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Biloxi schooner by Russ - 1/48 scale POB - Finished


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John:

Thanks.

 

Getting the fit on the very outer planks was not the easiest. In the center and about 5-6 strakes out, it was just about simple cuts and making a nice subtle curve. Those last two strakes were tough. Although I have seen evidence of nibbing on some schooners down here, the little contemporary photographic evidence I have seen shows none. That makes it tough to get those outer planks to fit with such a long subtle curve to cut.

 

I wear head band magnifiers so that if the joints look good under magnification, they will look good when viewed with the naked eye. :)

 

Russ

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More progress tonight. Now that the deck is planked, the next thing will be the deadeyes and chainplates. My first pass at these was ... bad. Really bad. So, I decided to reengineer the chainplates a bit. Hopefully, this attempt will be better.

 

The important issue is scale. The lower deadeyes and chainplates will all be painted white, but they need to appear in scale. That means everything has to be smaller than what I am used to working with. The chainplate is a simple strap with a loop soldered into its top end. However, there needs to be at least two fastenings for the strap into the hull. At this size and scale, that is a problem. The brass nails I have in stock are too large. So, I have made the strap with its loop and then drilled two holes in the strap into which two pieces of brass wire were soldered. The outer edges of each wire was trimmed and left just proud of the strap to appear like bolt heads. The wires go into the holes in the side of the hull. I will probably add a dab of CA to secure them. Even without glue, they are snug in their holes, but the CA should give some strength as well. 

 

Here are some pics. I still need to clean up the shape of the strap, but it should look okay once the hull is painted. There will be a wooden cap over the edge of the rail hiding that tear out along the edge of the rail. The strap is about 1/32" wide and the holes for the wires are .018" diameter.

 

Questions and comments welcomed.

 

Russ

 

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Russ,

Rather than marring the rails, you might try cutting a slot (though yours may be a bit small). I borrowed from a tool used to cut hinge slots in RC airplanes. The tool had two blades, one was sharpened to a point and the second had a sharpened vee notch. The point makes the slot and the vee cleans the slot. I made my tool using the same strap as the chain plates .063 x .014 inch. Teh vee notch is just visible at the top end. Your strip may be too small make a practical tool.

 

Dave B

 

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Dave:

Thanks very much for the suggestion, but mine have to be cut in from outside of the railing and then have the cap placed over the edge of the railing. That is a well known local method that shows in many old photos. I just need to be more careful in my use of the file. :)

 

Nice work on your model, by the by. :)

 

Russ

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Here is a photograph from the 1920s showing one type of chainplate arrangement for a local schooner. Note the cap over the edge of the rail.

 

My deadeye strap will be greatly simplified for the current model, but in the future I plan to build a plank on frame version at 1/24 scale which will incorporate this kind of deadeye strap.

 

Russ

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My plan is to build the large scale model fully framed. I have the drawings nearly completed, but I still need to add a lot of details. I also need to get more done in the shop before I can begin the larger model.

 

Russ

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Russ, it's been a pleasure catching up on your latest work--all very nicely done!  Wow, the size of those chain plates you made--1/32" makes my eyes hurt (thank goodness for our magnification visors--I often think that's the best tool I have in my box!)--and really liked how you made the pins for them--well done!    

 

Glad you're getting some time in the shop, and I'll look forward to your 1/24 build when you start her:  fully framed will be a beauty to see!

 

Cheers,

Jay

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