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Wood Laser Cutting


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I have a few vintage, wood kits that are not laser cut panels. The lines on the panels are very clear. Is there a reasonably priced wood laser cutting machine on the market, where one is able to place the panels in the machine and the laser simply traces cuts on the lines?  I don’t need all of the bells and whistles and it does not need to connect to a computer for CAD, etc. Just something simple. Thanks for any/all help. 

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Hi,

I have to give you some information about laser cutting machines - I could be wrong, and in many ways I hope I am and other members will correct any errors in my understanding of this subject.

'Laser cutters' are basically a speciaised form of printer. Instead of producing printed lines with ink on paper a laser beam is focused onto the material and 'vapourises' it. I have not come across one that isn't connected to a computer, or that doesn't need the components to be drawn up using some type of CAD software.

There are some relatively inexpensive packages out there I'm sure. My experience is based on many years teaching this type of technology to secondary age students. It is amazing just what can be produced, and I developed my own understanding by making the components for balsa R/C model aircraft - drawing and cutting the ribs for a bi-plane was very rewarding. I have also used it to make various jigs and fixtures to assist with my 'Victory' build.

Graham.

 

 

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I'm not sure what you would consider "reasonably priced" but I was just reading about the Snapmaker 2.0.  It's a 3 in 1 machine that does laser engraving/cutting, CNC milling, and 3d printing.  The laser head has a camera built in for scanning that can be used to do exactly what you're asking for.  Search for that and you might have just what you want.

Current Build:

HMS Winchelsea 1:48 (Group Project)

 

Completed Builds:

Virginia 1819 Artesania Latina - 1:41 

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, tomsimon said:

Is there a reasonably priced

Like Matt asked, " What is reasonable..

 

That Snapmaker comes in at $1250 for the base model and has a very low power laser, which would take multiple passes for the typical wood that comes in wood ship model kits.  A computer would also be needed to operate the machine.

You would also need to worry about a work area with a serious  extraction ventilation system

 

" Something  simple "  for what you want to do, doesn't sound like a realistic goal.

Luck is just another word for good preparation.

—MICHAEL ROSE

Current builds:    Rattlesnake (Scratch From MS Plans 

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

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I just bought flux beambox and im happy with that. its 50w co2 and cuts 6mm ply easily with one pass.

There are cheap chinese lasers on the market that need a lot of learning etc. with western ones you can basically start cutting in 30-60min after receiving  the laser.

To trace the lines you have to draw it in cad like program first.

my suggestion is to use maybe laser service provider and designer to cut that. They can scan it, redraw and then laser cut.

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The cheapest way to go is buy a scroll saw and start cutting.   Laser cutters dont work like describe.  You would need to scan each board into a computer program and trace every part using a program like Corel Draw.  Which is very expensive in its own right.   It would take you 100 times the hours to do that in comparison to just buying a good scroll saw.

 

Chuck

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27 minutes ago, tomsimon said:

I have a Dremel Stylo with a lot of bits. Do you think I can use that? 

It doesn't sound like like a good idea at all..

 

Chuck's suggestion of a scroll saw would be your best approach..

 

What sort of kit ( name ) are you talking about ?   Is there something special about it that rules out acquiring a new kit that doesn't require cutting out the major components?

Luck is just another word for good preparation.

—MICHAEL ROSE

Current builds:    Rattlesnake (Scratch From MS Plans 

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

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Sounds like a scroll saw is the way to go.  The next question would be which scroll saw is recommended?  Guidance appreciated.  The kits the scroll saw would be used on are a Billings: Golden Hind (480), Jylland (465) and Cutty (459), and Mantua Peregrine Galley, 

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From where I sit, a question... is the wood from the kit good?   If so, just cut outside the line a bit (not on the line) and then sand, file to shape.  If the wood is damaged, copy it using a copy machine or one of the printers that has a scan/copy function.   You may have to fiddle a bit with the setting to get the exact size you need.  Once printed, these can be put onto a new slab of wood using rubber cement.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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If it is your ambition to manufacture and sell ship model kits, buying a laser cutter might be something to consider.  For a one-off proposition, a laser cutter seems to me to be an extravagance - a really huge extravagance.  The computer portion is an immense time sink.

 

I am going to guess about your experience and skill level.  For what you wish to do,  You might consider treating yourself to a high quality but low tech and old school tool.

A fret saw -

 

59621043_knew5inch_.jpg.2c6730580e29fb542a97bd4fbf6c6263.jpg  Knew is expensive,  but the joy of using a well made precision tool is .... especially when a laser is the alternative.

 

Also a proper support surface -  the picture is for the general shape  - this is an easy enough DIY using a piece of 1/2" or 3/4" AA or Birch plywood.

 

886367143_fretsawtable.jpg.9d2b9cdecc1f2f9241c014b185622d49.jpg

 

If you do much of this, you will come to know if you need an electric scroll saw or a 1/8" blade on a benchtop bandsaw.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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57 minutes ago, tomsimon said:

I watched videos on this scroll saw, wen 3921, is it a good one? seems to be stable..guidance appreciated

 

That looks great for entry level for the type of project you have described..

Luck is just another word for good preparation.

—MICHAEL ROSE

Current builds:    Rattlesnake (Scratch From MS Plans 

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

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On 2/8/2021 at 3:37 PM, tomsimon said:

Sounds like a scroll saw is the way to go.  The next question would be which scroll saw is recommended?  Guidance appreciated.  The kits the scroll saw would be used on are a Billings: Golden Hind (480), Jylland (465) and Cutty (459), and Mantua Peregrine Galley, 

You should start here and then consider your options: 

 

As with any tool, you get what you pay for, generally speaking. A good, top of the line scroll saw will hold much of its value on the resale market if and when you decide to unload it. The run of the mill cheapos are a dime a dozen on the "flea market" web sites. The quality of a scroll saw is determined by its amount of vibration. The less, the better. The "double parallel arm scroll saws," are the best, due to their "double parallel arms." These are the top end options by Hegner, Sakura, Excalibur, and so on. (Brands you've never heard of probably because they are specialty items.) Reviewers of the lower end scroll saws give high marks to the Delta scroll saws.

 

Here's a 21" Sakura with stand for sale on eBay right now for $345.00 or "Best Offer." https://www.ebay.com/itm/113782374163?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=113782374163&targetid=1068323853510&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9032112&poi=&campaignid=11612431611&mkgroupid=120003497904&rlsatarget=pla-1068323853510&abcId=9300456&merchantid=6296724&gclid=Cj0KCQiAyJOBBhDCARIsAJG2h5dY_w4irzmnwSEWlnSwniDYB2IZ18AEQRrSB9mVCv4zUlfjTpAsrIIaAlGSEALw_wcB

 

If I was in the market for one myself, I'd be all over it like white on rice for that price. (This Sakura new is $800.00. A 22" Hegner runs $2,000.00 new. Both without a stand.) "Free local pickup," which makes you wonder why that being "free" is any big deal. :D I came across this when I was looking for a picture of a top end scroll saw and noticed the very reasonable price. It's located in South San Francisco, so you could shoot up I-5 and pick it up yourself! (Okay, it's a five or six hour drive one way. Some of us do that on a fairly regular basis and even shipping shouldn't require taking out a second mortgage. :D

 

 

 

Manufacturer's website: http://www.pswood.com/scroll-saws/ (They changed their name to PSWood Machines. They are made in the USA, but the original "Sakura" brand name sounded too Asian, I suspect. :D)

 

Image 1 - Sakura-Scrollmate-21-039-039-MODEL-07009-LOWERED-PRICE

 

Edited by Bob Cleek
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