. 🤪 This is the most awkward and horrible work I've tried to ignore...... I attached modeling paste and crack filler for bathroom tiles on plankings two years ago... to get a smooth surface...... Now it strikes back at me with non-adhesive surface! I'll scrap all the white surface to use PVA glue. The surface is strong as stone. 😂😂😂😂😂 Edited January 20, 2021 by modeller_masa EricWilliamMarshall and ccoyle 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modeller_masa Posted February 1, 2021 Author Share #8 Posted February 1, 2021 (edited) I couldn't start a work again easily, so I decided to make a todo list. The first homework is drawing waterline. I made a LEGO deck crane to get a level. 😉 It didn't work. My ship is twisted by wrong planking. 😥 Waterline seemed to be ugly. I changed a way to draw waterline. I made three points and connected them. Not good marker for tight spot... I drew well looking waterline and painted it slightly. I'll complete a painting job after the next work. I used an wenge wood which is one of the strongest wood in the world. It is 5.5 times stronger than basswood. 🤩 https://www.wood-database.com/wenge/ I'll turn on a switch of wood lathe tomorrow. Edited February 1, 2021 by modeller_masa EricWilliamMarshall 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modeller_masa Posted February 3, 2021 Author Share #9 Posted February 3, 2021 What I'm feeling these days. (Not sarcasm. Only joke. 😂) This is a thiner and taller bowspirit. It starts from 5.00mm to 4.00mm. The wenge wood is pretty thick. It is almost identical to an 3mm copper rod, so the lathe work was pretty easy and safe. (no vibration unlike basswood or walnut rods.) However, this is also super tough wood. I wasted two lathe chisels. I'll paint it, so I didn't sand it too much. (Wenge is one of tropical oily wood.) It looks good. I cut the holding tip after I took a picture. https://www.cargos-paquebots.net/Reportages_divers/LA_RECOUVRANCE_19-09-2014/La_Recouvrance_09-2014-01.htm This is one of my reference site. A kit's manual and drawings have several questionable points. This site's pictures solve most of my questions. I extended the very end of the bowsprit's tip and added rope holder using mini lathe. (It's 2.40mm brass rod.) The black color is a lacquer paint. The second bowsprit is Burnt Sienna + Vermilion(Hue) 1:1 acrylic paint and Vallejo Matt Varnish. I wanted to make a brass cap at the end of second bowsprit. Unfortunately, poor brass soldering skill didn't let me complete a brass ring... The 0.10mm brass sheet shrinks when I point a gas touch... I'll stick to a lathe and make an end cap using 6.00mm wood rod. 😉 ccoyle, EricWilliamMarshall and bruce d 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modeller_masa Posted February 11, 2021 Author Share #10 Posted February 11, 2021 To fit a figurehead, I narrowed the tip of forekeel from 8.00mm to 5.00mm. I did another mistake. The thicker bowsprit should have 1.00mm gap with slimmer bowsprit. I didn't cut it enough. It doesn't look good, but I decided to skip it because it is functionally correct size at least. 😫 Finally time to hide my huge mistake-planking. Doesn't it look like a cucumber? I spent lots of time to remove spot stains and uneven paintings. I painted it with acrylic green paints and matt transparent lacquer as varnish multiple times. She got very strong coating surface. It is ok to go to the next work... I attached rails. This part is not real. I couldn't get any information about connection between bowsprit and deck. I added this part because of external uniformity. Painted. I'll make a new temporary drydock to protect painted area. This part is the last part before I come back to interesing and funny deck accessory part. I chose 'Padauk' wood because it is hard wood like walnut. Also, I cut the planking to get an additional durability. This is what I intended. Epoxy glue is best for this scenario. I added wire to hold anchors tightly. That wood is regular finewood. I glued it with epoxy glue. I found that anchors' length is a bit oversized. Shellaced and painted. I nailed anchors to hold them tightly. I'll do three more rails during this week and come back to deck work. 😍 ccoyle, EricWilliamMarshall and bruce d 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modeller_masa Posted February 14, 2021 Author Share #11 Posted February 14, 2021 (edited) As I said earlier, I didn't give up to use metal cored mast. I made slightly changed version of metal cored masts which are easier and weaker than before. I used walnut wood and 3x3mm square brass rods instead of default birch wood rods. The CA glue I used last time was not durable, so I changed wood-metal adhesive to epoxy glue. Sliced. Ready to turn lathe. During a slow and boring lathe work, I found more efficient and safer way to make a rod using dremel sanding pad. This method is much quiter than before and took only 2~3 minutes to finish with significantly better result. 🤩 The first mast is done. It starts from 7.00mm to 5.00mm. While I was doing bending test, an original birch wood mast was broken by force while my metal cored walnut mast is ok. I felt that my one is stronger than older one, but not that significant. I calculated a specific modulus of elasticity. This is a diagram of my metal cored masts. The yellow is 3x3mm squar brass rod. The blue color is space for epoxy glue. The brown color is walnut wood. After calculation, I found that my masts are slightly stronger than stock masts. It was pretty easy to make this kind of metal cored masts, but my final goal is 250~300%. (If I used S45C carbon steel square bar, I would have achieved 239% of Rel. MoE. ) If I have huge metal CNC lathe, I would have made full brass mast without question. I would say that this is temporary solution and still has lots of improvement points. Anyway, lower masts are done. Edited February 14, 2021 by modeller_masa bruce d and EricWilliamMarshall 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modeller_masa Posted February 27, 2021 Author Share #12 Posted February 27, 2021 I found my mistake that angles of ankers are wrong. 🤔 (Source : https://www.modelerscentral.com/blog/rigging-tips-for-building-a-model-ship/ ) I tried to make upper masts using brass rod. (5.00mm) I found that I need steady rest for appropriate metal lathe work. Instead of both brass rod or metal cored wood rods, I decided to use wenge wood for thinner masts. It is 2 times stronger than finewood and very easy to work. Jointer between upper and lower mast. The manual said wood stick, so I used brass stick. Not difficult with dremel sanding pad. I used to use epoxy bond as permanent adhesive. I'm using very different types of woods and metals. This is a semi-assembly with temporary CA glue. Alignment with masking tape. And epoxy glue again. Finished. I'll paint it and go to the next work. EricWilliamMarshall and bruce d 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modeller_masa Posted February 28, 2021 Author Share #13 Posted February 28, 2021 The pride of Baltimore is almost identical to my model! I had many difficulties due to lack of build logs of similar ship type. This sister ship will be a really good source for better result. 🤩 I already solved some mysteries regarding end tip of masts. 😆 ccoyle and EricWilliamMarshall 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modeller_masa Posted March 17, 2021 Author Share #14 Posted March 17, 2021 (edited) I slightly fixed windlass to be more realistic. I liked the matt black colored chain, but its size (4.40mm x 3.40mm) is not realistic. So, I bought new antique color chain. (2.00 mm x 1.70 mm) Too much exaggerated expression looks cheap. The manual doesn't show anchors' design, so I copied another schooner's design. Insufficient manual made me to study cathead. I had to research what kind of cathead is in her. I'm not sure it's correct... I made new 3 stranded rope with Gutterman Mara 120 thread. Found that it's not a time to rig anchors. 🤔 Glued them with epoxy bond. The next and final deck accessory is cannon. Of course, the manual omits explanations on the cannon's rigging and stand. I'll refer to the USS Constitution's 32 pound carronade which seems to be the most similar. And then, bowsprit, masts, rigging, and sails. 😀 Edited March 17, 2021 by modeller_masa bruce d and yvesvidal 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modeller_masa Posted March 19, 2021 Author Share #15 Posted March 19, 2021 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carronade I referred the HMS Victory's 68 pounder carronade. Of course, the kit has no spare blocks and rigging threads, so I decided to buy them at local hobby shop. Looks like the artesania 3mm double block is only option I can buy directly in Seoul... Wait... ...... I decided to make my own double block using 3D printer. I read some DIY double block guides on internet, and immitated them. After some trials and errors, I successfully copied an original double block will be used for sail rigging. Estimated expense is 22 cents. I made simple jig for painting the transparent 3d printed blocks. The most important thing is thread. I used 0.20mm nylon thread. It is stiff and has no fuzz. It holds blocks well and keeps them clean while I spray lacquer paint. The size is 2.90 x 3.70 x 3.10mm, and its shape is more realistic than stock double block. 😉 I can make any size at hundreds times cheaper price. When I buy metal lathe and get 1mm brass rollers, I'll make full detailed blocks. I printed additional single blocks for the future rigging. And then, I made cannon stand which is inspired from HMS Victory's 68 pounder carronades. I'll use two kind of threads for cannon rigging as upper picture shown. I'm still having difficulties with controlling the Domanoff PL4-4 machine. It is sensitive machine... bruce d 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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