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Pride of Baltimore 2 by Richvee - Model Shipways - 1:64


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I've decided on the POB2 as my next build. I'll save the rigging of the Medway Longboat for that inevitable time when I get a little tired of this ship. 

 

I've chose this model for a few reasons. 

Lots of interesting deck work

Lots of available resources

Love the lines of this ship, and really like the way it looks under sail. That's the plan going in...To make this my first attempt at sails. 

..And last but not least, while I was contemplating what to make next, the POB2 showed up in a MS email for 50% off. 🤑

 

I've been looking at the first chapter of Robert Hunt's practicum that is available on line, and I'm torn about ordering the package. It's a bit pricey, IMO, and there's a wealth of free info here in the MSW forums. That said, I really like the idea of step by step instruction, since I'm still quite the novice. Reading through the instruction manual that comes with the kit, I can pretty much say they're almost useless. The plans, on the other hand, look good and very detailed. 

 

I've got plenty to do before I would need chapter two of the practicum, since I tend to move at a snail's pace with this hobby. And I'm sure this build won't go any faster. 

The kit arrived and the parts all seem to be in order. The dowels for the masts resemble the letter "U" and will certainly not be used. Maybe I'll try rounding off square stock, or at least get some kind of hardwood dowels that are better than the horrible pine dowels supplied.  Rigging and blocks will have to upgraded as well, as I've already been spoiled after using Siren line and blocks on the Kate Cory. I'll decide as I go how many of the cast metal fittings will be used. Either because they are out of scale, or because I'm going to leave some of the modern touches off this model, such as propellers, or just because they're just plain horrible. 

 

Anyway, the project has begun. Bearding line drawn in using a template that I cut from cardstock, followed by cutting a rabbet.

 

1820741446_beardingtemplate.thumb.jpg.a774ca2d40be8971f34c49f54f38708a.jpg

 

 Stern, keel, and bow glued into position and drying. 

 

238460291_keelsternbow.thumb.jpg.329af50a1e8d5a700a0cdd380bbde06d.jpg

 

reference lines have been drawn on the center keel,

 

847712409_centerkeelreferencelines.thumb.jpg.3e83a963f326b26e90fc5109feb30de9.jpg

 

Next up will be cutting out, marking up, and fitting the bulkheads. 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Richvee
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I just got the POB kit also. I will pull up a chair and follow your build. I have a ship to finish soon and will join you building this kit. I am looking to as they say kit bash mine into a great lakes Schooner if I can find one from the early 1800's since I live in Michigan. 

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35 minutes ago, Cornhusker1956 said:

Rich

Good luck on this build.  This was a ship that I built many years ago, back when my skills were very rudimentary.  I look forward to seeing how it really should be done.  This may tempt me to try again.

 

David

Thanks David.

I'll try my best. It's only my 3rd ship. We'll see how it goes.  

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I have seen a finished example of this kit up close and in person, and it can truly be built into an impressive model. The only thing that bothers me about the kit is the included ship's boat, which I believe is an off-the-shelf item from MS. The real PoB's ship's boat is a thing of beauty, and I think it would be worthwhile to scout around for replacement of the kit item.

 

Good luck!

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One of the new or upcoming ship's boat kits from Vanguard would probably be a passable substitute. Master Korabel also makes great ship's boat kits, but I believe theirs are smaller, i.e. 1/72 scale vs. 1/64 for Vanguard.

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You could also try scratch building the boat based on one of Master Korabel's kits to be of the right scale. Check out Gahm's Syren's log for this. I also followed suit (the process can also be found on my log) and it was a lot of fun to build.

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Thanks for looking in everyone. I'll be sure to check out some other options when the time comes for the ship's boat. Appreciate the pics and link.

 

Right now, I have a novice question I could use some help with. I've cut out and dry fitted the bulkheads. They all slid into their slots nice and snug with very little sanding. All are seated completely in their notches, and all line up nice and level at the deck and all my reference lines. However, bulkheads D,E and F fall below the bearding line. (Same port and starboard)  

 

1290188758_lowDEF.thumb.jpg.23615968eac9c3f6a390b12a9692eb17.jpg

 

 

1186550872_lowDEF2.thumb.jpg.343e2c8b9d09dedf6b8211da137fbc3b.jpg

 

As you can see, my reference lines line up, as do the tops of the bulkheads at the deck

 

2058116260_bulkheaslevelatdeck.thumb.jpg.9111233a4e09b28b342419b9957872b7.jpg

 

 

 

Is this just a matter of fairing the bottom of these 3 bulkheads to fall in line with the bearding line, or do I have some deeper issues.. Like I cut the rabbet too wide? And if that's the case, is there a remedy? 

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Rich

While not an expert I think that when you fair the bulkheads some the overlap will resolve but if it remains a problem then the bulkheads will need to be shortened and faired so that the rabbit line is exposed.

 

As for the ships boat I have attached some pictures of the version in the kit I built.  It is the MS version with a 1994 date on the plans.  Looks pretty close to the other picture.

 

David

9C5887C7-C2B3-4351-9722-C57F4E3013D1.jpeg

E91A84F5-C9F0-49CE-A73A-6B9242E09259.jpeg

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That’s a nice looking boat. I could live with that if I could make my kit supplied boat look similar. 
 

If shortening is needed, I guess one would shim the center keel slot, and sand   the top at deck level?  

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Rich

Very interested to hear what the others following have to say.  I would be very hesitant about the shim/sand solution because it would also change the line up of the reference lines.  I think that if you could adjust just the curvature of the bottom edge (sanding or carving) so that it flows smoothly into the already cut rabbet it should be fine. 

 

David

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A little update. I will proceed with the plan of sanding the bottoms of the offending bulkheads to match the bearding line and run smoothly into the rabbet.

 

The bulkheads have been installed, taking care to square each one up with the keel. I did one at a time, clamped it up, let dry before moving to the next. 

 

1996879146_clampedbulkheads.thumb.jpg.3ad5dd72c6cf0952b589c8720d457346.jpg

 

Added the stern filler blocks. Hopefully I've come close enough on the shape of this thing to make it work. In this photo the port side of the filler block hasn't been faired at all, the starboard has been. Obviously more fairing is needed, but I think it'll be OK. . 

 

934432391_sternfillerblocks.thumb.jpg.37cb1f4b3c03ad6a6e03e27231687368.jpg 

 

I couldn't flip this next pic no matter what I tried. If you turn your head sideways you can see the bulkheads look to line up pretty evenly. ↩️:wacko:

1436934329_flippedsternfillerblocks2(2).thumb.jpg.515da655eb0aad9315c87c69e5524806.jpg

 

I'm happy that I was able to run a steel rule down the center keel and it looks nice and straight.

 

1691152085_striaghtkeel.thumb.jpg.870eea1fdd04c8f92d59e8e5850b746f.jpg

 

I picked up a 2 foot length of 1" x1" balsa today. I think I'm going to add filler blocks between the bow and BH "A", and near the stern, between K and L. Hopefully it will help me not only visualize the curves a little better while fairing, it will give me a little more surface for securing the planks in the most difficult sections of the hull. 

 

Lots of sanding ahead. Until next time...... 

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Rich

I have seen many builds on the forum that have used the balsa filler technique but haven’t had a chance to try it out.  There was one on an Endeavour 1:35 project that used balsa fillers between every BH, over entire 4 ft length.  I agree that this will make the fairing and planking much easier in these areas.  

David

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4 hours ago, Ptfirish said:

Rich:

 

Looking forward to following your build.  Currently working on POBII as my second build.  A little bit ahead of you, but I’m sure you will catch up and pass me very soon as I learn slowly!

 

Pat

Thanks for looking in Pat. Do you have a build log for your POBII? I'd love to see your progress.

 

I wouldn't count on me passing you. I'm a slow worker, and just learning as well. There will be periods when nothing gets done for weeks on end, especially in the spring and summer. Besides yard work, I umpire baseball, so there's times in the boatyard is severely diminished. Which is OK with me. I need the distractions from time to time.   ..

I just noticed it's post #1 from you. Welcome. Take a little time and write a little something in the New members forum. Nice to have you with us. There's a wealth of info here! 

 

 

Edited by Richvee
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Good start Rich. While you still can, I'd advise balsa between every bulkhead. It isn't so much for fairing purposes amidship, but to give you a solid surface for deck planking. The deck planks in the kit are likely fairly narrow and will lay much better over a solid surface. It also allows scale lengths and butt shifts without having to worry about landing on an existing bulkhead. 

 

See my current Benjamin Latham build log for an example. Even though that kit is 1/48 it has 1/16" deck planks. 

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Thanks Joe. The deck planking are indeed 1/16 thick. I think I'm going to take your advice. I've seen others do things to get a sub deck on this mode. This seems like the best method to me, as to not run into any added thickness to the deck which would undoubtedly cause issues with the planksheer and bulwarks. 

 

Your Latham looks tremendous. Years ago, in my early teens,  I lived close to Model Shipways in Bogota, NJ. I built the Taurus (pretty sloppily I may add, as most teens would). I then went for the 1/8" scale Latham. Back then they were all solid hull.  I don't think I ever finished the rigging, but it was my introduction to the hobby, so the Latham holds a special place for me. Maybe I'll try it again some day in 1/4" scale. It's a beautiful ship, and you are doing it justice. (Unlike I did way back when LOL).  

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Thanks Rich. It's a fantastic kit, and the larger scale is nice. I'm really enjoying the build, as it's a nice change of pace from warships. 

 

One other though on the decking... You could go with a 1/32" sub deck and then use 1/32" planking material, which would keep you at scale height. Though, using the balsa filler is still likely easier. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Some progress in between snow shoveling and work. 

 

I've faired the hull, along with sanding those low bulkheads to match the bearding line. Laying a plank across those spots seems to look OK. We'll know for sure when we start planking, I guess. I decided to go ahead and fill between all the bulkheads with balsa, taking the advice of @jwvolz . This being my first attempt at planking a deck, I thought this looked like a good way to go. I would also like to add the hatch and cabin moldings prior to planking the deck, so I though a solid base will give me the best shot at laying down level moldings. 

 

844971984_14.Balsasubdeck.thumb.jpg.199f780c0874c6a6b49299be0cc3037e.jpg

 

I have gone ahead and applied the first plank flush with the deck. this is a single plank, painted black. Above will be the planksheer painted yellow outboard, and below will be the wale also painted yellow. As I've seen in other logs, the only way I'm ever going to get a decent line here is to paint this plank prior to adding the planksheer and wale. 

 

Here we have the first plank installed, and the outboard of the planksheer pieces painted yellow. 

 

2008696857_15.Balsadeckoutboadplanksheerpainted.thumb.jpg.9c2b70552224ac37088c6b0092aa52c7.jpg

Edited by Richvee
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  • 4 weeks later...

Slow going as work gets in the way. It also looks like we'll have a pretty full high school baseball season so I've been spending more free time in the rule book and getting in a little better shape.

I installed the planksheer. I painted the outboard side, again, because I can't see another way to get a crisp line later. 

 

 

Planksheer.thumb.jpg.598355555eaf9bbb7d292945e3165924.jpg

 

It was short at the bow, as many have mentioned. Pretty straight forward fix to add some length. 

 

1271323343_planksheerbowfix.thumb.jpg.a0a69e8aacf1f4e8d4093f401a3d203e.jpg

 

I've added the whales, and I've started the first few strakes after lining off the upper belt. I found myself a nice pair of proportional dividers on E-Bay for under $40. I was amazed at the prices of this little instrument from retail vendors. 

 

394540970_whalesandplanks1.thumb.jpg.9797fbce2f23e161cab7c4f433430aad.jpg

 

bowwhales.thumb.jpg.72210509c7f60020011945d65c9cf77d.jpg

 

 

 The whales are painted, but I'll need to sand them more. The paint was more to get color on the top of the first whale strake, again, the only way to get a clean line for me. 

 

 

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  • 5 months later...

It's been a busy summer. Baseball was back in full swing, (pun intended), and work is as busy as ever, and help is real hard to come by these days, so there's been minimum shop time until the past week or so. I did manage to reach a bit of a milestone. Belt "A" is planked. I've been doing a little rough sanding as I go in hopes of easing the final finishing when the hull is completely planked. I'm pretty happy with the results so far, being my first attempt at cutting planks. Chuck's Longboat was a nice primer, however it was real nice have precut and spilled planks. So there's plenty lessons being learned on this model. Anyway, here's what the first belt looks like today. 

 

plankingbeltone.thumb.jpg.6307e92676dab977f41b814282eb1053.jpg

 

plankingbeltone(2).thumb.jpg.90696adfa8c1f62eb43ab1b369d7c437.jpg

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