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Wasa by Bill97 - FINISHED - Airfix - 1/144


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Michael I plan to wait until near the end of my build to put the hatch doors on. I know my luck and sometimes clumsy hand movements I would probably knock 10-15 of those little guys off during rigging. So I am going to wait till rigging is done to put in the hatch doors. So maybe by then you may show me your idea 

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Here ya go Bill, I used 2mm eye bolts with reduced dia, wire thickness is 0.36mm and #60 bobbin thread on the smallest gun port lid, actually looks pretty good and not too far out of scale, I have to tell you I wouldn't want to work with any smaller scale then this. Hope this helps.

 

Michael D.

 

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Thanks Michael. That looks pretty good. How did it work out on the hinge side? Does the wire go all the way through?  I guess you will drill holes in the hull above the hatches for the other end of the thread?

 

I am really glad you have this kit at the same time. Enjoy discussing aspects of it with you. Very few Airfix Wasa builds on MSW. Hope I am not drawing you away from your other build to much. 
I got all the upper deck cannons rigged with the repurposed blocks. They look OK. 

Looking ahead to the next step in the instructions I came across my next head scratcher. Step 6 shows attaching the deadeye chain plate pieces #171-175. I had not yet decided if I was going to use the included molded deadeye chain plate pieces for attaching the shrouds or cut them off and use wooden deadeyes. This kit does require making your own shrouds and ratlines but includes the premolded deadeye configurations. I thought about just painting these pieces to look more realistic but it appears as if the idea is to run the end of a shroud through a small hole in the center of the top fake deadeye. I originally thought there would be a piece that would glue to the back of the top fake deadeye creating a grove that the shroud would wrap around and be seized, but there is not. So if we use these the shroud line will pass through the front or back and out the other side and then be seized. Not sure if this will be obvious once finished. If I decide to discard the fake deadeyes and use wooden ones there is a problem with the units for the upper mast shrouds. The plastic fake ones are so extremely small (parts #194-196, 206-209, and 217-218). Not sure deadeyes this small can be found. 

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You're welcome Bill, There's 2 separate ropes, I just illustrated the inside rope that would be lead through the gun port. I do not like those deadeyes, but if you want to use them it should not be hard to make your own back piece to create that groove. The smallest deadeyes I've found are 2.5mm and might look ok.

Michael D.

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Good day,

Gents,

 I very doubt ness-ry sizes coud be found in the market...

size of the deaeyes roughply calculated as 1/2 of relevant spar(mast,top mast, etc) ...if I not mistaken how to calculate this size,

than 2.5 mm consider became still too big for top/topgallant or not?

May be there is a way to imitate deadeye proper rigging - by making that groove that You mentioned?

Or made self made deadeyes? 

BRGDS!

Kirill

 

 

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Thanks Michael and Kirill4. I will just fabricate a small piece to add to the top deadeye to make it look like the old YoYo toy, patch the little center hole that is already there, and paint them a little more realistic. They are somewhat fragile and a few of the little straight pieces that represent the chains are missing or were blended into the flack and lost during trimming. Will need to add those as well. May cut them all off and just add actual very small chain. 
Michael I am still fascinated by your cannon hatch door ropes. So what do you think you will do on the outside?  Will it be similar with a second eye bolt on the other side?

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Hi Bill,

Yes it will be similar and I'll do a quick mock up for you of that as well, plus it gives me a chance to see how it actually looks on the model and make any necessary adjustments to suit the eye, at this scale one could eliminate the ring and just use the eye bolt and look good.

 

Michael D.

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Good day, 
Dear friends,
 For imitation ring bolt You could use acrylic relief maker - jast add a small drop of this maker to the place where wire @ring@(actually made wire ring bolt)  penetrates surface...  than You will have ring outside and imitation head of ring bolt where @ring@ touches surface... there is tric, when this drop became hard a little bit, use some flat end stick to flatten this drop of relief maker if it looks too sharp...  recenly in my build I shown use of this staff for imitation cannon port lid hinges imitation...
for making smaller ring bolt need to use some thin wire ,needle of necessary diameter and small long nose plier ,small bench wise , and clip nail cutter and brass\metall blackining  liquid ....
than You will never be  depend on from any eye bolt supplier anymore :)))

imitation ring bolt.jpg

Edited by kirill4
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Thank You very much Bill97 for kind remarks :)

I saw You are looking for some desisions how to settle this question, thats why I thought to share my expirience how it could be done for plastic model

 

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In the category “Don’t throw away left over parts” I was able to come up with a solution for my shroud deadeyes. I had some leftover deadeye molded pieces from a similar scale ship I previously built. I simply cut off the top deadeyes, sanded them a little, and then glued them to the back of the top deadeyes that are part of the Wasa kit. This then provides the needed little grove to wrap the shroud around and then do the seizing. 

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Looking ahead to shrouds, standing and running rigging I am aware that this kit came with only white thread. There is a suggestion to soak the white thread in tea to obtain desired color. I am going to purchase thread on line in various sizes instead. I have a light tan color thread for the running rigging but need thread for the standing rigging. I automatically looked for black like I have used on all my other builds.  I found black but also found one called coke brown. That got me wondering if Airfix suggested soaking in tea is a coke brown more accurate than black for standing rigging?  I ordered various sizes of the black and will get it soon but now wonder if I should have gone with the brown?

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Good day,

I'm Sure brown color for standing rigging will be more suitable...

In reality , in this period it was tarred as I know ... it gives specific color to the hemp, not realy brown ... but sure it shouldn't be black color! :)

Did You check here ?

https://warshipvasa.freeforums.net/board/4/technical

spend some time to read ... there are many questions regarding rigging discussed and explained by professional historic Fred Hocker

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I like your fix for the deadeye's Bill. Here's the mock up of the gun port ropes, I used .032 awg wire and #60 bobbin thread and looks much better to scale.

 

Michael D.

 

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In scales this small, it has been suggested to me to seize your lanyards directly to a single eyelet secured to the lid - rather than an additional ring attached to your lid eyelet.

 

On my project, I will display the lids in a somewhat unrealistic way - as pulled up against the wales - because I want the lid ornaments to be fully visible.

 

In this way, I only need to represent the single, interior, closing lanyard. 

We are all works in progress, all of the time.

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Agreed, just wanted to illustrate it is possible to rig them complete at this scale if one wanted to do so, reality is most would not. Mine will be displayed with closed, fully and partially open lids.

Michael D.

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That looks really good Michael. Looks like you drilled a small hole above the lid to insert the rope and you will need to do that for all 50 hatches. Hubac if you display your doors fully open up against the wales you will not need the holes correct? Interestingly I looked back at my Revell 1/96 USS Constitution, I built a while back. For it’s cannon hatches it has a hole drilled in the bottom of the door. A rope is inserted in the hole and a knot tied on the inside. Then the other end is run through a hole in the hull. Giving the appearance that the rope was pulled to open the hatch and then gravity was simply used to close the hatch. This was my original thought as to how I would do the hatches. But I must admit the eye bolts look good. 
Michael I had not paid attention to this before today but I noticed there are absolutely no blocks included with the kit for rigging. The very limited rigging instructions that came with the kit don’t reference blocks or show them in the diagrams, but surly they used them in that era, didn’t they?

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Bill you could very well rig the lids like that and be perfectly acceptable or rig one eye bolt. Blocks that small would almost be impossible to mold on a sprue would be my guess, I will be using these from bluejacket ship crafters in 3/32, 1/8, 3/16 and maybe 7/32, the single 3/32 blocks only measure 0.0485" wide. For the lower hearts I will use the 1/8 dia ones and fabricate the topmast ones.

For the rigging that link Kirill posted is excellent along with the book by R.C Anderson the rigging of Ships in the days of spritsail topmast 100-1720.

 

Michael D.

 

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Thanks again Michael. This smaller scale does present it’s challenges but I think that increases the rewards of accomplishment. I really enjoy the community of builders MSW offers. Being able to discuss modeling ideas is very helpful especially when working on the same model! Going to look through my supply of blocks to see if I have what I need. Kind of wish you were ahead of me on the Wasa instead of the other way around. Hope I am not pulling you away from the ship you are working on to evaluate the issues I discover on the Wasa. Will definitely study the rigging plan Kirill4 recommended. 
 

Now this is going to freak all you guys!  As I mentioned a few posts back I have been debating rope color for the standing rigging. Even though it may not be completely authentic, and maybe even a little visually risky, I decided to rig my Wasa with coke brown rope!! I had what I needed in the sizes necessary. 

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My lid lanyards tie off onto an eyebolt on the top of the dummy carriage.  The trick will be shortening the lanyard line enough that it doesn’t look floppy around the barrel.  I left myself plenty of excess line to figure it out.

Edited by Hubac's Historian

We are all works in progress, all of the time.

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Good day,

Regarding ropes color - in general, I think , this brown color will be more suitable for this period than black color....

With pure fabric sewing thread there is a weak point , they are too loosen in structure...and in the small scale model they will not looks nice at all...

I ve made this mistake as well on my model :( when desided to use orginal sewing thread just strait from the drum( painted them only)

Now I know that it would be better to treat them a little bit before paint and use, or even to make your own rope...

Somewhere in the middle of my building I found the way how to improve appearance of the sewing thread a little bit

You need to secure firmly one end of the piece of thread ,1 mtr long approx, somewhere... strait the line keeping it in hand...and start twisting it by fingers as much as possible continue keeping it strait...

When thread structure became much more tight, you need start slowly  pulling it with max resonable force just sufficient don't destroy it ,

you will feel limit, when need to stop pulling...and keep it in this loaded state for a few sec...and than slowly release it.

When it is loaded, I apply paint / stain as well, to make it colored in desired color.

in result , your sewing thread became more tight in structure, more looking like real rope...

it will be of couse less quality compare to rope machine made ropes, but better than ordinary sewing thread ...

All this concerning sintetic only, not cotton threads.

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Completed the lower shrouds for the main mast. This was my first attempt at seizing the shrouds where they wrap around the mast head. Started out kind of so so but getting a little better with each one I do. Starting to getting the hang of it. I am using .45 mm line for the shroud and seizing it with .35 mm.  Had to modify the “crows nest” so I could wrap the shroud pairs around the mast head. The kit was not designed for this so there were not the needed openings in the bottom. I need to get better at having the seized section of the shrouds end at a uniform point crows nest. The ones I have done so far for the foremast (not shown) are much more uniform. 

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Good day Bill,

Mmmm...right now,

by my opinion,

it doesn't look accurate and scaled...

for seizing You could try Gutermann threads seria Scala No 240 or 360 even better,or similar kind of threads... this is ideal for imitation seizing and serving...using this threads your rope work will garanty looks more accurate!

i used portable drill for imitation serving rope...just rotate it by hand...other side of the thread  was temporary weighted ...left hand I used for feeding scala 360 for serving while main thread was rotating by right hand

when serving was completed i clued end of scala and painted served rope at once

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Edited by kirill4
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