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Saint Philippe 1693 by CRI-CRI - scale 1/72 - French warship from Lemineur monograph


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From what I can see in these photos, it looks as though you will have some significant fairing to do between frames 2 and 4.  Balsa fillers, throughout, would make the fairing process easier to gauge, as you go.  It also will make a realistic plank shift more easy to achieve, as you will not be dependent on landing on bulkheads.  The only other way to land a joint between bulkheads, is to back the joint with glue tabs, and even then you might end up with raised peaks at each joint.  That seems very tedious to me.  Just a thought.

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Looking good Cri Cri!!!    Will there be a wing transom to hold the stern timbers  or do you plan to glue them to the bulkhead?  I use the wing transom, but the added strength of gluing to the aft most bulkhead as well, like you are showing, seems like a very good idea.    

What is the moulded dimension of the frames at the bulwarks?  The reason I ask is that they seem to be quite thick.   I would think they would be in the range of 3 to 4 inches,  where the top timbers would be if were framed versus POB.    At a scale of 1:72, these look to be about 24 inches moulded so the cap rail would be extremely wide.  

I am looking forward to your next posts and photos.

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Thanks Allan,

 

I cut bulwarks a little more thick provisory, and adjust them by sanding after planking

 

At scale 1/72, the high bulwarks are three mm thick, and I cut them provisory around six mm

 

Of course, where the bulwarks are hidden, this finition can be omitted

 

Regards,

 

Christian

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Hi Christian,

Three mm moulded is about 8.5 inches at your scale which is about double what I am used to seeing.  With this dimension plus the thickness of the planking inboard and outboard, the cap rail would be about 14 inches wide or more .  Is this correct for your St. Philippe?   I like the heaviness of these top timbers from a modeling stand point as they can easily break when at scale (I speak from experience and  many curse words have ensued when it happens) but it may not look right.  I am not saying it is wrong, but it is just something different than what I have seen for British ships, the top timbers running from about 2.5" (<1mm at 1:72)  to 5" (1.76mm at 1:72) moulded dimension in the late 17th century depending on the rate.   

 

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Hi Allan,

 

Verifying into mono at scale 1/72 : on upper quarter-deck, which shows the thiner builkhead of ship :

 

-  Bulkhead = 3 mm

-  Cap rail    =  6 mm

 

These values are indicated before sanding of cap rail (in fact, after sanding, the edges of the cap-rail are slightly softened)

 

It may probably look like a 5 mm cap-rail

 

Then, no problem for me   😋

 

Regards,

 

Christian

 

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Forgive me, please, but I have to back Allan on this one.  I am not accustomed to metric scale.  Fortunately, though, we have the technology.

 

My copy of the monograph is 1/48 - big enough to sail away in:

 

F272B527-69F6-4C68-8446-269916D901F5.thumb.jpeg.2278638d93806b79f8b05277a482685b.jpeg

 

The timberheads before the break between the quarter and poop sheer steps measure 10/64”, imperial.

 

B2872FF0-1B5E-4B9B-A2E1-F6982D04819E.thumb.jpeg.62566aec4af453eb998e9ea397135902.jpeg

 

1D6B3896-E1F4-4B1A-A33C-00E45E5FBA7C.thumb.png.955b720483aa3bb2bdbbd2506a1c5f86.png

 

So, at 1/48”, the timberheads (inside the planking) would measure a hair under 4MM.

 

At your scale of 1/72, this dimension should be significantly smaller, still.  I agree with Allan that now is the time to thin these, before finally glueing them in.

 

Personally, I would leave them just a little heavy to allow for fairing, after they are glued-in. 

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Hello boys,

 

Mono at scale  1/48, pl, 19 (I've also this monograph and I learned reading when I was a five years old pupil  😋:

 

- Bulkhead    = 5 mm

 

- Cap rail       = 8 mm 

 

At scale  1/72  :

 

-- Bulkhead  = (5/72)*48 = 3 mm

 

- Cap rail      = (8/72)*48 = 6 mm

 

Regards,

 

Christian

 

PS = I know the SR by Neko, it's unnecessary to show me this beautiful model, I am just a poor lonesome cow-boy, not an artist...  🤢

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I am sorry, Christian, that you seem to take this commentary as a personal attack.  I hope you will understand that that is far from the spirit that is intended.

 

I only offer observations and criticism when I believe the builder is capable of doing something with that information.  I followed your build, in the first place, because I believe you can pull it off, so to speak.  You are making a nice job of it, so far.

 

The objective of my commentary is solely to help you avoid creating a circumstance, early, that is difficult or impossible to remedy later.

 

Of course, I respect your wish to work privately and wish you the best of luck!

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