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Biloxi schooner by Russ - 1/48 scale POB - Finished


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David
It may take a few thin coats, but I will be able to get it done. In all of the contemporary pics of these schooners, the chainplates and lower deadeyes are always painted, so this is really the way to go.

 

Russ

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considering the scale of your build Russ.........they look very good!

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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Thanks. I am taking refuge in the scale limitations and a coat of paint. :)

 

Seriously, I am hopeful that I can improve on this method as time goes on. It is always a learning process.

 

All the same, I think the next one will be at the larger scale. That will make things a lot easier. :)

 

Russ

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A fellow modeler I know who goes for 1/350 WWII once told me that a well done coat of paint and hide a hundred mistakes.             

David B

Edited by dgbot
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Michael:

That sounds like good advice.

 

I hope to one day be able to do a better job at this scale. Practice makes perfect they say. I will settle for pretty good.

 

Russ

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Sam:

Thanks for those too kind words. I am learning new things with every part I make. That is one of things I love about model building.

 

Russ

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Eyup:

Thanks for the kind words. It is always appreciated. I hope I can live up to the expectations. :)

 

Russ

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The main deadeyes and chainplates have been fabricated. I still need to make the cap over the edge of the railing. I am not sure if I will stick with these assemblies or give it another try. I am concerned about the inconsistent height of the deadeyes. Once the assemblies are painted, they will look okay, but....

 

Late tonight I decided to make a few more deadeyes and broke two consecutive pieces while making them. That told me to walk away and try again tomorrow.

 

Russ

post-164-0-97892400-1402206133_thumb.jpg

Edited by russ
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Having looked at the photograph and thought about it a bit, I have decided to do some experimenting to try and improve my technique for these deadeye and chainplate assemblies. They just do not look very good. I will let you all know how it goes.

 

Russ

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Russ,

 

She does look good, beter even. Your remark about the deadeyes and chainplates made me ponder on it too. The deadeyes do look a bit small compared to the chainplates ... If you made the chainplates of soldered wire, would that not be more in ratio?

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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Carl:

Thanks for looking in and your kind words. I have been remaking the chainplates this afternoon and I will post photos of them later. I think narrower chainplates are what was needed. The wider chainplates made the assemblies look rather bulky.

 

Russ

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Here is a second pass at the main deadeyes and chainplates. The chainplates are much better in that they are nearly right on the design width, about 3/64". The height of the deadeyes above the rail is good and they are just about equal in height. I think once the cap is in place and everything is painted, this approach will work. The key for me is to keep the chainplate width as close as possible to 3/64".

 

Russ

 

 

post-164-0-27700200-1402293828_thumb.jpg

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Russ, one of the ways I have used for making brass stripping is to cement the sheet between two pieces of wood with contact cement. Then I would cut to width on my Preac. I have gotten down to 1/32 many times

David B

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David:

Thanks for the suggestion. I have no problem cutting the brass strips. I have a handy pair of scissors that can cut just about anything and they do so without rough edges or distortion. I just need to pay more attention to what I am doing. I designed them at 3/64" wide and I lost track of that number as I was having too much fun drilling holes in the chainplates and soldering pins in them.  :)

 

Elia:

Thanks. I am much happier with these.

 

Thanks for the all the likes as well. I apologize for this bit of tedium.

 

Russ

Edited by russ
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  you have to experiment with it............some ideas take more than others  ;)     your second attempt looks very good.

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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Sam:

Thanks for the kind words. I do not want to bore anyone with my reports. I am glad if something I offer helps. I am always learning from others work here on MSW as well.

 

Popeye:

Thanks for the kind words.

 

Thanks everyone for the likes. I appreciate it.

 

Russ

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Hi Russ , do you have any contact with a jeweler? They have a roll mill. Some time ago I was at My jeweler friends place and ran a bunch of different copper wires through her roll mill and wound up with quite a few different coils of copper strips from the different wires enough in fact for a lifetime.

 

post-202-0-52840700-1402368134_thumb.jpg

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Michael:

Thanks for the idea. I have plenty of brass sheet from which I can cut strips of any width I need. It is a simple matter of me paying more attention to what I am doing and, you know, maybe checking my own plans every now and again. :)

 

Russ

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  • 2 weeks later...

I enjoy watching your build.

And I was wondering - When is the boat show?  I still want to see photos of the real boats (or replicas).

Cheers.

Ken

 

NO PIRACY 4 ME! (SUPPORTING CHUCKS' IDEA)

 

Current Build:  

Washington 1776 Galley

Pilot Boat Mary of Norfolk

Completed Builds:

Continental Boat Providence   (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Continental Ship Independence  (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Rattlesnake   (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Armed Virginia Sloop  (from Completed Gallery)

Fair American (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build Log)

 

MemberShip Model Society of New Jersey

                  Nautical Research Guild

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Ken:

Thanks for dropping by.

 

The boat show was back in May. If you look in the Model Ship Clubs and Exhibitions and Events forum there is a thread where I posted photos of the Billy Creel Memorial Wooden Boat Show.

 

Russ

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Nice job on the redo of the chain plates...... really look good!

 

Frank

completed build: Delta River Co. Riverboat     HMAT SUPPLY

                        

                         USRC "ALERT"

 

in progress: Red Dragon  (Chinese junk)

                      

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Frank:

Thanks. I am much happier with these chainplates. I need to find some time to work on the port side chainplates now.

 

Russ

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