Cutty Sark by My Fathers Son - Restoration

[Keith Black]

 Nicely done. 

[NenadM]

Go on!

[My Fathers Son]

On 5/16/2021 at 10:36 AM, My Fathers Son said:

Hi all,

 

You know when you look at something and it bugs you but you cant quite see what the issue is? Well, it has hit me what is bugging me, the Mizzen mast is too short. The confused scale of this model is getting to me a bit, but I can see what is wrong now. One, the lower mast is too short, not by much but enough to notice. When I compare the proportions of the three masts, the Fore and Main Masts are in proprtion but the Mizzen c omes up a little short. Part of this is dads error, he shorted it about 1cm and the other cm is down to me. When I reworked the hounds, I overdid the overlap. The reason this happened is I did the Mizzen first and just adjusted the joint by removing material from the rear of the base of the centre mast and adding to the from, but on the other two, I actually added extra material below and shaped the joint to create the space for the Shrouds to pass between the masts. I can add a cm to the base of the mast, this will be below decks and wont interfere with the structuarl integrity, but will bring the Hound up in close allignment to the other masts. Bah humbug, but I am not certain whether to undo the hound as there is a fair bit of ironwork already installed.

 

 

Well it got to me, I could not stare at it any more to the point that I was ever going to be satisfied with the look of this without dealing with this mast. Also, fiddling with bits of the mast, trying to adjust the length of the lower mast was not going to work so I am remaking this section of the mast, sorry dad, but yours had to be replaced, I am keeping the the mid and upper sections.

 

This gives me the chance to learn from my first attemps on the iron work which while ok, but were not the best I can achieve.

Having read NenadM's comments on the scale of the bands on this section, I have bought a supply of 8mm brass belaying pins. I know they are way to big for scale but for practicality, they will at least hold the ropes and give me the chance to apply the rope 2-3 turns and still have a bit of room to hang the ends loops of rope for the lines.  

 

When making the lowest band, I will install 6 hoops aligned vertically for the blocks to hook onto and horizontal in the next hoop for belaying pins. I will also change the universal joint on the lower gaff to match the design of the one on the upper gaff but hope to refine the finish a bit.

 

If at first you dont succeed, try, try again.

 

Simon

[NenadM]

Some parts  I made in 3th or 4th attempt, until I get what looks good. But, when rope's lines get there, maybe it will be more attempts

[My Fathers Son]

Hi all, 

 

I am looking at making the Fairleads for the foredeck and am struggling a bit on size and design. These are mounted on the topgallant rail which was Teak 6-1/2" x 3-1/2" and looking at the image of the real thing, this looks to be about 3 1/2" wide and a ration of 1:13 against its length. At 1:100 that makes it about 1mm wide and 13mm long and just over 1mm high. That seems very small and I am not going to be able to make this with a central post, two roller posts and the shoulders to cover these.

 

Worse still, I couldn't see anything sutable on Cornwall Model Boats website. Any idea's?

 

[Kevin]

just found your build and love the project you are undertaking, good luck with the rest of the build, i will be happy following along behind you

[My Fathers Son]

Not much got done this weekend but I heard about a model shop that specialised in Boats and it is located in Chatham historic boatyard. Well, the shop was a bit of a dissapointment as it was very limited in stock but I still managed to get some things. However, it was a lovely day weatherwise and the Dockyard is free to visit, so phone in hand, I started to have a look around. There are three ships onsite. HMS Gannett, 1882 hull with 4 guns. The upper decks and masters cabin were open so I had a walk round. She is still afloat in Dock no 5 but the water is dead and green as a result of the copper cladding.

 

In dry dock no 4, is HMS Ocelot, a 1962 Cold war Oberon class submarine. She is closed to visitors as there is no chance of Social distancing in a submarine.

 

In dock no 3 is HMS Cavalier, she is also afloat. She is a 1944 Destroyer that was updated and refitted in the 50's and retired in the 60's.

 

 

There is also a fantastic indoor sheed houseing WW2 vehicles, miscelaneous boats and item's plus lifeboats through the ages.

 

These are just a few of the images.

 

 

[LeoM]

I went through your build log and I am delighted by the work you are doing.

Thanks for sharing your story about father.

 

Leo

 

[My Fathers Son]

On 6/7/2021 at 11:01 PM, LeoM said:

I went through your build log and I am delighted by the work you are doing.

Thanks for sharing your story about father.

 

Leo

 

Thanks Leo, I allways appreciate all the comments and support I have received on this forum, it has helped a lot.

[My Fathers Son]

Ok, two things have happened that are helping me in my quest. Firstly, I have found digital copies of Campbells drawings of the CS that is the layout, the sail plan and rigging plan. From what I can see and from looking at images of the actual boat, there are a few differences plus I am working with a base that is not strictly to scale. This does however give me enough of an idea on what I need to do and I would never have been able to get my head around the rigging without something like this.

 

Secondly, I have bought a Kindle version of a book called Ship Modelling Simplified. This is helping me a lot in setting out an order of things that need to be done reinforcing my Admirals mantra of Finish the deck fittings first.

 

I had started out on finishing of the Stern and moving forward but the book tells me to start from the forward position and work towards the Stern, so that is what I am doing. In the mean time I had made an attempt at installing some of the standing rigging on the mizzen mast.

 

The above are my first attemps at Lanyards and Deadeys. I had tried a single piece of wire bent at each end to standardise the distance between the deadeyes but I struggled with this. So I made a tool consisting of a stripp of lite ply, 5mm by 60mm, with two pairs of wire on which I can mount two deadeyes. These keep the deadeyes in the correct position. I mounted the lower deadeyes and lashed them to the mast below the platform. I then added my tool and connected it to the lower deadeye and had another on the upper pins. I was then able to loop the stroud around the deadeye and clip both the rope together up the stroud. I could the seize this in place in two places and a touch of CA on the seizing keeps the whole thing in plaace with consistand distancing and direction of the deadeye. 

 

I could then remove the tool and thread the lanyard in the correct order with tension and the final length is looped onto the seizing on top of the upper deadeye. 

 

 

Moving to the front of herI have secured the jib boom in place and installed the chains that support it from below. I have changed the original Cathead so it exists both inside and outside of the hull. Not easy to see here but I also made whiskers and CA'ed them to the Catheads.

 

I am now experimenting with making my own cables with copper wire I have stripped from coils from a dead ECU from a domestic boiler. One thread is very thin. I have spun 3 lengths together which you can see hanging of the bow, but I think I need to add more lengths to pruce a realistic cable strong enough to stabalise the Job Boom.

 

Need to read a bit more of the book to see what is next, but I suspect finishing the Capstan and Windlass is the next in line.

 

TTFN

 

Simon

 

 

[My Fathers Son]

The cables came out quite well. I had two grades of copper wire extracted from a Control board for a Boiler, the smallest grade needed ssix strands of wire to create something that was acceptable but the other heavier grade needed just two strands. I spun this using my Lidl Drill and have used this to create the stays for the jib boom.

 

I have glued the capstan in place and made the rocker for the pump. I will make racks for the handles for this and the bars for the Capstan. The Fairleads are wrong, it is supposed to have one Post and two rollers under the shoulders but I just cant get them in this scale and try as I might, I haven't found a way I can make them. Its something I can look at this in the future as they are easily accessible.

 

 I have also installed the ships bell.

 

 

 

You can see I have used a little bit of artistic licence on the connectors for the Cable stays for the Jib.

 

Just a bit of a cleanup and varnish required in this area and find out where the deck bolts have to be for the rigging.

 

 

[LeoM]

You are progressing well and things are looking great!

[My Fathers Son]

Ok, so before last weekend, she was looking like this.

 

I have since finished the TopGallant and Royal Shrouds on the Mizzen mast bar the Ratlines. I have also installed most of the hardware on the Foremast and the Futtock Shrouds on there as well. I have started the Topgallant Shroud on there but still have to thread the Lanyards on the starboard side. I still have the Cross Tree to assemble for this mast and two spider bands for the foot of the mast.

 

I am content with how the foredeck is looking. I made the pump cross piece and this operates the rods that connect to the windlass, I will be hanging two handles for this on the side of the Heads, along with the rods for the winch. There may be deck bolts I need to install but can't identify them at the moment.

 

 

I have cleaned up the yards for the foremast and painted the course yard black. I have installed the rod accross the top of each yard but have still to create the climbing lines on these. I have also still to create the centre braces for the Royal and Skysail yards in a similar style to the one I created for the Topgallant Yard. This will leave the blocks for the running rigging to attach.

 

 

I am in two minds over what to do for the Stunsails. I can see from Cambells drawings that there are Stunsail yards and sails fitted and in her restored state in Greenwich she definitly has the yards installed. Dad did not create these yards and looking at the older images of her, they were not there.

 

 

If I am going to add them, I have to decide now so I can make the yards and install them. 

 

Decisions, decisions.

[My Fathers Son]

Still have not made my mind up regarding the stunsails but have completed the Spreader on the crosstree, the Topgallant and Royal Shrouds and started on the ratlines on the Foremast. Its a good job that my mother hammered in to me that patience is a virtue.

 

I have also made the two spider bands at the base of the mast although ooking at this installed on the boat, they are mounted a little high.

 

 

Question, do I install the yards before or after I mount the mast on the boat? I have installed the sturdier fittings on the yards but not the foot ropes or block and tacles of the running rigging.

 

Also, the drop of the foot rpoes is a bit vexing at present. The difference is going to be small at this scale as 3ft is 10mm and 4ft is 13.3mm. In order for the sailor to balance on these, the centre of gravity would need to be below the level of the yard. These gentlement woud have been fit so their COG would be quite high but being 19th century gentlement would likely have been on average about 5' 8". I am tempted to measure the stays on these at 12mm as a compromise working on the basis that the rope would sag at the point the sailor was standing and the yard would have been just below chest height, or should that have been waist height.

 

As always, any hints or help on this subject would be greatly appreciated.

 

Simon

[Kevin]

personally i would mount the masts first, as all the standing rigging will be hampered by the spars, and then mount the yards with all the required footings and blocks

Edited July 2, 2021 by Kevin

[My Fathers Son]

The trouble with living and working close together is my car never gets a good run, so Saturday, I went to Worthing in Sussex to have a nose round the Sussex Model Centre. It's a fantastic shop but concentrates on RC or Plastic Models. Plenty of raw materials though but only small selection of bespoke parts and I am short on dead eyes. I was able to pick up 20 but that still leaves me short by 80.

 

Still, the staff in there know their stuff and put themselves out to be helpful so happy to recommend them, just need to know what you are going for.

 

They did have some 3mm dowel so I can have a go at the stunsail booms.

 

Spent the evening fitting out the main mast, still have the spreaders and Royal Shrouds to finish of before I can install it on the Hull.

 

I am holding of fixing in any mast until I have enough deadeyes and unfortunately I do not have enough to complete one yet.

 

Just going to have to swallow the delivery cost, bah humbug.

 

Simon

[My Fathers Son]

Well, that is the Main Mast ready to be installed. That is the last mast to be fitted out, just have a few bits to add to the Mizzen but that wont take too long.

 

 

I have ordered my outstanding deadeyes from Cornwall Model Boats and if they are true to form, they will arrive Wednesday/Thursday of this week.

 

Simon

[My Fathers Son]

So yesterday, in preparartion for the receipt of the supply of my deadeyes, I cleared down the deck, made sure everything was secure and cleaned up any surplus glue stains. Then two coats of Humbrol Matt Cote varnish on everything.

 

 

Err, ignore the homemade micro saw resting on the boat racks. BTW, the wire on the end of this was dads solution to mounting the yards on the masts.

 

Simon

[My Fathers Son]

Spent some time on the saddle blocks on the skysail and upper top gallant yards this morning 

 

I will shape brass wire to form the restraints to hold these to the mast. This should be a loose fit and the masts suspended from chains. I might still file these down a bit as they are a bit heavy.

 

The jackstays are a bit heavy but thus is the smallest I could get them.

 

Simon

[My Fathers Son]

As I am getting close to mounting the masts, I have been looking at what angle should me at. I have read somewhere that the Fore would have a rake of 1 1/4" per foot, the Main at 1 1/2" per foot and Mizzen at 1 3/4" per foot.

 

Does this sound reasonable?

 

[My Fathers Son]

 

Taking my time on the Foremaat shrouds. Threading the lower deadeyes is a challenge. There is just no space between the deadeye and the gunwhale. I used ca glue on the shrouds higher up the masts, simply put a small amount on the end of the thread and you have a needle that is part of the thread. Can't do this down below as I can't get a short enough glue section and feed it through.

 

Using a needle threader works fine on  the top deadeyes but the wire doesn't penatrate far enough to open up on the lower ones. I made a tool with very fine wire loop on the end and passed it through but I then struggled to serate the wires once I had them through the other side.

 

Patience is a virtue but I can't do more than two shrouds per evening at this rate.

[LeoM]

On 7/10/2021 at 1:27 PM, My Fathers Son said:

As I am getting close to mounting the masts, I have been looking at what angle should me at. I have read somewhere that the Fore would have a rake of 1 1/4" per foot, the Main at 1 1/2" per foot and Mizzen at 1 3/4" per foot.

 

Does this sound reasonable?

 

According to Longridge the rakes are 84, 85 and 86 degrees for mizzen, main and fore masts respectively. Your measurements translate to about 81.6 82.8 and 84.0 

[Keith Black]

1 hour ago, My Fathers Son said:

Taking my time on the Foremaat shrouds. Threading the lower deadeyes is a challenge. There is just no space between the deadeye and the gunwhale. I used ca glue on the shrouds higher up the masts, simply put a small amount on the end of the thread and you have a needle that is part of the thread. Can't do this down below as I can't get a short enough glue section and feed it through.

 

Using a needle threader works fine on  the top deadeyes but the wire doesn't penatrate far enough to open up on the lower ones. I made a tool with very fine wire loop on the end and passed it through but I then struggled to serate the wires once I had them through the other side.

 

Patience is a virtue but I can't do more than two shrouds per evening at this rate.

 I have the same issue, I am going to thread the lower and top deadeyes together off ship leaving the thread loose where I can adjust the distance between the two deadeyes once the deadeye chain has been attached to the hull. 

[My Fathers Son]

49 minutes ago, Keith Black said:

 I have the same issue, I am going to thread the lower and top deadeyes together off ship leaving the thread loose where I can adjust the distance between the two deadeyes once the deadeye chain has been attached to the hull. 

I will try that as I have not installed the lower deadeyes for the main master.

 

I was thinking I would find a needle the fits though the deadeye and grind away a section of the eye of the needle. I should be able to pull the thread through. Might have to shorten the needle as well so it fits in tight corners.

[GrandpaPhil]

The Cutty Sark is looking great!

 

Something that works for me when rigging in a tight space is to take the part of the thread where you’ve put the CA and bend it into a hook shape.  It will hold the shape and still thread through your block or deadeye, but curve out to where you can grab it with tweezers.  I had the same problem with the Prince de Neufchatel.

[My Fathers Son]

36 minutes ago, GrandpaPhil said:

The Cutty Sark is looking great!

 

Something that works for me when rigging in a tight space is to take the part of the thread where you’ve put the CA and bend it into a hook shape.  It will hold the shape and still thread through your block or deadeye, but curve out to where you can grab it with tweezers.  I had the same problem with the Prince de Neufchatel.

I did try that but the problem is my aging eyes struggle to focus in the space and it doesn't help that I am trying to feed the thread through from the constricted side.

 

It just occurred to me that I could  load the thing in reverse and add tension afterwards. To tired in the evenings to think outside the box, 😆. 

[My Fathers Son]

Sorry about the gap in my posts, but I have not had much time to spend on my project.

 

Well threading the deadeyes in reverse works a treat. Because I am threading from an accessible angle, I can get the CA'd end through the blocks and grab the end with fine point tweezers.

 

Once you have got the thread through the last eye, knot it and then start to pull back through the blocks and apply a little tension. The blocks hold the tension nicely after pulling each part through in order and you can then tie off the end neatly above the Deadeye.

 

The foremast is done with the Shrouds and backstays and I am now moving on to the Main Mast. I will leave the Forestays until after I have hung the yards in place as they will compete for space.

 

Pictures will follow later this weekend.

 

[My Fathers Son]

As promised, a couple of images of progress.

 

I am reconsidering the Datlines as this looks on the heavy side, so may unpick this and start again. I have since installed the Belaying pins, 7mm brass but an short again. Time for more shopping.

 

 

I have some cog wheels on order because I want to have a try at seizing a cable and should have enough to make a basic ropewalk as well.

 

Onwards and upwards. 

 

Simon

[LeoM]

Looks great, Simon !

[My Fathers Son]

I started installing the Shrouds on the main mast and realised that in doing so, I would be restricting access to the ships boats, and in particular, the mounts on which they sit. I have not been happy with the two lifeboats, I know I could do better so bit the bullet and took time out on the rigging this week to construct a matching pair of life boats.

 

So first, I set out to find a decent drawing of life boats and struggled a bit to find one of the type in Cambells drawings. I did however find this.

 

 

So I used the Windows Snip and Draw app to scale these to a boat that would be 25ft (about 80mm or a bit less) and drew out the profiles for the rib sections. However, I had decided that I would only make one set of these and use them to design a template and use that to build the hulls.

 

These are set in place on two toothpicks inserted through holes drilled through each piece and then the whole thing was sanded to reflect the proper profile.

 

I then cut out 2 matching Keels to fit over the template. These are two layers of coffee stirrers and I alternated the joints to add strength.

 

 

I then set the Keel on the template but this is simply placed there, not fixed in place. 

 

I then started planking, from the keel down. The strakes were spot glued with CA to the Keel, Stem and Stern Posts being carefull not to get the glue to go through and stick to the template. I did wax the template as well. Moving from side to side, I built it up, removing it from the jig frequently to unstick the parts from the jig as careful as I was, the glue still seeped through in places. As I finished a boat, I left it on the jig overnight to set up the glue, after a litle light sanding of course. The wood is Basswood 1/32 thick so there is not much scope for sanding, but as I knew I would be paainting this, I was not overly worried about it being a bit transparent.

 

 

I then cut and bent basswood strips for ribs to add a bit of detail and strength. Note the specialist tool for wood bending. I would heat the copper pipe with the torch and then wrap the wetted strip around the 15mm copper pipe while it cooled down. The results were not unsatisfactory.

 

 

I am in the process of installing seats and location hole for a Mast. I will create a few brass pins to emulate the rollocks and have a go at a few oars and a mast with a gaff rig, nearly finished but bit of tidying up of the paint work.