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Norwegian Sailing Pram by bobandlucy - Finished - Model Shipways - Scale 1:12


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I assembled the bow transom per the instructions. No problem there. When I began on the stern transom - different story. The instructions called for the use of a sanding bevel included with the kit. Cool idea, and one I will remember for the future. The problem arose when the printed instructions read "Turn the [lower] transom so that the bevel marks are facing away from you." If I had my wits about me I would have noticed that the accompanying photo shows the bevel marks facing the camera. I did as the written instructions indicated, because it seemed to jive with the instructions given for beveling the upper stern transom, and after all why would one write such an explicit instruction if wrong? Wrong! (2nd pic below, with pieces held together as they will be glued). As you can see, if assembled this way, it would not result in good joint, and besides would collect and hold water.

 

I think this will be remedied by transferring the bevel marks on the lower stern transom to the other side, and flipping it. 

 

I noticed that the majority of people logging this build did not do this beveling? Hard to tell from the pictures, and even harder from the pic in the supplied instruction booklet. . .

 

This hurt my brain cell, but after all this is partly the reason to take up a new hobby- to keep the cell alive and keep it company, since all his buddies have died.

 

Lessons learned: 

 

  1. Understand what I'm doing at all times. If the result can't be envisioned, DO NOT PROCEED.

  2. Look at the instructions in PDF format as the pics can be zoomed.

  3. Do not be dismayed, as almost everything is fixable.

 

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Edited by bobandlucy
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15 hours ago, bobandlucy said:

I think this will be remedied by transferring the bevel marks on the lower stern transom to the other side, and flipping it.

 

Bob, I think your solution is correct.  I downloaded the instructions from the Model-Expo site and the drawing on page three shows the bevels on the two part transom.  As long as your parts match the drawing, you should be fine.  This kit builds into a very nice model and I look forward to following your progress.

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I botched a part and am waiting for it's replacement. Therefore the hull construction is on hold. I decided to build the sail.  Another problem arose as I used the sail pattern as supplied assuming it was to scale. It was not, and the sail is somewhat undersized. Looking at another log for this model, I see the same results, and it still looks OK, so I will proceed. The photos show the holes/cleats on the upper and lower spars more or less lining up with the sail corner holes. Since the sail is undersized, the choices are to align one end or the other, and "reach" with the lashing to the hole or cleat on the spar, or split the difference and "reach" on both ends of the sail. I am leaning towards centering the sail. 

 

I am quite happy with the teaching David A. does in this kit. Shaping tips, use of jigs, etc. 

 

First pic is my sail, second is from the instruction booklet. Apologies for my long-windedness.

 

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I'd like to give credit to John and Ed at Model Expo. They have been very responsive in providing the replacement part, listening to feedback, etc. Ed indicated that there is no errata sheet for this model at this time, but he was open to the idea of producing one. This attitude will weigh in my decision to order the lobster smack model next or just plunge into one of the more advanced models which I have.

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Assembled the sail. I thought I'd never get it right, but am happy with the results. I had broken the boom at the eye towards the center during shaping, and the break is visible, but I can live with that.  Definitely going to order a headband magnifier today as the tabletop model I've been using was in the way throughout the lashing/lacing operation. 

 

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Edited by bobandlucy
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Bob, the sail looks great!  Just finished with the display stand and working now on the mast and all of its components.  Will be getting to the sail soon enough and will be looking again in more detail to your log here.  Congrats and great job!  

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I assembled the building board. It took quite a bit of modification to get the forms to seat, and the transom holders had to be modified with the razor saw, they were way off dimensionally. Since the kit came with an extra keel plank, I decided to try out my electric planking tool. I am very pleased with this method. The grain remains flat and I got a really good fit. It took me a while, but I imagine I'll get faster at it. The plank lies in contact at all 4 points without the need for clamping! The marks visible on the plank are from the char on the form supplied with the planking tool. I'll have to clean that up before I use it again. The marks do sand off easily.

 

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Great job on the planks, Bob!  Glad to see the electric planking tool worked well.  I have one, as well, but was a bit afraid to us it on this wood.  As I continue on in this hobby, some of the other ship planks may require use of something like this tool, so it's good to get the experience!  I'll have my shot eventually.  Your mast looks great, too!  I'm working on the sail and then the lashing, so my "thin mast" issues will need to be addressed soon.

 

Great job!  Keep sailing away!

 

Gregg

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Glued the three bottom planks on today and had a lot of problems. I'm not going to relate all the details, but the major problem was warping of the building board and inaccuracies in the molding frames as supplied. The building board and molds are inadequate in thickness as noted elsewhere, and there was a sizable error in centerline for molds-to-building board. I did a pretty good job in plank bending and don't think that stress from the planks contributed to the problem. I made some adjustments.  I decided that additional attempts to correct might  be more destructive than helpful. This is a learning kit, and I am learning. So, onward!

 

 

 

 

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Finished planking. Naturally, the side planks were more difficult to fit. Ended up beyond the intended line at the rear transom and will have to increase rear transom vertical dimension to compensate. I was very careful, but failed to hit the mark in all respects.  This is the best I could do at this time. 

 

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Edited by bobandlucy
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Looks good, Bob!  I had similar issues/concerns about "hitting the line"... Everyone's is a bit different, making them unique in a sense.  But, if they all sail when done, we've done ok... This first one for me has truly been a learning experience.  Taking a long time for me on the lashing/lacing.  Keep moving forward!

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She is free of the building board! Glued in the quarter knees, dagger case, and internal frames. I found these parts difficult. Will have some gaps to fill, and I can see that material might have to be subtracted at some support points for the thwarts and stern sheet in order for these to sit nicely. I have done a better job controlling/removing glue squeeze out this time. Getting close to painting of the hull, which will take me a while, going by my experience with the dory.

 

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I glued in a replacement mast step after breaking the supplied 2 piece stacked assembly. The bottom piece was described as having no hole, to serve as a stop for the mast, but both of the kit's pieces had holes. Since the wood grain ran in the short dimension (oddly), the assembled part was very weak in the area of the holes. I made a single-piece step from scrap, with the grain running in the long dimension. I blew it and put the hole through, but I can deal with that later. Update 3-19: Don't deal with this later. Put in your stop before gluing the step down!!

 

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I had to remind myself to breathe as I made the chain plate slots in the inwales. Using the recommended drill size, I could not get the sawblade through the inwale. I drilled a line of holes along the length of the slot and began cutting and chiseling  with an Exacto blade. When I had broken through, I then used the sawblade to neaten and square the slots. So glad I did not create a mess.

 

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Shoot, I blame myself as I have the parts on hand- just read on another log for this model that the 2" scale lengths for the chain plate slot per the printed instructions is wrong as the plates are 1" wide. And so they are. Now I have to decide whether to add filler on the top of my pristine inwales, or just live with it.

 

Edited by bobandlucy
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Looks really good, Bob!  Anxious to see the painted boat.  Been away from mine for about a week, waiting on some replacement supplies from MS.  But, getting back to my sail lacing work this evening.

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I have painted the interior. I put a lot of effort into painting the area that is essentially hidden by the floorboards, but could not help but try and make it perfect. The instructions are to do the exterior next, but I needed a break from painting, and decided that there was no reason I couldn't install the floorboards. I left them unfinished per the instructions. I should have centered each array between the thwart frames, but did not, and am left with exposed cleats at each end of each run of boards. I feel that this will be less noticeable when the thwarts and stern sheet are in place. I am thinking I'd like a third color element in the interior on the thwarts and stern sheet and may just use a light red oak stain as I did on the Dory.

 

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Edited by bobandlucy
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Interior paint work looks very nice, Bob!  I learned on my Pram (as I'm sure you did on your Dory), keep that paint handy, as you will now continue to find little spots that you missed or just don't look quite right.  I continued to "touch up" practically for the remainder of the build!  But it looks very nice!  And you will find that the seat installations will help hide some of those underneath concerns.  Enjoy!

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Posted (edited)
8 minutes ago, GGibson said:

Interior paint work looks very nice, Bob!  I learned on my Pram (as I'm sure you did on your Dory), keep that paint handy, as you will now continue to find little spots that you missed or just don't look quite right.  I continued to "touch up" practically for the remainder of the build!  But it looks very nice!  And you will find that the seat installations will help hide some of those underneath concerns.  Enjoy!

Thanks, Gregg. Yeah, it's funny how a photo will reveal flaws unseen with the eye. . .

Edited by bobandlucy
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Posted (edited)

Painted the outside of the hull. 8 coats! The line where the two colors meet is not as crisp as I would have liked, but is not bad enough to obsess over.

 

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After obsessing over this for an hour (haha), I went back in to see if I could make this neater. BTW, I caused this problem by masking before painting the hull exterior, instead of taking the author's advice and simply dragging a flat brush at 90 degrees to the edge. I did improve it using this method, but think further work would be detrimental.

 

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Edited by bobandlucy
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Posted (edited)

Thanks, Gregg

 

I thinned the paint a bit with water. It took 8 coats before becoming opaque all over. A little tiresome, but I do like it when each coat is progressively smoother and easier to apply. 

 

I used Minwax pre-stain conditioner and Red Oak stain, followed by Wipe-On Poly.

 

 

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Posted (edited)

It was a tough day in the hobby room (Sleepless night), but it started well. I put the recommended clear satin coat on the exterior. I am happy with the result:

 

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Then I assembled the tiller. Tough going there. I broke one of the pre-drilled holes in the tiller side pieces while trying to perform the riveting. I could not get the 1/16" hard brass rod to mushroom as described, the rod bent and caused the break. I think that I should have paid more attention to squaring the clipped ends of the rods, and it's also possible that my hammer was too light. I did a repair with CA glue. Then I forgot to drill the hole in the tiller extension piece, and had attempted to rivet it to the tiller arm, where I broke this hole as well. I saw pretty quick that I would not be able to drill the hole, and decided against doing so. During my CA repair, I accidentally glued the extension to the tiller. What a mess.

 

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I'm thinking of filing a groove and attaching the rod to the extension that way. I know the preferred method of display would be to show the extension slightly to one side of the tiller, but of course, can't do that now. . . BTW, the instructions call for the grooved slot in the transom to be filed with a 3/8" round file, which I purchased, but the laser lines show a much narrower slot.

 

Next I did the eyebolt and bow stay, no problems there, but gosh the piece of tubing to simulate a hex nut is tiny, and I kept losing it once cut. Heads up, the instructions to anneal the tubing come after this installation and seem to apply to subsequent steps, but you will need to soften the tube before cutting.

 

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I do understand that I should have filled the gap towards the rear of the sheer plank, I think I thought that the paint would fill them. Lesson learned, Fortunately, this won't be real visible in the finished, stand-mounted model.

 

Edited by bobandlucy
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